stevv

I just read all 35 pages. Holy balls. What a couple of hours.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7173/samsung-ssd-840-evo-review-120gb-250gb-500gb-750gb-1tb-models-tested
 
... TurboWrite: MLC Performance on a TLC Drive
 
 
When MLC first came out, there was sandforce doing compression because the chips cannot write as fast as the SLC (much more expensive). Reasonable sacrifice given how crazy expensive SLC drives were back then.  Now it's TLC's turn.  Driving price down is good, and for consumer use is fine.  
 
The OP also mentioned uses for business trip.  As an IT consultant... anything business/work involved should put reliability as priority.
 
 
 
Ah, I never said there was anything "wrong" with the firmware, just not a fan of compensating ssd hardware performance with software (sandforce  :rolleyes: ).
 
Only time will tell if samsungs' new method is reliable.  MLC is simply more mature.  If there was an option for SLC for same price in a few years, I'd rather go for that.
 
 
 
 
 
 

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7173/samsung-ssd-840-evo-review-120gb-250gb-500gb-750gb-1tb-models-tested
 
... TurboWrite: MLC Performance on a TLC Drive
 
 
When MLC first came out, there was sandforce doing compression because the chips cannot write as fast as the SLC (much more expensive). Reasonable sacrifice given how crazy expensive SLC drives were back then.  Now it's TLC's turn.  Driving price down is good, and for consumer use is fine.  
 
The OP also mentioned uses for business trip.  As an IT consultant... anything business/work involved should put reliability as priority.
 
 
 
Ah, I never said there was anything "wrong" with the firmware, just not a fan of compensating ssd hardware performance with software (sandforce  :rolleyes: ).
 
Only time will tell if samsungs' new method is reliable.  MLC is simply more mature.  If there was an option for SLC for same price in a few years, I'd rather go for that.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Although I own the Samsungs 830's and other older versions, I'm still skeptical of the recent models that use firmware trickery.  
 
In this case, I would go with old simple MLC of the Micron drive.  

= "The Internet"
 
 
Missing Icon = no internet... :rolleyes: 

As a person that has both too (Review samples) they are identical, I can get you an email from out Audio Technica rep before release who said they sound the same. Only difference is the pads really, and they loosened all the joints....
Velour ear pads were more comfortable, but killed the low end. 

I don't know if they ship international, but this is where I got mine from (http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/ATH-M50x).  I also got them pre-modded with detachable cables.  Just recently got custom velor earpads from them (A MUST if you hate sweaty ears from plastic ear cups!)
 
They been selling around $100 for a while, but looks like it had gone up again.  Now they have the M50x... I got whites with black pads =).  Will be adding more cushion to the headband.
 
 

Chipset Cooling, Adventures in Instability
 
 
I'm trying  something new  with the  formatting  which  requires a
monospace font, let me know if you have issues with it please.

As some may be aware, I  originally had some issues when trying to
get this machine to run  stable. While stress testing with mprime,
it repeatedly and  reproduceably crashed after less  than an hour,
sometimes  even  already  after  a few  minutes. Each  time  after
crashing, it took  me several tries and about 10  to 20 minutes to
get the board to POST again.

After  some  troubleshooting and  running  a  few diagnostics,  it
turned  out that  the 5520  chipset was  running really  hot. It's
temperature threshold  as indicated  by the  system is  95 degrees
Celsius, and when I  was last able to check on  it before a crash,
it had already passed 85 deg C, so I suspected that it was bumping
up against  the threshold, upon  which the board did  an emergency
shutoff and mandated a cooldown period until it would run again.

As an emergency fix,  I took the 80 mm San Ace  fan that came with
the case  and mounted it to  the chipset heatsink with  some waxed
cotton cord, and  voilà somewhere slightly above 70  deg C maximum.


Unfortunately  I forgot  to take  pictures of  that rather  ghetto
setup before dismantling it again  and replacing it with something
more  solid, but  I have  managed to  blow up  some sections  from
another picture  that should at least  give you an idea  of how it
looked.


Some Improvisation

Apologies for the horrid picture quality, as said this is a blowup
from a picture of which this section is only a small part.
(click image for full res)



A More Permanent Solution

The chipset heatsink is just your run of the mill alu heatsink held
on by a spring clamp with some hooks.

(click image for full res)



And the naked chipset after cleaning off the TIM. That stuff was a
bitch to get off, it had dried up rather significantly.

(click image for full res)



Since  the 80  mm  fan is  quite  a bit  larger  than the  chipset
heatsink itself, I needed to either replace the heatsink or modify
it  in  order  to be  able  to  mount  the  fan to  it. I  took  a
rather crude,  but very effective  approach: I took an L  piece of
aluminium,  drilled two  holes across  the heatsink,  cut some  M4
threads on  those two holes  (which worked despite the  holes only
going through the fins and  not being continuous), then bolted the
L piece to the heatsink with two M4 screws. Works like a charm.

Don't mind the  unclean alu bits from the drilling  and cutting on
the  heatsink  between the  fins,  it  wasn't really  possible  to
properly clean that off and make the holes as clean as one usually
does.

(click image for full res)



And from the other side...

(click image for full res)



The fan itself is held down by three screws, two in the L piece...

(click image for full res)



... and  one in the corner  of the heatsink itself. The  bent fins
are  from  drilling  and  cutting  the  thread,  they  got  a  bit
structurally  weak  at their  edges  due  to that. Doesn't  impair
functionality, so  not such a big  deal since it won't  be visible
anyway.

(click image for full res)



And the whole package:

(click image for full res)



The heatsink unit mounted on the M/B. You need to unmount the fan
to do that. You can again see the bent fins here.

(click image for full res)



And mounted, with the fan:

(click image for full res)




That's it for today, thanks for stopping by.


-aw
 

If you got the money a ASUS T100 is a great option it even comes with a keyboard and free office.

I upgraded from 10TB to 24TB... does that count? 
 
Hardware
 
CPU:    Intel Xeon E3 1230v2 (ivy bridge)
MB:     Supermicro X9SCM-F-O
HS:      Stock Intel
RAM:   32GB DDR3 1600 ECC (Kingston)
PSU:    Corsair AX750
 
Case:          LIAN LI PC-V700X 
hotSwap:  2 x iStarUSA BPN-DE340SS
 
RAID:    Areca 1880i + BBU
SSD:     Intel 330 160GB SSD HDD :   6x 4TB WD REDS (RAID 6)
 
 

 

Crazy in your face security features.
 
Driver support.
 
People like to hate?

Drivers.

Because most of the people that used it put it on very bad, dated hardware. It required more resources than XP, and was a overall massive change, so many drivers and devices were no longer supported.

The logo is the only thing keeping it from looking "upside down" .  Otherwise, if you flip it, it would be in the same orientation and position as the G5 case. 

i can play games from my NAS over iSCSI, but it definitely requires hardware such as, gigabit networking, a decent NAS setup, and knowledge of networking and how to setup iSCSI. For most people it's way more trouble than its worth and you might as well just buy some extra hard drives and put them in your computer.
 
Edit: Unless you can afford to spend hundreds of dollars(at least) on a NAS, and learn about advanced networking that's generally only used in enterprise setups, its not really worth it.

Project Ara gets demoed by a Google employee and talks about it and how it works for about 20 mins.
 
(Forward it to 5:00)

http://youtu.be/18LU5UtG5-M

So what do you guys think. Personally I'm excited, but there's still a lot of unanswered questions. Hopefully Google will shed some more light on it during the Ara developer conference on April 15th and 16th

I just picked E17 since he already mentioned it, but E10 is good too. My new favorite is the Syba DAC, however.

This thread is pure gold for me. I learned quite a bit from he first post alone!
 
props on making this 

Props to bothering to read it. You've made it further then most.

Shit... this will push me down from top 5... Need. More. Drives.

And the case modding begins!

Case, meet Dremel. Dremel, meet case.


Due to the simplicity of the case, removing the HHD bays required drilling out these 2 rivets,


and cutting 2 little bends.


Also had to cut this bit out to get the rads to fit.


I had to keep this little bit to hold the door on, but the top of the HHD cadge was too low for the rads to fit.


So much room for activities!

I had to cut some more off the top though, I was hoping to use the HHD cage mount to secure the rads in place, but the stack is too tall.

Speaking of my rad stack..



And from the back:



Thinking of mounting my SSDs at the front here.. Not sure about cable management though.


And this is just about as cramped as it gets:

Only one card blocked up right now.

And, yep, it's tight.

Gonna move the fans/rads up slightly to prevent the cards sagging.

Oh, and I'm not looking forward to cable management in this case..

It's about time for an update I reckon!

I haven't really got anywhere in terms of modding/building, but the planning is pretty much complete.

The case itself is great to work with. The external aluminium frame detaches by a dozen or so screws, and then the internals have been stamped out of a large sheet of steel and folded into place.



The only major change will be removing the HDD bays, and then I'll have to cut some holes for the tubing and cables - and possible make some blanking plates to hide some precut holes.

Now onto the main update - the plan!
I've spent quite some time measuring everything and testing different layouts to find out what fits - and I'm not exaggerating here when I say that everything will fit exactly. There's not a millimetre of space left over in any direction around the radiators.










The rads and fittings will be touching the glass doors, as well as the front of the case. The fans between the rads will be touching the graphics cards. There is literally no room left over.

The colour scheme, if you hadn't noticed, is monochrome and pink. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I like it. The coolant and the cables will be bright pink, everything else will be different shades of grey. I think I'm gonna go with acrylic for the tubing due to all of the straight lines and only needing to bend 4 pieces - two of which might prove to be a bit difficult, but I think I'll give it a go.

I wonder if the cpu monitor the chipset temps?  If so, it might be getting warning from CPU, so log thinks it's CPU overheat.  hrm... just a guess...but too lazy to find out now  .
 
 
Odd, since your board is also IPMI 2 like mine. Do you have the latest IPMI firmware? I get the temp like this:
 

 
 
 
Are you using the San Ace fans on the chipset?  Whoever designed the heatsink for the PCH must expect fans to be blowing like jet engines already to keep it cool at that point.  :lol:
 
 
 
Funny, b/c Nuvoton makes those chips, and they are in like all types of motherboards (sans the network and kvm feature).  

I swear... that's the only thing that's logged in bios of most motherboards and the last thing I care about.
 

I remember doing an FEA on heat transfer way back, and found conic shaped with larger base at heat source is optimal, based on the gradient nature of heat dissipation and material conductivity  .   

What do your IPMI sensors tell you... they should not hang since it's independent of the OS.

Hopefully my new build will be an upgrade on the G5 - a sleeker looking case and hopefully something similar inside: as much radiator space as I can fit along with an ultra clean looking loop. Not to mention I'll have to have some impressive cables as the back side panel is also made of glass so there's no hiding anything.
 
 
Lol it would read 'NIM NI' - but there are 2 large rubber pads on the bottom that, unfortunately, have shallow grooves cut out of the case to accommodate them, else I could just flip it over.