MustafaXIX

yup locked for me too. really sucks that they do this SteamDB shows that "Exclude from family sharing" was enabled. activision is the worst

I recently picked up a kit of Crucial Ballistix 32GB (2x16GB) 3200MHz CL16 DDR4 (BL2K16G32C16U4W) memory because it was on sale for only £83 during Black Friday. I was hoping to get dual rank Rev.E but apparently crucial have moved away from that so instead I got single rank Rev.B. I couldn't find much online about overclocking this specific kit as most seem to be using the 3600MHz CL16 kit, and most Micron overclocking guides relate to Rev.E since that seems to be most popular. Has anyone attempted to OC this kit or one similar to it, and if yes what frequency and timings did you manage? I know it won't be as simple as copy and pasting the settings but a general idea would help. I've currently got this kit running at XMP settings with Command Rate 1T and my CPU in Gear 1 mode CPU is i5 12600KF and motherboard is Gigabyte Z690 UD DDR4 with the F3 BIOS

another update: i believe i know the reason of this drives death now. i recently upgraded my cpu and motherboard. i did a fresh windows 11 install on my nvme ssd. i used all the different game launchers, ie; steam, epic, origin, uplay, and blizzard, to verify all the games i had on my hdd so instead of reinstalling all of them i could continue as normal. now that i think about it, it mustve been reading and checking over 400gb worth of files. i didnt make them verify all the games at the exact same time, it was like one after the other, but i think that put the final nail in the coffin for this drive. i could already tell it was on its last legs since it would take a while to search for some files, there were bad/reallocated sectors showing on crystaldiskinfo, it wouldnt defragment beyond 2%, and a similar phenomenon occured for a day a couple weeks ago while i was using the old cpu, motherboard and windows 10. i also have an anti sag bracket that has a magnetic base, its not a strong magnet but i put it on top of the drive mounting sled because thats how my case is orientated (bequiet 500DX). the base of the anti sag stand was probably about 1cm above the top of the HDD and had a couple millimetres worth of metal between them too. im not sure if that mightve influenced it because ive read that you need very strong magnets to affect the drive and that the casing of the drives provide enough protection from normal house magnets. what do u guys think?

Anyone know anything about the new Toshiba P300 drives? Ik they were made by Hitachi/HGST before I read somewhere that Toshiba are making the drives themselves now but with the Hitachi design? I'm looking to get the 3TB 7200RPM drive because it's only £63, to use for storage of games and documents My 2tb WD blue 5400rpm recently died This is the model: https://www.scan.co.uk/products/3tb-toshiba-p300-hdwd130uzsva-35-hdd-sata-iii-6gb-s-7200rpm-64mb-cache-oem

Fortunately there's nothing of too much importance on the drive. It was mainly just games that can be easily replaced and a few TV shows/movies. There were lots of documents but majority of them are on other devices like my phone, Google drive and on my email too. I tried the HDD in an external drive caddy for 3.5 and 2.5 inch SATA drives. It interfaces through USB c to my PC. I plugged it in and it started making windows slow down and unresponsive again while it tried to read the drive. I was able to access the files for a minute or 2 before it started crapping out again. I'm going to buy a new drive and then try to copy some of the files over through the caddy

I recently upgraded to a 12600KF and I did a fresh install of Windows 11 Pro This is how the boot sequence looks like: https://streamable.com/dxolw3 I was under the impression that it would have the new circle line instead of the dots as I saw with the insider build. Also the gigabyte logo disappears, doesn't even show the windows logo. This never happened with my Windows 10 install on an MSI B450 Tomahawk board, the MSI logo stayed on the whole time until it booted to the log in screen and the spinning dots in a circle was not stretched either like it is on this board Is this a Windows 11 or Gigabyte problem? Board is Gigabyte Z690 UD DDR4. Windows is installed on an SN750 500GB m.2 NVMe drive that's plugged into the top m.2 slot

Update: I've unplugged the HDD from the PC and it's working perfectly fine now. Tried to plug it back in and windows started crashing again. I tried a different SATA port too but no dice. I think this drive is gone

So I've got Windows 11 installed on a WD Black SN750 500GB NVMe SSD. I used a 2tb WD Blue 5400RPM that I've had since 2017 for mass storage of games, movies, downloads, clips and everything in between. Recently (even when I was on Windows 10) my OS has been acting a bit funny. It randomly freezes and certain functions just won't work like opening the start menu, and refreshing the desktop would make all the apps disappear. it'll take a long time to restart or shudown. Windows explorer will sometimes just lock up and make my whole screen to white. When it happened on windows 10 it went away after a day or 2. I did use the SFC /scannow and the DISM online restorehealth commands which both say they were complete and restored files. I've also tried defragging the drive after it started working again on windows 10. It analysed and optimiser but said the drive was 2% fragmented and it would not go away no matter how many times I used the windows tool to defrag. But it still happens. On windows 11 there was one instance where the drive disappeared and then next boot it reappeared It's weird because it was fine for a few weeks since it happened on windows 10 but now it's happening again. The windows 11 is a fresh install. Even my GPU driver breaks and I think it may be because the instant replay is set to record to my HDD and it's set to use the disk storage as the buffer too instead of system ram. I'm guessing it's a dying HDD or a damaged SATA cable/connection on the HDD, but I'd like to hear what you guys think and if any of you had anything like this before. Thank you

I've had 3 different Gigabyte RTX 30 series cards. 1 3060Ti Gaming OC Pro, 3070 Vision and now I'm currently using an Aorus Master 3070. Gigabyte have slapped big heatsinks on all of these cards, Aorus Master with the biggest. I was surprised by how aggressive the stock vbios fan curve is, Gigabyte/Aorus obviously know how bad the cooling is so they've made the fans spin up much faster to kind of remedy it at the cost of extra wear to the fan bearing and more noise. Let me describe my experience. I've had 3 RTX 3070 cards, 1 FE, 1 Vision and 1 Aorus Master. Currently using the Aorus Master, other have been sold. The FE fans didn't even spin past 1500RPM and were very silent. The card would reach up to 70C in my setup. The Vision fans spun up towards 2200RPM (which is quite loud, around 75% of fan speed) when the card reaches close to 65C. Same story with the Aorus Master. How does a card with a much smaller heatsink and *one less fan* manage to keep thermals in safe margins while keeping fan speeds a whole 500 to 600RPM lower?! Credit where credit's due, Nvidia did a smashing job of their FE cards this time around. Silent. Looks good. Runs well. Gigabyte, you guys did bad. Very disappointing especially for how much you're charging. No doubt using the cheaper direct copper contact method instead of a flat cold plate to cut costs even though these cards are popping up for more than £200 over MSRP in retailers. I'm currently trying to secure an MSI Suprim or ASUS TUF 3070, as both have much better cooling than any gigabyte card from reviews and comparisons I've seen, and I'll either return or sell on this Aorus Master. Gigabyte have left a bad taste in my mouth. People, in a stock alert server I'm in, warned me and I didn't listen thinking there's no way they could charge £720 for a 3070 and put a weak cooler on it... I was wrong. (You can tell a cooler is bad when comparing like-for-like fan speeds and noise. I lowered fans to 50% to get speeds and noise in a comfortable range but the card runs to over 70c and throttles clock = bad cooler which they tried to fix with aggressive stock fan speeds) Anyone interested in buying a Gigabyte card, I recommend try buying from a different board partner as I've told others

Does anyone know if I can get MSI ab to boot on startup for non admin users on my pc? My brother uses the pc to play on his account and he's a standard user. Don't want him running random exe files so UAC has to stay on I've tried the elevated shortcut UAC bypass method but it only allows me to use it on my admin account. It won't run on a standard user acc I've got an undervolt profile for my 3070 and I want it to be running for all users Is there a specific setting I need to set in the scheduled task for it run for any user, regardless if they're admin or standard? I put the elevated shortcut in the startup folder for all users and it only opens on startup for admin accounts

No worries

Added. Thank u

Why would I want more dust in my PC? I specifically mentioned that the case hasnt got filters on the intakes and was asking about the dust build up inside the case

Thank you for this detailed reply. It's very helpful

Hello everyone, I'm currently in the market for a new case and the new Phanteks Airflow cases peaked my interest, mainly because of the glowing reviews from Gamers Nexus and other YouTubers. I'm looking at the P360A in particular but it apparently doesn't have any dust filter on the front intake mesh. My PC setup is in my bedroom so dust is a concern. Owners of this case, or similar cases from Phanteks, how fast does the dust build up/how bad is it inside the case? How often would I need to be using my CompuCleaner to clear it out? If you have other case recommendations for a similar price, £70 to £80, then please leave them in the comments too Edit: as requested here's the fan layout, I'll be using the 2 included front fans and adding my own 2 exhausts to the back of the case. I've read that positive pressure is better to reduce the speed at which dust gathers inside so I'll be setting the exhausts to run at a slightly slower RPM than the intakes. Thank you

The RTX 3070 and 3060 Ti both have the GA104 chip except the one in the 3060 is cut down with 1024 less Cuda cores, which is just over a 17% difference, and 8 less RT cores. From benchmarks I've seen, the 3060 Ti is usually only 5 to 10 FPS behind the 3070. Is there any reason that warrants spending £100 more for a 3070? And this brings me to my main question; with driver and game optimisations, will the extra 1024 CUDA cores prove to be useful in the future, ie will the gap between them increase?

Thank you for the information. The Corsair TX650M was my first choice but i I couldnt find it in stock anywhere. However it looks like Currys is back up and it is in stock for 80 so I'll buy it from there. Thank you https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/computing-accessories/components-upgrades/power-supplies/corsair-tx650m-semi-modular-atx-psu-650-w-10191168-pdt.html This is the one right? I heard there's a V2 but idk the difference

Im looking for a new power supply because my current one is group regulated and apparently that can reduce the life span of my hardware so I'd like to replace it. I'm looking for a 600w to 750w PSU. I've been looking through different online retailers and cross referencing with the PSU Tier List on LTT. I found the Pure Power 11 600W for £80 but it's the fully wired version, the semi modular version (CM in model name) is in Tier B. Is the wired version the same thing? If not what's the difference? If you have any recommendations for a PSU around £70 to £80 and above 600W and can handle the transient loads of a 3060 Ti, please leave them in the comments.

When choosing my monitor resolution and refresh rate through the Nvidia control panel, the max refresh rate option is capped to 120Hz if I want to use 1080p native. But if I scroll down the list of resolutions to the PC section and I choose the 1080p option that doesn't say native, then it will let me use 144hz. I am using a 1080p 144Hz Freesync monitor (Viewsonic XG2405), advertised as gsync compatible. Gsync seems to work since it lets me enable it in the control panel and the refresh rate of the monitor does change with fps. Using displayport 1.4 with a VESA verified dp cable and it's plugged into an RTX 3060 Ti Should I use the 'native' mode and sacrifice 24Hz over using the regular 1080p mode? Someone told me that some Freesync monitors were throttled to meet stability requirements or something along those lines of reason. Can someone explain why when using the 'native' option it won't let me use 144hz and it's capped to 120hz?

I have a 3060 Ti coming soon and I'd like to overclock my R5 2600 to reduce bottlenecking because I play at 1080p. I want to know how to maximise my results. AFAIK there's 2 ways to go about overclocking, through the BIOS or through Ryzen Master. I also know that if I go through the BIOS then it'll be an all core oc but with RM I can do per core overclocks as well as all core. If I was to do it with RM could I achieve a higher performance boost to gaming with a Per Core OC by setting the clock for 'best' cores higher and then lower the others? Say 4.2GHz for the best and then 4GHz for the weaker cores? If that's even possible. Or would it be better to do an All core OC through BIOS? Also about RM, do I need to start it every time I launch windows because I have siblings who also use the same PC for gaming and I'd like the overclock to be there even for their user accounts (non admin accounts)?

Unfortunately I can't go to my local PC World to touch up the keyboards to test the switches because of covid

I'm looking at the Drevo Calibur V2 TE for the Outemu Blue. Is that cheap quality?

I could use some help deciding which kind of keyboard to get. From my research it looks like Outemu and Gateron both make Cherry MX clones. I see that the Gateron keyboards are slightly more expensive than those with Outemu, about a £10 to £20 premium. Which company makes the best in regards to tactile feel, sound, and most importantly long durability/reliability?

Hello everyone I could use your help on diagnosing my random BSOD's. It only happens during boot, right before signing in to my windows user account. I would say it happens once or twice in a fortnight. My pc gets turned on usually twice or sometimes 3 times a day (full shutdown and then on again a couple hours later). My average session is around 3 hours. I play games like COD MW2019, Forza 4, Battlefield 4 and For Honor; the PC has never blue screened while playing any of them. I also do a little bit of video editing on Premiere Pro, also never had a BSOD during rendering. What could the possible problems be? I did a fresh install of windows this year in May on a 3 year old Adata SU800 128GB SSD. Is it possible the windows install is corrupt? I don't remember there being BSOD's before the fresh install, but I could be wrong. Pc specs: Ryzen 5 2600 @stock and -0.05V core offset / auto SoC voltage msi B450 Tomahawk MAX 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz CL16 Corsair RGB Pro - XMP enabled @1.35V DRAM voltage Asus RX 470 4GB Seasonic S12ii 520W 80+ Bronze (Flat black cables variant)

That does help, thank you very much. I guess its between the TX M and the GEX