Felicity

yeah the official one is nonsense. especially after they released the 2.0 usb update, it became pretty much obsolete. It's more consistent technically since it's not copper/whatever cabling, it's fiber, but the price/performance is not worthwhile at all it's mostly just a scam tbh. if they really cared to work with Link they would have put a displayport connector on the quest 2 as well. also I don't know HOW this stuff will change with the quest 2 assuming you're getting that. so take everything I'm saying now as outdated info that was true for Q1, but might change dramatically. The bester place to read up is on the oculus forums, there are a few relatively knowledgeable people there (but a lot of parroting ppl/not so critical thinkers too)

i have barely enough space too and you'd be surprised at how quick a short cable will get yanked if you do anything that involves moving around at all, even just 2-3 meters. The extender is good for that since it will yank out of the extender and not the headset/pc. An all in one extender won't have that positive tho. Granted, I also did the silly hooks in my ceiling thing for pulleys so I could center the drop of the wire and run it along the ceiling and have the center of 'gravity' be in the middle of my room if I wanted to tryhard the setup. (doing all that was fun tho it was a project and got me through the insanity of early quarantine)

G203 or g305 if you want wireless. I could never get these mice below 65g because of the very small construction. But they are perfect for claw/fingertip gpw is fine but expensive and overrated. (i have 2 and modded both, i had a gpw down to 62g in weight wireless, didn't help the poor sides from being bad to grip onm) I use an xm1 now. the g403/703 (same mouse bscly) is huge and for palm grips. the mousepad is not very good. The lowest I got it to was 69g. the gpw has an INSANE battery life compared to the g703 also. the batteries don't even compare. I hear people really like the viper but yuck (opinion) the xm1 is awesome tho. I really like it. If you have issues with wires fix ur cabling with a bungee or somethin, wireless is nice but has some quirkiness sometimes

it'll work but I tried to stick my edit at the end there, 6m is just not long enough. I needed at least 10m to be comfortable, or 16m for a well-routed cabling situation. It will work fine tho if you just want to try it and then see how much length you need (blush).

yes but ....not yours >.> also, the rice thing doesn't help and is a myth, but it's not really ~bad~. the myth is that the rice will absorb the water which doesn't really actually happen without heat too

make sure you get it from a place that does returns so if I'm wrong and made a bad assumption, you can return it and try something else. troubleshooting sucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=usb+3.0+extender+active&qid=1600811799&s=electronics&sr=1-6 is what I used... but I had some issues with this other one, (several of the wires weren't soldered correctly... I opened it up and had a look lol I was really mad, it would only pass 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=usb+3.0+extender&qid=1600811737&s=electronics&sr=1-6 depsite them being from the same factory in china and being the SAME exact thing board-type. there are also nice ones that are more expensive, but it's probably the point of not spending too much. With this and the 10ft anker cable ($35? total I guessish) I got 16m of cabling I was able to use a pulley system for which was fun to make make sure it's active, whatever you buy. It will degrade the signal to 2.0 otherwise. (also there's a weird quirk where it may only work as 3.0 on one side of the usb-c... so direction still matters if using an extender idk I spent so much time on all this stuff trying to get link to work only to realize it was all on Oculus' side really edit: 6m was not long enough for me, even with a small room.

If it was the motherboard, it simply wouldn't work. A failing PSU could be struggling to survive, and occasionally feed power, but generally fail. Do you get any other bluescreen issues etc? Those are more likely in a mobo failure, where it just won't work period or will give a shitton of errors. Motherboards are also rare to fail like that unless it's straight up DoA, but power delivery can be questionable. I assume by unplug and replug everything you meant EVERYTHING, including all psu cables and internal stuff, maybe even a full rebuild. It's likely the psu tho. It's usually the psu.

Windows is indeed a mess. I like 1000hz for specific things in games, but 500hz pretty much seems to be superior in almost everything else. EVEN at 240hz, despite people wanting to tell me it stutters and is unusable. One of the best competitive players I know has been using 500hz since he switched, and won't ever go back. I didn't agree with him at first, but after giving it more time, it just seems better and it seems like the instability of holding 1000hz vs 500hz (in movement) is SO wildly different, even with stronger cpus, that 500hz is more stable despite 1000hz being more precise; and unstable imprecision is paradoxical. btw iCUE is garbage if you use process hacker and lower its priority and kill several of its process threads permanently it stops hogging as much cpu time and don't use the benq site for polling rate. at least use the softpedia download one result below on the google search for mouseratechecker, so you can keep a better log. The speed you're moving the mouse and in what ways also matters. These are all at 1000dpi on an XM1. I have this browser open, & steam, & using that site and not a better program for consistency, I'm also watching a YT video (might explain the stutterish things and might be -8 +4 cuz of the buffering the cpu is doing idk) and closed icue.

power supply first. then mobo. psu probably is failing i wouldnt be turning it on

100c idle = bro seriously reseat your cooler and make sure it's even functioning at all I don't even get 100c idle on passive cooling. make sure you ACTUALLY put it on RIGHT. I had a heatsink on wrong an entire season of overwatch wondering why i was framedropping and losing games cuz only during the most intensive moments (the most important ones) I was suddenly +400% input lag etc and got very frustrated only to learn i was having your problems Some monitoring software won't show over 100c or will harshly throttle

1 x USB 3.1 Gen 1 port(s) (1 at back panel, , Type-C) Yes. It is fine. Note you should try and be picky on your USB cable; quality does matter. A poor quality one just will have trouble pushing the same amount data NONSTOP for SO LONG. It will degrade fast. Adapters do too. it pushes a LOT of current. My motherboard trips overcurrent sometimes with the quest still plugged in... also the oculus software is a bloated mess of garbage Don't bother with c -> c cables, most are usb2. usb3.0 c -> c is always too expensive. Yes usb 2.0 works with link, but it's just not good at all. Anyone who says the quality/input lag can't be seen or felt is blind and brainlagging. Gen 2 sometimes has more issues with oculus link than gen 1 iirc. It's been a while. I dropped the quest for the index as fast as I could. That anker one above ^ is what I used and it's fantastic. Along with an actively powered extender, you get a very long cable.

more than i want to admit with audio it's either: compromise and get used to it and then maybe blow $2000 on all the stuff you need in the future when you win the lottery buy budget stuff (Such as xonar cards, usb amps, etc) that emulate amps fairly well but only because you aren't able to use/try a real one; or you spend so much on audio you forget anything else exists in the world (i just did this with vr haha, but just had to buy new headphones so i ended up crawling forums again) The metallic noise sounds EXACTLY like the problems my friend had. He was trying to stream, and it was literally unwatchable. He couldn't hear it but it was this constant metallic screeching from all the interference. iirc the fix was an uninterruptible power supply, a DAC, and a bunch of other expensive stuff but I'd have to ask him again. You may just need a new motherboard. I'm sure someone else might have a better answer than me, though, as I never personally had this problem.

This is most likely a ground loop issue and interference with poorly integrated electrical grids in your home/area. I will note that adding an external sound card will not help this, and often will make it worse- that ground loop interference is now no longer being shielded by the motherboard's own shielding, and they generally have none of their own. You can get isolators and shielding for this but I never had to and don't know what to go for. I do wanna note that several Xonar cards (as mentioned above) in my humble opinion greatly improve sound quality over onboard- especially on budget motherboards, budget motherboards (under $300? probably bad onboard) slack on the clarity. Those xonars are the most affordable onboard if you really don't want an external DAC/AMP. The DGX is probably the best for your purposes, but is out of your price range. The DGX has a good amp system, and a few features that make things like streaming much easier.