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If its a windows thing it can be that you are trying to run a UEFI and Gpt instead of Bios and Mbr which you are supposed to use for legacy systems. You can try a ubuntu live install to and check whether your system atleast works. Tutorial: https://ubuntu.com/tutorials/create-a-usb-stick-on-ubuntu#1-overview. Try and see if your pc atleast runs and the video, audio and sound works. If Linux would be working then its Windows but otherwise may be a hardware problem cause your machine is so old.

Nahhh it seems too unlikely. Not because 16k is not sweet, but because the human eye is the bottleneck here! Incase magically tv sizes and resolution increases, then sure. It would be awesome

Sorry for the late response, I am not too sure about the noctua fan. I would say make sure you're buying the ram/fan which is refundable so incase something doesn't work out you can switch, but generally that would only be a problem unless you have some really fancy ram with a bigass heatsink or really small motherboard, so I don't expect that to cause any issues. For choosing between 16 and 32 gigs, its perfectly fine to go with 16 for now. Make sure your motherboard has four slots and you can get 2x8 more sticks. It depends what type of a person are you. Discord, steam, your game and twitch running? 16 is fine. If you are having a lot of other apps also running and you find it a hassle keeping track of them, then you can consider upgrading. Though I'll assure you even with 32 gb, your CPU and internet connection play a bigger role in streaming. For the Power supply, I agree that prices of 1000w units is almost double, and the reason is because of shortages due to mining crypto taking most of the good PSU's. Incase you find a good deal on a 1000 watt unit tho, then it's not a bad idea to get it because 1) It will make even less noise on average load and 2) it will be better suited if you decide to do overclocking. If not, the 850 watt with gold efficiency seems to be the best choice here. It is overkill for your current 970 and will be above the recommended psu incase you get your hands on a 20 series or 30 series. https://www.pcworld.com/article/3575494/do-you-need-a-new-power-supply-for-nvidias-geforce-rtx-3080.html#:~:text=The GeForce RTX 3080 is,Ti required a 650W PSU. I hope this helps, have a good day!

You could spend less on ram. Try looking for DDR4-3600 CL-15 or 16. You could spend less on the ssd as well. Maybe going SATA 3 for your SSD? If that doesn't sound great, you could go for PCIE gen 3 for your ssd. The one you have is PCIE gen 4, and they barely differ as of today in gaming. The case is by far the least budget friendly item in this config. You can save like 180 dollars spending less.

Definitely you should go for a high core CPU. An i7 10th gen 8 core is enough for sure, but it's not great value at this time to put it lightly. The improvements over previous intel generations are soo small in raw performance. So if you can find a r9 3900x or r9 3950x then it would much better. I didn't mention Zen 3 from AMD cause it's really hard to find it but if you do, well then there's nothing better than that. Please do not buy a cpu or anything for that matter from scalpers. AIO or Air cooler? Good Noctua fans like Noctua NH-U12A or any decent AIO again depending on what you are comfortable with. RAM: Since you are opting for a Z series board for Intel, then you obviously should get high quality high speed ram, since that's what you pay for with a Z series motherboard (and some overclocking features). Brands are plenty like Corsair, HyperX, GSKill. You should go for atleast 3200 mhz ram running in dual channel. In case of AMD, I would suggest 3600 mhz. SSD: your ssd of choice is just fine. You don't need necessarily need a nvme drive. A Sata 3 ssd is totally fine too. Pick something with plenty reviews like the one you chose. PSU: If they are looking to get a 30 which is either 3060 ti/non ti or lower like the 3050 then their current 750 is totally fine. No problem. Over than that a 1000 watt is strongly recommended. But you were talking in the range of a 970 which is completely fine on the current psu. Hope this is helpful.

Thanks for clearing everything up!

Ohh I didn't know that. These monitor manifacturers should specify the real deal! Its like 15-20 ms when its off which is kinda fine but 4 ms only with consequences like ghosting. Well I think putting it on normal or just switching it off for me does the job. I am not gaming most of the time so it should be fine. Thanks a lot g.

Hi fellow Anthonies, I have a problem right now that I am facing on my new monitor I had got a few weeks ago to increase my productivity from my teeny 13 inch laptop. It is the Lenovo L22e. It is a VA Panel, 1080p, goes from 49-76 hz. Pretty nice. It has tiny bezels, and looks great compared to my laptop which was kinda old which I believe was a TN panel (im not sure but it sucks so it probably is). So I had seen that it had a feature that it could support upto 4 ms response times. Now I know its not too good, but fortunately or unfortunately, I have not been spoilt with high refresh rate and low response times, and think its good enough. So when it came, by default the pixel overdrive setting in the built in monitor settings was set to medium. It was when I was noticing purple ghosts/fringing (I am not sure what is the best terminology) when I was scrolling under any sorts of text under any color background. It was also noticeable when you move around a small window around on the icons and text. It was also present in 75 hz mode. Interesting part: This sort of ghosting was not occurring when overdrive was set to off. Which is pretty weird since every single thread I was searching about this said that it is because the pixels are not shifting fast enough, so the answer was to switch on game mode/pixel overdrive mode. For me, in case of no overdrive, there was a very teeny white blur like one millimetre around the text, but with it on, there was a very huge and noticeable purple color ghost following the text as I pressed middle click and was scrolling through a document. Now I know that I dont have a super cool tuned eye that could make out between 1 and 5 ms lag but like you can see for yourself. It's pretty weird. scroll.mp4 You can see when I turn it on, there's definitely some stuff going on that shouldn't. It's currently 1080p 75 hz. Any advice would be appreciated. EDIT: With normal instead of extreme, it looks much better but its still visible.

I just got a new external monitor. It's 1080p 22 inches but it's the first IPS panel I've ever used. Late to the game but I really really like it. It's a huge upgrade over my 13 inch laptop which I would guess was a TN panel. So I am attaching a couple of pictures from LTT videos and if anyone could tell me where can I find these videos to test on my own monitor, it would be really helpful. Just a note, I am aware that this is not a benchmark and I do have tried better actual benchmarks, it's just that my intention is different - find cool screensaver videos that reviewers use to show the monitor.

Atleast a six core like a ryzen 5 3600 or ryzen 5 5600/x. For the GPU, atleast a rtx 2060. If you are able to get your hands on a 3060, it would be the best choice but it's difficult to find but you can try. If none of ampere cards are available, 2060 to 2080 super depending on your budget. You would probably know yourself better for storage and ram but 16 gigs 3200/3600 mhz ram. For motherboard, go for any 500 series board at a good deal. Any case which is high rated on newegg or amazon.

This is for calibration, what if I want to just check the coverage percentage? Like how Linus shows in his "LG just made the Best Monitor of 2019 – 27GL850 Review". I have attached a picture. Do you have any clue abt this?

In every monitor review I have seen, they always bring up the fact that x display has x% srgb coverage or adobe rgb coverage showing an image with a spectrum of the colors that the monitor can display. What softwares are used to check that, and how can I check the color accuracy of my monitor?