stevv

The funny thing is that it's running 1440p over hdmi to the monitor's scaler. My nvidia's option still says "perform scaling on display"... so I wonder. If your keeping the 1080p and adding two 1440p, the under / overscaling can come in handy to make a multi-monitor setup of different resolutions and sizes. The catch is most of the time, it would be in window mode (since "surround" gaming can be very picky on the monitors).

"How to install Windows 8.1 clean with your Windows 8 Upgrade Key" You can try this.

Yes it would.

T100? Android tablet? I use bluetooth to send my phone audio/music to my computer==> headphones. Just need a cheap bluetooth dongle to computer (if it doesn't already come with one). The great part is that once it's "partnered" to computer, it automatically connects as soon as you turn on bluetooth... without doing any switching on computer. The sound is mixed into the computer's audio. (at least in win 7) edit: streaming the audio file would be a PITA, now you would have to control the computer's media player remotely.

Them tiny folded electrostatic tweeters are probably the closest I'll ever get to owning one lol. Their motion 12 was on sale a while back for about $240 each.

The only time there would be issues is if a high wattage PSU can't handle the ultra low power state of the newer intel processors when in sleep. In this case, the EVGA is " 4th Gen CPU Certified Intel 4th Gen CPU Ready Power Supply". With 4K prices coming down fast, it would be worth the wait. If I could sell all my monitors, I would like to get a 50" one lol. I still use the Premiere CS4, but I tried (full trial) Premiere CS6 and it's definitely have good features for editing... especially the preview while browsing etc. I've only used Final Cut a few times, but that's years ago...so can't say much to that. With the fact that it need OSX, is a PITA even if you could do OSX86 on hardware or VM . I went with the one with the best and most tutorials and examples out there .

Huh? Did you mean all the formats the sound card can handle that the receiver can't?

That would be the ideal setup between the computer and HT amp. Either Optical or Coaxial. I have a similar setup, but switch back and forth depending on what I want to listen to (for my setup sound is very "different" depending on headphones). With (spdif)Optical or Coaxial, then the DAC would be through the Onkyo vs the sound card.

I'm sure there are plenty of in-wall high grade speakers. Like https://www.martinlogan.com/architectural/electromotion/em-iw.php But the music everywhere through tablet... Sonos looks like they have a versatile system... except their speakers might not be up to par. Alternatively using the CONNECT with your own amps, or their CONNECT:AMP (for two speakers).

Given those two choices, I would just go with the wireless. If I really wanted quality, it would be a better headphone ( over ear, open, and removable cable... just my pref.). Combine with mod mic, short mic cable and combine to single cable with headphone. I have a wired headphone with detachable cable. Plugs in small wireless adapter (audiomate AM8112) when needed (that's when convenience takes precedence). Still looking for a good wireless sound and mic adapter so I can use with any headphone/headset.

I think you mean 2 INPUTs for 1 set of headphones. There's a couple of ways to go about it: Method 1 - Send xbone audio to computer "MIC IN", and computer sends mixed audio (use windows options to "listen to device") to your headphone/speakers. I do that with my cell phone connected to my computer so I can take call and have good audio. need converter optical-to-analog_stereo for xbone (like this one mentioned earlier in this thread http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403615834&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+to+analog+converter) cable for converter to computer Method 2 - a mixer or audio switcher device. I use my Fiio e17 as a switcher (optical , usb, analog in)... but I don't know your budget.

You could benefit from Higher resolution monitor (1440p+) - depending on what software your using (I use Adobe Premiere), the extra real estate is very helpful. Yes it cost more, but it's one of those equipment you can't simply "upgrade". GPU assisted rendering - cuda vs opencl (again depending on the software) That said. Very nice system and case choice. Though I'm not a fan of that case, an extra $100 to show off all the money you spent is worth it imo . As for gaming, your video card can easily handle 1440p (if my old 680 can). Some food for though, in the end, you spend most of the time in front of monitor keyboard and mouse...

Wonder if you hook up the iphone to one of those portable "battery + nas-like" products in the market... can't remember all off the top of my head. Seagate, corsair (voyager?), kingston, Adata makes them... I just remember I like the Adata one the best. Linus did a bunch of reviews for them. Less device to manage. I'm a music video person so these "dap" doesn't work for my entertainment anymore lol. edit: found one review of it http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/35410-adata-dashdrive-air-where-to-buy/

People will hate me for saying this, but I'd give up the aftermarket CPU cooler (and stay with stock) for now and go for SSD 200+ GB for the better experience and longer term value. Even better graphics or monitor. These things you can't simply upgrade ( unless you're good at selling old stuff off). When you're ready to over clock, get a better cooler get a noticeable performance gain. Blacks are loud n hot, and not much better than blues for storage, but a touch faster. I have blacks n blues in my own systems, but storage only now. Win 8.1 after update one seems to work the HD more for some systems.

I would check all of them, and see if it shows up. otherwise, start with uninstalling the switcher and manually uninstall driver through device manager, and check delete driver. Let window 8 get to drivers first after reboot. btw, what does the realtek software show?

Might be worth a shot to try BIOS update without CPU (and ram too?). btw, any beeps? from : http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z87&s=45&hashedid=gD1HelDX8lh3WSpG&os=&no=978

Isn't this the Motherboard that can update bios without RAM or CPU installed? take CPU out and try to update BIOS http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z87&cpu=Core%20i7-4770%20(3.4Ghz,%204C,%20L3:8M,%20GT2,%20VT-D,%2084W,%20rev.C0)&pcb=ALL&sincebios=0801&memo= USB Bios Flashback Page 2-11 in the manual http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/SABERTOOTH-Z87/E7868_SAbertooth_Z87.pdf

Looks like a good deal if you're willing to shell out a little more. $61 Logitech Surround Sound Speakers Z506 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VAK1FA?pc_redir=1403501419&robot_redir=1 Even on sale at ok BB http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=1215025&ref=06&loc=01&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=1215025&extensionType=pla:g&s_kwcid=PTC!pla!!!49322674727!g!M!49989917359&kpid=1215025&k_clickid=0fcbff90-adfe-e168-1b0a-000008354291&pid=1218236333141

I take that a 2 to 1 reason that rule isn't needed . I don't have an issue with it being there, just wondering about the reasoning was.

Nice, like a tuxedo. Though the power supply stickers always sticks out like a sore thumb because everything else is so clean.

Without sub is "good enough", but subs would round out the sound more (depending on room size). There's just no substitute for large cone size and low frequency. Btw, what size are the center cones? The center is the most important if you plan on watching movies. A lot of speakers cheap out because of space requirement and all the voices sound like they are coming from a little box lol.

Here are some stuff I've used to run from computer to monitor on other side of room. For the HDMI cables, 50ft is not a problem. Just need a decent cable that has good insulation will do (or you might get sparkies once in a while). If it's going through walls, and close to electrical wires, get type CL2. After running the cable, connect it with "port savers" (hdmi extension cable or regular cable and a hdmi coupler will do too) to the tv/computer/console. So you don't have to worry about the exact length, especially if you might come up a little short. (don't worry, a few feet of regular extension won't kill it as long as the main line is good). 50ft CL2 cable - http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10250&cs_id=1025005&p_id=6052&seq=1&format=2

Some stuff to consider: Because a browsers are using the GPU for processing (not just 3D graphics, do chrome://gpu/). HD4400 if you need 3D blu-ray playback. web browsing , software, online videos will be more compressed, and are becoming more complex and less optimized, and even more processor intensive. Hyperthreading and extra GHz can also help some. The graphics is powerful enough for 3D games (crysis 2 @720 even at low setting lol), but w/o extra graphics card power. depending on what OS you are using, you might need to turn off all the fancy animations on lesser graphics power. Pricewise, I would go with at least the regular i3 (not the low power version). As for processing performance, the i3 and G3240/20 should perform similar. Note, overall performance may differ at from 10%-20% depending on optimization for multiple threads and gpu. Don't go for the celeron, the 2MB cache will be a party pooper.

The M50's are easy to drive, so an amp wouldn't give you any obvious sound quality improvement. If you find yourself always at 100% volume when jamming and it doesn't feel loud, it's time to get an amp. - My intel extreme mobo has lousy power... less than my nexus 5 lol. An amp can help improve sub/bass volume. - The m50's can handle over 12dB gain with my e17, which at that point the headphones are basically shaking. good test here

I use my hd650 with fiio e17 @ 6dB -12dB gain, level 60 (max) volume and let the computer control volume. Mainly because its a swiss army knife of an amp. I use the optical in so I can still use the computer's sound card to pre-process digitally if needed. Also has analog in and quick input switch. And for me the battery and USB power comes in handy, especially less clutter and sometime USB power noise (rare). There's also the fiio e09k combo with the e17 for more power. Still within your budget but I don't have any personal experience with that. Other thoughts. The HD650 is already a little "warm", wonder if a tube amp would make it even more so.