MTrencovski

Here are some on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Zmbroll-Standoffs-Universal-Motherboard-Screwdriver/dp/B08R658PF9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=L3KPFL01M8YH&dchild=1&keywords=motherboard+screws+and+standoffs&qid=1629316325&s=electronics&sprefix=motherboard+screws%2Celectronics%2C168&sr=1-3 It's ALL the screws you need and then some.

Testing airflow in an HP? Why would you test something that doesn't exist? /s

I have in both the 220T Airflow and the P300A (smaller version of the P360A) 
 
I was happier with the build quality in the P300a, but the 220T coming with three pre installed fans was a nice bonus.  Both cases (P300A and 220T) are both very short meaning you can only put in a 300m long GPU in, BEFORE any AIO you want to put in the front (keep that in mind if you want to front mount a Radiator). 
P300A
220T
 

If you go 220t make sure its the airflow version
 
Tbh just go for the vheapest case out of the two

They are both good options, so this is a personal preference sort of question. I think I'd personally go with the P360A.

Is this a laptop or a desktop?

Do take under consideration that XMP / DOCP means that the memory "reseller," rather than the manufacturer, because most of the brands out there don't actually produce the memory chips themselves, have validated that the memory is capable of achieving a certain speed with a certain set of timings. Yet, the key thing here is that it is "capable," and not that it will actually do so. This is in fact in the fine print of any brand selling pre-binned memory. Generally anything above standard DDR4 speed which is indeed 2133MHz will depend on three things:
 - memory controller of the processor,
 - motherboard (memory topology)
 - RAM itself
 
If either of these components is not up to the task, you will not be able to run the memory at the advertised speed. The best thing to do in order to assure the best case scenario is to check the motherboards QVL on what is supported and what is not. In the QVL will see pretty much every memory configuration that the motherboard manufacturer has tested and validated as working on that particular board. 
 
Another thing to take under consideration is that using high-density ram like 8 or 16GB sticks, especially when populating all memory dimm slots, will be a lot more taxing on both the memory controller and motherboard. Therefore, if you check the QVLs of many of the boards, certain speeds and capacities are only listed as being supported when two dimm slots are populated, or even not listed at all. 
 
Furthermore, even if by some chance all is well with the controller, RAM and motherboard, XMP only sets specific values for a handful of settings. This means that the board needs to automatically adjust the rest. However, some boards aren't as smart as others and incorrectly set values which will cause the system to be unstable or outright not to post. In order to combat this you will need to do some checking of what memory chips your memory kit is using and subsequently which values react best with these memory chips. For example Samsung B-die behaves differently Hynix CJR/CFR. PCBs revisions of memory also matters, but not to that extent, at least not with such low speeds. 
 
All that being said, from what you are describing what I have mentioned above seems that is exactly what is going on in your case. So in order to actually run the memory on the advertised sped you will need to do some tinkering in the BIOS and play around with the settings. Loosening the timings and bumping up the voltage generally does the trick. Anything below 1.5V is fine for DDR4 for daily use, assuming you have decent case airflow. Still, like I said, do your research as not all memory chips like being overvolted beyond 1.35V. 

It does it by default. You don't need to change anything.

Thank you, I really appreciate it

Thank you

Yeah. It's not necessarily ideal, but it'll do the job.

If you're going to replace the cooler, get something better than the prism.
 
A fixed 4 GHz wont be an overclock as even at stock it'll turbo above that if conditions allow. You can try turning on PBO but I'd avoid fixed clock "overclocks" on Zen 2 and newer CPUs. The built in turbo is way smarter than that and what you gain in one area you will lose in another.
 
 

Let the built in boost do its job. Look at the clocks. You're going to be in that ball park anyway without going through the extra effort of tinkering.

Start simple
 
- dust out the stock cooler and rest of the case and make sure the fan plug is seated properly;
- if that doesn't improve things, inspect the fan to ensure it's spinning properly;
- if it is, check the fan curve in your BIOS in case you have it set to some sort of silent mode where the fan speed doesn't ramp up unless really hot;
- if all is normal on that front, replace the stock thermal paste, perhaps it went bad;
- if no improvement after all that effort, invest in a better cooler. 

It's fine. The x570 chipsets only have a fan because passively cooling them does work but it gets close. So even a little bit of airflow goes a long way here.

if you bought 2 of the same card for sli, i would recommend you return the other one. having the same card will definitly work better with sli, even if it is being killed
 

I would send it back and get the original card. In my experience, blower cards are generally louder and run hotter than traditionally cooled cards. 

Hmm. I don't have much experience with that specific card. 73C is a perfectly fine max temp, so if you're happy, then keep the card. 

I would recommend this as well. There is a reason even Nvidia went for a different design for the 20 series. The only reason i would recommend for you to keep that card, is when if you have a small case without a lot of airflow

Cable mods?

overclockers.co.uk/cablemod-aio-sleeving-kit-series-2-for-evga-clc-nzxt-kraken-white-cm-14l-cm.html
I think this is what you are looking for ,though its out of stock at this time. Price was about 18 pounds ,Amazon also has it.

Overclockers might sell it!

They are both 400mm it should fit fine

Thank you man I really appreciate it 

3200 cl14 is usually b die, which is known for tight timings and really good overclocking headroom. 
what about a 3600 cl16 kit? usually a 3600 cl16-16-16 kit is b die as well.
the cl14 kit does have lower latency, but for a casual user, it wont make a difference.