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About fordy_rounds

  • Title


  • CPU
    Athlon II X2 220
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    3GB (1x1GB, 1x2GB) DDR3
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce GT430
  • Case
    SilverStone PS15 White
  • Storage
    WD Blue 500GB 2.5" SSD, Seagate 500GB 2.5" HDD
  • PSU
    Enermax RevoBron 500
  • Display(s)
    Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
  • Keyboard
    HP KB-0316
  • Mouse
    Gateway M-U0027-O
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home
  • Laptop
    Lenovo IdeaPad 110-15IBR

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  1. I'm using the Silverstone PS15 right now. It's got a mesh front and top, with a separate bottom intake for the PSU. Fits 3x2.5" drives and one either 2.5 or 3.5 (though I'm using that space as a cable basement instead of a drive bay). Has a tempered glass side panel, and comes in black or white. https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Micro-ATX-Computer-PS15B-G/dp/B07N1HL5PR/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ps15&qid=1596666679&sr=8-4 (comes only with a rear exhaust fan) or https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-SST-PS15B-RGB-Micro-ATX-PS15B-RGB/dp/B07SNFQVYS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ps15&qid=1596666719&sr=8-2 (with extra (RGB) fans).
  2. Good luck with this. The USB standard only allows one device to be host at a time. A hub that supports two hosts would be out of standard, and could lead to all sorts of collisions and possibly data corruption. I don't recommend this. The right solution here, as suggested by @Windows7ge, is to connect the HDD to just one computer, then share it over the network. It might run slower on the secondary PC, though, so be aware of that (especially if you are wirelessly networked). On the other hand, if it's spinning disk, it's likely to be slower than your LAN speeds anyway....
  3. Yeah, the 570 isn't going to handle 4K well. It's not about the VRAM (8GB is plenty), it's about the GPU itself. As stated above, 4K has 9x the pixels of 720p. That means that your GPU has to do somewhere around 9 times the work to generate everything. If it's not up to the challenge, of course it's going to slow down. You need a card with a better GPU (e.g. AMD 5700XT, Nvidia 2070 or better); if it has more VRAM that's a bonus, but you don't need it. A short term solution is to run your games at 1080p. But then you're not using the full potential of the screen, so I don't recommend that in the long run (because it means you overbought on your screen).
  4. That probably depends on which pins and, if they are bent, how much (i.e. is it enough to short pins together). For example, there are lots of ground pins; if one of them is gone, it's no big deal, it can ground elsewhere. But if you're missing a data pin, or shorting pins together, you could be SOL.
  5. Well, the GT 430 came in Saturday. I got it plugged in, installed drivers, and it works! This is, despite being a card from 2010, light-years ahead of the integrated graphics. I'm very happy with it. Some pics: Started out by re-casing the motherboard, since I already had the PSU cables loosely run through the PS15. Unboxing the 1650 Super. And installed. Too bad it wasn't compatible. The $15 GT 430. The two cards, for comparison. Styles sure have changed. Finally, the working GT 430 installed. This is how things are going to stay for a little while. The cable management is messy; I can't plug in the USB 3 cable into this motherboard, since there's no header for it, and I don't want to zip tie all the cables into place until I have my final parts, in case header locations are different. I ran Civilization 5 on medium-high settings, and got about 31FPS in normal mode. (By comparison, I was getting 20 in strategic mode and 1ish on normal mode, all on lowest settings, on the integrated carp.) I ran Civ 6 on lowest settings (I'm technically a little under spec for CPU, GPU, and system RAM) and got 30FPS. I ran Hue (admittedly not a graphically intense game, but an interesting little platformer) and got over 100FPS (though anything over 59 is overkill, since my monitor's refresh rate is 59Hz...). I'm really happy with this, and can't wait to see how the much better, much more modern 1650 Super will do. About that.... I planned to return the 1650 Super and use the money to get my next motherboard, RAM, and CPU, which I would then use with the 430 for a few months until I could afford the better GPU again. Unfortunately, between restocking fees and shipping, I realized I'd lose about $45 if I did so. I decided that wasn't worth it, so it's going to sit on my shelf for a few months. I went ahead and submitted for a rebate on it, so that decision is irreversible.
  6. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor $99.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $72.99 @ Best Buy Memory Kingston HyperX Fury 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 CL16 Memory Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 1 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive $47.99 @ Amazon Case NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.99 @ Best Buy Power Supply Thermaltake Smart 500 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply $50.99 @ B&H Custom Wigbow 1 Pack - 2 Grams Thermal Compound Paste, Carbon Based High Performance heatsink Paste, Thermal Compound CPU for all Cooler computer PC Fan $6.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $348.94 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-27 15:23 EDT-0400 Converted it to PCPP on behalf of OP. OP: I wouldn't call these good parts, but they're not terrible. Within a $450 budget still, here's what I'd do: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3400G 3.7 GHz Quad-Core Processor $149.88 @ Amazon Motherboard Gigabyte B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $72.99 @ Best Buy Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 CL15 Memory $37.99 @ Newegg Storage Silicon Power A55 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $48.99 @ Amazon Case NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.99 @ Best Buy Power Supply Thermaltake Smart 500 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply $50.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $430.83 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-27 15:27 EDT-0400 Changes I made: I upgraded you from the 3200G (4C4T, Vega 8 graphics) to the 3400G (4C8T, Vega 11 graphics) for better performance. I kept your RAM at 8G, but swapped a single channel to stick to a pair for faster dual-channel use. I dropped your storage down to a half-terabyte (still plenty for your stated use case) but upgraded it to SSD. As a person who recently bought their first SSD, I can tell you, it makes a world of a difference. Nobody should have their boot drive on spinning disk in 2020. If you still want a terabyte, you can add another half-terabyte of HDD for around $25. I got rid of the thermal paste completely. You don't need it. The 3400G's stock cooler (and pretty much all stock coolers) comes with thermal paste pre-applied, and it's plenty, you don't need more. If you buy another cooler later on, consider getting some at that point (but first make sure the cooler doesn't come with it pre-applied. No sense spending money you don't need to.)
  7. It should be, though I don't recommend overclocking with it. But for stock settings, 4-pin is just fine. Just be sure to check the MB manual for where to connect it. Some are picky about which part of the 8-pin connector gets used for 4-pin.
  8. Well, not content to just wait it out a few more months, I "sprung" for a $15 used EVGA GT 430 1GB. It's from 2010, the EL1358G is from 2010-11, so I'm hoping that, being from the same era, they'll work together. It's not as large of an upgrade as the 1650 Super, but it's still a definite step up from the integrated carp, and it'll get me by for a few months. I will return and report once it comes.
  9. Thanks! Unfortunately it didn't work. I think it's just this motherboard/bios is too old.
  10. Well, the GPU still isn't working. I suspect it just isn't supported by the motherboard, and there's probably nothing I can do about it. I posted about it in the troubleshooting board, but have only gotten one response. I did go ahead and splurge on the SSD, though, picked up a WD Blue 500GB (2.5") for $70 (tax included) at Walmart. Yes, there's cheaper half-terabyte drives out there, but I wanted it now as opposed to waiting for shipping.
  11. Describe the problem: I recently got a GTX 1650 Super that I'm attempting to make work with a rather old system (see specs below) for the next 4-ish months until I can afford to update the MB/CPU/RAM. I plugged it in, and it works as "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter," but then when I install the latest drivers from Nvidia, the screen goes black as soon as the driver gets loaded. When I restart the computer, it shows video at first (and it's POST-ing just fine), shows the Windows logo, then goes black (presumably when the video drivers get loaded). I did a clean driver install in safe mode and made sure it got all the way through the install; upon reboot to standard mode, same thing, black screen during boot. Operating system: Windows 10 Home, 64-bit (unlicensed) System specs: CPU: Athlon II X2 220 Motherboard: EL1358G (OEM (eMachines) motherboard, recased from its SFF into a micro-ATX case) RAM: 3GB (1x1GB, 1x2GB) DDR3-1600 GPU: EVGA GTX 1650 Super SC Ultra Storage: WD Blue 500GB SATA SSD (current OS drive) Storage: Seagate 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM HDD PSU: Enermax RevoBron 500W Display: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW BIOS version: P01.B4. It was on P01.B0, and I flashed the update tonight as part of my troubleshooting. Unfortunately, there are no error messages/screenshots; it just goes black. Looking at the device manager in Safe Mode it certainly looks like the drivers installed correctly, so this may just be the problem with using an old motherboard. I haven't tried DDU yet, but I did a clean install of Windows on the SSD today (because I bought the SSD today), so there shouldn't be any old drivers. I have manually uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers a few times, with no success. Every time I reinstall the driver, I get a black screen during the install (if in normal mode) or during boot (if in safe mode).
  12. GPU came yesterday. Sorry, I don't have any pictures yet. I recased everything because the new PSU was already in the new case with cables preliminarily run, and I didn't want to have to undo all that. I verified that everything still booted and worked fine after the recase. Then I plugged in the GPU, unplugged the VGA cable (from the MB) and plugged in an HDMI cable (from the GPU, but going to the same monitor). Booted it up, and it worked! But the resolution was terrible. Of course it was, I didn't have the drivers installed yet, so it was running as "Windows Basic Display Adapter." Downloaded the drivers and set them to installing; because of my slow-as-hell HDD, it was taking too long, and I had to go to bed. Woke up in the morning, woke up the computer, and it didn't wake up right. Ended up doing a force reboot. And now, I get video briefly—I see the BIOS logo and the Windows logo, then, presumably when it loads the graphics drivers, everything goes black. And the VGA does nothing either, presumably because Windows is auto-disabling the iGPU in favor of the AIB, which would be great if it worked.... But I had to get to work today, so I haven't been able to spend a lot of time troubleshooting. I wonder if something went wrong with the install when I wasn't looking (seems likely), so my first step tonight/this weekend will be to unplug the card, boot it up on VGA, and uninstall/reinstall the drivers. (I'm also considering jumping into an SSD, although that could delay my MB/RAM/CPU purchase by another month, and I'm already looking at September or October....)
  13. Is the controller a USB 1.0 device? (Some, especially older, peripherals are—even some things like printers, if they didn't need 2.0 speeds or pre-date 2.0, they went with 1.0.) I ask, because Windows recently had an update where they disabled the use of 1.0 devices on 3.0 ports. So the controller might need to be plugged into a 2.0 port, even if that's inconveniently on the back of the PC.
  14. I've thought about that; I know the Nvidia 3000 series are on the way, but I've no idea what budgets they'll be in (i.e., they might just be too expensive). I admit I don't really know what's coming on the AMD side, but again, the question arises of whether it'll be in my budget or not. (FWIW, I spent ~$190 including tax on an EVGA 1650 Super; that's basically the top of my budget.) And I'm not sure what revision I'm on currently (and I'm not at home to check) but there's only one version on the eMachines website for the EL1358G, so it's probably that one. (I'll double check that tonight.) Also, I'm not OP, and should probably stop hijacking their thread....
  15. Yep, this MB definitely has a legacy BIOS; the UEFI thing is one of my main concerns, but there's just so little info out there about it, my research failed me. Yeah, I've already checked for BIOS updates, there are none. My card comes today. I figure I'll try it; if it works that's awesome, but worst case is it sits on my shelf for a few months until I can get a new MB/CPU/RAM. So, no big loss, other than it being a little less usable time on the warranty.