Tostr4

No isolation. The oil should be non (very low) conductive. Just make the plunge.
No HDD's no optical drives. Fans wil run in oil, but slower.

Assuming you didn't do something dumb like run the CPU block in parallel with the GPU blocks....
 
You shouldn't use 3/8"/10mm tubing for long runs.  You should adapt 1/2" or 5/8" to 3/8" at the PC.  Here's some useful info for you showing resistance of various components, resistance of 10' of 1/2" tubing, and what a D5 vario is capable of: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/comment-page-1/
 
Here is pressure curves of various pumps, in series the curves are additive.  IE the curve multiplies by 2 if you have 2 pumps in series.  PMP-450 is Koolance's branding of a D5 Vario.  The PMP-450S has different electronics for flowing more at 24V but is still a D5 shell.   The PMP-300 is I belive an LT pump and the 400 is the DDC...I could be wrong on those 2:
 

 
However flowrate is pressure...your loop has a fixed amount of resistance (pressure) and the pump type determines the flowrate.  Meaning you can look horizontally and see what your flowrate would be depending on the pump you use.
 
 
I use a PMP-600 @24V with 100ft of 5/8" hose and it moves a ton of water.  I don't have the exact figure but it's probably around 8mH20 based on my estimated flowrate.
 
Three D5 pumps in series is dangerous with a desktop loop because it can develop more pressure than you are prepared for.
 
I need to emphasize this point...with a single D5 pump it doesn't make so much pressure...you can get away without using hose clamps and loose compression fittings.  When you introduce 3 of them in series with a very restrictive loop you can very quickly run into hoses blowing off barbs, blocks with "flaky" orings starting to leak, etc.  I have been here and I have done this...and it was a mess.   The PMP-600 I mentioned earlier is on a separate loop with heat exchanger...my actual PC is running a single D5 pump on the other side of the exchanger.
 
People saying "look at aquarium pumps" are just fully wrong.  You don't need 10 gallons per minute with 20m of head pressure here.

In this specific scenario it's called "lunch".

As the old philosophical question goes: Why is a soap bubble round?
 
With the exception of the past few years, AMD and Nvidia were always in lock-step with each other for performance. At the end of the day both companies are working towards the same goal, to move electrons from point A to point B, and unless one of them finds a way to circumvent classical and/or quantum physics, then they're both equally limited by the same factors. Most of the components being used on graphic cards are the same. The memory chips, the power delivery, the silicon, the fabrication processes etc are the same or similar. Both companies are limited by the same factors in hardware, so in theory they should always be progressing at the same pace every year or two. Their engineers might know each other and went to school together and learned the same methods and concepts. Over the last few years Radeon went on vacation while AMD focused resources on the CPU end, so people new to computer hardware might be surprised that AMD are in lock-step with Nvidia, but its not surprising.
 
One big advantage Nvidia have over AMD is with intangible features like physX, NVENC, RTX voice, etc. The vast majority of graphic card buyers don't need or even know a lot of these value added features exist with AMD or Nvidia. Nvidia market their features better and push them out into the industry more aggressively, as well as being more proprietary in their implementation, and these intangible features help tick boxes for marketing when it comes time to differ themselves from the competition. If you can see past all the marketing BS, its just another android vs. apple, xbox vs playstation kind of debate where the software and branding sell the hardware.

i hear you.  people dont realize the heat levels until they step into the mining area and see the racks of rigs and the blast of heat that hits you and the noise of the fans....  commercial circ fans and northern winters are all that saves me lol.
 
on another note ive now taken to dusting the rigs with my gas backpack blower - works really well.
 

Keeping it running without leaks.

Keeping it running without leaks.

Update:
 
To keep oil temperatures below 40°C, I mounted a radiator with a gear pump to circulate the oil between reservoir and radiator.
The problem is that these gear pumps are quite loud. But I didn't even bother with membrane pumps, because the oil will at some point destroy the membrane. So I got a 12V engine oil transfer pump, and reduced its rpm, and noise with a DIY PWM controller.   The filter is quite important to prevent metallic pieces from the inside of the used and corroded radiator to get recirculated onto the mobo.   Next mod is replacing the poorly adapted CPU cooler by a 6-pipe stripped cheap cooler. With the oil at 39-40°C, the CPU still stabilizes at 85-86°C. Enough to thermal throttle from 4,4 to 4,0 GHz. I would like the CPU below 80°C. So I stripped all but 4 of the alu plates from around the heat pipes, to allow better oil flow around the pipes. I left a few, so I'm still able to attach a ventilator to increase oil flow, and to keep the pipes in their position.     I am getting some PerfCaps on GPU-Z (Vrel & Vop) that indicate that my PSU is further deteriorating. I allready destroyed the 12V to Molex by letting a transfer pump running too long, and eventually frying itself. The increase in power draw from te pump caused some instabilities on the 12V that powered the front mounted thermostat. And after a while it died alltogether. So now the thermostat, exterior fans and pump run on a external 12V power supply.   But I'm considering replacing the cheap 450W PSU by a decent 650W.    All in all, with the circulation pump temperatures while folding remain stable between 39 and 40°C (thermostat at 40°C; hysteresis 1°), so I think I'm ready for folding month beginning the 12th, even without the CPU-cooler and PSU replacement.

I made a case to submerge my desktop in thermal oil. Instead of the glass or plexi aquariums, I preferred a stainless steel case, because of thermal conductivity
 
With a few heatsinks attached to the side, I don't need any radiators or pumps
 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/STkZgdBR84dQWf8U6
 
Experiment conclusions:
 
- Leak test before placing it on a wooden floor !
 
- When I leave it folding@home for more than 2 days, temperatures stabilize at 45°C, and the front side heats up more than the rear underside. I threw in a small 12V drain pump with a piece of garden hose ( No, I'm not into esthetics) to even out the temperatures. 
 
-I wanted to keep all components under 60°C. GPU under load max 55°C; 10°C more then the oil temp. SSD's and RAM stay at oil temperature I suppose. I have no means of measuring them.
 
*Only the CPU cooling is a failure. Onder heavy load (2 days folding) I got to 83°C at 4.3Ghz. The cooler master fins are too close to each other, so the oil doens't pass trough. I am considering two options:
1: destroy the cooler master by cutting away 90% of the alu fins, and letting the oil make as much contact as possible directly with te heat pipes.
2: replace with a cheap AIO water cooler, where I dismount the radiator and use the integrated pump as a circulatory pump.

Allright. I mounted the 650W PSU and de stripped CPU cooler. I'm not much into RGB, but I kinda like the effect of the blue LED's on the CPU fan in the oil:
 

 
In numbers though: Oil at 40°C CPU 6 cores stress steady at around 70°C  ; +/ - 3 °C. I keep telling myself that this will have to suffice.

Update:
 
To keep oil temperatures below 40°C, I mounted a radiator with a gear pump to circulate the oil between reservoir and radiator.
The problem is that these gear pumps are quite loud. But I didn't even bother with membrane pumps, because the oil will at some point destroy the membrane. So I got a 12V engine oil transfer pump, and reduced its rpm, and noise with a DIY PWM controller.   The filter is quite important to prevent metallic pieces from the inside of the used and corroded radiator to get recirculated onto the mobo.   Next mod is replacing the poorly adapted CPU cooler by a 6-pipe stripped cheap cooler. With the oil at 39-40°C, the CPU still stabilizes at 85-86°C. Enough to thermal throttle from 4,4 to 4,0 GHz. I would like the CPU below 80°C. So I stripped all but 4 of the alu plates from around the heat pipes, to allow better oil flow around the pipes. I left a few, so I'm still able to attach a ventilator to increase oil flow, and to keep the pipes in their position.     I am getting some PerfCaps on GPU-Z (Vrel & Vop) that indicate that my PSU is further deteriorating. I allready destroyed the 12V to Molex by letting a transfer pump running too long, and eventually frying itself. The increase in power draw from te pump caused some instabilities on the 12V that powered the front mounted thermostat. And after a while it died alltogether. So now the thermostat, exterior fans and pump run on a external 12V power supply.   But I'm considering replacing the cheap 450W PSU by a decent 650W.    All in all, with the circulation pump temperatures while folding remain stable between 39 and 40°C (thermostat at 40°C; hysteresis 1°), so I think I'm ready for folding month beginning the 12th, even without the CPU-cooler and PSU replacement.

I made a case to submerge my desktop in thermal oil. Instead of the glass or plexi aquariums, I preferred a stainless steel case, because of thermal conductivity
 
With a few heatsinks attached to the side, I don't need any radiators or pumps
 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/STkZgdBR84dQWf8U6
 
Experiment conclusions:
 
- Leak test before placing it on a wooden floor !
 
- When I leave it folding@home for more than 2 days, temperatures stabilize at 45°C, and the front side heats up more than the rear underside. I threw in a small 12V drain pump with a piece of garden hose ( No, I'm not into esthetics) to even out the temperatures. 
 
-I wanted to keep all components under 60°C. GPU under load max 55°C; 10°C more then the oil temp. SSD's and RAM stay at oil temperature I suppose. I have no means of measuring them.
 
*Only the CPU cooling is a failure. Onder heavy load (2 days folding) I got to 83°C at 4.3Ghz. The cooler master fins are too close to each other, so the oil doens't pass trough. I am considering two options:
1: destroy the cooler master by cutting away 90% of the alu fins, and letting the oil make as much contact as possible directly with te heat pipes.
2: replace with a cheap AIO water cooler, where I dismount the radiator and use the integrated pump as a circulatory pump.

I made a case to submerge my desktop in thermal oil. Instead of the glass or plexi aquariums, I preferred a stainless steel case, because of thermal conductivity
 
With a few heatsinks attached to the side, I don't need any radiators or pumps
 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/STkZgdBR84dQWf8U6
 
Experiment conclusions:
 
- Leak test before placing it on a wooden floor !
 
- When I leave it folding@home for more than 2 days, temperatures stabilize at 45°C, and the front side heats up more than the rear underside. I threw in a small 12V drain pump with a piece of garden hose ( No, I'm not into esthetics) to even out the temperatures. 
 
-I wanted to keep all components under 60°C. GPU under load max 55°C; 10°C more then the oil temp. SSD's and RAM stay at oil temperature I suppose. I have no means of measuring them.
 
*Only the CPU cooling is a failure. Onder heavy load (2 days folding) I got to 83°C at 4.3Ghz. The cooler master fins are too close to each other, so the oil doens't pass trough. I am considering two options:
1: destroy the cooler master by cutting away 90% of the alu fins, and letting the oil make as much contact as possible directly with te heat pipes.
2: replace with a cheap AIO water cooler, where I dismount the radiator and use the integrated pump as a circulatory pump.

I made a case to submerge my desktop in thermal oil. Instead of the glass or plexi aquariums, I preferred a stainless steel case, because of thermal conductivity
 
With a few heatsinks attached to the side, I don't need any radiators or pumps
 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/STkZgdBR84dQWf8U6
 
Experiment conclusions:
 
- Leak test before placing it on a wooden floor !
 
- When I leave it folding@home for more than 2 days, temperatures stabilize at 45°C, and the front side heats up more than the rear underside. I threw in a small 12V drain pump with a piece of garden hose ( No, I'm not into esthetics) to even out the temperatures. 
 
-I wanted to keep all components under 60°C. GPU under load max 55°C; 10°C more then the oil temp. SSD's and RAM stay at oil temperature I suppose. I have no means of measuring them.
 
*Only the CPU cooling is a failure. Onder heavy load (2 days folding) I got to 83°C at 4.3Ghz. The cooler master fins are too close to each other, so the oil doens't pass trough. I am considering two options:
1: destroy the cooler master by cutting away 90% of the alu fins, and letting the oil make as much contact as possible directly with te heat pipes.
2: replace with a cheap AIO water cooler, where I dismount the radiator and use the integrated pump as a circulatory pump.

I made a case to submerge my desktop in thermal oil. Instead of the glass or plexi aquariums, I preferred a stainless steel case, because of thermal conductivity
 
With a few heatsinks attached to the side, I don't need any radiators or pumps
 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/STkZgdBR84dQWf8U6
 
Experiment conclusions:
 
- Leak test before placing it on a wooden floor !
 
- When I leave it folding@home for more than 2 days, temperatures stabilize at 45°C, and the front side heats up more than the rear underside. I threw in a small 12V drain pump with a piece of garden hose ( No, I'm not into esthetics) to even out the temperatures. 
 
-I wanted to keep all components under 60°C. GPU under load max 55°C; 10°C more then the oil temp. SSD's and RAM stay at oil temperature I suppose. I have no means of measuring them.
 
*Only the CPU cooling is a failure. Onder heavy load (2 days folding) I got to 83°C at 4.3Ghz. The cooler master fins are too close to each other, so the oil doens't pass trough. I am considering two options:
1: destroy the cooler master by cutting away 90% of the alu fins, and letting the oil make as much contact as possible directly with te heat pipes.
2: replace with a cheap AIO water cooler, where I dismount the radiator and use the integrated pump as a circulatory pump.

Damn. That means I spent 20hrs of case building for nothing. 

I got a submerged system, and it serves me quite well. With about 40L of Thermal oil in my case. I can game for 4 hours while the oil temperature remains below 35°C. No fans, no pumps.All components stay under 60°C, so stable and durable.