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EVGA has 3090 and 3080 Hydro cards in there product announcement with a block for custom loop cooling.

Gamers Nexus posted a video on this recently.

What about SilverStone's GD series?

@MaximumBubbleMods What filament are you using for your 3d printed parts.

You may want to look for a higher wattage power supply. PowerColor's minimum recommended wattage is 700W for the Red Devil.

Rustoleum Bed Liner in the spray can matches powdercoat texture really well if you do light coats.

All, I'm in need of some advice. I was cleaning the thermal compound off of my CPU, and I ended up with some pushed to the top edge of the CPU/socket. For some reason, I decided to pull the CPU out of the socket to clean it up. In the process, I got a little on a few pins. I got the majority of it cleaned up, but I'm trying to determine the best way to make sure that I have it all out from between the pins. I'm using small alcohol wipes for the cleaning, so I'm thinking of folding it over a razor blade and using the dull side to go between the pins. Anyone else have thoughts or experience with this?

I've seen dual GPUs run in parallel, but the CPU has always been in series with the GPUs. I've never seen a loop that runs the CPU and GPU in parallel. Granted, I'm new to watercooling, as well, so I haven't seen it all by any means.

A dremel will work. It's just slower than the angle grinder. Pick up some reinforced cutting wheels for the dremel and go at it. Also you can flatten the sheet metal that you cut with the snips with a hammer. It won't be perfect, but it should be usable.

Surprised no one else pointed out the weird cpu/gpu parallel loop route. Typical is routing is cpu/gpu in series, so into the gpu, the gpu out to the cpu in, and the cpu out to the radiators. Alternatively, you could run into the gpu, gpu out to 1st rad, the rad out to cpu in, and cpu out to 2nd rad.

Build update time! I've been running the system and haven't been satisfied with the performance of the Silverstone cooler. My CPU temps at idle run 40-50 °C. Also, during the week-long F@H event, it sat at around 80 °C with the fan maxed out. Bitspower released a monoblock for my motherboard, so I decided to cram a custom water loop in my Fractal Design Core 500. I also decided to upgrade to an RX 5700 XT and watercool it. I'm waiting on delivery of the EKWB block. I also upgraded to an 800 watt SFX power supply to give a little more case space. Asus recommends 650W for the 5700 XT and Ryzen 5, so I also don't have to worry about running out of power. Starting to tear it down: Moved optical drive into external enclosure: New power supply installed:

Have you looked at Silverstone's case selection?

Ah...I see. I didn't think about the height being an issue. I'm currently running a Gigabyte RX 5500 XT OC 8G, and you can definitely hear the fans when they ramp up while I'm running F@H. However, I don't consider it excessive. I am in the process of upgrading to an Asus ROG Strix RX 5700 XT. It was delivered today, and I'll be watercooling it. I may try throwing it in my system this week while I'm waiting for the final parts for my upgrade to arrive from the EU. However, it may not fit with the air cooler because I'm running a Fractal Core 500 case.

I see. How much room was there between the Gigabyte card and the bottom of the case? The case literature I found says that it will take a 350mm long card, but doesn't mention width. The Gigabyte card was 279.85mm long by 49.5mm thick. The Red Devil is 300mm long by 53mm thick. The Pulse is 254mm by 46.5mm. The Nitro+ is 306mm by 49mm. The ROG Strix is 305mm by 54mm. So it looks to me that if the Gigabyte fit the case and wasn't sitting on the bottom then any of those should work. The Pulse is thinner than the GB card, and the Nitro+ is the same size. The RD and ROG are only 4-5 mm thicker.

From everything I've seen, the general rule of thumb is 120mm of radiator per component, so, in theory, you need a minimum of a 240 radiator for a gpu/cpu loop.

Why didn't the Gigabyte card work out? Was it too thick and didn't fit?

What case are you building in? What are the max card dimensions allowed?

That depends on what your end goal is.

Have you tried plugging each component into the motherboard separately to make sure they each work? Have you double-checked the orientation of the connectors to ensure that the positive pins are aligned? If you've done both of those, your controller might be DOA. EDIT: Another possibility... Are all of your components digital RGB (aka drgb/argb) or are they 12V 4-pin RGB? That controller is drgb only. If your component is 12V RGB, you're only applying 5V to the 12V power pin and the digital signal is being applied to the Green pin, which would give you a dim green only illumination.

The RGB lighting in the pump/cpu block body is controlled through the usb cable that the manual tells you to connect on an internal motherboard header. That connector is for daisy-chaining other RGB devices to the pump, so they can all be controlled together.

You could use the In Range function (https://zone.ni.com/reference/en-XX/help/371361R-01/glang/in_range_and_coerce/) for your At Temp comparison. Feed it the setpoint run through multipliers to set the high/low limits. Then also use the high/low multiplier outputs to also feed your other comparisons.

Luckily, Noctua's retail pricing doesn't follow the exchange rate going from euro/pound to USD. The 3k rpm industrial Noctua fans are only US$25.95 straight from Noctua through Amazon.

Are you in the US? Standard service is typically 200A, single phase 220V, unless you're in a really old house that hasn't been updated.

Why not just install a 220V outlet wherever you're putting the server? The power into your house is 220V, so you just need to tap off an existing 220V circuit in your house (electric dryer, water heater, HVAC/electric heat, and electric stove/oven) or run a new circuit from your panel.

Awesome work, @theskaz.