ChopNorris

Firs t of all I want to apologize for not giving any update, have been pretty busy at work. I followed your advice and installed the Thermalright contact frame and the results have been pretty amazing. I want to tinker a bit more and go further with OC and undervolt, but I'm waiting to have some spare time, I'll follow what you've posted when the time come.
 
Thanks!!
 
In the last test I did (with the contact frame installed) I its in 1.343 V with mode 1 activated. Which seems to be pretty high from what you say.
Thanks for answering.

Try updating your Drivers if that doesn't work then try a BIOS update.

have you tried any Different ports?

wireless interference

On your Old PC, would you plug it in to a USB 2.0 or 3.0?

The reviews I´m seeing leave both models in a good position, I´m assuming that the requirements made by nvidia made almost all the models have more coolers than needed. My concern is mostly about the BIOS limiting to 450W and possible RMA service if needed. The PNY is the non-OC version, which I assume is the same but with lower clocks out of the box.
 
The prices we are getting here in Europe are just ridiculous not gonna lie.

From the reviews i found they should both have pretty good coolers 
 
 
Yes the MSRP for Europe is 1,859€ - same as the founders edition though its always sold out
Here in Germany the cheapest 4090 is 1950€ and its the stupid Manli Gallardo 😕

For what I´ve been reading it is the manufacturer of the Qadro series, so I assume it must be decent. The thing now is getting it of going for the KFA2 if it has a better PCB or cooler.
 
Actually the 1800€ would be under MSRP assuming 1600USD = 1508€ + 21% TAX = 1824€. And the shop is trust worthy, I´ve built a few PCs there.

1800€ sounds really good for a 4090 go for it! Either way have fun with your new card!
 
The PNY looks very decent

KFA2 is a decent Brand with some solid options. But the MSI SUPRIM is really good in terms of power delivery and cooling and not comparable with the KFA2 in therms of build quality.
 
Since you plan on buying the fastest and most expensive gaming GPU i would recommend the SUPRIM but i can also see how someone would like to safe the 300€
 
I cant find the link right now but there was a comparison of the 4090s power delivery in this forum and the SUPRIM was on top.

KFA2 4090 is a pretty decent card, I don't see why you would spend 300 euros more on a slightly better designed product.
 
If you really cant stand the look thats on you, but from a product standpoint you can choose either and be just fine.

The SUPRIM X is one of the if not the best custom 4090 and the KFA2 is pretty low tier. I would say at 2000€ the extra 300 could be worth it.

LG has the fastest panel, having best response times.
Asus and Gigabyte have better contrast, and Gigabyte has the best brightness. Gigabyte is only one that is HDR 400 certified, but that doesn't mean much as none of them has amazing HDR capabilities.
Gigabyte has slightly better factory calibration for the colors, but I doubt you would notice the difference even if watching all three of them side by side.
Asus has the best ergonomics, but hard to say how important this is to you.
Asus and Gigabyte also has black frame insertion which should reduce blur, but I don't understand it well enough to comment on it really.
You cannot go wrong with any of them so you can choose the cheapest option.

I would suggest the Asus Tuf VG27AQ out of the 3.
 
The LG has rather crap contrast.
The Gigabyte while good, did show worse uniformity.
 
So IMO, the safest option of the 3 is the Asus VG27AQ.

The best monitor right now IMO is the Lenovo Y27gq but that’s more than your budget. 
 
The next best is the ASUS PG279Q which is within your budget. 
 
 

That's like your opinion, man ...
I'd prefer IPS meself.
TN should be left for pro-s.

I did say IMO 😅
 
The Lenovo is a 2nd Gen 8-bit TN Monitor and nothing like what you would expect compared to other TN monitors - which are imo horrible, however this one is almost as close to a IPS panel as I’ve seen, but with far better response times & obviously 240Hz at 1440p. 
 
I’ve made a YouTube video showcasing just how good of a monitor it is. 
 
It would surprise you how good colours can be reproduced on that monitor. 
 
So it’s for anyone who wants to futureproof with a Native G-Sync Ultimate Module powering a higher resolution, buttery smooth 240Hz screen. 
 
The second monitor I recommended is a IPS monitor though. 

Yea, newer TN panels are getting better color reproduction, but newer IPS are getting better response times.
Viewing angles are the weakest points still, ant imo TN can't overcome that, by design afaik.

IPS are getting slightly better, but still on Average not good enough for 240Hz, since they sit above 4.7ms usually, especially considering Average & highs. 
 
Perfectly fine for 120-165Hz which is what most people will aim for, however. 
 
I sit directly in front of any monitor I use, so at 27” - viewing angles just don’t matter since I’ll always be dead centre. 
 
If you’re looking / watching / playing off centre, then I can appreciate viewing angles my be an issue or concern, but then cheaper IPS panels have back light bleed which is horrible too. 

I would either get a 100hz 1440p ultra wide
 
or a 240hz IPS 1080p display

depends on how much esports gaming you do.

I like to recommend these three, two of which you've already found.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gl850-b
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/asus/tuf-vg27aq
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/gigabyte/aorus-fi27q
 
If you want to save few euros see if these two are cheaper.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gl83a-b
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/pixio/px7-prime
 
Here's a table tool you can use to search for even more options, if you want to.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/table/33259
 
And lastly, I would suggest you read trough this thread as it has heaps of good information and will help you understand the reviews better.
 

Undervolting doesn't really have a safe limit, whatever is the lowest you can possibly get without instability/crashing is ideal. Components will only be damaged by too much, not too little power.

if your worried about it being unstable just try running it in a benchmark in an hour or so, thats the easiest way to tell if its stable or not.
 
i would just go down little by little until the frequency cant keep up.

What you have currently is fine. If all else fails, you can always use zip ties. 

You can use a gpu pwm fan adapter. This is what I usually use: https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-Splitter-Adapter-Sleeved-Graphics/dp/B07T95C68T
NF-F12 Chromax is also good in that they come with shorter cables meant to be used with extensions but they end up very clean on a graphics card.