-
Posts
401 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Status Updates
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store Home
Posts posted by BigRecoiilz
-
-
1 minute ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:
Its prob not a z board so rip oc, maybe you can use throttlestop but its quite pointless when the boards vrm is gonna start burning on any sort of oc xD
Thats the official spec, since its a spec you can actually draw more than what its designed for but ofc not reccomended cause cables or connectors can literally start melting but minor overspec like 175w i dont really see a problem with
Thanks for that info and I also just remembered that the 9700KF has intel turbo boost tech up to 4.9Ghz. Could the mobo handle that?
-
My friend has a very "budget motherboard" and it only has one 4 pin CPU header. Stock base clock is only 3.6GHz i believe. One 4 pin CPU mobo slot can handle up to approx. 150 watts so with that, what are some overclock settings for an i7 9700KF to get the most out of it?
-
4 minutes ago, brob said:
Get a decent 1TB NVMe drive. Use the SSD Tier list
Couldn't I just get the cheapest 1TB SSD i can find on PcPartPicker? Speeds of it really doesn't matter to me.
-
Title says it all; which one is better? Possibly going to upgrade.
-
Budget (including currency): $180-$250 (Try to stay under $250)
Country: United States
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Streaming @1080p@60fps: Warzone, Shadow of the Tomb Raider (All Ultra settings @1080p), GTA V (All Ultra settings @4k or @1080p if needed), World of Warships (All ultra settings @4k or @1080p if needed)
Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):
I don't need the graphics card updated, just anything else that I could benefit from an upgrade would be nice to know.
Part List:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GDk4F8
Word list for those who'd rather look at it:
CPU: i7 8700k @5.0GHz @1.36V (I think, can't remember)
GPU: AMD ASUS RX6600XT @2700MHz Core, @2200MHz Memory
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390UD (Would really like to upgrade this to a white 1151 mobo, mainly for aesthetics and better VRM cooling for potentially higher CPU clocks.
Storage (really want to upgrade this too):
• Boot: HPEX920 256GB NVME SSD
• D: ADATA SU625 240GB SATA SSD
RAM (doesn't need an upgrade): Team T-Force Delta RGB 32Gb (4 x 8gb) @3000Mhz
PSU/Power Supply: Corsair SF600 600 Watt 80+ Gold Fully Modular (SFX because of the Lian Li case)
Case Fans: The linkable Lian Li fans (in white) on the way (forgot the exact name)
Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Mini White
-
I was wondering why I was getting huge FPS drops in games and I figured out that it's possibly because my GPU is doing some type of power saving mode in some points of the games I play so the FPS dips a lot due to the frequency/clock dipping to 40 or 60 MHz sometimes. Then when I look at an area that requires a lot of rendering, it takes a moment for the clock to raise up then the FPS is fine. I wanted to use MorePowerTool to raise the minimum clock speed so that it always stays at the overclock settings I have. Also, if it helps I have my CPU overclocked to 5.0GHZ all cores and my RAM XMP enabled @3000MHz.
Edit: I booted up Fortnite since it's not really a demanding game and I when I'm in a blank island, the clock speed is at the full overclock, normal. But when I look at an area with a ton of objects, the clock speed goes down to about 300MHz and that's when the FPS drops from about 750 to barely 120.
OC settings below if it helps;
-
5 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:
Yeah. You can also flip the switch on the PSU if that's easier.
Also, my boot drive is at 237 out of 238 gb. Could that be the problem too?
-
1 minute ago, RONOTHAN## said:
My first thought is that it's a bad driver, specifically graphics. Try to get into safe mode and see if the issue persists. The easiest way I know to get into safe mode is to unplug the PC 3 times once it starts booting into Windows. It will launch startup settings, and you just have to pick "Start in safe mode" or something like that (I forget the exact language and don't feel like looking it up). If you can get into safe mode just fine, try using DDU to see if the problem can be fixed. You should run DDU in safe mode for the best experience.
Unplug the power supply cord 3 times you're saying?
-
After I boot up my PC, I can log in but after about 10 seconds, the screen turns black. A few minutes ago, I saw a blue stretched screen that said Restore Windows or Restart so I just restarted. Ever since, the screen goes dark after I log in.
PC specs:
Mobo: Gigabyte Z390 UD
CPU: i7 8700K @5.0GHz all cores
GPU: ASUS DUAL AMD RX6600XT
RAM: Team T-Force 32Gb (4 x 8GB) @3000MHz
Power Supply (PSU): Corsair SF600 80+ Gold (SF because of my Lian Li PC O11D Mini Case)
-
5 minutes ago, SorryClaire said:
Average day in NZXT Cam.
I completely closed NZXT CAM and opened it back up, it's good now.
-
Just now, SorryClaire said:
Average day in NZXT Cam.
You're saying it's an NZXT CAM bug and nothing to worry about?
-
NZXT CAM is showing that DataExchangeHost is using 3421% of my GPU but my general GPU usage is 3%, constantly. The bar in NZXT CAM is showing 100% usage but it isn't adding up. General GPU usage hasn't moved from 3% at all, by the way. Under the Processes tab in Task Manager, my GPU doesn't even show up, but under the Performance tab, it shows and has normal readings. What is DataExchangeHost and how can I fix this anomaly?? (See 4 attached screenshots below)
-
Budget (including currency):
Country: US
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Competitive Warzone, Rocket League, and Fortnite. Might be streaming.
Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Recommended case: Lian Li PC O11D Mini White from Amazon for about $122 USD. Wants the PC to look good aesthetically but more so to perform well. Budget is $1,300 USD. Graphics card can be a good used one from eBay, Amazon, OfferUp, wherever.
-
2 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:
At that voltage in anything CPU intensive and on stock TIM yeah that's normal
2 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:Those are great temps. Assuming it’s actually stable, that’s solid.
Is there a voltage that I could put it down to to keep my CPU @5.0GHz but the temps down to like 72C at max?
-
2 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:
At what task? Anything under 100 is technically fine, 81 in a cpu intensive task is fine.
if voltage is once 1.3v, those temps will be expected without a delid
I forgot my exact voltage but I believe it's at about 1.35-1.38V.
-
My i7 8700k is OC'ed @5.0GHz and sometimes it peaks at 81C. That's the highest I've ever seen and my idle temps are about 34C. With Chrome open only, it's about 41C and while gaming, it peaks at about 63C. I also replaced the stock thermal paste last month to Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. Temps normal?
-
15 minutes ago, Quackers101 said:
for a higher price you could sell the GPU by itself, but the other parts would become maybe harder to sell at a "decent" price?
depends on how the market are around your area.
Good idea. I might part out the pc and sell the parts separately.
-
I need to get rid of my PC because it's too much of a distraction from responsibilities. Anyways, the specs are as follows and pictures of the PC are attached as well;
CPU: i7 8700k @5.0GHz (Got it it up to 5.1GHz before but decreased it to 5.0Ghz for better stability)
Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X53 240mm AIO Water Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 UD (Ultra Durable)
RAM: 32GB Team T-Force Delta RGB 3000Mhz (4 x 8GB)
PC Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Mini (White)
GPU (Graphics card): ASUS AMD RADEON 6600XT (2020)
Storage:
Boot drive: 256GB NVME SSD (HP EX920)
D Drive: 240GB SATA SSD (ADATA SU625)
Power Supply: Corsair SF600 80+ Gold (SFX form factor, only form factor than can be used in the case)
All the parts in here cost about $2,000 USD, mainly because of how overpriced the graphics card was. Hoping to get that same price, if not slightly less, and gladly more.
-
On 8/8/2018 at 12:22 AM, sh4z said:
Max i'd say try to keep below 1.35-1.4v, you won't know what your CPU is capable of to achieve 5.1GHz until you incrementally adjust it up and test it. It's a long process, but in the long run its safer to explore the performance limits of your CPU this way. Leave the voltage at stock first and see how high you can go with the multiplier while still remaining stable. Start around 1.15v to 1.20v, see what you get!
1.2 is barely enough for 4.8/4.9Ghz, let alone 5.1?
-
9 minutes ago, Electronics Wizardy said:
Well it doesn't have a video encoder, so it can't help you with encoding.
Its so old its basically useless these days, Id just use your amd gpu for everything.
Id probably use quicksync as the encoder if you don't want to use cpu as it should be better than the amd encoder.
Also, what about an AMD HD 5450? Does that have a streaming encoder?
-
1 minute ago, Electronics Wizardy said:
Well it doesn't have a video encoder, so it can't help you with encoding.
Its so old its basically useless these days, Id just use your amd gpu for everything.
Id probably use quicksync as the encoder if you don't want to use cpu as it should be better than the amd encoder.
Without streaming I get about 150 fps in Warzone and using the AMD encoder I get about 90-100 @5000 bitrate. If I use the x264 encoder (CPU) my CPU usage is really high (80%-98%). Just was wondering if I could use the old card separately. Thanks though
-
I have an i7 8700k @5.2GHz and an AMD RX6600XT (2021) and I have an old NVIDIA Quadro FX580 graphics card. Could I put the old FX 580 in my PC to use for streaming in OBS and have my 6600XT used solely for gaming?
-
I have Team T-Force Delta RAM that runs at 3000MHz with XMP enabled. Is there a way to manually overclock it to 3200MHz or 3400?
-
47 minutes ago, Benji said:
That should be the setting, yes, but it's already set to what I believe is the lowest value. The rest would be dynamically assigned, which they can do by themselves. Other than that, I have no idea how to reduce that.
Yea the lowest was 128 and i tried that but still the same problem. Thanks though
Friend's PC stuck in boot loop and no signal
in Troubleshooting
Posted
My friend has been struggling to solve his PC problem for a couple months now. I was finally able to take a look at it at home and I'm having the same problem; boot loop and no monitor signal. I reapplied thermal paste and changed his CPU cooler to a stock Intel one that I had laying around since the one he had on wasn't too secure. Also, I noticed that his motherboard only has one 4 pin EPS (CPU) header instead of the traditional/usual 4+4 pin slot. As far as I know, that shouldn't really a be a problem to cause a boot loop, maybe just won't get the most out of his PC due to power constraints. His specs are as follows;
CPU: i7 9700KF
Mobo: Not sure which motherboard exactly he has but it's definitely a Gigabyte Ultra Durable Mini ATX model (LGA1151 of course)
GPU: Gigabyte 1660 Ti
RAM: T-Create 16GB (unsure of clock speed)
PSU: Aresgame AGW650 80+ Bronze
Storage: WD Green SN350 1TB