BerenElendil

I have the RCA wires plugged in the right way 'round, I'm pretty sure. I have them plugged into the CD ports, and have the amp set to CD. Again, I'm planning to go to the store tomorrow to pick up a cheap DAC and test if the issue is there. If there's something more high-level (power balancing?) or fundamental (maybe my stuff is just too old?), let me know.

Got an SMSL SU-1 for Christmas, connected it by optical to our Samsung CU7000 55 TV, into an NAD C 350 amp, then to a pair of passive bookshelf monitors. I changed the RCA inputs from the DAC to different channels on the back of the amp (CD, AUX, VIDEO, etc.) and no sound is coming out of the monitors. I plugged a pair of headphones into the amp, and only the treble frequencies transmit. I'm worried that the DAC itself might be the issue, since -- as I was showing off the presents -- the package slipped from my fingers and dropped onto the tile floor in our house. I'll be searching for a different DAC to test if that is the issue, until then I'm hoping someone on here can provide some advice to help the situation.

CPU: 5950X GPU: EVGA 3090 Ti FTW3 (RIP EVGA graphics division) RAM: CL16 3600 MHz G.Skill Trident V (16×2 GB) MOBO: ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Impact (Mini-ITX with DIMM.2 riser card) SSD: 2×1TB M.2 - RAID 0 Before I flashed the BIOS for the motherboard, I was regularly getting an error code 07 -- an issue with USB connections. I figured my BIOS hadn't been updated in a while since I used a RAID 0 array and didn't want to risk losing my precious data, so I backed up my files during the blue-moon chance that I had when the computer properly booted, then powered it off and flashed the BIOS (cleared CMOS beforehand too). I then started to get two different error codes -- 42, an issue related to RAM, and 97, an issue related to a PCIe lane conflict between the M.2 SSDs and the GPU. Just now, I'm also getting a third error code -- B2, related to CSM boot and legacy boot support (I'm assuming this is linked to the RAID 0 array getting gummed up with a BIOS flash, as I feared). All of these issues, even those related to the RAID array (lesson learned, hardware RAID is better than software or firmware RAID), can all be traced back to the motherboard itself. I'm wanting to make sure I've done my due diligence, and that I've done all I can -- is it time for me to get a new motherboard?

I've got some work I need to finish on the computer that I use for my coursework (studying architecture), but the graphics card in my personal machine is currently away for an RMA, and the card from my work machine is currently in my personal machine. I've ordered an external enclosure for the boot M.2 in my work machine as well, so I was wondering, would I be able to use that drive to boot? Failing that, would I be able to use the software on it like normal to finish my work?

I'm going through a lot of changes as I head into my next year of university, and I'm starting to consider a lot of possibilities I haven't before, one such being the idea that I might not need a personal PC tower -- at least, not right now. However, I do have two 1TB NVMe SSDs in my machine right now, with some programs and files that I'd like to keep around. Unfortunately, these drives are set in RAID 1, and I don't know if I'd be able to access all, some, or any of my information off of just one drive or the other. If I were to install one drive in one of those external NVMe enclosures and connect it to my laptop, would I be able to access the data as normal, or does the file structure in RAID prevent that from being an option? In other words, does RAID 1 tend to fill up one drive or another first and then move on to the second, or does it split up the file information across both drives?

It does seem to be an issue with the graphics card... just bought a $400 replacement to troubleshoot, booted right up. Could be at least three things with my 3090... damn.

I've just recently put my computer back together after some routine maintenance -- Gigabyte RTX 3090 Waterforce w/Waterblock, Ryzen 5950X -- and the computer displays as normal in the BIOS, but shows a "No Signal" message upon fully booting. I'm worried that I may have bricked my card (water cooling... not sure if this is enough to swear off it for life, we'll have to see), but I have also heard that it might be a driver issue. Is there a way to update graphics drivers from a USB through the BIOS? I've also seen some advice saying to boot into Safe Mode, but the guides I've seen have been related to booting in Safe Mode from Windows. How do I boot into Safe Mode from POST?

Okay, so: My graphics card (a Gigabyte 3090 Extreme Waterforce with the waterblock) has been having some temperature issues as of late. I tax the GPU for too long, the temperature on the hottest part of the die immediately shoots up to 105 C without full utilization, and my monitor goes black -- everything is still plugged in, everything is nominally functional, but the screen no longer displays any image. This is usually fixed by a hard reset, but that's not the point. I'm looking to fix this issue as soon as possible, which for me is going to be some time in early June. I've been looking into multiple resources, and they all say that the thickness of the thermal pads over the VRMs on the chip is 1mm thick, and the pads over the RAM is 2mm thick. First off -- is that true? I'd hate to be in the same place I am right now. More to the matter at hand, though, I want to make sure that my card stays cool for a good while -- don't want to go through all this brouhaha again. So -- what would be the best thermal pad for me to buy? Is there a difference between thermal pads with high W/mk values versus those with lower values? Should I go for pads with the highest value, or is it not that simple? What about thermal pastes? I'm looking at Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut at the moment -- is there something better I could or should get for my GPU die? Also, I've heard a lot about the CoolMyGPU copper shims -- if anyone has experience using those, what is it like? Do they live up to the hype?

Then that (kind of) leads back to my earlier question -- should I go for the CoolMyGPU copper shims or thermal pads? What sort of thermal paste should I use, or should I try liquid metal since it's an exposed die?

...Since I just tried it again, I suppose I should elaborate on what happens to cause the issue I've been facing -- my GPU temp will immediately jump up to a temperature in excess of 100C, and one of two things happens, both ending with the same result. If I ignore it and keep going, my screen will turn black and my keyboard and mouse will become unresponsive, requiring a manual shutdown. If I exit out of the program that's causing the spike, all the windows on my screen and access to my start menu to shut down normally begins to weaken, but my monitor stays active and my keyboard and mouse seem to still be functional to some degree -- regardless, it still requires a manual shutdown. I'm worried that attempting to RMA the card will only get it sent back, since a representative from Gigabyte said "changing the thermal pads voids the warranty" or something like that -- is that just a scare tactic? If I want to replace the card and get a new one, what options are available to me? Should I just suck it up and start saving up cash, relegating a $2000+ graphics card to a tech junkyard? What should I do? EDIT: The whole "voids the warranty" thing might have been for opening up the waterblock for maintenance, which seems equally as frustrating to me. The parts need regular cleaning and maintenance to last a while... I don't know.

Well, I seem to have something figured out -- a combination of fluid flow and running fans at full tilt has my GPU temp at a low I've not seen in a while -- 30C! However, I know as well as anyone this isn't feasible in the long term, so I ask again -- what solutions could or should I use to cool my GPU? I've seen good things about the CoolMyGPU copper shims, maybe I could give those a shot? Should I stick with thermal paste, or maybe try springing for liquid metal? What thickness of thermal pad should I use for my particular model of graphics card?

CPU temps seem to be hanging right around 50C -- that's been my regular experience since I got a 5950X with this loop -- I think I'm gonna try swapping out the fan header to Molex adapter for a normal Molex cable. I'll probably just be careful over the next month or two, and run my computer without pushing it too hard, until I get home from university and can devote myself to draining my loop and doing that sort of thing.

Okay then, maybe that's part of the problem -- I'd cut out the Molex cable in the belief that it would reduce the cable clutter in my system. If part of the issue is power delivery and thus lower fluid flow (which, as I'm looking at it, very well could be) I'll get right on changing that.

That's the thought I've been having -- I'm wanting to redo the paste and pads on my graphics card this summer (since I'm currently incredibly busy with my coursework), I've also tried to figure out how to work my EK DDC pump. Unfortunately, it splits its power draw between a normal fan header and a male Molex connector, I don't know if that's part of the problem. I did buy a Molex to fan header adapter, if that's part of the problem I'll take care of it right away.

Probably? I don't know -- I don't have a flow sensor anywhere in my rig, I tried to keep the flow order proper. I guess it'd be a good idea to know if I did something wrong. I could shift the pump down lower, in case that's the source of the issue I'm facing. I have a pretty decent fan curve, I've got a 5950X and two 360mm radiators -- I've also been considering slim fans to support the radiator in front (I can place normal fans on the radiator in the back), other than that I'm not exactly sure what the issue might be. I might have clogged up my old radiators? I tried washing them out pretty thoroughly the last time I took everything apart... I'm rambling now.

It's a touch messy, but I love it all the same.

I've been recently running into issues with my Gigabyte RTX 3090 WATERFORCE card -- the Hotspot measurement (on HWMonitor) will ramp up to 103+°C, and unless I exit out of the program that caused the temperature increase, my monitors shut off, my keyboard and mouse become unresponsive, and I have no option but to force shutdown my computer. I've been looking into potential solutions for cooling my GPU, and I was hoping to get some advice -- how thick are the thermal pads I'd need to properly cool the card? I've been looking into getting some of those CoolMyGPU copper plates and some liquid metal, is that a good idea?

...Additional details are probably in order here: It's an InWin D-Frame Mini with the PSU cage removed and a custom fab backplate installed, I have everything mounted fairly vertically, as might be apparent from the image. ...Upon further inspection, there seems to be a second air bubble, in fact. Help would be greatly appreciated!!

Good evening, I've nearly got my water-cooled loop set up, just one roadblock I'm facing now: how do I get rid of an air pocket like this one in a setup like mine? Before you ask, it's an RTX 3090, manufacturer-made waterblock, one that I peeled the stickers off of so I could clean out the inside (left all the parts to sit for a month and a half). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey there LTT forum, As I prepare to put my custom liquid cooled computer back together, I've realized that I'll need to clean out the blocks and radiators, since I've left them to sit at home for about a month now. I've looked up some advice on cleaning out waterblocks -- any extra advice will always help, of course -- but my main concern has to do with the waterblock on my graphics card. What thickness (or thicknesses) of thermal pad will I need to purchase to cover everything: the RAM, the MOSFETs, everything? On a related note, since the main GPU chip is exposed (unlike with your typical CPU), would I benefit from getting some liquid metal coolant on there instead?

I'm not sure what the difference is -- is there one? It just looks like a big bubble of air to me, partially because I don't know if there's a distinction to be made. Here's a picture of what stage I'm at now.

Update 2: managed to fill up the loop more, I now face the perplexing issue of a bubble in the run from the pump to the first radiator that changes size every time I switch the machine on and off. Sometimes it vanishes altogether. What am I meant to do from here?

Update: I managed to get the second air bubble through the tube between the first and second radiators, and into the tube between the radiator and the graphics card. My issue still stands, though.

I'm running my water cooling system from the pump, through two radiators, into my graphics card and then into the CPU. Unfortunately, due to the way I constructed the loop, I have two large air bubbles in the tube from my pump to my radiator, and one between my two radiators. What should I do about them? I've tried tipping my system back and forth, I ran the pump intermittently, I ran it constantly for a couple of hours, the bubbles still remain through it all. Should I just add more coolant, is that part of the issue? Below is an image of the loop.

Good to know, thanks. For now I just need to get this working, I have some classwork I need to get done.