Bobbysixjp

It will perform the same as any other 4070. So just look up reviews of any 4070 and that’s how it will perform. Galax is a good enough brand. 

I mean that's not really the case though. You can close the gap with overclocking DDR4 but even when looking at benchmarks with very high overclocked ram there is a difference between ddr4 and ddr5 unless you are running your ddr5 at a very low speed like base speed. Also cpu performance is pretty important too because the slower the cpu the less you will see the difference. I mean you see bigger uplifts in performance with 13th gen than you do 12th gen tbh. 

From what I've seen so far, going with DDR5 can already provide a small performance uplift in some games. Though that doesn't mean you can't still get good enough performance with DDR4.
 
Personally I would worry about GPU first, CPU second and RAM last of all when it comes to upgrading my machine. I'll only upgrade the GPU if there's a meaningful performance uplift and the games I want to play are unplayable otherwise. I'll upgrade the CPU if it would be a limiting factor for the GPU. And RAM if it becomes a limiting factor for the CPU in turn.

Hard to tell since there are no benchmarks yet. Wait for the CPU to come out and benchmarks to appear. But it's likely going to be a minor upgrade over a 13600K, maybe a few percent faster. Unless you're currently limited by CPU performance, it'll probably do little to nothing. In most cases the GPU is a more important factor for gaming. Having more threads might help in some games, others might not benefit at all.

The 4070Ti equals or beats the 3090Ti but at a much lower power draw. It also has DLSS3 and frame generation. Go for the newer card. 

This is not correct - undervolting can lead to lower power usage and lower temperatures. I have undervolted my 3080 to use about 70 watts less for almost the same performance. This also results in less heat as well. So it is definitely worth a try. 

Both will perform exactly the same. Buy whichever is cheaper/has the better warranty/looks nicer in your case. 

Totally dont blame you there man.

Well at least you know it’s not just your card and there’s probably nothing you can do about it. Either live with it or sell it and get a card with a higher power limit. 

I’m not an expert but it could be to allow product segmentation or the components are not up higher power delivery (to save money). It could also be the silicon is not the best quality so is unable to reach higher frequencys not matter how much power you add. 
Have a look at this video which ranks the 3080s. It really shows that not all 3080s are equal in terms of power, cooling, etc. 
 

Ok I can understand your disappointment at the power limit but trust me when I say even if you could reach 370 W you wouldn’t notice much of difference, if any. Here’s an example why: I tested two 3080 Tis - one with a limit of 365 W and the other 440 W. While gaming the difference was maybe a few FPS (like 150 vs 145 FPS) but that came with 80 W of extra power and therefore extra heat. For an extra 30 W you’re probably going to get 2-3 FPS extra which is literally impossible to detect while gaming. 
With GPUs 10% more power does not always equal 10% more performance especially at the higher end. You are just dumping more heat into your room and spending more on electricity at that stage for no real benefit. 

I agree with you to some degree - more than 165Hz is diminishing returns in most games. And even with a 3080Ti you cannot reach 240 FPS in a lot of games. 

Basically ask if a 3070 will last two years. Because the 2080Ti is a 3070 with more VRAM. I have a 240Hz 1440p and to be honest a 3080 is better for this resolution than a 3070. However if you are happy with the performance from your 2080Ti then keep it or upgrade to a 4070/4080 when they are released. 

If your GPU pulls a lot of power then you should use two separate cables. Because one cable might not be rated for that amount of power. It shouldn’t really matter for a 3070 though. 

Use GPU-Z to check the current BIOS. It should match this one:
https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/186085/pny-gtx1060-6144-160704
If it doesn’t, then you know it’s been flashed with a different BIOS. 

In most cases flashing the BIOS is harmless if done correctly. And if the card doesn’t have its original BIOS it has probably been flashed. You can check the original BIOS online. 

So grateful for the advice - I flashed it with the OC BIOS and am now hitting max power of 440 W.

The OC bios has a 440W limit. Its perfectly fine to flash, but of course theres always a risk. I would flash it without blinking. Remember to run --protectoff before flashing. Remember to backup the bios. You can use this guide https://www.overclock.net/threads/how-to-flash-a-different-bios-on-your-1080-ti.1627212/ 
 
Newest Nvflash version: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/nvidia-nvflash/

I was talking over 350W stock but +8% is maybe too low, spending +25% power could give you +10%
400W will put you somewhere in the middle say +5% over stock
Look at the GPU clocks and use some benchmarks to confirm
 
I've toyed with limiting the power of my 3080 (320W), and really -25% power (260W) gives -10/12% and is barely noticeable except maybe in CP2077 🙂
 

You are correct good sir. The OC version of the card is 400W though. Just another bios. You can get the OC bios here: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/234545/palit-rtx3080ti-12288-210405-1 @Bobbysixjp

1080p should be breakfast for a 3080 Ti. I would fire up GPU-Z alongside the benchmark and see what it reports as the limiting factor in the PerfCap Reason box. It could, for example, also be hitting a voltage limit, limiting the amount of power it can draw.
 
Also Palit lists 350 W for the GameRock, not 400: https://www.palit.com/palit/vgapro.php?id=4143&lang=en&pn=NED308T019KB-1020G&tab=sp
350 W * 1.14 = 399 W, so it seems like everything is working as intended.

Nah it's 350W
Going to 450W may give you max +8% *if* the GPU can maintain 2000MHz clock, but with +10C as well...think you need watercooling for this power level

Its a couple fps, from having some higher clockspeeds...you can flash your existing GPU with a higher power target vbios as long as you do your research and find an appropriate one.
My 290w 2080Ti has a 360w vbios on it for example.
 
If flashing sounds too iffy, you could just save the $80 and leave it be..
A few FPS isn't game changing in my opinion.
 
Rough calculation based off just clock differences. 4%...

The 250W profile removes around 5-7 FPS, depends on the game. 

Take a 3080Ti and remove 5-7 FPS from it's achivable performance / FPS; is it suddently a low tier card? No. It probably still performs like a 3080 but at much lower power usage. Example: if money isn't an issue and you want the best performance per watt, buy the 3090 Ti and undervolt it. You can get stock 3080Ti performance at ~300 watts. That's pretty dope if you ask me. 

That said, I do mainly run with the 300 watt optimized profile which runs at 1930/1950MHz, which is were the card naturally sits. It just now use much less power but still perform the same as stock / out of the box.

But if I play a game with huge FPS numbers, I don't mind lowering my FPS to save a lot of power, this is where I use the profile 1, the 250W profile. My main monitor is 120Hz anyway, so no real need to push more when I'm not playing competitive games. Games run responsive enough as is. I have bound my 3 profiles to ALT + 1, ALT + 2, and ALT + 3, so I can easily switch between them. 

Yes and no.
The FTW3 is smoother overclocked.
The XC3 can be rough overclocked. It stuttered in some benches.
 
The FTW3 is hotter and harder to manage.
It is too hot for the Cooler Master H500 ARGB that the XC3 is in so it is in its box. It did fine with the Lian Li O11 Dynamic.
 
If I was buying another 3080 ti it would be the Strix. It is bigger than the EVGAs and much cooler.
I had the 3080 version. Even using 450 watts it was cooler than the FTW3 at stock.