Jinu

Found a partial solution to the problem. Based on advice i tried the upgrde of the BIOS from the first version that supported 5000 series processory and from there upgrading each version of BIOS incrementally. The following was the results of my testing starting from the oldest version of the BIOS that supports 5000 series CPU to the latest version.
3.4  - worked for non XMP profile. Does not allow saving of XMP profile shows D0 error and reboots and then forces the DRAM to auto mode
3.61 - works and seems stable for XMP and Non XMP profile
3.8  - works and seems stable for XMP and Non XMP profile
4.0  - Failed causes a reboot
 
The weird thing is i had tested with version 3.8 before and it had not worked. I guess i had to go through the BIOS upgrade in the right sequence and not jump directly. 
However the light issue has still not resolved, but i dont care about that anymore. At least the power cycling issue is solved. So i guess I will stick with version 3.8 for now.
 
 

You can get a small adapter board that converts the M.2 connector to a pci-e x4 slot.
You can then use a pci-e riser cable  to convert the x4 to x8 or x16 if the 10g card needs more than a x4 slot.
 
example adapter card :  https://www.ebay.com/itm/NGFF-to-PCI-E-riser-card-M-2-port-to-PCIE-expansion-card-1X-X4-slot-adapter-2280/362763664782
The power cable is to introduce 12v into the pci-e x4 slot, because the m.2 connector only has 3.3v in it.
 
pci-e riser cable (x4 to x4) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-Express-4X-Riser-Card-Ribbon-PCI-E-X4-Extender-Graphics-Card-Extension-Cable/143436591417
 
You could also get a pci-e  x1 to pci-e x4 riser cable and plug your 10g card into the riser cable, if the motherboard has a pci-e x1 slot. The card will run in pci-e x1 slot, so obviously you won't get the maximum speed - you'd be limited by the x1 lane, which tops at 970 MB/s  - so the network card will probably peak at around 900 MB/s when running on pci-e x1.
Not a lot of ITX motherboards with pci-e x1 slots, but some may have a miniPCIe slot in which the wireless card is plugged in, so you could get a miniPCIe to pci-e x1 adapter card and plug the network card in that pci-e x1 slot (with reduced maximum speed of course)
 
You can use regular SATA SSDs for storage, instead of M.2 ... it won't be significantly less performance in games or a big hindrance.

I don't think you've understood. The HERO sensor is more efficient, yes, but it has little to do with it. It's the voltage/current that the switches are being run at, which is the same across both the HERO and the non-HERO mice. This video is on the lengthy side but gives a lot more detail about the problem if you're interested. Anyway, it's not and was never a guaranteed thing on all copies (own most of the 50M/LiPo Logitech mice), but the design flaw is still there to the same degree.

This is a known issue and Intel had done a paper on this. Please find link here.
 
The simplest solution (mentioned in the paper) and if it is practical for your situation is to use a USB extension cable and move the mouse receiver away from the laptop.

don't use asus website for gpu drivers, use nvidia's website.
 
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/

Check this behavior after booting windows in safe mode. This will identify it as a software issue, some driver or software conflict .

You need to use a VPN that allows some form of Split Tunneling. This will allow you selectively use VPN for one app and not for another.

The Multi-display/mixed-GPU acceleration option is no longer accessible, Nvidia removed the option. Hence not applicable

Thanks for the response, i would have waited if i knew the wait was only for a month, unfortunately with the current lockdown scenario and international travel ban,... i dont think the wait will be 1 month, its going to be a lot longer.
 

Do you have GPT or MBR ?
Open up the Diskpart utility as shown in solution 1. Once you have loaded the diskpart utility, type in ‘list volume’. Check if your volumes are intact

Where is you DHCP configured ? IIRC for bridged mode, your DHCP should be off on the TPLINK router and that should be connected to the WAN port of the secondary router (Huawei). The bridged router is not accessible from the main network and it should not have anything else connected to it. On the other hand if you are just joining the two routers on the network then also choose one router as primary router and switch off DHCP on the other router. Hardcode an ip in the same VLAN as the other router. IN the primary router configure your DHCP to start its allocation range after the ip of the second router. This should work

There might be one more thing you could try, since you already have tried a lot. Switch out the power adapter if you can. This could be a sign of your power adapter failing and not able to provide ample current required by the router at high load. I had a similar issue with a Dlink router some time back.. random rebooting. was finally resolved by replacing the power adapter of the router with a new one.

OK.
 
Linus occasionally promotes Glasswire in his videos. Can take a look.