PAPO1990

I'm using an ASUS AX11000, I'd rather not spend more on a second one right away, but when I eventually upgrade that, I'll mesh them together.

The thing is not ALL problems can be solved. outside interference is not entirely avoidable, and it all started when they installed a new power transformer on the pole across the street, no fixing that. I don't exactly want to go spending a bunch of money on more AP's either, and even if I DID then I'd want ethernet connections between them. I've done plenty of planning, 2.4Ghz covers the house pretty well from the single AP, but only for something like my laptop, the smaller antennae on things like phones make the coverage a lot less reliable for those devices. A dedicated hard wired connection is ALWAYS better than wireless. In my case, the cable TV/ cable internet wiring in my house is currently used for NOTHING, so MoCA would have it all to itself, and assuming no weirdness, WILL be better than WiFi OR powerline, and powerline is ALREADY better than WiFi upstairs. If you have the opportunity to plan out your whole house before you build it, and your surrounding environment THEN you can actually plan things out for the best possible WiFi, but I've got thick stone walls with no cavities I couldn't just plan to use a different building material. Always use wired whenever possible, because not only is it better for the devices that are hard wired (you also can't always plan on a device having good WiFi hardware in it) but it's better for everything that HAS to be on WiFi to have less devices using it.

Lucky you, I have the best WiFi I've ever had, but I'm in a big house, with THICC solid stone walls, and weird interference. Some parts of the house it's good, but WiFi is NEVER as reliable and consistent as ethernet can be. You just might need to upgrade to 2.5Gb Ethernet gear. WiFi is also shared, so the more WiFi devices you have, the slower ALL of them will be. Unfortunately I'm having a hard time finding MoCA adaptors in Australia.

fair, I kind of thought cordless phones would have been in a similar boat which is why that's the frequency range I was thinking about. Although even within the WiFi standards there are certain channels you aren't allowed to use in certain countries.

yeah, it's not only too much work, but too messy, but even with the cable concealers I have to get the cable to the room in the first place, and it's 2 story, so it's not as simple as going into the ceiling. Trust me we've looked at every angle already, even the kludgey way would be difficult and expensive. The thing is I'm already pretty close to making a single unit work, the ASUS AX-11000 is one BEEFY high powered unit. At this point if I could just convince all my neighbors to not use channel 1 that would probably be a low enough frequency to sort it with 2.4Ghz, but I like considering these things as a hypothetical, I find it interesting. Yeah not even worrying about much in the way of IoT devices here, Linus' recent video about his new house and Zwave using ~900Mhz already sold me on going that route if I ever dive into that, but it is also kind of what had me thinking about this again. Obviously anything at 900Mhz is too slow for non-IoT devices, but I'd thought 1.8Ghz might just cut it, I mean how many people have cordless phones anymore? I'm about ready to kill off mine and I'm pretty sure that's ~1.8Ghz

So demolish my house, and put Ethernet in it... seriously, it's 12" thick, solid stone walls, they block WiFi and any attempts at running Ethernet cables to most of the house (we have a few shambolic runs but other places are totally unfeasible). Also I was being Hyperbolic, I'm not actually going to knock down my house. So by flimsy the walls would just all have cavities, and the interior walls might just be gyprock (drywall) instead of more 12" thick solid stone Lastly I'd rather not deal with multi AP's I'm SOOOO close to having decent WiFi EVERYWHERE with a single ASUS AX-11000 as my AP, a slightly lower frequency band would give all the reach and obstacle penetration I need to handle those last few pockets of my house, and most of the time those devices don't need much bandwidth anyway, the most demanding thing would be watching YouTube on my phone.

I'd prefer reliable slow-ish speeds to spotty high speed that keeps dropping out. Obviously IoT devices don't need bandwidth OR low latency I was really just talking about mice and controllers. Power draw certainly IS a consideration, guess I'm just spoiled with my Logitech Powerplay Mouse Pad well netgear was selling an 802.11ad NightHawk WiFi router a few years back, that was 60Ghz. I never bought it though because I knew even if I got supported devices down the road I'd never get signal in my house. oooh, I hope it works out, and can give somewhere around 50-250Mb/s real world. If 802.11AX can do gigabit on 2.4Ghz, I don't think that's asking TOO much. In conclusion, I'm not TOTALLY crazy, just a little bit, and there's some practical limitations. Guess the next solution is demolishing my house and re-building it with flimsier walls

So this was just a crazy shower thought, but it keeps bugging me. Why does WiFi only use 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands (and yes 6Ghz for WiFi6E), I'm reasonably certain there's some unlicensed spectrum around 1.8-1.9Ghz that cordless phones use, why has no one exploited this band for WiFi? I like in a big house with THICK STONE walls, and WiFi coverage is spotty at the edges of the house on 2.4Ghz, and nonexistent at 5Ghz. Why couldn't there be a 1.8ish Ghz band for range and reliability? and without the baggage of legacy support (and the general mess that is every wireless device and it's mother using 2.4Ghz) it could probably manage similar speeds to 2.4Ghz on 802.11ax/ WiFi6. Additionally, in the same train of thought, why does EVERY peripheral use "2.4Ghz wireless" if it's a short range device like a mouse, or even headset, wouldn't a higher bandwidth, lower latency 5Ghz connection be beneficial? onto which I find my self wondering why is 2.4Ghz the go-to for short range things like Bluetooth, wouldn't it ALSO benefit from 5Ghz, with none of the downside? Heck, the IMO hopeless 60Ghz WiGig spec would be WAY better suited to short range devices like peripherals and how Bluetooth is often intended to work, though I am aware how spotty that could be for something like a mouse where your hand is covering most of it, but still better than trying to have a 802.11ad access point get through walls. TL;DR: Am I a crazy person for thinking a lower frequency band for WiFi would be a good thing, and 5Ghz for Bluetooth and other short range devices would be beneficial?

So with the threat of the network shutdown I pulled out one of my hoarded Phat, PAL BC PS3's to grab some games that I'd missed out on. However it took a LOT to get it online at all. 1) Ethernet - DNS Error 2) WiFi - DNS Error 3) Laptop sharing my home internet via WiFi - DNS Error Tried a few different rounds of DNS settings as well to no avail hail Mary time... Tried tethering to my phone (via WiFi)... EUREKA! somehow, for some reason I'm really confused and don't want to download some bigger stuff that way (inFamous: Festival Of Blood) Any ideas how I could maybe get my PS3('s) working connected to my home internet? The only thing I haven't tried is bypassing my router altogether and connecting directly to my NBN NTD (Fiber modem provided by the network) Is there a SPECIFIC DNS setup I should try that I've missed (I've tried Google, Cloudflare, local, and some that a few people online suggested but those were probably US based and I'm in Australia)

I'd rather use component temp, the fluid will take longer to heat up, so the fans ramping up would be delayed. Ideally I'd use power draw of each component so I could ramp the fans up BEFORE the temperature rises. I'm currently using an EK Loop Connect, it's pretty good now (even if it was COMPLETELY broken until only like 2 months ago). I'd be really happy if I could have it follow the temp of whatever is hottest, but in the mean time I manually turn my pump up or switch what it follows depending on what I'm doing... or set it to 100% for Folding@Home when I'm not in the room I will add a fluid temp sensor once EK releases the one for the Loop Connect, but until then it's not really an issue when my GPU Junction temp (5700XT) stays bellow 50C while I'm folding, and has never cracked 65C in games

I'm using a D5 with 2 blocks and 3 rads, it's great, and would be silent if I could run it off my hottest component at any given time, instead of tying it to either CPU OR GPU, but I have to err on the side of caution for now.

No worries, ever since the advent of Ryzen quad channel platforms have started fading into obscurity, honestly if I hadn't spent so much time on a triple channel platform (my previous PC on X58), and now on a quad channel one I'd probably have forgotten about them myself as well

it's a hefty chunk of change, but EK makes quality gear and I trust it. Depending on what is available to you it may be worth looking at different radiators I personally like AlphaCool as they give more inlet/outlet options, which can help for filling and draining. You just need to take some time to flush them out before using them. There's certainly places you could save money, but I'd 100% stick with EK for the Blocks regardless. Though I'm the last person to talk to about cutting costs on a watercooling loop (2 x 280mm @45mm thick, a 360mm @ 80mm thick, a bunch of 90 degree fittings monoblock, and 5.25" bay res/ pump combo. Probably more in cooling than most people spend on whole PC's... I think I have a problem, please send help )

the EK rads will be copper and brass, which is fine, you just don't want any aluminium in there. Nickel looks pretty and generally helps protect the copper underneath. But Silver and copper aren't a good mix, though it will just strip the nickel off and leave the bare copper, which doesn't sound too bad, but it will likely leave patches of nickel and the patchiness will look bad In simpler terms; Copper, Brass and Nickel all play nice together. Just use distilled water with a few drops of a concentrate biocide/ anti-corrosive agent (I think EK's is Cryofuel concentrate). It's really just a few drops to your loop each time you will it with distilled water. These concentrates come in colours as well if you want.

then I say use the fans you have initially, then you can always swap them out later. I've got a mix of old (3pin) noctua 120mm fans on a 350mm rad at the moment, and I'll be looking to upgrade to some A12's once they release the black ones in the next few months. Might look into the new 140mm fans they are releasing later in the year to replace my corsair ML fans on my 280mm rads as well, just because the ML's don't seal great onto radiators, probably only a couple of degrees C difference in the end, but I'm hoping to maybe drop my noise levels a little as well with better optimized fans.