ubuntu-guru

Clearly were already on LTT Forum, its not like its a replacement.  I barely use Reddit as I think its UI sucks, though there is no denying its a big source of information when doing web searches.

Spoken like a man who never owned a Packard Bell.

If you're talking about the msi x570 board in your description, you also have the option of using a usb 3.2 gen2 type A connector in the back, not just the type c connector.
 
Anynway, here's some suggestions :
StarTech.com HB31C3A1CB 4-Port USB-C Hub - 10Gbps - 3x USB-A & 1x USB-C - 9.8" Host Cable (HB31C3A1CB) - Newegg.com
StarTech.com HB31C3A1CS 4-Port USB C Hub - USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10Gbps) - 3x USB-A & 1x USB-C - Powered - Universal Power Adapter Included (HB31C3A1CS) - Newegg.com
(like first link but with power delivery up to 100w) StarTech.com HB31C3A1CPD3 4-Port USB-C Hub 10 Gbps with Power Delivery & 9.8" Attached Host Cable - 3x USB-A & 1x USB-C (HB31C3A1CPD3) - Newegg.com
 
1 usb type a + 1 usb type c + regular sata (for external drives)  + uhs card reader : Cable Matters 10Gbps USB C Multiport Adapter (USB C Hub) with USB-A, USB-C, MicroSD and UHS-II SD Card Reader, 2.5 3.5 Inch SATA Hard Drive and Optical Drive Reader - Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible - Newegg.com
 
and this is just a few picked fro mthe page here :  https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=usb+10g+hub&page=2
 
 
 
 
 
 

Okay, to answer your question:
It should work. USB 3.1 Gen 2 and USB 3.2 Gen 2 are the same.
 
Well, if you are up for a little DIY, this cable may interest you:
https://www.amazon.com/Front-Header-Type-C-Female-Extension/dp/B074Z4X3LS
 
Well, you will need the cable that I mentioned earlier, then just buy an ordinary USB-C hub.
 
Hmm... Well, I'm not sure if there USB 3.2 gen 2 type A cable extension...

There’s always double stick tape for mounting.  Has it’s own problems of course.  You could put the glass back on the front of your current if you could find a way to lengthen the mounting posts to let some air in around the edges of the glass.

Is a good landing. lol.
Thanks for the help though. Looks like just replacing the case with one I'll actually enjoy is the best solution. Just too many modifications to this case, and not enough space.

Awesome. Thanks again.

Normally the fan hub will report the RPM signal of the 1st fan.

Yes, this will work. The SATA connection will supply plenty of power for all fans. I used to run all my system fans off a cheap 10$ SATA fan splitter before switching to my commander pro.
 
You'll just be limited to setting 1 PWM value that will be set for all fans. If you set 50% PWM to the connector going to the fan hub, all fans will use the 50% PWM signal. You won't be able to control each individual fan.

Maybe someone has an explanation because to me this makes zero sense.
 
At present, EVGA is out on most power supplies, as is the story with Corsair. So naturally, most people go to places like Newegg or Amazon to find alternative matches. And usually, companies like EVGA also sell on Amazon to reach a broader customer base. Normally in the past, EVGA matches all prices, so if they sell it on their website, they keep that price on Amazon, but it seems like at the moment; they are massively inflating the prices.
 
I could see this if the seller were some 3rd party company and they were just trying to take advantage of the situation. But according to this listing, EVGA themself is the seller, but yet there's a x2.5+ price increase between sites.
 
So the question is; why.
 
See the links for the exact same product, both sold by EVGA:
 
Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0750-X1/dp/B005BE058W
 
EVGA Website:
https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-G3-0750-X1
 
Again, it just blows me away that this is EVGA themselves doing this. A 3rd party reseller from some small company, sure. Just makes no sense.

Only from Windows, if you go to that site on Linux, macOS, iOS or Android you only get the option to download an ISO.

If you don't have a disk for Win10; you can download the ISO on another machine from https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Then find a USB thumb drive that is an 8GB, and download https://rufus.ie/

(If you don't have a thumb drive, you can get one from a store like walmart for $10 or so for 8GB. They are extremely cheap these days).
 
Open Rufus, select the downloaded ISO, and it will make a bootable USB device that you will be able to plug into your desktop, and boot from when you boot up the machine. From there you can do the install.

If I'm not mistaken, no post code / beep means it is either power supply, motherboard, or CPU. I've had a few do this and it's always narrowed down to those three. So you'll have to check the basics.

Make sure the motherboard is properly mounted, screws aren't over-tight, maybe try reseating the CPU, and even apply some new thermal compound if you have some. The power supply you can't really do a bunch to other than attempting to reconnect the cables to the motherboard and see if somehow something is loose or not making proper connection.

Nah, AMD explained the issue when Zen 2 released. Intel & Zen 1/+ CPUs always reported sensor temps at x polling rate (don't remember the actual value sorry) but for Zen 2 AMD decreased that polling rate. This issue comes from apps which have the polling rate hardcoded into them, some apps apparently work by sitting and waiting for the sensor to send data then they update once the data is displayed but lots have the expected polling rate hard coded so every x ms they will ask the sensor for new data which is a problem since Zen 2 sends that data at a slower rate. According to AMD its not actually a false reading, what's happening is the app is causing the CPU additional work by constantly requesting data from it which really is making the temp of the CPU higher than it should be though its still not really accurate either since there's almost always going to be a delay between the sensor poll, the data being sent and the app updating due to the polling rates being out of sync.
 
NZXT Cam was one of the apps they specifically called out and warned users to avoid, there was a few more they said also do the same thing.
 
Edit - Also forgot to mention that these apps will also prevent Zen 2 from parking cores in the way its supposed to since they're constantly asking the CPU for information which further exacerbates the temp issues, especially at idle.

I don't really see this as being an issue. Now if your fans start reporting differences of like 200 RPM + then it may be a red flag. I've seen reports of this AIO's fan speeds being different by 50 or so depending on the software version you have installed. (Some versions of the software made the fans act funky and run at different speeds) and usually that was resolved by reverting back to an older version of the software.
 
But for 15 RPMs, I wouldn't sweat it.

Yeah, your memory being in single channel is slaughtering your machine. Get a 2nd matching dimm to enable dual channel.

Really slow memory, single channel, definitely hurting performance.

punchy fun closed back sets that I quite enjoy within that budget are the akg k371, mdr am2, dt 177x go, and meze 99 noire/classic. 
the akg k371 has a nice bunchy low end good build, nice luch mids. the lower treble can be a bit shouty and the treble has some nice clarity.
mdr1 am2 has a nice amount of bass nice clear headphones good mids friendly treble. 
dt 177x go has nice really deep Bass and is the focus of the headphone but it doesnt really sacrifice much of the other frequencies really easy to drive realy fun headphone. 
the mezes are just bass cannons but super fun I just recc these for the BASS
other pairs of headphone I think may be fitting are the ba nd o h6 nice warm relaxing sound with punchy but tight bass. 
the dt 770 bass that reaches deep, without sacrificing mids the treble can be  a bit hot for some. but great paired with na amp like the liquid spark
the mmx 300 IMO a nit overpriced but definitely a good headphone to consider. 
I do have other suggestions but they require more power than what an average non audiophile has 

I agree that the stock Wraith Stealth should be enough, and should also fit in both cases as it's fairly low profile. Otherwise, I'd personally go for the NH-L9a.
 
AIOs aren't necessarily better than air cooling heatsinks for overclocking. Dollar for dollar especially air coolers are much, much better, and until you get to 280mm and 360mm AIOs, you can get equivalent performance with air while having better reliability and potentially lower noise.

If you're asking from what ones you listed, I'd say the Noctua nh-L9a
 
Well yeah. I mean if you're going with a 120/140/240 they're a waste of money for the most part, but I've never bought one any smaller than 280mm. So to rephrase, watercooling is better once you get a nice radiator on the PC with good fans. I forget that people buy those little 120/140 ones and I've often wondered why, but I guess money and some cases are limited.

Air should do fine.
Liquid / AIO is good for overclocking, and is better at cooling in some aspects but you have to remember that water-cooling / AIO has more points of failure. So it's really up to you if you want to assume those risks. But by no means does that CPU need liquid cooling.
 
That CPU doesn't even need a high-end air cooler, stock would do fine for it.

Ah, well in that case. You could look for something similar to this EVGA: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=100-BR-0450-K1
450 Bronze 80+ would do pretty much what you need. Decent quality, for $49 USD / £39
 
You'll just have to find something similar elsewhere since the one on EVGA's site appears out of stock.

To add on to what Axeonelite said. If you don't have a lot of money, and are relying on your parents, I'd suggest one of two things. Look at getting some side-job to make a few bucks, or explain the situation to your parents if they are paying for it (and no, this doesn't mean trying to talk them into one of the most expensive ones).
 
You need to make sure you get a power supply from a reputable place. ( IE: Corsair, EVGA, Antec, NZXT, etc). And not some weird fishy off-brand power supply just because it's the cheapest. It doesn't mean that you need to buy a Platinum 80+, but this is something you'd be better researching. Because you need to find a reputable website to buy from (newegg, amazon, etc. unless you want to go the route of "used" and get one from ebay") and read reviews, etc.
 
Buying a cheap power-supply can cause a lot of issues, and you can potentially put your entire PC at risk if something goes wrong. As I said, no it doesn't mean "Hey dad, I need a Platinum 80+ multi-rail PSU". It just means be cautious. Because buying one of those PSUs from somewhere like Wish, aliexpress, could mean that you get something fake / NOT dependable.

When a hard drive dies is completely dependent on several factors. That "life expectancy" / hours is a ball-park figure they put on the drive based on lab testing, as a reference number mainly for warranty sake. There are hard drives that are well over x5 that amount of hours that are still going strong (but it also depends on luck). It's based on usage, ensuring you don't cause the case or anything to sustain an impact and make the heads on the hard drive jump around. The temps of the machine, and multiple other factors.
 
I have WD black drives that I own from when they were released that still perform great that I use for random projects.
 
SSDs, have a life expectancy based on the TBW. But even those are a "estimate", again, depending on what the drive is used for / how often you write to it. How cool the temps are in the machine, etc.
 
Treat your drives right and have proper cooling, and unless you ended up with some drive that had a fault in it prior, or a manufacturing defect, they should last a long long time.
 
For a more in-depth look, you can read https://www.extremetech.com/computing/170748-how-long-do-hard-drives-actually-live-for

Backup of a BIOS is mostly for "dual bios" motherboard, which I'm pretty sure this isn't the case.
With MSI, if the motherboard supports Flashback+ you can update the BIOS without a CPU using a USB stick plugged in the Flashback USB PORT.
 
Otherwise if you have a currently compatible CPU, you can either:
Download the latest bios for your motherboard from the website (https://msi.com/Motherboard/support/X470-GAMING-PRO#down-bios) Copy it to a clean USB, plug it in Reboot, use CTRL+F5 during POST, select "Yes" to reboot into flash mode Select the BIOS file, wait for the 100% and reboot. Done.  
Or use an MSI utility like MSI LIVE UPDATE and use it in Windows mode to download and update the BIOS for you.
 
Beware that power loss can brick or kill the mobo during a flash update.