GloriousPain

This is actually the single worst fucking mounting system I have ever used. I now see why Linus always recommends everyone copy's their mounting system; he's very sadistic. I've actually used both AMD/Intel stock coolers; Coolermaster, Corsair (AIO), Scythe, Be quiet, Thermaltake, and deepcool. And yes. I've checked that; like I said I can literally take the cooler off and see. They are both facing towards the ceiling. Also an update I can screw in the top OR the bottom one, but never both. I still cannot tell when ones threaded in or not... just suddenly I've been screwing for 30 seconds and BAM it's fully in... and I let go and the cooler is tilted one way or the other... If I only spend 10-15 seconds screwing in each screw? Nothing. I didn't accompolish a thing at all. It's like each screw only has 2 threads and either it's fully in, or not at all. Also something I noticed from watching the video for a 5th time... is the springs on the mounting screws; compress as you screw them down... Yet when the coolers off the motherboard/cpu I try to press the screw down to see the spring compress and it's just straight up not. I can't push the screw down more than like half a millimeter even trying my absolute hardest. Either I'm just fucking up massively or something is wrong with my cooler... and maybe I'm just frustrated and so that's only making it worse but at this point I really wanna claim the cooler is messed up in someway.

Doing AM4. And No, just the cooler came off, not the C-Clip... And legit I can't tell when I'm catching threads almost feels like there are none. I've watched this video 4 times... And after nearly 2 HOURS. I can't get the cooler on properly.

Literally couldn't tell when it was about to come out... just untightened it and then heard a slight noise. And the screw came all the way out and now I can get neither of them in. Really learning to hate this mounting system.

After spending around 40 minutes trying so far to get one screw in I didn't wanna unscrew it but dammit I guess I have to. It literally feels no different when I'm actually tightening the screw vs just spinning the screw in place until I fully tighten it. and I just did 5 small dots. in an X pattern like you'd see on a dice.

The rest of the cooler is in the way... Update: I got the bottom screw to actually start tightening... and I legitimately just "tightened" the top screw for 2 minutes straight... and the second I take my hand off the cooler. it immediately tilts towards the bottom screw. As if I had done nothing. Edit: and by 2 minutes straight I mean it; I used a stopwatch and all.

How do you even tighten them all the way? Heck how do you even tighten them? the allen-key esque screw driver they give you sucks. I can't push down on it while I try to screw it at all... so it feels like I'm not moving the screw at all

^title. Building new PC with a Noctua NHD-15 Chromax. I'm mounting the heatsync down to the cpu right now, and I just don't feel like I'm actually tightening it into place at all... no matter what I do I can wiggle the cooler around a little. And when I just thought I finally had it tightened properly I pulled on it slightly and it came right off the cpu. Is this normal or am I just being an idiot?

RTX voice is a very very very new program... what did you use before discord voice?

Read what I said again... "mean "ATX" is basically the largest standard motherboard size" 1. I said basically. 2. I said STANDARD; E-ATX is not actually a standard... here's a GN video to explain. But TLDR most people hate the phrase cause it's made up and not actually a standard.

I mean "ATX" is basically the largest standard motherboard size... so if you have that, your case is going to assume you need a large size to make use of your motherboard's expansion slots and such... Then you also gotta remember AIR FLOW is a thing empty space is perfect for airflow. You can still find smaller ATX cases but they're more of a hard find to get them really small... or you could just get a new motherboard go ITX and get something the size of a Play station 4. Or like a cubeish case like Coolmaster Elite 110.

Price and Lowered efficiency. Are the big ones others have mentioned... Another thing to consider is odd wearing? Like most modern PSUs don't turn their fans on unless they hit X% usage or X temp... and some of the components internally might hit a relatively high temp without it being enough to trigger the fans. and it may just use these parts more than others and cause them to wear quicker than the rest. But that's mostly just in theory. Probably not anything to worry about. Honestly if I were you I'd just get the PSU wattage that makes sense efficiency wise, and spend the extra money on a nicer PSU or a UPS maybe; which could also help with efficiency and other power delivery.

Those computers are all like 13-20 years old at this point... just try and sell them for like $50 each or something if you can... then I'd try and take the $150ish you get out of it, and your current gpu budget (assuming your friends offering it to for some absurdly low like $50) then that's a total of a $200 budget... As for what todo with that $200ish budget just look at some of LTT's scrapyard wars series; or other channels like "Tech Yes City" or "Nerd on a budget" or something in that vein.

Heck these are like 13-20 year old systems. I mean remember X58 and the first gen i7's came out late '08... Core 2 Quad is his newest cpu listed... so assuming it's not the absolute last of the core 2 quads... it's from '07 (13 years ago) I actually think a GT 1030 might be too new for that.

Good for HTPCs and such I suppose? But also can AMD just fix their naming schemes? Cause this APU's having an extra 1000 in their skus is just stupid... Also why do they have the "Pro" models? really just wastes bio space they just the last 2 years they had multiple big BIOS fiascos... with the Zen 2 launch and again with the 300/400 chipsets not supporting Zen and Zen+

I mean thats the beauty of the tech world almost everything has atleast a year warranty by default. It's just a couple phonecalls and unfortunately an extra wait if you do make any mistakes; it's okay they do happen. Don't feel bad about yourself for it. and even if you do want to have some of your 500 left over the parts I selected I kept that in mind the total budget I used was only like $430... leaving you $70 to still play around with. I was just saying if you could stretch your budget more to like $600 you would get even more performance for your money spent. Yeah I specifically left the extra money so it'd have some upgrade paths; and also incase needed he could just pocket it during these pandemic times.

I mean 500 USD? You can easily build half a new computer for that. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $167.00 @ Newegg Motherboard MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard $114.99 @ Best Buy Memory GeIL EVO POTENZA 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $59.99 @ Newegg Storage ADATA SU760 256 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $34.99 @ Amazon Power Supply EVGA BR 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $60.95 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $437.92 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-31 01:47 EDT-0400 that puts you in a great spot where then you can just save up for a new GPU and be perfect... Hell if your current PSU is good, and you can get a measly $30-40 more, you could get an Rx 580 or a 1650 super pretty easily. Or with current budget an Rx 570; but I don't think it's much of a leap over a 370.

I mean YES most definitely but also do remember they've been having 14nm shortages for almost 2 years now... If they made chips take up more space; they wouldn't be able to produce as many of them, only making their shortages worse.

Honestly I'd just suggest a new PSU and a GPU upgrade for now. Getting an 80+ Bronze or Gold of decent quality and the best RTX card you can afford; i don't know italian markets well but hopefully you can get an RTX 2060 super, if not atleast an RTX 2060 KO hopefully. Then go about selling the old GPU&PSU... and save up some extra change for a Ryzen 5 3600 if you're still not super happy with your performance. Call it a day at that point.

Undervolting is safe just sometimes you hit instability but it's not a risk like if you overvolt and hit instability.

In fairness their max boards only say they'll support all future AM4 cpus... They figured either AMD will support B450 (cause of the b550 delays it'd only be fair) OR they'll switch to AM5 given they previously said AM4 would last "until 2020" which could kinda go eitherway because they never said to the end of 2020. Or worst comes to worst they'd just have to make some Crackhead bios update 1 time for the Max boards to get support for the new chips and just hope they don't get their asses sued.

Eh? That's like comparing the 2700 and 3600. Given both sit around $150-200 currently. If you're doing something more multithreaded the older chip might be a good idea for more threads to spread the work across the cores. If you're doing something more single threaded the newer chip is more up your alley especially when you consider power/heat.

Basically title; But for context I have my current PC you can see the specs down below with the Corsair HX1000i but my PC is getting to the point I'd like to build a new one both for performance reasons and for concerns of some parts dying soon enough (namely my AIO water coolers; and since I have a fury X gpu, there's no fixing that one with an easy replacement)... If I were to build a new PC though I will definitely not have the same budget I had last time, so there's no way I'd get a similar quality PSU with the lower budget... If you were in this case would you rather use the PSU you currently have (and have had for a few years) or get a new one of lower quality? I've taken good care of my PSU; I've never let my PC be above normal gaming temps for more than an hour or two stress test. I've only mined/folded lightly. I've never done overly aggressive overclocked (FuryX barely OC's eitherway and my 5820k wasn't too much of a good bin either) infact for a large chunk of the time I've had the build I've left my CPU at 4Ghz OR LESS(and some large portions of time at stock clock with a negative voltage offset) and my FuryX had been under- clocked/volted slightly.

Can I guarantee you I know the exact reason? No. But a couple good guesses are filling the Dram cache and/or heat from the excessive stress testing causing the drives to slowdown to preserve lifespan.

I'd love to see this topic revisited with AMD's "real" budget king of the year the Ryzen 5 1600 "AF"

okay okay okay, calm down dude. That's pretty killer for a PC "she might decide to use to play with me" if anything I'd give yourself the 3600. Then give her your main platform, get her like a 1650 Super, 1660 Super, 570, 580 or a 5500. A good PSU... and probably a more specific storage array, like an NVMe 1TB SSD (sabrent rocket coming to mind) that costs similar to the Samsung 860 evo