fordy_rounds

Those might be VRM temps, or somewhere else on the MB (and they won't be affected by your CPU cooler). OHM reports a whole bunch of temps. Scroll down some, usually CPU core temps are going to be down under the "AMD Ryzen 5 2600" section.

This is an excellent point. People don't think about distance, but it definitely matters. Electric signals propagate at (approximately) the speed of light. Now, that's super fast, but so are modern clock speeds. Light travels at approximately 300e6 m/s. If your GPU is clocked at 2,000MHz (picked a semi-average value that's a round number for easier math), then each clock cycle is 1/(2e9) seconds, or .5e-9 seconds. Multiply that time by the speed and you get the max distance that can be traversed in that time: .5e-9 s * 300e6 m/s = 150e-3 m, or 15cm (about 6 inches.) That means that any distance over 6 inches, including any roundabout wiring that is likely to happen on a crowded motherboard, will require an extra clock two clock cycles per request (one for the request, and one for the response). Now that's ideal world.... real world, there's additional resistance from all the connectors along the way, and you won't actually get 15cm distance. Additionally, a certain amount of the clock cycle is reserved for setup time and latching time, as well as time to propagate through any non-latched encoding/decoding logic along the way, plus more modern GPUs are faster than 2000MHz, and the reality is that they'd be doing well to get 5cm or so—and I doubt there are any motherboards out there that can guarantee the DIMM slots are that close to the PCIe slots. Distance matters, and the closer your RAM is, the better.

Sounds like maybe the power distribution circuitry might be broken (i.e. the circuitry from plug to battery and the rest of the PC). If you bought it just days ago, I'd take it back to the store or RMA it.

It's going to depend a lot on the specific case. Not all mesh cases are created equal, and not all non-mesh cases are created equal. Do you have specific cases you're looking at?

Well, what are the options (speeds and prices)?

The best APU for the DeskMini is the Ryzen 5 3400G with its Vega 11 graphics. If that's not good enough graphics, you'll need to move to a more standard mini-ITX motherboard and case which will support a dGPU.

Not speaking for OP here, but some people like the smaller size of micro-ATX. Edit: I noticed OP is using a full ATX case, so maybe his reason is just cost, and not size.

It sounds like maybe you want RAID 1+0 aka RAID 10. It does stripe, but it also mirrors, so you can fault a drive without losing the entire array. It does cut your capacity in half due to the mirroring, and requires a minimum of 4 drives.

When we talk about power and computers, there's two meanings of the word power: electricity/energy used (i.e. 450W of power) and processing/graphics power (a.k.a. performance—when someone talks about a "powerful" PC, this is usually what they mean). So, all your peripherals might take a lot of power/energy, but they're not going to take much power/performance. The keyboard takes no additional performance vs. using the laptop's keyboard; the same OS subroutine that watches for keystrokes runs, regardless of how many sources there may be. Same thing goes for the mouse; mouse and touchpad use the same OS hooks, and it doesn't matter how many there are (and the mouse's receiver handles all the wireless protocol, your CPU doesn't even know it's wireless. Even if it's Bluetooth, the BT chip handles it, so again, no impact on performance). The monitor could affect graphics performance slightly, but only if you're using it as a dual-monitor setup, and even then, unless you have a really bad GPU or are running 3D graphics in both screens, it probably won't be noticeable. The cooling pad is probably energy-only, with literally zero effect on performance (and actually potentially helping performance because it keeps the CPU/GPU a little cooler). As for the effect on power/energy, it still doesn't make much difference. The monitor is probably self-powered (HDMI doesn't support power delivery, as far as I know), so it consumes no power from your laptop. The keyboard and the mouse dongle take a little bit, but it's not very much. The cooler might take some, but it's probably 1A/5W at most (and likely less than that). So if you ran on battery, you might see a very slight decrease in battery life, but it wouldn't be very noticeable.

Did some searching, found this dell forum post. In summary, it looks like they're using standard colors in a non-standard order. So as long as you splice new ground to Dell black, and new 12V to Dell red (leave the new sense un-spliced; since it's a signal from the fan, it's best to only have one signal going to the MB), you should be ok. Note that the new fan, based on its 3-pin connector is not PWM, so it'll just run at constant (full) speed. If done properly, it shouldn't produce any error, as all you'll be doing is drawing a little more power.

The idea is that you poke the connector end of your headphones through the hole, so that you can carry your music device inside the bag but have the cable come through to headphones in/on your ears.

I don't remember what it's called, but some Googling could probably find it—there's an android app (with a PC companion) to show PC stats including temperatures, etc. You could get a cheap Android phone from your local retailer (think big box store, not phone shop—you don't want to buy a service plan with it, just the phone itself), then either run its charging cable out the back to a USB port or get an internal-to-external USB adapter to plug it in inside the case.

I think your first link is backwards from what OP wants. The ebay link could work, though, assuming he has another sata power cable. A little more expensive option might be this https://www.moddiy.com/products/Corsair-CX750M-6-Pin-to-SATA-Power-Single-Sleeved-Modular-Cable-20cm.html

There are 2.0 to 3.0 adapters, and 3.0 to C adapters, and you could maybe? daisy chain them. A better solution, though perhaps not the cheapest (these were about $60 when they were available, iirc), would be to get a PCIe card to give you the right header. Unfortunately that one from SilverStone is the only one I've found, and it's out of stock...... Edit: I also just realized you're on a mITX board. So the PCIe card is actually terrible advice. Looks like you might have to try daisy-chaining (making your C port 2.0), or downgrade your 3.0 to 2.0 and use the 3.0 header for the C.

Right. That's because the MoBo supports NVMe drives (as long as the CPU does). But the CPU doesn't. So it's not the Mobo that's the weak link, it's the CPU, which doesn't support NVMe, as shown in the table that @paddy-stone posted: As far as I can tell, mode is determined automatically by the type of drive you plug in. So if you get a SATA M.2 drive, it should work, but the 3000G won't work with any NVMe drive. Note that this will be true for any motherboard that you put a 3000G into, unless they run the M.2 off of chipset lanes instead of CPU lanes (but then you probably won't get any speed benefit from it)—the 3000G just doesn't have enough lanes to split any off for storage.

Using an adapter like this, make certain that you get an NVMe drive. This won't support a SATA M.2 drive, only NVMe.

The Kingston A2000 is also NVMe. As for why it won't boot, it's likely that the CPU/BIOS thinks the drive is a graphics card (since it doesn't support NVMe) and that's causing issues. Looks like you'll need to get a SATA M.2 drive if you want to use M.2 here.

Yeah. If I had a GPU I'd probably do it. If you're looking more at the 3200G budget level and want to go AMD, I'd suggest the 3100 or (for $20 more) 3300X. They're much better processors, at similar cost because they don't have the iGPU.

That's a pretty good deal. However, you're comparing it to the 3200G, which has an integrated GPU, while the 9100F does not. If you don't already have a GPU (or budget for one), you'll be better off springing for the 3200G. (FWIW, that's what I'm looking at pulling the trigger on next week, and it's just shy of $200 for the 3200G, a B450 mobo, and 8GB RAM.)

It's easy to misunderstand. Sexing cables takes a bit of skill, especially when you have connectors where the shroud seems female/male but the pins are male/female, as Molex is (see also coaxial F-connectors, PSU AC supply connector, etc.) When it comes to power cables, usually the source is female and the sink is male (this is done intentionally to reduce the chances of touching live wires), and Molex is no exception, although its voltages are low enough to not matter.

Looks like PSU has female molex, not male. (It's determined by the pins, not the plastic. Sure, the plastic goes inside the other, but the pins are female.) But more importantly for OP, while it's not shown well in the photo, it looks like this controller has a male-to-female pass-through. I've seen this on other devices; the idea is that you can plug more than one device into a single PSU molex connector—you'd plug this into the PSU cable, then plug some other device into the back (female) side of this. Not saying that's a good idea to do, but that's why it's designed this way. So you don't need any adapter.

Probably unpopular answer, you could buy a CPU cooler that uses those clips. But that is extra expense, the other answers are better.

Ok. Assuming it's DDR4, another 8GB stick of RAM is approximately 40-60 euros (though it can be higher for the really fancy stuff). If you do RAM, I'd recommend finding the same brand and speed as what you currently have (to make it a matching set), or spending a little more to just get a matching set and completely replace your current stick. A 500GB SSD starts at 73 euros, though you might want to spend a little more than that for better quality. (You could also do a smaller SSD, though I don't recommend going smaller than 250GB.) I recommend using nl.pcpartpicker.com to help familiarize yourself with how much parts will cost and what fits your budget.

What's your location and budget? Neither of those are likely to be bank-breakers, so you could probably do both.

So, I'm seriously considering changing up my upgrade order in a way that basically scraps the old rig as close to right away as possible. That means getting motherboard, APU (not CPU), and RAM all at once, then later adding the GPU (likely after adding an SSD). But that leaves me with some choices. Do I go with a cheap APU, knowing that I'm likely to upgrade it soon-ish? If I do that, I'd get the Athlon 3000G, which I can get as soon as next week, assuming current prices hold. However, it might be 2-3 years before I can upgrade, and I'm not sure I want to be stuck with only 2C/4T for that long. If I wait another month (July), I can afford Ryzen 3 3200G. That's a little bit more tolerable at 4C/4T, and better graphics to tide me over until I add a GPU. If I wait until August, I can afford Ryzen 5 3400G, 4C/8T, and even better graphics. In all three cases, I plan to pair it with 16G of RAM, probably at 3000MHz (I know the Ryzen APUs only support up to 2966 anyway, so anything faster than 3000 is pointless; I haven't looked at that with the 3000G). Alternatively, I could do only 8G of RAM with the 3200G in June, and 3400G in July, but it'd likely be a single 8G stick, which isn't ideal (or 2x4 at only 2400MHz). I could probably justify a RAM upgrade earlier than a full CPU upgrade, though. So, really, I'm trading time for performance here, and it's not an easy decision. Any recommendations?