Jinu

Hi Folks i am looking for a solution that will allow me to keep my PC (main unit) about 20m (measured as the distance the cable has to travel) away from where I am sitting. The seating area will only have the keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers and atleast 3 USB ports. The idea is to keep the main unit in a server Rack away from seating area. Most solutions i have read about including thunderbolt or USB 3.2 etc do not meet the cable distance requirement. The solution that meets my cable distance requirement has to involve a Fiber cable or CAT 6 network solution, but could not find anything that would be capable enough to allow for gaming at 1440p at atleast 144Hz Any Ideas around this would really help. Thanks

Wow so many responses.. but sorry dont understand some of the lingo. Thanks for the guidance. Before i go ahead i will give full config - Motherboard - Gigabyte Sniper 5 Intel Z87 - CPU - i7 4700K - RAM - 4 x 8GB - HDD - 8 x 6TB Toshiba enterprise drive - SSD - 2 x 256GB SSD - 10G network Card (Intel) - Corsair H100 AIO - 3 120mm case Fans to cool the Harddisks - 2 80mm case fans as exhaust (server 4U chasis) -650W Corsair PSU - OS - TRUE NAS (FreeBSD based) Ok now what i did is reduce CPU multiplier to 30 from 35. But it does not allow me to change Vcore. It is kept as Auto and the value is shown against it is 0.985V This allows my power consumption to reach at idle is still about 126W Also please note power consumption i am talking about is the value at the wall socket for the whole PC.

Hi Folks I am using my old motherboard/CPU for running a local NAS. However its power consumption at the wall socket under idle conditions is about 150W. I brought this down to 127W by switching off Audio and the Killer ethernet controller. But i want to bring it down further. I was never keen on overclocking so dont understand the intricacies or combinations involved in that. I have heard that undervolting and marginally reducing CPU clock can lead to significant savings in Power and Thermals. Any ideas or suggestions on what all parameters i can adjust to reduce the power consumption. The aims is to get it below 100W

Found a partial solution to the problem. Based on advice i tried the upgrde of the BIOS from the first version that supported 5000 series processory and from there upgrading each version of BIOS incrementally. The following was the results of my testing starting from the oldest version of the BIOS that supports 5000 series CPU to the latest version. 3.4 - worked for non XMP profile. Does not allow saving of XMP profile shows D0 error and reboots and then forces the DRAM to auto mode 3.61 - works and seems stable for XMP and Non XMP profile 3.8 - works and seems stable for XMP and Non XMP profile 4.0 - Failed causes a reboot The weird thing is i had tested with version 3.8 before and it had not worked. I guess i had to go through the BIOS upgrade in the right sequence and not jump directly. However the light issue has still not resolved, but i dont care about that anymore. At least the power cycling issue is solved. So i guess I will stick with version 3.8 for now.

Just to update on the issue: I took the motherboard back to the dealer for testing and he tested with a 3600 series processor and there was no power recycle. But the light issue was there. So he tested his CPU 3600 series on a new Taichi X570 motherboard that he had. On that I noticed that the power and reset light comes on only after the power button is pressed and stays on till the BIOS screen comes or the systems starts to boot and then it switches off. But on my board this was not happening the lights stayed off. Please note i have tested my CPU and memory config on a Gigabyte X570 master motherboard and it works fine without any issues. But when i put my CPU in the new board it would not post (d2 error) and then he updated BIOS using BIOS Flashback to version 4.0. Now the new board boots exactly like mine and the same issue repeats including the light behavior and the one time power cycling started. So what i have summarized is that ASrock x570 Taichi motherboards are useless and not ready for the 5000 series processors. My guess is that the BIOS Flashback process is screwed up and that is what is causing the Light and powercycle issue. Now there does not seem to be anyway to cleanup the BIOS and bring it back to original state. I tried BIOS reset, BIOS clear button, BIOS clear jumper, even removing the BIOS battery for 12 hours. Nothing works. Issues stays.

Yes the digits start when i start the motherboard and it goes off after the POST screen comes up

Thanks for your post. I have done that and more (Cleared BIOS, Reset BIOS setting, Downgraded BIOS, upgraded BIOS). But it does not help. The power and reset buttons are to be on when i on the PSU and should go off after the POST is done. But in my case it does not come on at all when i on the PSU and then there is the power cycling that is happening.

I did that. I downgraded the BIOS to a lower version also. Did the clear CMOS switch thing also. Before i go further let me specify my config - AMD Ryzen 5600x - ASROCK Taichi x570 - Crucial Ballistix RGB 3600 MHz DDR4 DRAM - 32GB - Corsair MP600 512 GB SSD - WD Black 750 1TB SSD - Gigabyte 3060TI Gaming OC graphics card - Lian li Galahad 360 AIO - Corsair RM650 PSU Exceptt for the PSU all other components are brand new. The taichi motherboard has a 8PIN and a 4 pin CPU power connector. My PSU does not have a 4 pin CPU power connector and from what i read on the net the 4 pin power connector was required only if we were using high end CPU or was into overclocking. So i connected only the 8 pin power connector and not the 4 pin While studying the problem i realised the once the error occurred, the PC would not turn on not mater how many times i press the power button on the motherboard. It will work only if i switch off and on the PSU. So realized that some protection mechanism of the PSU was kicking in. So for testing purpose i used another PSU (Antec HCG 850W Gold) and also connected both the 8pin and 4 pin CPU power connectors. Now the PC seems stable. I ran a Stability test for 7 hours and it did not crash or reboot. But the following issues persist 1. When i switch on the PSU if i correctly remember, the power and reset switch on the motherboard used to light up. Now it does not, though the other RGB lights on the motherboard come on. 2. When i push the power button the motherboard goes through one power cycle i.e before the motherboard logo comes on the screen the motherboard switches of (stays off for about 3-5 secs) and then automatically reboots and then it boots fine. This happens only if i switch on and off the power supply and happens every time I switch off and on the PSU. 3. When i shutdown the PC from windows, after shutdown the lights of the power and reset button on the motherboard come on. I guess this is the actual and expected behaviour and now if i switch on the PC it boots up without power cycling. 4. If i switch off the PSU and on it again, then the issues mentioned in points 1 and 2 above repeat. And this happens everytime I power off the pSU and switch it on. Question - Is something wrong with the motherboard ? DO i need to RMA it - Any ideas on why the power cycle happens whenever i switch off and on the PSU and not when i shutdown and restart my PC from windows. - How is it that given my configuration a premium Corsair RM 650W PSU cannot handle the load and requires a 850W PSU ? When i look at a PSU Calculator for my config, the load is supposed to be around 450W only. EDIT: Also added a video link to show the problem. At 2 secs mark you can see the issue of the power button and reset button not lighting up. At 22 sec mark you can see the power cycle that happens. Video Link - Video LInk of Issue

Hi Folks I have just bought a new ASrock Taichi X570 motherboard. Since the bios that came with the motherboard did not support the 5000 series chips i ugpraded the bios to 4.0 (latest) and completed the full setup. Initially no problem noticed. But now the following issues are happening. - The motherboard when i switch it on (just the PSU) the RGB leds of the motherboard come on but the light of the onboard power button and reset button do not come on. - If press the power button, the mother starts the post process and then suddenly reboots (before even showing the ASROCK logo). Then it automatically boots again and this time it completes the boot process and comes to the window login screen. This happens every time i switch of and on the PSU. - At the windows login screen, it randomly powers off (sometimes it does not and seems to work well), but most times its powers off. When it powers off then i cant seem to power up the motherboard no matter how many times i press the power button. everytime, the light in the accessories flicker and then it switches off. When it switches off the RGB lights of the motherboard are still on. What could be the issue any ideas?

Thanks will need to figure out how to fit this in a Mini ITX case

Hi folks I am planning to build a SFF gaming PC with a AMD B550 motherboard. But i also need 10Gbe network connectivity in the PC. The only way i can do this is by putting a PCIE card (10Gbe network card) , But the mini ITX boards have only 1 PCIE X16 slot which will be occupied by the Graphics Card. One other option is to use a PCIE splitter which cases like Sliger SM580 support. Here the PCIEx16 slot is divided into 2 x8 slots. From what i have read the performance difference in graphics by running it in a x8 slot is not that significant. But using this feature requires support from the Motherboard BIOS. I know the ASROCK motherboard supports PCIE bifurcation. Do any of you know if the following mini ITX motherboards support PCIE Bifurcation - ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I Gaming - GIGABYTE B550I AORUS PRO AX If you have any other solution for providing 10Gbe capability to a mini itx board please advice. No Thunderbolt to 10g converters as i have considered it and rejected that option based on Cost and Thunderbolt performance/stability issues i have read about Thanks

Yes I am the original owner. If you mean have i removed the heatsink and put new thermal paste on the GPU. Yes have done that. What i dont get is if the card is down why does it work perfectly in Ubuntu ? Maybe is should try a graphics loaod test in ubuntu and see if that is the issue,

Hi Folks I have a graphics card - ASUS GeForce GTX 780 DirectCU II. This card has served me faithfully for 6 years now. But now it seems to have started showing its age. But i am majorly confused on its behaviour. The following are the problems faced and how i resolved them. All these issues have come in the past one year. 1. Problem - The PC keeps power cycling Solved By - Removing and reseating graphics card. This happened on an average once a month and would work fine after i reseated the graphics card 2. Problem - The PC keeps power cycling Solved By - Removing the shroud of the graphics card. After a few months just reseating did not work. I finally got it to work after removing the shroud. Dont know why, but this solution worked 3. Problem - I see the Bios screen but after that no display. The PC just hangs. This behaviour is consistent. I can enter the BIOS and move around, but when i boot after the initial screen the PC hangs (sometime shows the windows logo, sometimes does not) Solution - Moved to the onboard graphics card (Thanks to intel this is an option) To trouble shoot i put this graphics card in another PC that is currently running a GTX 750ti. Removed the 750Ti and replaced it with my card. I did not get any display not even the BIOS screen. Put the 750Ti back and everything was fine. Tried another old motherboard I should say ancient(Intel G31 Motherboard) with 2GB DDR2 Ram. Used Ubuntu to test it. The card works smoothly here. So not sure is the card spoilt or not ? Any thing i can do to fix it ?

Hi Folks Sorry guys but the heat issue in ubiquity products is worrying. I happened upon the internal pictures of a Unifi Dream machine (see attached image or refer link for whole FCC document) and i find the thermal dissipation design very poor. This one image tells the whole story. Maybe I am wrong, but I am having trouble figuring out what kind of airflow was conceptualized for moving the heat out of the box, considering that under load this CPU can reach temperatures of 80-90 degrees. Some issues i see 1. The outer box holding the whole thing together has only vents (and that too tiny vents) at the bottom of the device. The top is completely sealed. 2. The fan is blowing air towards the top of the device 3. the CPU is only passively cooled and the fan air, if at all it reaches there will do so with great difficulty 4. The power supply module is not cooled (but might not be a problem as compared to the sizzling CPU) It almost feels like this was originally designed as a fanless device, but given the number of heating complaints and failures, they added the fan as an after thought. People are coming out with unique solutions to cool their Unifi devices - External fan solution for UDM - External fan solution for USG Anyways i am planning to upgrade to an ubiquity setup, but some of the parts are out of stock so will update on the temp issue one i have my own setup. Keeping my fingers crossed especially because where i stay ambient temps are in the range of 30 degrees C

Thanks for the prompt response, but even on ubiquiti own forums, you get to see complaints of failure, usually of the power supply, but what is worrying is usually the failures are within 2 years. And from what i understand from the forums, though Ubiquiti has made the power supplies replacement, its still a failure point and the power supplies dont come cheap