fissilecore

I've narrowed down my choices to 4 headphones: HyperX Cloud Flight, SteelSeries Arctis 1, Corsair Gaming HS70 and Razer Barracuda X. Any feedback for any of these models would be appreciated. Is there a clear winner or a better option in that price range?

I'm looking for the way to connect my PC to a TV without any cables. What's the most latency free option? What's the cheapest one?

I found out that's because of voltage. PBO can easily push it to 1.4V or even more until it hits a thermal barrier. For the record you need a really good cooling to handle 1.4V for all cores load. I wouldn't put over 1.3V on stock Wraith Prism.

I mostly ignored all overclocking until there was a need for undervolting on my 2700X. So at stock it runs terribly: hot, barely hits 4.1 on idle and 3.9 on stress tests. With PBO enabled and -0.05V core offset there's 4.15-4.2 on idle, 4.1-4.15 while playing games and 4.0 on stress tests but it runs hotter than I'd like. So to gain more control of temperatures I've decided to manually set multiplier and voltage. But here's a problem - 4.0 it reaches only at 1.3V and cannot keep stable 4.1 even at 1.45V (I really would have liked 4.0@1.25V and 4.1@1.35V at least). I don't want to mess with BCLK because have M.2 SSD installed. Is it just bad silicon or there's something I can do?

TCP Global Parameters ---------------------------------------------- Receive-Side Scaling State : enabled Receive Window Auto-Tuning Level : normal Add-On Congestion Control Provider : default ECN Capability : disabled RFC 1323 Timestamps : disabled Initial RTO : 1000 Receive Segment Coalescing State : enabled Non Sack Rtt Resiliency : disabled Max SYN Retransmissions : 4 Fast Open : enabled Fast Open Fallback : enabled HyStart : enabled Proportional Rate Reduction : enabled Pacing Profile : off After doing some more searching I stumbled upon an article that says direct connection (without router) can only utilize 2.4Ghz and you need a router to connect via 5Ghz (probably to offload some data through it). I don't mind upgrading my router but will it definitely improve connection and eliminate lags?

For TV it's LG 42LB650V (pretty sure it supports 802.11n standard), WiFi module is AX210. I was thinking of upgrading my router to 5Ghz but isn't Miracast connects both devices directly?

I often cast movies from my laptop to a TV but it introduces stuttering and artifacts. So I wonder what's the limiting factor: the standard itself, 2.4 Ghz bandwidth or TV Wi-Fi module? If both the laptop and TV support 5 Ghz can I somehow force them to connect only through it?

I have a simple GEPON-ONU terminal for optical network that connects to router via RJ-45. To avoid all these cables I've decided to buy one with built-in WiFi. There are a few options with GPON, EPON and XPON standards as well as ONT variants. Which are compatible with my equipment?

Hi there. After finishing all the games I wanted I've decided to put my GPU to good use and started mining. Turns out you can make decent profits and recoup GPU cost in 3 months more or less. So I've been thinking about buying 6-8 more for a little farm. With astonishing local prices (900$ for 1660S), even high shipping costs overseas seem reasonable. I know it's almost impossible to buy a card at MSRP nowadays. Can you at least do it with 100$, 200$ or even 100% markup (looking for midrange: 1660Ti, 1660S, 2060, 3060Ti or similar)?

Default SOC voltage should be at least 1v and it's recommended to set it to 1.05-1.1v for more stable RAM overclock. Your RAM voltage is also too low, for 3200Mhz default should be 1.35v but it may actually be caused by SOC. If you know what you're doing, you can try setting both manually.

Why is your SOC voltage so low?

Don't know if this would help but I had the same problem after updating Windows to the newest version. Some cumulative updates down the line eventually fixed that.

With AGESA 1.0.0.6 on B450 board I could comfortably run my 2700X at -0.1 offset but after upgrading to AGESA 1.2.0.0 I get constant BSODs. Is it BIOS or maybe chip degradation?

The question's in the title. With the RTX 3050 on the horizon perhaps it's better to load out now, when there's demand and buy a card with 30-50% more performance for the same price?

Hi guys. Not so long ago I’ve built my first PC (used only laptops before) but there are stuff I couldn’t find answers to. It’s kind of a long list but I would appreciate any help. There are a lot of offerings for the RAM with odd clock speeds. What’s the reason behind the 3466 MHz and the similar? Why not the round numbers only like 3400 MHz? Performance increase is quite insignificant for it to make sense. Micron E-Die really doesn’t like tight tRCDRD timings. How important this value in broad terms? How it compares to similarly clocked Samsung B-Die for example 16-16-16-16-36 to 16-16-18-16-36? There’s a chart for Zen 2 showing that max RAM speed that will run with Infinity Fabric at 1:1 ratio is 3733 Mhz. Is it the same for Zen 1 and Zen+ or lower? I’ve recently noticed that my CPU temps have weird constant spikes – 40°C when idle then after 10-20 seconds goes straight to 50°C, slowly returns to normal and the cycle repeats. Is it normal for it to fluctuate this much? My tray version of CPU had signs of use. Is it supposed to? Why does it take around 20 second for BIOS to load when restarting a PC but almost instantly when shutting down and then starting up? When overclocking GPU memory to the max Metro Exodus rarely but does suffer from minor visual artifacts (like red spots or flickering smoke) but it doesn’t affect other demanding games. What does that indicate and should I keep the overclock? Will buying a voltage stabilizer guarantee removing any coil whine? When driving sound through display output there’s noticeable degrade in audio quality with very quiet background noise and sometimes high-pitched whine that are not present if connecting directly to MB. Is it due to lack of screening and can it be fixed? AMD FreeSync eliminates tearing when FPS is lower than monitor refresh rates but FPS drops from say 80 to 50 are quite noticeable even without it. Does it mean that FreeSync is only useful when playing at constant FPS below monitor rated? Is it safe to assume that every monitor below 200$ will have at least some degree of clouding (for VA) or backlight glow (for IPS) or are there some exceptions? Many sources say that IPS has better color accuracy than VA but looking at the specifications even the cheapest VA have the same sRGB coverage. Is it only on paper or their statement is actually true? On my parent’s LCD TV backlight LEDs began burning out after 5 years. Does it happen to monitors too? Sometimes after closing any game, fans start constantly ramping up and down (by around 100 RPM, C-State and AMD Cool’n’Quiet disabled). The temperature source for my case fans is CPU so at least it could be somewhat improved with a different one but I don’t know what source I should set. CPU is the hottest so it works well when GPU is at 100%. What else scales well with GPU utilization? Is it true that all cheap PWM fans (less than 50$ with tower) have this low-pitched buzz/hum? There’s literally no extraneous noise from non-PWM case fans of the same brand even on higher RPMs. Why is it not possible for case RGB to show darker colors (like 0,100,0)? Is it because brightness can be either 0 or 255 or because medium is usually white or transparent?