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Dimchez

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    Ruthless Dimchez#3785

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Macedonia
  • Interests
    Design & Video Games.
  • Occupation
    Student

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  • CPU
    Intel i7-8550U 4.0GHz
  • RAM
    8GB DDR4, 2400 MHz
  • GPU
    AMD Radeon 530 (4GB GDDR5)
  • Laptop
    Dell Inspiron 5570

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  1. Thanks for the help anyhow, I appreciate it tons! For anyone reading this, in case they know more, I've succesfully connected the disk to a windows laptop, formatted it to exFat, and everything worked correctly, it recognized it on my MacBook, but as soon as I tried to erase the exFat format so I can create Mac OS Journaled it failed again. Any help would be appreciated!
  2. I've tried restarting with every combination from the battery thing, and a lot of other stuff. What I've done is I went into the Terminal in Recovery mode, and I've copied some of my most important files and folders with basic bash commands like "cp". Then I went into the Disk Utility, and did Erase on it, but it gave me an error. I went into regular mode, tried erasing again, and I got this: Now the disk cannot even be accessed ://
  3. I've went over this - first I went into recovery mode as they suggested and did the first aid on the disk - surprisingly there it did not disconnect at all - and I even had time to do the first aid test twice - had 0 problems. As soon as I am back into regular mode, connect it - wait 15 seconds & it disconnects itself being unusable all the time - the files that were stopped mid-copying are still there just greyed out, if it helps the case: About the Energy Saver, it's not present in Sonoma, but I found it under battery, I tried doing that but it doesn't work ://
  4. It shows inside Disk Utility for the duration of the time before it disconnects itself. I'll try connecting it to another laptop tomorrow, as I don't have one at my disposal right now - will be kind of hard though as most of my friends have a Windows laptop, and this is Mac OS Extended filesystem ://
  5. Hi, I have bought HP P500 external SSD a couple of month back, and I've formatted it for usage on macOS with the Mac OS Extended (Journaled) file system. As of this morning when I tried copying a file from my internal SSD to it, it disconnected mid-copying. Ever since then I cannot open a single file on my external SSD, because when I reconnect it, it shows up, I'm able to open a folder for the next 2 seconds, and then it's unusable, any folder I try opening is stuck at loading, and after a little bit of that it disconnects the SSD like the picture shown below (I'm pretty sure an event of loading a specific thing triggers this, and after that happens anything becomes unusable - I can even record what happens if someone is interested to help: The cycle continues - I reconnect the SSD, I'm able to open any folder if I click fast enough - that folder is loaded, but then nothing happens after that - it just disconnects after a bit. Even if I don't try to open a folder after a while it disconnects itself. Need any type of help I can get - thanks in advance!
  6. Hi, I've somehow forgotten the passcode to my iPhone, and I cannot reset the phone correctly as it keeps exiting recovery mode and reboots to the iPhone unavailable screen. I've connected it to my MacBook, successfully started the process when it's like this: My iPhone in the middle of downloading this randomly restarts and it boots normally - then I lose the progress that I've made in downloading this, and if I try to reconnect the phone with the cable to my MacBook it doesn't even show me the progress - the bar just keeps reloading. I have to restart my macbook, and start from 0 all over again - any help?
  7. I had a similar problem with BSOD on a new laptop, what I'd suggest doing is exactly what Chris said, and when you have the fresh new installation of Windows open Windows Update. Let it go through every single update, and when you're certain it downloaded every single update there is at that moment, download Display Driver Uninstaller (extract it), and your respective latest GPU driver from NVIDIA/AMD. When you have both downloaded, disconnect yourself from the internet and follow the next steps: 1. Press Windows+R and type msconfig there. 2. Go to the Boot tab, and tick the "Safe boot" option. It's going to ask you if you want to restart, press yes. 3. Launch DDU, select GPU and your GPU (AMD or NVIDIA, depending on what you have). 4. Repeat step one, but this time untick safe boot and exit without restart. 5. Select clean and restart. 6. After your PC restarts, just install the driver that you downloaded beforehand, and your problem should be solved.
  8. The problem lied in the Realtek Audio Console, in case anyone comes into contact with this exact problem - try switching from headphones to headset and vice versa, it might be the solution you're looking for.
  9. Hey, I've had a Dell laptop a couple years back (I think it was a Dell Inspiron 5570), and I had the exact problem. It had an AMD Radeon 530 Graphics card with an intel i7 8th generation. I tried the Dell forums, and after countless messing around this is what seems to have helped me - I'll check if I can dig up some more, but this is what I did. I'll see if I can dig up something else that I did, but in the meanwhile you can try this and see how it goes.
  10. Hi, I've recently acquired a Gigabyte G5 GE laptop - and the microphone on my headphones hasn't been working even though the ports are compatible fully (the headphones have one 3.5mm jack, same as the port on my laptop). I've downloaded the official audio drivers from the Gigabyte website. I've tested the headphones with another laptop, and the mic seems to be working just fine. I went to sound settings -> recording, where I've seen that the stereo mix in the recording tab picks up the playback audio from my friend's voice in the discord call, but the microphone audio doesn't move. Further up in properties, it's set to 100%, and even there's a volume boost of around 20dB, but no difference, it doesn't pick up anything. I've attached a screenshot of the recording tab if it's of any help. Any ideas for solutions? Thanks in advance.
  11. Hey, I want to start learning Software Development & have recently picked up a MacBook for the first time (was using Windows prior to this basically my whole life). I've followed Alex Ziskind's tutorial on how to set it up for software development, and while installing HomeBrew in the Terminal I've ran the following command twice by mistake : (echo; echo 'eval "$(/opt/homebrew/bin/brew shellenv)"') >> /Users/dimc/.zprofile Would this create any problems for me in the future? I've tried fixing it by accessing it with "nano .zprofile", deleting the duplicate line, and then saving, but I'm not sure if that's the right way to fix it. Thanks in advance!
  12. Hi, I've recently bought a new laptop (towards the end of August) - an HP Pavillion with the following specifications: Intel® Core™ i5-10300H Processor (8M Cache, up to 4.50 GHz) 8GB DDR4 1DM 2933 512 GB PCIe® NVMe™ M.2 SSD NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650Ti 4GB The laptop is supposed to be getting around 200FPS when Gaming For reference the same laptop: But in my case it has micro-stutters (drops to around 30 for like a brief second) and it reaches lower FPS than it should. I have a cooler since I bought the laptop at max fan speed, and the fans on the laptop are set to always on in the BIOS. I'm about to do a reinstall of my Operative System and I'm looking for any tips to get a good mid-ground on FPS that doesn't fall below 60 FPS but it doesn't make the GPU Temperature rise to 90. Right now while it's gaming with the FPS locked on 60 the temperature in the task manager reaches 50ish degrees, although I'm not sure if those stats are accurate since it's not MSI Afterburner. Thanks in advance, any tip is welcome.
  13. The problem is now solved, here's the FIX taken from a HP Forum - turns out it was the Bang & Olufsen compression problem that was causing this: Go to Windows Device Manager > Sound, video and game controllers section. In the list of audio device drivers, look for Realtek High Definition Audio. This is the device driver for BeatsAudio. Right-click and select Disable. The downward arrow displays on this driver, indicating it is disabled. (NOTE: At this point, you won’t be able to play any music files.) Right-click and select Update Driver Software. Select Browse my computer for driver software. Select Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer. You should see a window that says Select the device driver you want to install for this hardware. NOTE: If you see a window that says something like This is the best driver for this device, exit the window and repeat steps 4, 5, and 6. In the Model box, highlight High Definition Audio Device (this is the substitute audio device driver) and click Next. At the Update Driver Warning window, click Yes. You should see a confirmation window with High Definition Audio Device displayed. Click Close. In the list of audio device drivers in the Sound, video and game controllers section, you’ll notice that the High Definition Audio Device now displays instead ofRealtek High Definition Audio. At the prompt to reboot, click Yes.
  14. Hey, thanks for the reply. I've been to the Realtek's site before, but there's something wrong with their downloads, as when I start a download the ETA is like 7 hours for the download (my internet speed is great everywhere else though).
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