TechTippee

A simple question with a possibly-not-so-simple answer: Does having glass side panel(s) make things hotter/cooler inside your case than solid metal panels? And does the level of tint affect anything? (This is assuming the case in question isn't in direct sunlight or something, so there wouldn't be greenhouse gas effects occurring, which I'm willing to bet makes the latter a moot point.)

Medical monitor arms are what you should look for.  They have longer arms and articulate further.

As long as it's securely mounted, but with typical ceiling heights, doing this with anything less than a 50" is futile, you won't be able to read it. I should know, I have a 55" about a foot above my head and about eight feet ahead of me, and I find it hard to read my browser without an extra 20%-30% zoom.
 
With that said...
 
"Monitors on the ceiling, pink keyboards and mice... and she said...
'We are all just gamers in here, of our own device...'
And all the master gamers, have never even ceased...
They stab it with their RGB sticks, but it's not fazed in the least..."
 
Sorry, I'm an Eagles fan, and I just couldn't help myself...

I work in construction, so I'm well aware of that. As I said, it would be attached to the actual house framing, which is able to bear a considerably larger amount of weight. Thank you for bringing that up for anyone else who might read this later, though!

You absolutely need to check the manual as the above posters missed an important detail.
 
Some motherboards only have CNVIo M.2 WiFi sockets which will need a CNVIo or CNVIo2 card which are not forwards/backwards compatible, it has to be the exact version your motherboard supports.  Others may be full PCIe and not work with a CNVIo card.

If you get the wrong card, your PC likely wont POST at all with it installed.

You'll need to hook up antennas to have it work, and maybe install drivers (depending on the specific card you get). 

The truth is... fast RAM is not really necessary for Ryzen CPUs, especially for gaming, p sure AMD still recommends "3000mhz" (which doesn't even work but 2933 works lol)
 
So what i was saying is if you really care about 5-10fps or so more then you should go for "fast" b-die / dr... but if you dont just get the cheapest RAM around 3000MHz, yes. 
 
(thats besides i think this cpu is overpriced,  at least in Europe and because of that in a *really* weird spot indeed) 

It does. The only kits that are guaranteed to be dual rank are the solid Hynix DJR bins, Samsung B die bins, and the 32GB DIMMs (so 2x32GB kits are always dual rank). Unless you find a kit that the manufacturer specifically labels as dual rank (usually this is just OEM Memory sticks labeled "2Rx8", but you can figure it out on Corsair and Crucial memory sticks if you get a photo of the sticker on them), it's a crap shoot whether you get single or dual rank, usually being single rank. 

5800X3D has same IMC with other Ryzen 5000 CPUs. So, in daily use you probably can't go over 2000 FCLK. Focus on lower timings. I don't know your living country prices, but if Crucial Ballistix kits are cheap, go for it. You can easily go for 3800-15 or 4000-16. But if the B-Die kits are at same price with Ballistix, go for B-Die. Even tighter timings, lower timings, better overall performance and voltages.
 
By the way, I don't recommend Corsair for overclocking for sure. I bought 3200-14-14-14-34 kit and it couldn't post 3600-14-14-14-34 with 1.55V. But with Patriot 4000-19, I pushed it 3933-14-15-8-12-21-34 with 1.57V easily.

The way your first post is written, it does sound like you're calling B die inferior, which is where my problem with it comes from. 
 
I do agree, B die only realistically makes sense if you're overclocking because the subtimings are where its real advantage comes from. If you're just enabling XMP it doesn't make that much of a difference. That said, B die isn't as expensive as you make it out to be, for a 16GB kit of Ballistix you'd be spending $65, while the cheapest kit of B die you'd be spending $80. For $15 more if you want to overclock, I'd say it's worth it. 

just here to say that i would go b-die 2x16 for max performance, not ballistix.
 
either the 130usd cl16 kit or the 240usd cl14 kit, i went with 4x8 as fast 2x16 wasnt available at the time, and there is problems going past 3666-3733 with 4 sticks (the threshold is higher on an intel platform)
 
how did this go from budget ram to minmaxing 🤣

Crucial Ballistix are engineered to get the best bang-for-the-buck performance from a Ryzen IMO. I have a CL16 kit in my 5900X and it screams.

Depends on how you look at it. I'd rather get 80% of the performance for $125 than spend another $100 to get the other 20%. I'm not saying B-die isn't superior. I just don't think it's worth the outrageous prices.

It is a pretty decent performance uplift, though I'm a bit hesitant to recommend running 4x8GB sticks, mainly because I've seen it happen a bit too often in the (what I call) kitchen sink bins (3200 CL16, 3600 CL18, 3600 CL16-19-19, 4000 CL18-22-22, etc., memory speeds that a lot of different memory chips can hit with on a somewhat regular basis) where you get two 2x8GB kits, and they each have different memory chips on them. For context, memory manufacturers put whatever the cheapest memory IC to get that day on whatever memory sticks you buy, so one day you might get a stick made with say Samsung C die, and the next you might get one with Hynix DJR. Getting those and running them at their rated speeds together is difficult at best. Only ways to avoid that is to get a 4x8GB kit, or get a memory kit that's guaranteed to be a specific memory chip, like Crucial Ballistix 8GB sticks are guaranteed to be Micron Rev. E, 8GB sticks that are for rated stupid high frequency (4400+) and very loose tRCD and tRP (the 2nd and 3rd timings in the primary timings) is Hynix DJR, or something 3200MHz and above with flat timings (first 3 are the same, though I generally consider kits where tCL is one lower than tRCD and tRP flat as well, I.E. 17-18-18, 14-15-15, etc.) is Samsung B die (the objectively best DDR4). If you're going through the effort to get one of the sticks that's guaranteed to be one memory chip, you might as well go through the effort of getting one of the sticks that's guaranteed to be dual rank (better memory overclocking support, and generally a little cheaper)
 
As for looking up what die the memory kit has, that's generally impossible. Unless you're buying one that's guaranteed to have one specific memory chip, generally it's impossible since the manufacturer changes what's there each day. The only way that's somewhat feasible to know what you're buying is to buy used Corsair memory kits, because Corsair is at least nice enough to put a version number that can be decoded into each of the particular memory chips so you do know what you're getting (I.E. v4.31 is Samsung B die, v3.34 is Micron 8Gb Rev. E, v5.33 is Hynix CJR, etc.), though some people are a bit hesitant to buy used RAM (I'm not, but there are people who do) and you the sticker is posted on the memory sticks themselves, not visible on the website or on the box if you're buying in store. 
 
They're fine, they're not the best performance, that has and will continue to be Samsung B die based memory kits. Ballistix is a very good value kit, it's just not close to the best performance memory kit (unless you need 64GB+, then yeah it's the best option).

the 5800x3d is 200dollars more than a 5700 for a 15% gain (gaming only), if you wanna stick with 16gb ram that's fine (though for most new builds i recommend 32) but the diff between cl18 and cl16 3600 will be about 3% for the 15dollars diff, you can't carry the cpu forward either, and getting dual ranked ram is another 10-15% difference, since you care enough to pay for a 5800x3d to begin with
 
I would either go full cheap with a 5700 (even a 5600)+cheap ram, or at least get decent dual ranked ram if paying extra for the 5800x3d
 
And depending on ur gpu, you may not need a 5800x3d.
 

The sub-timings are something that you can't tell the performance of for a memory kit. There are a lot of memory timings on Ryzen, all of which affect performance, some very greatly, and for some reason memory manufacturers only advertise the primary timings (the ones you listed). Because of this, you can buy one kit of 3600 C18-22-22-42 and another of 3600CL18-22-22-42, yet one of them performs amazing and the other performs terribly. That said, there are a lot of motherboards that just ignore the listed sub timings on a memory kit anyway, so sometimes it doesn't actually matter. 3600CL18-22-22-42 isn't particularly great primary timings, though they aren't completely terrible. I'd want something better though (preferably B die, though B die only really makes sense if you're planning on tuning your memory), but it's not that big a deal. 

Kinda, the way it works on Zen is actually a little different. The FCLK (the interconnect between each of the cores and the memory controller) is ideally tied to the memory frequency, so raising the memory frequency lowers the latency between all those components. While the first word latency between a 3200C16 kit and a 3600C18 kit is technically the same, the latency that actually matters for performance is the latency between the memory stick and the cores, which does include the FCLK, so the performance of the 3600C18 kit will be better (assuming the subtimings aren't complete garbage). 
 
Still, the odds of actually noticing the difference is pretty low, it's about a 5% performance difference in games between the 3200MT/s C16 kit and a 3600MT/s CL16 kit, so take that for what you will. 

K55 RGB is what I use and honestly like a lot. IIRC I got it for $50 from my local walmart. 

I have this one but the version that has both BT and 2.4 (this one only has BT, and ofc wired). It's a great little keyboard and very cheap. Only downside is that the keycaps wear out quickly because they're abs, but it's not a major problem.

I'll count the number of haters this time
 
actually that'd take too long considering SOME PEOPLE don't give feedback on how to improve it

Titan V has been added
 
with Titan RTX and 3800x as a bonus

The easier solution is to get motion detectors (as the video mentioned) and then just hire a journalism major (JM) to walk around and flap his arms to keep the sensors active.
This serves several functions:
 
(1) Keeps riff raff (like journalism majors) off the streets
(2) Easier to implement
(3) no worrying about e-waste cluttering up the landfill. When you wear out one JM, throw them away and get another.
Piece of cake 😉
 
(reference: https://dilbert.com/strip/1995-02-22)
 
 

Smaller dies > more dies to sell > more money for AMD

vega takes up very little die space, thats why they haven't moved on from it. they dropped how many CUs and increased the frequency to take up less space
RDNA2 takes up a lot more

I bet they're saving it for AM5 so they get more memory bandwidth, and a great selling point.
"Our new AM5 socket comes with RDNA/2-based iGPUs! Better than a GT 1030!"