ChopNorris

Hello, sorry for the delay but I've been quite busy these days. After validating the account and restarting now it just says "Administrate my accounts". but again redirects me to the Microsoft website/ I do not understand how it can be so complex to simply unlog. Thanks again!

Thanks both for answering, I can't find the "Sign in with a local account instead" option. The options I get are the next ones: It is in Spanish, but the "Account settings" part would be the one in yellow, which instead says "Check your identity to sync your passwords in all your devices"/ Under that it says "Manage your accounts" but it takes me to the MS Account management website. The other option you say I understand it would force me lose my account right? Don't know what netplwiz is/ Thanks again!

Hello everyone, I use the Ghost version of windows 11, which afters installing uses a local account instead of a microsoft one. I made a mistake while installing OneDrive and my system started using my Microsoft account, however, I would like to go back to the local one instead. I've been wandering around the different options and I don't find a way to do it. Is there a way to sort it out? Or am I stuck with having my Microsoft account logged? Thanks in advance!

Firs t of all I want to apologize for not giving any update, have been pretty busy at work. I followed your advice and installed the Thermalright contact frame and the results have been pretty amazing. I want to tinker a bit more and go further with OC and undervolt, but I'm waiting to have some spare time, I'll follow what you've posted when the time come. Thanks!! In the last test I did (with the contact frame installed) I its in 1.343 V with mode 1 activated. Which seems to be pretty high from what you say. Thanks for answering.

Hello everyone, I've got two Samsung 980 PRO of 1 TB in RAID 0 (via BIOS settings), for what I've seen a new firmware that solved critical errors have been released, being its installation highly recommended from what I know, My problem is that by having them in RAID I don't find any way to put them in Samsung Magician. How can I update the firmware? Some software that I can use instead of Samsung Magician to monitor errors and similar things? I've thought of deactivating the BIOS setting for the RAID and boot a Windows Live USB, then install the Samsung Magician and do everything I need from there. But I don't know if it could break my Windows installation or give any problems in the future. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

The controller is connected via a usb receiver, and the dac and headphones are completely wired. How could it cause an interference? Thanks again!

I would say 3.0, but not completely sure. I've noticed than it does it too when I turn on the xbox wireless controller. Not sure why it could be.

I'll tweak a bit more with the undervolt, before ln2 I would just go for a 420 AIO. I've read about the contact frames, but I thought they invalidated the warranty. I'm not an expert in OC at all, but I assumed that OC would do just the opposite. What would be the procedure you recommend? About the 70C in game is not something that annoyes me, it is ore about ti reaching that temp at barely 30% of load. Thanks again!

Yes, tried both the USB C ports and also with an adapter to USB A.

Did both just after building the PC, sadly I don't think that is the problem. Thanks!

I find it kind of ridiculous, I mean, it is hitting 70C at 30% of load... that is almost what my 3800x reached at full load. I suppose I'll try to undervolt a little further, but at this point I don't believe it will make much of a difference.

Hello everyone, I've swaped my PC a few days ago and I'm having a problem with my headset. I have a Philips Fidelio X2HR connected on a DAC from aliexpress that was recommened by a friend (not sure if I can post the link, the model is DAC CS43131 DSD256). I had this setup working perfectly in my old PC, but after swaping to the new one I have to unplug and replug the DAC each time so It is detected. After that it runs seamlessly, but It is pretty annoying to unplug it every time I turn on the PC. I'm connecting it directly to an USB C port on the back of the mobo, but I've also tried it in the other port and using the USB C to USB A that I was using in the old PC. Edit: Forgot to mention that some times also happens when opening a game. Any idea of what can it be? Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone, I'm writing this because I've just build my new PC a few days ago and I'm a bit annoyed about the temps I'm getting on the CPU. I'm using a 13700K with an NH D15 on a Phanteks P500A. The mobo is a MSI MAG z790 TOMAHAWK in which I've set CPU Lite Load to Mode 1 instead of undervolting via an offset, with no other changes made in BIOS. The case fans are set as 3x140 (the rgb ones that came with the case) as an intake in the front, 3x Arctic P12 as an exhaust at the top, and finally one Arctic P14 as an exhaust in the back; which I think is a really good config for an air cooled PC. The temps and voltages that I'm getting in cinebench R23 are these: While gaming it sits in around 65/70, which would not worry me if it wasn't under such a little load. What do you guys think? Am I worrying about nothing? Is the Noctua just not enough? Should I undervolt more? I've read about this new gen being really hot, but I've had a Noctua for a few years and always performed perfectly. Thanks in advance!

The reviews I´m seeing leave both models in a good position, I´m assuming that the requirements made by nvidia made almost all the models have more coolers than needed. My concern is mostly about the BIOS limiting to 450W and possible RMA service if needed. The PNY is the non-OC version, which I assume is the same but with lower clocks out of the box. The prices we are getting here in Europe are just ridiculous not gonna lie.

For what I´ve been reading it is the manufacturer of the Qadro series, so I assume it must be decent. The thing now is getting it of going for the KFA2 if it has a better PCB or cooler. Actually the 1800€ would be under MSRP assuming 1600USD = 1508€ + 21% TAX = 1824€. And the shop is trust worthy, I´ve built a few PCs there.

I´ve been thinking and I´m probably skipping on the SUPRIM since I don´t see much benefit for the extra 300€. In addition, there is stock of a PNY 4090 for 1800€, but I´ve seen that it is limited to 450w. I´ll probably go either for the PNY or the KFA2, but I have to thing about it. Thanks again!

Thanks both for answering! This is one of the things that confuse me the most, in some places KFA2 is pictured as a good overall brand, with the SG 4090 trading blows with more expensive options, and in other places the directly recommended avoiding it. About the looks, I don´t like it, but in the end is just a GPU, if the performance and components are the same I don't think is worth to overpay 300€. Thanks again!

Hello everyone, I´m going to upgrade my PC and I´m wondering about how worth is to expend an extra amount of money for a more premium version of the 4090. I live in Spain and I´m between the KFA2 SG 4090 (1900€) and the MSI 4090 SUPRIM X (2200€). I already have a KFA2 2080s and had 0 issues with it, but I find the design of the 4090 extremely unpleasing, however I know it is stupid to waste 300 extra bucks just for aesthetics. On the other hand, it is an almost 2000€ product so I would not mind expending a bit more if the ´´premium´´ component such as the pcb or capacitors make a difference. What do you guys think? I´ve been checking some reviews and still can´t make up my mind. Thanks in advance!

The situation is just straight up ridiculous. We must choose between a 7900xtx and hope for driver improvements that might never come, specially because I been told some hardware flaws have been found (can’t elaborate much since I’m still trying to find more info); drop the big bucks for a 4090; or just settle for a 4080 knowing that your getting a worse price per frame. And taking into account that the three are incredibly overpriced to begin with. I’m still trying to decide what to do, but the start of this gen is being incredibly frustrating.

I'm in the same situation as you are. Was planning to get an 7900XTX expecting a bigger gap in perfromance between it and the 4080, and I'm quite dissapointed. In the US market I would go hands down for the AMD, but with the pricing we are getting in Spain the difference is almost neglectible. At this point I'm even considering just going for a 4090. In addition, as you have probably already noticed, right now the XTX is compeletely out of stock in the main shops we have here. The only thing keeping me from completely discarding AMD is their past record of improving their performance over time with better drivers. Which could differenciate it a bit from the 4080.

Thanks to anyone for the responses! For now I´m between the ASUS TUF VG27AQ and the LG 27GL850-B. I´m watching reviews of both and I think they´re both good options. The gigabyte is almost 80 bucks more, and I don´t think It is a justified overprice. I´ll probably choose according to avaibility since the Asus is not available in Amazon (I must check where I could buy it, usually get monitors in amazon due to thei return politic so I can avoid IPS bleeding and similar problems). Since nobody is talking about ultrawides I suppose that they´re not worth? Last question is if there is any upcoming monitor I should check like the Samsung G7, I can wait if that is the case. Thanks again!

I´ve read the post about how to choose, really interesting and instructing. I´ve checked the reviews of rtings and they talk good things about the three of them. Here in Spain the AORUS is 80€ more expensive, which I could afford if its worth. The point is that I really dont find any aspect of those monitors that make me decide between them. At least with my knowledge. The cheap options you mentioned cost the same as the other three here, so I think I´ll discard them. Thanks for the suggestion anyway! About the ultrawide option. I find it really interesting but not sure if my rig could keep 120 hz on that resolution. I dont do a lot of esport gaming, just some MOBA from time to time (and in a really amateur level), so I dont think that going for 240hz would make any difference for me. Any extra advice is appreciated. Thanks again!

Hello everyone, first of all I must say that I don´t know much about gaming monitors, so I´m a bit lost. I´m willing to pay around 500€, but I could go a bit higher if it is really worth it. I´ve got a 2080super and a 3800x, so I have doubts about if I should go for the 2k or 4k for a long term investment. I want it to be >120hz, preferably IPS and with a low response time. Nowadays I´m using a monitor with freesync and seems to be enough for me, anyway I really dont know if paying extra for G-sync brings any benefit. About HDR and other tenchologies, I just dont know what they do or if I´m going to take advantage of them. About the size I would like it to be 24´, but most 2k monitors I´ve seen starts at 27´. I´ve been looking around and I found these 3 that seems interesting: - Asus TUF Gaming VG27AQ - LG 27GL850-B - Samsung Odyssey G7 (this one hasn´t been released yet and It is a bit more expensive, and again I do not know it is worth paying the extra) What do you guys think? Any other monitor I should check? Thanks in advance!

If I´m not wrong the Viewsonic xg2405 has the same panel as the AOC is easier to find it in stock. It is the one I´ve got and I´m pretty happy with it.

Thanks for the replies, what concerns me is that maybe the GPU is reducing frecuencies to avoid unstability or something. But according to Aferburner it stills beetween 1905-1935 Mhz. I´ve compared with a friend with another 2080s and he can´t go under 1,012v. I find pretty strange that the difference can be so big.