freezeFall

I appreciate everyone's responses to this issue. For now the solution I am living with is a TP link repeater hooked up with OneMesh to the primary router in the house. It isn't the most perfect solution, but gets basic wifi into the shed that is usable in small speeds.

The use of the windows to the house is not my choice. I explained that on my first reply. What I want doesn't matter when it comes to that. That is why I was looking for wireless solutions from the beginning. I only have control over the tech and the shed, nothing else.

I'm going to reply to yours in order. Yes, I am aware that I am able to breath. Yes, I am aware that insulation of a space does not make a space airtight. There is a difference between airtight and avoiding a breeze pathway. Either way, hardline into the main house is not available with or without this option. For the purposes of strict definition, the window will have to be separated from its original seal that it can be locked into with the original locks. Basically if the window is raised at all, it would be considered "open". Under that definition, I cannot leave the house windows "open". If I misunderstood what you were talking about with the foam seal, then I apologize. When you say that, I picture a foam strip that fills the gap in a window that is raised by about half an inch. The cable either pierces this foam or is held between the foam and the window.

Explain?

While this is definitely possible, temperature inside the space cannot fall below 65°F (18.3°C). I would worry about window gaskets during the cold winter. (Michigan location) Also, I still can't hardware into the house. I do not own the house and the owners will not allow a window to be left open (I asked).

Hey all, I am trying to get WiFi into a metal outbuilding. The building has windows, and the signal kinda pierces, but the back half of the shed has no signal. The shed is about 50 feet away, and poking a hole in the side of either the house or the shed is not an option. It is a fully insulated space for for staying in for extended periods comfortably. Will a repeater work at a window where the wifi signal has a few bars? Should I go mesh? Or is there a stronger WiFi router I can use? I am using a TP link Archer AX6000.

These are 24/7 temperatures due to the continuous 100% load from F@H. I actually never knew this, since it has never mattered before and I have never overclocked my GPU. A quick google search suggests MSI Afterburner as the software of choice for overclocking and temp management of GPU, so I will go there. I will attempt, but I believe I remember trying before and it not quite fitting correctly. I also avoided this due to a few forums/videos saying that exhausting the air over the radiator is better in the long run. For the time being, I have turned the CPU folder off. I don't know if I am ready to invest in full custom water cooling yet, either with time or money. If that ends up being the necessity then I will do so when I am able.

Current Rig: ASUS Z390-E ROG Strix Gaming Intel LGA 1151 ATX Motherboard Intel Core i9-9900K (overclocked to 5 GHz running 1.28V.) EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Corsair Hydro H115i Platinum 280mm 3 x 120mm corsair intake fans on front of computer I am running Folding@Home continuously and I am having trouble keeping my temps down. Currently they sit pretty regularly in the high 70's c, hitting low 80's every once in a while. What cooling solution do I need to bring that down to where my computer is safe to run continuously? All of my corsair fans and my cooler pump are set to their "extreme" pre-settings, since I don't care very much about fan noise right now. Temperature was not as much of an issue when I had the GTX 960 that I upgraded from.