Jump to content

ExDe707

Member
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ExDe707's Achievements

  1. I'm currently powering my PC with a Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650W PSU which supplies an i7-9700K overclocked to 4.8GHz@1.32V and an undervolted MSI GTX 1080 ARMOR 8G OC. Seeing how much more power hungry the RTX 3080 is (320W compared to 180W) and running through a few PSU calculators, I'm likely going to have to remove my overclock on my CPU. Can anyone confirm this? Full PC build:
  2. Thanks! Can you give me an example of such a shroud which I can buy on Amazon?
  3. Ever since I installed two 140mm top fans I feel like my PC has been heating up my room far more than I anticipated even though I undervolted my GPU so it doesn't heat up too much and my overclocked CPU is cooled very well by my AIO. My exact setup: Front LL140s and ML140s in push/ pull going at 1200rpm, top HD140s going at 1000rpm and rear HD120 going at 1300RPM. The heat in the room starts to become noticeable especially when I play Elite: Dangerous on Ultra settings (non-VR) which makes playing in VR at summer unbearable. I live in a stupidly humid area to the point where 20°C nights are common and tedious. All I have to combat the heat is a tiny dehumidifier and a tower fan. With how often I used to play full-body VRChat, I find myself taking off my Valve Index after just about 30 minutes of playing and the face gasket is already drenched in sweat. Anything I can do to combat the heat? Maybe my fans are set up wrong, would reducing the speed of the top fans help?
  4. I started out with a rather modest PC build back in December 2017. It included a MSI GTX 1080 Armor OC and an i5-8400 cooled by a Cryorig H7. Fast forward to today and now my rig's looking much flashier! Pics below. I would also like you to rate my cable management. GIF of RGB effects: PCPartPicker Part List: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/D9z7Jb CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (Overclocked to 4.8GHz@1.32v) CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H115i RGB Pro XT 63 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: MSI Z370 PC PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 CL16 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Video Card Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400 ATX Mid Tower Case (Upgraded to White Mesh Front Panel from the P400A) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit Case Fan: Corsair HD120 RGB 54.4 CFM 120 mm Fan Case Fan: Corsair HD140 RGB 2-Pack w/Controller 74 CFM 140 mm Fans Case Fan: Corsair LL140 RGB LED (TwoFans With Lighting Node PRO) 51.5 CFM 140 mm Fans RGB Strips: Corsair iCUE LS100 Smart Lighting Strip Expansion Kit 250mm
  5. I managed to solve it. All I needed to do was to restart and enter BIOS. However, with my MSI Z370 PC PRO (BIOS was already updated to the newest version 7B49v19) I had to entirely remove my GPU (MSI GTX 1080 ARMOR OC) since it just doesn't show the BIOS (Debug light "VGA" is on during boot screen, goes off once windows is ready and everything works after that) and plug in my display to my monitor.
  6. Upgraded my PC, put in new CPU and new cooler, boots straight to windows. Yay! But windows apparently still thinks it's got the old i5-8400 in it? Restarted my PC multiple times already, no change. CPU-Z identified the i7-9700K, HWMonitor shows it as an i7-7700 and Windows thinks it's my old i5-8400. Help?
  7. So those wouldn't work even with an adapter like this? https://www.ebay.de/itm/Corsair-RGB-to-Aura-Mystic-Light-A-RGB-Adapter-/372521827376
  8. I've been hoping someone who knows more about the case could help me out here. I've made a few pictures of the case and I'm including a video in how the Phanteks P400's front LEDs are connected. I am certian there's a way to make both of these work since both the power button LED and bottom RGB strip are addressable. Might need adapters, but which? Front LED: Circuit board that connects the LEDs and buttons. Note the two white connectors next to each other are connected to pins that say "R G B"
  9. I have a MSI Z370 PC PRO. Though I'm not concerned with motherboard compatibility. What I'm looking for is a way to connect the power button LED and case bottom RGB strip to the commander pro so I can control them with iCUE. Also corrected my fan count, 5 RGB fans and 2 non-RGB fans, so I can use one rgb hub and connect it to the commander pro and I think for the two non-RGB fans I can use a splitter cable to fit in all fan slots on the commander pro?
  10. I'm going to add a Corsair iCUE H115i RGB PRO XT to my build and already have three Corsair HD series fans, one 120mm at the rear and two 140mm at the front. Thinking about going push/ pull on the rad with the ML fans in pull and the HD fans on push. Possibly add two more HD140 fans at the top blowing fresh air into the case to compensate for the hot radiator air. All this kinda neccessitates the Commander Pro to coordinate all the fancy bits. Side question: I have a fan hub that came with the two 140mms, can I make use of that since I'll have 7 fans, one more than the Commander PRO can take? 5 of them are RGB. If not, what would I need? Haven't ever tried corsair iCUE or the commander pro. Main question though is can I control the power button and front lower panel of my Phanteks Eclipse P400 case with the commander pro? If so, what would I need to make it work?
  11. So 4 fans in front? HD140 fans pushing and ML140 fans from the AIO pulling would that work if I set the ML140s to spin slightly slower? Would putting the ML140s on the top while leaving the HD140s at the front with the radiator in push be a worse setup? If so, by how much?
  12. I currently have my PC built in a Phanteks Eclipse P400 with a Cryorig H7 cooling the CPU, two Corsair HD140s at the front for intake and one Corsiar HD120 at the rear for exhaust. I plan on upgrading the CPU and going for a 280mm AIO which comes with two extra 140mm fans for the radiator. The cooler in question is a Corsair iCUE H115i RGB PRO XT 280mm. I'm also going to replace the front panel with the P400A mesh panel for better airlfow and fan visibility on the front. So this leaves me with 5 fans, one 120mm RGB for the back, two RGB 140mm and two non-RGB 140mm. And a radiator which can only be placed at the front since top doesn't have enough clearance for any sort of radiator support. What is the best fan setup that I can do with this with both aesthetics and performance in mind? Push, pull or push/ pull for the radiator?
  13. Thanks for the help! Just looking to clear up the question of having to reinstall Windows 10 or not when swapping all that gear. Hopefully not, don't want to lose tons of data worth of memes, videos, game saves and Unity projects!
  14. That looks pretty good. Although, the Dark Rock Pro 4 won't fit in my Phanteks Eclipse P400 since it has a max cooler clearance of 160mm white the Dark Rock Pro 4 has 162.8mm. Any alternatives? Also, how does swapping from Intel CPU+Mobo to AMD Mobo+CPU work? I hope I won't have to reinstall everything.
×