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codefined

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Everything posted by codefined

  1. Currently, I have a beautiful home-made mechanical keyboard that's really lovely to type on but incredibly loud. When I'm streaming the keyboard is exceptionally annoying and it doesn't help I normally stream programming, where I'm typing most if not all of the time. Can anyone suggest a keyboard that is really quiet? Doesn't have to be mechanical, but would enjoy if it were nice to type on.
  2. Does this one: https://www.thomann.de/gb/presonus_eris_e3.5.htm Come with a DAC? Do I need to buy my own DAC? Can I just plug these into my computer and for them to 'work'?
  3. Some speakers I'm purchasing come with: Includes mini jack cable (TRS to TRS), 1.5 m, adapter cable (mini jack TRS to 2 x RCA), 1.5 m and connecting cable from left speaker to right speaker Can I plug any of these into my computer? It has the following 3.5mm jacks on the back: Line In (blue) Line Out (green) Mic In (Pink) Center / Subwoofer (Orange) Read Speakers (Black) If I can't, is there an adapter I can buy?
  4. If £200 isn't enough for a quality pair of speakers, what would be enough?
  5. Price Range: £<200. Country: UK. Use Case: Sitting behind computer to provide sound. I sit ~1m from computer. Currently use a pair of £10 speakers for my computer, but they are really crackly and awful. Looking to upgrade. I use them quite a lot, so willing to spend a fair amount of money on high quality speakers that will last.
  6. If I have lots of devices, I can connect them to a single speaker using a mixer. If I have lots of output devices (e.g. I have a speaker, a set of headphones and a 'party speaker'), I can pick between them using a 3.5mm hardware switch. Is there any tool that can let me connect / mix multiple inputs to multiple outputs? For instance, it'd be ideal if I can switch from my headphones to my speakers at a push of a button. And it would also be useful to be able to connect my Switch / Desktop to my headphones at the press of a button. There'll never be a situation where I'm wanting to use multiple output devices at once. At the moment, I have to plug in / plug out lots of wires to do this, which is a massive hassle. Any ideas on solutions? Here's a quick diagram:
  7. Looking for a laptop to play party games on (think Among Us, etc), browse the internet and similar. Hopefully quite cheap, £400 - £500. Some photo editting capability would be good. The ability to do some photo editting would be great.
  8. Probably somewhere in the £400 -> £800 range. Although could obviously be convinced if something is worth it for less money. The Google Pixel 4A at £350 does look really good for instance. I haven't heard of the A7 before, so will need to do more research into it. I have looked into the Samsung Galaxy S20 FE however and it is on my shortlist as being a very good phone!
  9. Buying a phone for a parent, not sure where to start as haven't looked for a phone for myself for years. I was wondering if you wonderful people could give me any ideas. Looking for: - Android - Large display size (parents can't see that well) - Large battery - Not too expensive. At the moment I'm looking probably between either a Google Pixel or a Samsung S series phone, but there are so many to choose from.
  10. The manual says it 'saves power', but how? What does it stop to get that power save?
  11. Thinking of buying a GS66 Stealth 10SGS which suggests a 15.6" FHD (1920x1080), 300Hz, IPS-Level screen. What does IPS-Level refer to here? Is it IPS? Is it TN? Can't seem to see much information about it online.
  12. Would really love to be able to check them out in a brick and mortar store, but unfortunately with Coronavirus that seems unlikely to happen anytime soon. Here's to hoping though
  13. The logitech C920 currently looks to be out of stock. Any suggestions for in-stock options?
  14. The keyboard is both coloured red and also appears to have red keycaps. So they are just 'linear'. They're still very loud when I type. If this is 'non-clicky' then I'd love to hear what the clicky ones sound like I do often type quite fast / hard. I normally aim for ~185 words per minute. It's possible I'm just hitting the keys far too hard.
  15. I'm debating buying a new keyboard and trying to pick the keycaps. At the moment I really love my current keycaps, which are clicky and made a satisfying noise whenever I tap on them. However, they're also annoying for anyone else in the room with me or whenever I'm talking with people online. Therefore, I'm thinking of getting a non-clicky variant, but am unsure if people have noticed a difference in feel? Currently, I'm using a Corsair K70 LUX Red.
  16. This screen seems to be highly recommended, but out of stock everywhere I look. Is there an equivalent screen with equivalents specs out there?
  17. Yeah, we have three desktops in completely opposite ends of the house to where the router is. We would either need to buy three repeaters or three powerlines to connect them all. We want to connect them with powerlines because it seems cheaper and more reliable. Glad to hear modern ones can cope with more than two devices on the same electrical circuit.
  18. Do they collide? Do we need to pick compatible ones? How does compatability work?
  19. This is why I'm somewhat considering Syncnex's, as it comes with the ability to undo various parts of their script. I'm also obviously intending to take a full snapshot of my computer before I do this. I can see why I'd be breaking several parts of the OS experience, but can't quite see how it opens it up to security issues. As far as I can tell, all of the items are either uninstalling packages or changing settings (specifically talking about the newer one here).
  20. Is it? My desktop came with: XBox Zune Music Candy Crush Wunderlist Facebook Minecraft Eclipse Manager Cortana Mixed Reality Holographic Technology Wifi Hotspot Finder None of which I need. It sends ~4MB of data to Microsoft every day. Has advertisements in Explorer and on the start menu and refuses to use anything other than Edge for some things. I don't want any of these things installed, especially because some of them start by default.
  21. It seems there are two sets of scripts out there to remove the bloatware from a default Windows installation: Syncnex's Windows 10 Debloater W4RH4WK's Debloat Windows 10 Has anyone run these before? Do they cause issues? Which one would you recommend? I've historically used W4RH4WK's but that has caused me issues on occassion (maybe 10% of the time), thinking that I might try the (newer) Syncnex's scripts.
  22. So, sorry, got a little lost along the way. If I wanted to run with a standard colour depth and dynamic range from an HDMI 2.0 connection, would it be able to reach 120Hz / 144Hz?
  23. For the first ~15 years of owning a computer, I used to have a UPS. Power cuts were frequent where I grew up and it made sense to provide a graceful shutdown to my computer instead of suddenly losing power. When I moved house, I moved to a more populated area which had far more stable electricity. My UPS moved with me, but broke down after half a year and I never got it replaced. I'm now looking to buy a new computer and am debating whether to buy a UPS or not. Whilst the power is stably available where I live, I'm worried about fluctuations in the grid causing damage to the components inside of my computer. Is it worth the investment of ~£100 - £150? It's a fraction of the cost of the components in my computer. I can't really quantify the risks around it, so was wondering if you guys could help For clarification, I'm not looking for a UPS that can provide long term battery life to my computer (which is likely going to be hard given I run at ~600 watts with a maximum of 850 watts), I'm more looking at whether a UPS can provide a more stable electricity supply and whether the extra minute or power will benefit in allowing the computer to shut down cleanly.
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