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Jingtian Wang

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About Jingtian Wang

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  1. I have an Acer swift 5 laptop which I daily drive. If know anything about the older swift 5s is that they are notoriously bad in thermals, which is fine for me for the most part. As my work load makes me stick to word and chrome anyways, and I bought it for the weight and silent passive operations. The problem is that the fan likes to periodically run especially when charging, and it annoys me alot, I've been looking at ways to decrease it's idle temps. I've considered repasting it, but finding reasonably priced isopropyl alcohol is fairly hard during this time. And I'm not all that confident about repasting a 1k$ machine only one year into its operation - don't want to take the risk even if it's small. I also think the effect on fanless operation would be low, since better thermal interface would allow more heat to be transferred into the heat pipe and into the fins. Air flow would then be required to blow the heat out. Then I realized that the chassis is basically it's own passive heatsink, since it's metal. All have to do in this case would be to better connect it. I'm considering getting a thermal pad (GPU style) to stick it on the heat pipe and connect it the the chassis. Has anyone done this?
  2. So my iphone SE died after 2 and half years, which is pretty good considering that I abuse it a lot. Anyways, I took it apart to see if I can fix it (just for fun). And I found this part (see picture) looking burned, I forget to take a picture but you get the idea what part it is from the picture. On the part it says 77611 21501 / 7761 21503 (can't read exactly which one it is). Does anyone know what it is and what it does? Just curious what killed my phone (might try to repair it when I take EE ). Thanks in advance for any tips.
  3. As the battery in my acer swift 5 is slowly degrading, I'm starting to look for replacement solutions. And power banks are very an appealing solution since they are much cheaper and easier than a replacing battery. By far, my choices are either the Anker powercore 26800 II (https://www.amazon.de/Anker-PowerCore-Powerbank-Ladegerät-Delivery/dp/B07YJMXBHT) or one of the Ravpower ones (https://www.amazon.de/RAVPower-20100mAh-Powerbank-Delivery-Externer-Schwarz/dp/B07KS4PXVF/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=20v+powerbank&qid=1589441441&sr=8-14). Only problem is, the specs on these things are all over the place and most reviews don't cover the laptop charging aspect of these (20v output). The anker claims to be 45w, but everywhere else I look it says 30w and only 25w (20V*1.25A) on the 20v output (what the laptop accepts). Can someone who owns the powerbank tell me which is the true? Ravpower does have a 45w (20v*2.25A) output, but they are relatively new name to me, so I'm not sure if I can trust them. Maybe someone with more experience with them can help. Thanks
  4. Acer just replied me with three stores they recommend buying OEM parts with, which is surprising as I thought they stopped selling parts long a go. But I guess problems solved for the time being. Thanks for all the reply and advice!
  5. This is a follow up question from another post of mine about laptop battery replacements: Long story short, I'm trying to figure out if the third party battery I buy is safe to sue in my laptop. This price of the unit I found seemed right, about 60 euros. And it claims to be made by the OEM. But now days you can never to sure. One thing I did find out is that you can generate a battery report using powershell and it would tell you the manufacturer of the cell. So my idea would be simply do that when I put in the new battery and if it's from a reputable manufacturer, it's probably safe? But after I've seen how ppl can change the displayed capacity storage devices, I'm wondering if the same can be done with batteries? Like telling a no name manufacturer's cell to display Samsung or Panasonic?
  6. How much would be too good? The ones I find are around 60 euros (70usd), for a 39wh it seems to be one the alright side. But I don't know much about the topic at hand so can tell for sure. My plan is to replace the entire battery pack, like just unplug the lead off the mb and put in a new one. It's impossible to recell these rectangular cells these days w/o a degree in electrical engineering.
  7. I did some more digging, apparently although the cells are made by panasonic, if you look closely at the battery on the teardown, it's actually made by the same manufacturer. They just sell them without the acer logo...This is getting more interesting. Already did, but due to corona, their reply turn around is pretty slow...still waiting Thanks for all the advice
  8. Hi all, I bought my acer swift 5 about 9 month ago. But the battery is already showing 38% wear on HWmonitor and it's no longer getting me through a day. In theory it should be covered under warranty, but I don't have time to send it away as I need it daily. I decided to replace it myself, I would go OEM but I couldn't find any replacement (Ap16l5j), the one in my is made by panasonic, anyone know where to get this? I also tried to find third party ones, but the only ones I could find are made by this manufacture: 斯丹达(重庆)SiDanDa (ChongQing). I've never heard of this company but they seems to be pretty big. Anyone who had experience with this company? What are the risks associated with third party batteries? ( Only articles I can find are written in the era of removable batteries, and the OEM are still selling replacements. But that's no longer the case. p.s I live in Germany, if you know any reputable local retailers, please let me know. Any answer is appreciated.