lgcas

18-22-22-42 for the c18, 16-19-19-36 for the c16. Both dual rank.

Your board does indeed have a bios flashback port and button (or at least the manual says it does), if you have another pc you can use to make a USB with the bios on, I'd do that instead of the internet option, if it says that bios is for your board and revision (if the latter applies) then it should work - otherwise just flashback. You may prefer to do your fans in the bios, I'd recommend something like FanControl honestly, just makes things easier and if you ever need to clear your CMOS you don't need to redo everything. Otherwise, make sure that your fans are set to the right type (e.g. PWM vs DC) and plugged in to the right headers for PWM control.

Hi all, Recently I’ve been looking at upgrading my pc’s ram from 16gb as I’m starting to limitations – mainly modded Minecraft or rendering (and loading large projects) on FL Studio where ram usage can hit 97%/use up to 12.5gb. I’ve been looking at two Corsair kits, one is 32gb (2x16gb, 3600mhz, cl16, CMK32GX4M2D3600C16) and the other is 64gb (3600mhz, 2x32gb, cl18, CMK64GX4M2D3600C18) with the difference between them being £41/$51.82 (USD) so it is pretty tempting to go for the larger capacity (as well as the fact that it’s listed as “compatible” on Corsair’s website, the 32gb kit isn’t on any kind of QVL or list for my board). The question is whether or not the larger kit is worth getting for the price? My main concern is the latency affecting 1% low frame rates. If not, should the timings be too strict for my cpu on the 32gb kit? I currently run 3600mhz cl16 at 16gb with no issues with XMP reaching rated speeds. Specs, if needed: CPU: 5600x Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro AC running latest bios (F16) Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16gb, 3600mhz, cl16 (CMK16GX4M2D3600C16) GPU: MSI RTX 3060 Ti Gaming X Trio Thanks!

Choices with clicky switches are more limited, that can make choosing a lot easier though lol. I was looking at these but didn't go for them in the end because they seemed too light for me, maybe you'd like them. Uses a different mechanism rather than a clickbar or leaf like standard clicky switches.

Sounds like you'd want to look at lighter actuation force tactile switches, I'd look at getting a switch tester with a bunch of tactile switches to try out to see what you like. Tactile are like clicky switches but without the audible click and don't feel as "sharp", you could start as simple as gateron browns or go heavier like kailh royal purples or gateron baby kangaroo switches; or something more generic like boba u4t (or u4s for silent versions, outemu silent sky/forest switches could also work but, if I remember correctly, only fit their own hotswap sockets). I'd read some articles on theremingoats website for tactile reviews, there's comparisons to other switches and graphs that show you how smooth or jarring each switch is. Also make sure to lube your stabilisers or get prelubed ones. Maybe get a hotswap board if you end up regretting your choice of switches and want to change them.

If available in your country, something by APC or tripp lite would be good, I see a lot of places recommend 2k+ joules for anything "gaming pc related". My APC, a surge arrest essential was relatively cheap and has, if I remember correctly, 1900 joules of protection. Many, such as the APC surge arrest line, come with a ground and/or fault indicator (however their models with USB ports don't, or at least mine didn't); keep in mind they will tell you in the manual to connect the surge protector to a grounded socket. I'd presume the warranty cannot be claimed if it is not - your sockets really should be grounded anyway.

Apparently it has been reintroduced in bios versions with agesa 1.2.0.6 as reported by some users, check page 1066 and 1067

As for the pcb, I'd suggest to try and find something qmk/via supported if you're looking a buying a kit rather than something "almost prebuilt" like gmmk/similar stuff. Hotswap pcbs are also an option if you can't/hate soldering, but it's a nice skill to have if you don't already. For stabilisers, get something like durock or everglades and if they rattle you can lube them or tape/foam the wire where they contact other parts to stop rattle. For switches it depends if you want tactility or linear feeling switches (clicky switches kind of go out the window unless you, I guess, look at the new muted jade switches), some good suggestions I can think of off the top of my head are aliaz switches, boba u4 (not u4t, unless you want more "thocky" style), silent ink blacks, silent sky switches, or zilents (pricey). Lubing them would also help but it can remove tactility. There are sites now to browse individual parts in one place like keeb.gg (there was another one but I unfortunately cannot remember its name). Welcome to the hobby!

I don't have a k552 but I have used ymdk caps (ymdk miami cherry profile) for my new board. They're definitely higher quality than anything stock I've used on a board but with the "pro", depending on how you look at it, that they are thin enough that on cherry profile caps they don't cause interference on the home row for my North facing switches.

As you're already looking at lighter weight mice, it might be worth looking at xtrfy's offerings. I use the m42 which is ambidextrous and has swappable backs to suit either palm or claw grip. They also do the m4 which is a more ergonomic shape. Can be a pro or a con for some but they don't use software and lighting + dpi can be changed on the mouse via buttons (albeit with profiles, but with such a light mouse I had to lower my dpi anyway). They also have the "covered in holes" design.

Bought a compucleaner blower for use on fans and heatsinks. Clean filters using a soft brush. Got some harder brushes for stubborn dust. Used to use cans of air which were great to clean my old blower card but the price just adds up, ditched the cans and the card

TM680 uses plate mounted stabilisers from what I can see. Could look at durock plate mount or everglide panda plate mount, iirc you can clip the everglades and durocks are pre-clipped

Hi, Sorry if this has been asked before; I am running a 5600x on a B550 Aorus Pro AC at stock (no PBO) settings with the cpu voltage set to auto both in the bios (where I can select auto, normal or any numerical value) and in ryzen master and have noticed via looking in cpu-z that the voltage, when idle/on the desktop, can spike to around 1.41 volts with averages around 1.34 volts and lows of 0.9v. When gaming this value ranges from around 1.375-1.388 with spikes of around 1.43v. When gaming my temps never go over 51°C when monitoring with Tctl/Tdie. On Hwinfo, on the dekstop, the voltage varies from around 1.35-1.36 on SVI2 TFN with rises to 1.38 whilst gaming (spikes of 1.43v). On ryzen master, on the desktop it's around 1.05 volts but I read that HwInfo/CPU-Z is more accurate. Voltage drops whilst doing an R23 benchmark to around 1.15v on SVI2 TFN with around 56°C. Scores are 1527 single core and 10224 multi core; I tested these in January too and got 1529 single core and 10604 for multi core. However the older test was done when the PC was relatively new and with older chipset drivers. For power limits, average usage whilst gaming (measured on Hwinfo) are: 55% for PPT, 19% for TDC and 24.6% for EDC. I saw the AMD table image that shows that the max normal operating voltage is 1.5v for zen 3 but have read quite a bit of conflicting information online about what is deemed the normal operating range for zen 3. Is this normal for a zen 3 processor? Or am I accelerating degredation of the chip? It has been running for around 7 months now with no apparent issue. Thanks!

When you swapped power supplies, did you also switch the cables? If they are different models then it is more than likely that they use different pinouts and something has therefore been damaged on the motherboard

The PSU, especially for the current gpu and wanted cpu is excessive, you would do fine with 650w or even lower with the current gpu. Get a cheaper psu then use the savings on a better gpu when they are in existence again. Something like a seasonic GX-650 or an RMX unit