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LMCrossfire

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System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 9 3900X
  • Motherboard
    X570 Asus TUF Gaming Plus (WIFI)
  • RAM
    32GB (2x16) G-Skill Trident Z Neo DDR4-3600
  • GPU
    EVGA RTX 2080 Super Black
  • Case
    Thermaltake S300
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 970 EVO SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750
  • Display(s)
    ASUS VG27AQ
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken X53 240mm AiO (front mounted rad intake), Corsair ML120(rear exhaust), 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM (top exhaust)
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Lite
  • Mouse
    Razer Mamba TE
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Razer Blade (2017)
  1. I know this didn't really get any support but in the event that anyone else ends up having this issue, I confirmed that none of the components are broken. I have narrowed the issue down to the PCIE 3.0 riser cable that my version of the Lian Li Q58 shipped with, when I plug the 3070TI directly into the motherboard the system boots up immediately with no issues. Luckily, I felt this might be the case and ordered their 200mm PCIE 4.0 riser so hopefully that will sort everything out. If it doesn't I might need to look at other riser cables and/or mobos. In the meantime, I also found reviews for the mobo saying that a BIOS update and setting the PCIE to 3.0 manually may help for those running it with the PCIE 3.0 riser in the Q58 or NZXT H1.
  2. System Details: Asrock Phantom Gaming B550 mini-ITX mobo Corsair SF750 PSU Ryzen 9 3900x 16GB 3200 DDR4 RAM Original GPU: EVGA 2080S, Attempted upgrade: ASUS ROG STRIX 3070TI and the initial obstacle to work with, the case: Lian Li Q58. OK. So I managed to fit the 3070TI in this tiny case, however, on my first attempt I fudged seating the GPU into the included riser cable its configured with. My first attempt at seating the 3070TI went horribly, it didn't seat properly and because of how small this case is, I had issues getting it out and my biggest concern is that I somehow fudged the riser's PCIE x16 slot, or worse, somehow fudged the PCIE connector on the GPU. I completely tore down the rig just to unseat the GPU and upon an admittedly rushed reassembly just to ensure everything was functioning, I WAS able to get splash screen for the mobo to appear but it froze and then went black and I haven't been able to get it to post completely or display. I didn't have a lot of time to attend to the matter before I had to go to work but I wanted to post this just for some troubleshooting tips I could be missing. This is my GF's system so I can test the 3070TI on my rig when I get more time. I can also test the 2080S to see if it has any issues since it was the OG part in the build and worked fine prior to my upgrade attempt. My glimmer of hope is that it did display the splash screen after taking a minute or two on the first attempted boot. GPU and MOBO lights all turn on and I do have fan spin. I'm connecting the GPU through DP on an Acer 27in monitor. It's times like this I wish this rig had an integrated graphics. Any advice is appreciated y'all! Thank you!
  3. I went with undervolting my GPU with some help from a guide by Optimum Tech that specifically covers the 2080 Super. Brought by GPU temps down to 75C. Thanks for the feedback!
  4. All fans are definitely working, case and GPU. The only things that I figure are affecting temps would be ambient air/access to airflow (limited space does have my PC on the floor and it's forever Summer here). Those or the case itself.
  5. I'm running an EVGA RTX 2080 Super Black Edition and in Borderlands 3 and CoD MW on High Settings at 1440p I am running up to 84 degrees just running the game. This is stock settings aside from the aggressive fan curve in Precision X1, I have my Kraken x53 AiO radiator mounted with its stock fans as intakes on the front of my case (Thermaltake S300) and I have a Corsair ML120 as rear exhaust and 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWMs as my top exhaust. I'm really just wondering if this is normal for the RTX 2080 Super to run under load. Here in So. Cal. it's 23C at 10pm.
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