Random Bee

It is possible that the issue you're experiencing is due to mixing different models of RAM, even though they are from the same brand. Mixing RAM kits can sometimes lead to compatibility issues, causing system instability or unusual behavior like multiple restarts before booting
It is possible that the issue you're experiencing is due to mixing different models of RAM, even though they are from the same brand. Mixing RAM kits can sometimes lead to compatibility issues, causing system instability or unusual behavior like multiple restarts before booting     .While it may not necessarily be harmful to your components, it is not normal and could potentially cause issues in the long run. To address this problem, you can try the following steps: Update your BIOS to the latest version, as outdated BIOS can sometimes cause compatibility issues with RAM Check your motherboard's QVL (Qualified Vendor List) to see if the RAM modules you're using are officially supported Ensure that the RAM modules are seated properly in their respective slots. Test each RAM module individually to see if one of them is faulty If possible, use a matched set of RAM modules to ensure compatibility and stability. If the issue persists, consider replacing the RAM modules with a matched set to ensure compatibility and stability in your system.   While it may not necessarily be harmful to your components, it is not normal and could potentially cause issues in the long run. To address this problem, you can try the following steps:
Update your BIOS to the latest version, as outdated BIOS can sometimes cause compatibility issues with RAM
  Check your motherboard's QVL (Qualified Vendor List) to see if the RAM modules you're using are officially supported   Ensure that the RAM modules are seated properly in their respective slots. Test each RAM module individually to see if one of them is faulty   If possible, use a matched set of RAM modules to ensure compatibility and stability. If the issue persists, consider replacing the RAM modules with a matched set to ensure compatibility and stability in your system.

I couldn't say.
But I think you should be happy with a temp of 75C under load, not anxious.

That's not bad for a stock cooler.
A better cooler would get more results than a tim change.

Youre getting charged a branded thermal paste price for a generic thermal paste. Damn.
 
It should be the same honestly, but fresh thermal paste is always an advantage compared to a dried out ones.

You do not have a K SKU CPU, you cannot overclock.

3550 isn't designed for overclocking, sorry. Try pumping your RAM speed and/or timings up a bit.

That would mean that system fan has different max rpm. And no, you can't run fan SAFELY or with just PC hardware over the rated rpm. You could overvolt it with external power delivery, but that kills things fairly quickly. You can check videos from YT for more.

Where do you get the 2500rpm then? The 1700-1800rpm is within margin of error mentioned in spec:
That means that max rpm can vary 1440-1760rpm and be still in rated spec.

Not sure what you mean.
 
But your cooler fan has a maximum speed of 1600 RPM.

Yea i'd also reccomend at leats 250ish minimum. thats large enough at least be more useful in the future.

What motherboard are you using? 
 
I can't imagine a 120gb SSD being actually useful. after formatting and windows, that'd leave you with less than 90gb. Depending on how much basic software you're installing + drivers.
 
Include a couple of games / Steam and your drive is full.. SSDs don't work as well when full. They like to be 50% full, or around that. 
 
 
 
If your MB doesn't have a m.2 slot, i'd suggest a 250gb at least, or how about a whole new budget build with anew mb that supports NVME since you're reinstalling windows anyway

loading things from the HDD a little bit faster because the OS and other things are on the SSD and no longer taking time away from the HDD. In addition, common system files that the games use will also still be on the SSD anyways (common system libraries, some DirectX, etc). One thing I always do is install Steam on the SSD but set the default steam library location on the HDD.
 
Having just one partition vs multiple is _practically speaking_ no difference in speed. I wouldn't bother. If anything having a larger partition means having more contiguous free space to use for things like defrag and other flexibility to move things around.

a 120gb SSD is not a smart financial move. the sweet spots are 500gb or 1tb. Are you getting NVME or 2.5? I also wouldn't buy a 2.5ssd for OS+programs now since NVMEs are so much faster and nearly as affordable.
 
You can do:
 
500/1tb NVME SSD for all your OS+Programs,
Use your HDDs for storage (and why would u partition anything)

what mb are you using

How much can you afford, and are you really using all 1.5 TB you have now? Because a 1TB SSD is very cheap these days. This one is $90

I'd just get the SSD and move everything to it. Too cheap not to.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6BgzK8/adata-su635-960-gb-25-solid-state-drive-asu635ss-960gq-r

I would install your OS and important/frequent programs on the SSD, then use the hard drives for games or general storage. For the 1TB I would leave it as 1 partition unless you have a need for multiple separate partitions. 

Definitely put your boot/OS on the SSD, I personally find 120GB just on the edge of too small for putting all of my applications and go with a 250 for budget reasons but that depends on your use case.
 
IMHO, if you are just using one OS and don't need special/specific filesystems for anything then more partitions is mostly just a organizational decision more than anything. I don't see a problem with leaving it at one partition.
 

Try to install the AHCI driver, I've found a download from Gigabyte for the same Chipset that is supposed to work on Windows 8.1 64 bit. Here is the link

Did you install the ASMedia driver I've linked?

@Jedi Berang that won't work, his board is from 2011.
 
I believe the RAID Controller is not from Intel. It's an ASMedia 1061R Controller.
 
After looking I've found a driver that might work: Link 
The description lists Windows 10 64 bit as the latest supported version.
 
As far as the Intel onboard SATA controller, the newest driver I have found is hosted by DELL and it's from 2015. Supposedly for Windows 8.1 but usually those will work in Windows 10 as well.
 
Link here
 
Also check your bios and see if ahci is still activated.
 
Hope this helps
 
 

try intel autoupdater from their website