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Nightguest

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About Nightguest

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    Newbie
  • Birthday 1988-12-01

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    Breda, The Netherlands

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  1. At this point, it does not seem good at all. It would help if you knew the model number of your motherboard, that way you can get your manual here: https://www.asus.com/us/support/ And then see for yourself what the beeps mean. I did do a search for three short (I have an ASUS motherboard as well, but no reference to three short beeps) just 1 long and three short for VGA failure. However, from what other people have written online it does seem that you may have a motherboard failure - it kind of also sounds like it.
  2. 1 Long and 3 Short means that you have a VGA problem - which is expected as your graphics card seems to be not working. Remove your Graphics card, give it a clean up if it's dusty, then connect it back and make sure that everything is seated nicely. Turn on your PC and see what happens, if it still gives you the same beeps there is a high probability that your GPU has died.
  3. Not really related to your question, but I do want to point out that your voltage is potentially dangerous. If you want the in depth version, please read this Reddit post. If you want the short version: Every chip is different, some may take 1.3V ok, others may be a lot lower. This is important as even a small amount over the safe voltage can result in visible degradation after a few months. To find your safe voltage: Turn on PBO on in your BIOS max settings for PPT, TDC, EDC. Fire up Prime95 and run a torture text with small FFTs Monitor your voltage with HWInfo - specifically find CPU Core Voltage SVI2 TFN (Ideally reset the logs just after you start Prime95) Whatever your max CPU Core Voltage SVI2 TFN is (while running Prime95) that is your max safe CPU voltage (for 24/7 setting). - Don't use Ryzen Master for this as you only want 1 sensor and 1 program running. Stock mode is perfectly fine as the CPU voltage will go up and down like a madman, the test above to to show what the safe 24/7 voltage is). That said the best thing is to ignore Ryzen 3000 overclocking and just use PBO + a slight voltage offset. I'm personally on an offset of (-) 0.1V
  4. Hey there everyone, I'm here to ask for some advice regarding SOC Voltage. My system is as follows: Ryzen 7 3700X MB: ROG Strix X570-I RAM: Corsair Vengence LPX 3200 CL16 (XMP enabled and uses 1.35V). Corsair Hydro H100i Pro (240mm AIO) Gigabyte RX 470 G1 (Yes I know that this doesn't match the rest of the system, an upgrade is coming soon). I've been looking to play around with Ryzen Master to just see how good my 3700X is (to see where the stable OC limits are etc etc), I don't intend to leave it overclocked as I know well enough that Ryzen 3000 really doesn't need it, so this is all just for my own sake. However, when I started to look around in Ryzen Master, I noticed something that concerned me, and that is the VDDCR SOC Voltage - it was (on default/stock settings) sitting at 1.363V. I've always been told that SOC voltage should be a max of 1.2V, but preferably between 1.0 and 1.1 (do correct me if I'm wrong please) so seeing 1.363V for SOC is alarming. Ryzen Master Screenshot: https://prnt.sc/rwtqcr However, HWIfno does show a different value which is the more expected 1.087V (BIOS is auto which is 1.1V) https://prnt.sc/rwtr37 So my questions about this situation is: Is VDDCR SOC in Ryzen Master actually the SOC Voltage, or is it something else? If it is the SOC Voltage, can anyone explain why Ryzen Master and HWInfo show two very different values? (I did watch GN's video on 'How to Kill Your CPU with "Safe" voltages which makes me wonder if wtf is going on here as once again, this is all on stock - I restore BIOS to defaults to make sure but tis the same). If this is 'bad' then where do I fix this as I've got everything on stock (BIOS and RM) If Ryzen Master VDDCR SOC is not the regular SOC voltage, what is it?
  5. IIRC the advertised boost speeds on Ryzen is for single core only, so without an all core OC you wont get 4.4 on 'everything'
  6. not sure if "some sort of" PSU should carry over into a build with a Ryzen 7, do you know the specific model? The streacom is so nice and compact, I'd recommend that over the H1. That is an interesting idea (going even smaller) - gonna look into that so thank you! Though, dropping to a 120mm AIO is a bit more alarming than the 140mm that comes with the NZXT H1. Realistically speaking (and with no OC, but PBO enabled) how much of a difference do you think I'll notice between: 240mm AIO - this is is what I have now, but limits me to Streacom DA2 140mm AIO - comes with the NZXT H1 120mm AIO - your suggestion for the ultra small build Using the AMD Wraith Prism cooler that came with my 3700X but is currently just sitting around gathering dust in a box. When I got my AIO, I avoided the 120/140mm's as I was told that their performance (compared to a good air cooler) was a bit 'meh', but I didn't really plan for an ITX build back then. I really don't mind swapping parts around (worst case I'll sell the H100i Pro) but I want to make sure that I get the cooling balance right, especially in an ITX build. - About the PSU, yeah I'm going to jump on a new one ASAP. I can't remember precisely what it was, but it was a very entry level one (though reviews were 'ok' no one flagged any issues with it so I'm not really worried just yet). Though I will go for a SFX PSU when I grab one.
  7. Hey there folks, I'm currently putting a new PC together and as space is a bit of an issue on my end, I'm going for an ITX build (the fact that I really like ITX as well is a big plus). Originally, I was going to get everything in 1 go, however as my old Haswell system started to die, my hand was forced and I got part of the build now, and am getting the rest later. What I have 'right now' ROG Strix x570-I Ryzen 7 3700X Corsair Vengency LPX 3200CL16 16Gb From my older build I'm using: Corsair Hydro H100i Pro RX 470 (This will be eventually upgraded as it is the weakest part of my system, but it's not something that I need right now as it still 'just about' serves my needs.) Some sort of 550W PSU #random ATX case that was being used in my previous build. So, what I am going to be getting next is: ITX Case PSU (looking for a 600W or higher and fully modular as well) This is where I'm a bit lost and in need of advice as my AIO size does restrict me in my options.. I'm currently looking at: Streacom DA2 (using my current AIO - but would have to buy a new PSU). NZXT H1 (I'd have to use the bundled 140mm AIO - but I won't have to buy a new PSU). So, I have 2 questions. Firstly, are there any Streacom DA2 users and/or NZXT H1 users that can let me know how the case is (airflow wise etc)? I have seen quite a few reviews and they both seem good and can't find much to split them apart. Secondly, as I'm not OC'ing my 3700X, would the bundled 140mm AIO from the NZXT H1 be fine, or will I be loosing out in a bit 'too much' cooling? Any info from the ITX crowed out there would be hugely appreciated.
  8. If you're going with Ryzen, always go for dual channel ram - so 2x8Gb or 2x16gb etc etc. There is a visible performance gain between the two - dual is just better.
  9. The RAM will affect your CPU performance more than your GPU. Just pointing that out since your title seems to indicate that it's RAM + GPU, but the performance gains come from RAM + CPU. As for the RAM you picked, nothing wrong with it at all. For what RAM you want with the 3700X, I'd recommend going for 3200 CL14 if possible. The reason for this is that Ryzen 3000 is very latency sensitive, so you'll get more performance out of a better CL. If you're curious, this is the latency per DDR4/CL 3200: CL16: 10.00ns CL14: 8.75ns 3600 CL15: 8.33ns CL16: 8.88ns If you get lucky with the die quality and can overclock, you can bring things to nicer levels, but I personally believe it's best to get what is most optimal for you 'as is' and any OC is a bonus. That said I think that there is a lot of misconceptions regarding RAM speeds and what performance you get from it. If I recall correctly, going from DDR4 2667 to 3600CL16 is about 8% faster on Ryzen 3000; the difference between the 3200+ levels is much smaller. So, 3200 CL16 is perfectly fine, the performance difference between each level is negligible in most cases unless you simply want higher benchmark scores.
  10. That sounds a bit odd, what CPU/Motherboard combo do you have? I'm running 16Gb Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 on an x570 + 3700X without any issue. One thing to note is that Corsair Vengeance is actually kind of low end/entry level RAM. Even if you have the (no idea why) much sought after b-die variant, it will most likely be the bottom of the barrel.
  11. Pity, would have been cool if it worked on the first go. I'm guessing that all of your parts are brand new right? Have you tried to reset the BIOS? If not, do give that a try - but also remove the CMOS battery as well (the pins are sometimes weird). Though, from what you've said it may indeed by a faulty motherboard.
  12. Unfortunately, if it is the board just showing its age, there is nothing you can really do. All motherboards have a lifespan that really varies based on how you've used your system. A good motherboard can last up to 10 years with normal use, but others (lower quality ones) can be around 3-5 years instead.
  13. What cooling are you using? 84C is fine - especially since you're on 100% usage and with a pretty good OC. Everything seems to be fine. The only question is, do you really need to OC? Ryzen 7 3700X tends to do quite well without an OC - the performance gains from a manual OC is usually very limited.
  14. Try to remove just your NVME drive and see if the starts up and is stable or not. If it does work, then it's a BIOS and a simple update (from within the BIOS itself) should solve that. (This is from experience, my ROX Strix x570-I would not even post with the nvme drive, I had to remove that, get into BIOS, update it, then slowly get everything working).
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