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ubuntu-guru

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  1. I had the idea a bit ago, unfortunately with COVID, shipping has been slow. In short, I have two new fans I want to use to replace my AIO with. The NF14 3000RPM Noctua. By default, the two fans on the radiator connect to the AIO via a splitter cable, however, these new fans are rated for 0.55A each, which I'm sure is way more than the original fans push out. So I'm weary of having those fans connected. How do I set this up to where I can utilize the new fans on the radiator, as well as whatever control NZXT cam would need? Edit: I just ran this through my head. And I think the best bet would be to use a powered fan hub, hook the two fans into that and then connect it to the CPU mobo fan header since they're both the same RPM, etc. And then just let the NZXT kraken software control the pump.
  2. Now that you mention the K6, I swear that could have been the system I had as my first computer before the AMD 1GHz days. I don't remember the exact model, but it was somewhere below 500Mhz. Then i upgraded to a 800MHz AMD, and then the 1GHz AMD came out and that was the "oh my god I need it" chip. I've never had Intel; for some reason as a kid, our family always stuck with AMD because my cousin was a big computer guy and that's just what he chose. I know I had a duron for a bit, which may have been the 800MHz one. But the K6 rings a ton of bells. Literally had like a 40MB hard drive, Canon Bubblejet printer, and I spent my first few days figuring out downloads.com and installing the game "Black Knight Flight Sim" lol And yeah, the damn sales guys were all about making money. The bigger the sale, the better. Yeah it was quite weird. Just poofed. I've read up on the newer motherboards not supporting stuff like the Crucial, and want only NVMe drives since the 1st slot is associated to CPU, that's why I flipped the drive around in the slots on both motherboards. Just been wracking my brain on how it went so easily when it was fine after the format. But then again, I've never had an SSD just die. I guess I've been lucky up to this point. Hell, even my 850 Evo is still kicking and it's like 4 years old.
  3. Sadly no hah. My machine back then was a custom built AMD Athlon 1GHz, and a Voodoo 5 5500 AGP. I had a machine before that, but hell, I was knee-high to a grasshopper then, don't remember what it was. But the AMD one was in my teen days of Unreal Tournament. That machine just kept going and going.
  4. Yeah, After the switch to the x570 and it not working, I went back and tried it in the x470. A no-go in there too. So something happened to it after the migration at that first attempt to access it. lol. Man those Zip drives were an amazing thing back then. Everyone and their mother used one for something. Seems like hardware lasted forever then. Damn I feel old. hah
  5. So in short; I'm just going through a checklist in my brain. Had a Crucial MX500 m.2 for roughly a year that I was using in a MSI Gaming Plus x470. Worked fine. It was a drive that had probably 5TBW because it had a few games on it that always stayed the same. I decided to upgrade that machine to an x570 so I can get both machines prepped for Ryzen 4th CPUs. I popped the drive back in, and when I got into Windows, I saw the drive sitting here in the list of drive letters, all looked fine, and I just left it be for the day. The next day, I was going to wipe it, but first I wanted to go into it and just double check there was nothing I needed. As soon as I clicked on the drive, Windows Explorer froze, and then the drive disappeared. I did a reboot on the machine, and the drive was missing all together. So I did the whole turn off the machine, change m.2 slots, reboot, go into UEFI, and look at the Board Explorer. The drive wasn't listing as connected. Shut down, changed slots again, same deal. However, the light on the ssd was lit up so it was getting power. I also tried it in my x570 godlike, and the same deal, so I determined it was just dead. I did an RMA to Crucial since I was only a year into the 3 year warranty, but I'm sort of sitting here wondering what the heck happened. The drive was functioning perfect before the hardware switch. Are these drives prone to just dropping dead like that? Not really a HUGE concern on it missing, since I have x2 1TB 970 Plus evos, and a 1TB WD_Black 750, but if they send me a replacement, I'll use it for a Linux drive. I just don't want to boot the machine up one day and it be dead again.
  6. Friend called today, had me come over. His computer would randomly shut off and the LED light would blink on the tower. Happened at random, sometimes after 20 mins of being on, sometimes 30. In order to get it to turn back on, you had to turn off the PSU in the back / dc the power cable, plug it back in, and it would start. Took the PSU apart and the fan on it was completely gone (nano fan, which I've also never heard of). Even with force, the blades barely spin, so a bad bearing. I replaced the fan with a new one I had extra, and it's on for the moment. I'm not completely up to date on the technologies used for PSUs, so I want to confirm this. It's an EVGA 750 BQ 80+. Do PSUs have a sensor within them that will be able to monitor the temp of the PSU and then kill the power in order to prevent damage from heat. I'm sort of curious if this was a solution that fixed the issue, or if it was merely an additional sign of wear, and the issue will pop up again. As I said, unsure of what technologies are used and if the internal parts are monitored by the PSU. I know some have under/over volt protection, but temp sensors? If so, why can't we tap into those with software to read the temps of the PSU.
  7. Yeah, I use the 3.2 Type A ports. The type c one I'm referring to is a YubiKey 5 USB-C U2F. It came with thunderbolt and USB-C for that particular device, so I was just going to extend the port from the back of the case and utilize that. The board also supports a USB-C at the front, but my particular case doesn't have USB C, so I'd have to buy a PCI slot card to hook into that port on the MB and it would still put the port on the back of the case. The only other solution is to buy a USB C to USB A adapter that plugs onto the end of the YubiKey USB C port and convert it that way. But I figured since I have the USB C ports, I would just find a solution to actually utilize them in case I ever get any other devices that are USB C, I don't have to play the bunny game of getting up and reaching back there.
  8. Thanks. The SD slots and stuff are fine. I just figured it would be easy to find one if it didn't have all the other bells and whistles. And the USB C it comes with is a data port correct? The ones I've seen that do get included appear to be for charging only, and don't support data (usb drive, etc). And for the short cable, I assume I can just buy a USB C extension cable. It appears all I need for it to be comfortable is about 1 foot / 30 cm. Tower sits on my desk to my right.
  9. Wasn't sure where to post this... it deals with USB ports in general, but I've spent 3 days now trying to find the right thing, and my brain is about to explode. Here's a summary of what I need so I don't write paragraphs I have a USB 3.2 Type C port in the back of my computer I want a device (powered hub, etc), where I can plug into that port, but the hud itself would give me one working USB Type C port back on the hub. Don't really need them split, but it would be a bonus. But I also want a USB hub to give me a few USB ports on my desk. USB 3.0 Type A is fine. Mainly I just want a box on my desk so I don't have to go behind the computer and plug something in, or get up and plug it into the front of the case. So in short: - A hub that plugs into the USB 3.2 type C in the back that can sit on my desk - Gives me one USB Type C on the hub back to use since I plugged the hub into the one on the back of the case. - Has a few USB type A also for data. - x1 charging port is a bonus - Don't need the SD card ports, or HDMI ports some hubs have. Only need USB I don't care if the hub has to be usb 3.0 or 3.1, as long as it plugs into that USB 3.2 C in the back. I'll take the speed difference. 5Gbps is enough. I just want the comfort of having it on the desk so I can just reach and plug in. But also not lose the USB C in the back by plugging in the hub.
  10. So, before this motherboard; I had an MSI x470 which had no USB-C ports as far as I can remember; or I just didn't bother with them. My x570 godlike has apparently 2. One at the rear, and one for the front of the case. However, my case does not have a USB-C port, just USB 3.0. The question is. Since I have "support" for a USB 3.2 on the front. Is their a device I can purchase to run a cable from that front port connector, and plug it into.. say.. a hub? And the 2nd question; is their any type of HUB out there which will allow me to connect it into that USB 3.2 port in the back, and provide me with one functioning data port on the HUB. Not really splitting the USB 3.2, but a way to extend it onto the desk, and maybe give me back the 1 I used for connecting it into the back. Maybe a few USB 3.0 ports wouldn't hurt, but I don't need the crap with like HDMI, SD Card reader, etc. Overall I'm looking to get 2 USB-C ports. Utilize the one in the front (until I buy a new case that supports front-end USB-C ports), and then extend the one in the back to a device I can plug into on the desk and get data functionality (planning on using a Yubico YubiKey 5 USB-C device). Long winded, but I tried to make it simple, sorry. I looked around for a back plate PCI card to connect the pins into the motherboard, and give me a USB 3.2 C slot, but the ones I found I'm iffy if those are what really work (because a lot say 3.1), and no reviews, and from China. All these damn versions of USB are confusing after awhile. Edit. Would THIS work? https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Header-Type-C-Extension-Cable-15inch/dp/B07DV86Y4Z/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=USB+3.2+Type+A+PCIe&qid=1595916497&s=electronics&sr=1-17 It's USB 3.1 but it's type C, and I don't care about the 10Gbps vs 20Gbps. That isn't going to matter a bit with a YubiKey
  11. Is a good landing. lol. Thanks for the help though. Looks like just replacing the case with one I'll actually enjoy is the best solution. Just too many modifications to this case, and not enough space.
  12. Yeah, I would have tried to find alternative solutions for the glass, but like I said, I realized how "functional" the case was when I had to do that little project, which meant taking off a piece of metal that was 2 inches wide and roughly 10 inches tall. Luckily I made it look good after the sanding, but I really want a case that just has more room. After I put the GPU in, and then my NVMe extender card, there's really no room left at the bottom and cable management just looks horrible. So having spare room at the bottom with a new case will be nice. Plus the case is ready to mount the GPU the other way. Just a lesson learned I guess, to pay more attention to the fine details in a case.
  13. Yeah. I just like how clean they are. Unfortunately when I bought the one I'm using now, I didn't realize how closed off the front was. I had to remove the front glass to give airflow. Had I paid more attention, that would have been a deal breaker, but carelessness. This one is at least a full tower, and supports my E-ATX, so I won't have to break out my tools just to get it to fit. And I'll actually have hard drive bays I can utilize. Luckily I only have 1 HDD that is sitting at the bottom, but it would have been nice to actually use it, instead of removing it to fit the PSU.
  14. Yes, that case is confusing. Imagine how I felt and why I had to modify it so much. The first night I had it, I had to modify it to get the PSU in (it was a standard PSU size). I had to remove the hard drive mounting tray otherwise the PSU wouldn't fit. I was actually thinking over what my dislikes are in the case, and I'm poking around at the moment for an upgrade next month, and this one caught my eye. Even has the 2 slot side mounting for a GPU: https://www.amazon.com/Anidees-Crystal-Tempered-Support-Radiator/dp/B07NW42KN9/ref=sr_1_90?crid=3HQ78YTEK7X97&dchild=1&keywords=tempered+glass+pc+case&qid=1595041108&s=electronics&sprefix=Tempered+Glass%2Celectronics%2C218&sr=1-90
  15. Ah sorry. Stats for PC are in my footer. The case I use is: https://www.amazon.com/darkFlash-Mid-Tower-Computer-Tempered-Pre-Installed/dp/B07F1YSB9M/ref=sr_1_45?dchild=1&keywords=Deepcool+case&qid=1595040612&sr=8-45 I've debated the case though. It was nice on paper, but I feel it's too cramped. Not to mention, when I bought my mobo, it was E-ATX, and this particular case had a indentation shortly after the motherboard was to go inside, which made putting an E-ATX in it a pain. So I decided to use a dremel, and modify the case to open up that part of the case since it was just a sheet of material, sanded it down, repainted it, and it literally looks like it came from the factory, and it made cable management nice. However, it's really wonky in the front, so putting in a 280mm radiator makes the front have holes that cannot have anything else there, unless I decide to go ahead and start drilling case fan screw holes, etc. And I don't really like the case THAT much to start investing that amount of time. So potentially in the future, I'm going to be going to a full tower. But I'd assume if I can get this case to support vertical, then the full should. I was after a case like this, that was simple, clean, and this case pretty much stood out at me at the time.
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