warmmilk

I haven't done it but have always wanted to. if you decide to come out to do it, let me know and i'll see if I can join you. from the people I've talked to that have done it, all love it and say its worth it. but I haven't talked to anyone thats really into cars/driving that has done it. just kinda like casually oh you know cars are cool and their wife got it for them as a present or a work thing or something.

rotors were still ok with these... from when I had an RSX. hard to tell how much is left from this angle tho... (ignore racecar claims on street pads)

challenge accepted:

Well I didn’t know that when I asked for the pics… haha

Haha, that’s better… I wish my car was black… that burnt copper or whatever color is stupid. that vid makes it sound like you Navi called you a stupid asshole, lol

ah I see... just a commuter car. I still have one of my miata's too, its been in the state of "almost done" for like 3 years now... its for sale, anyone wanna buy it? (with stock seats)

its like I asked a girl for a pic and she sent me a pic of her elbow... lol are these celica's a double wishbone front or McStrut? also when are you doing a K20 swap?

Those are pretty sweet, I’ve always like them. I just don’t fit in them, my head touches the roof or I’m sitting in an awkward position… I like to sit relatively up right. 90mm throttle body? That’s huge! How’s drivability with that at low to mid rpm? pics?

you have a civic too? tell me more part of me wants to say they're gonna roll things back as we get closer, part of me wants to say the next president is gonna be a republican again (going off the flip flop thats been going on for the last 20+ years I've been paying attention) and they're gonna relax the requirements... but my GM just got back from some industry pool conference, the OEMs are pushing electric hard, hybrid too but to a much lesser degree. so now I'm worried this might actually be a thing...

nice to see tires getting some proper use! and yeah, looks like it could benefit from a little more negative camber... What car is this on?

Thanks!!! Oh I see… yeah the little blurbs are also in alphabetical order, haha idk if I had a headache like that I’d prolly be in the drug myself and sleep for a day or 2 camp, haha

the left to right is just in alphabetical order... is that what you meant? or the lap times? in the bar graph the minutes and seconds are just converted to second. so like a 1:40 is 60 (seconds in a minute) + 40 = 100 seconds (sorry about the mansplaining) sorry about your migraine...

stagger would actually save money. I could get narrower wheels and tires for the rear. I wouldn't be able to rotate them, but I'd just replace the front tires more often than the rear. the only real "problem" they'd cause is slowing down me trying different tires. also makes it easier to stuff tires under the rear fenders... so thats a nice bonus I got one that tops your Type R story... I had a kid with a Legacy change the oil on his car. So he drained the transmission and filled the engine... so that killed the transmission... and he traded it in for a new Legacy. Which he was planning to do already, just that now he got a lot less for the trade.

naw, you’re not wrong… for most tires 5 years isn't a long time. The 200tw class has been pretty competitive since the Z2 competitors started coming out, that was the tire that really started it all. Well, technically it was the RT615, but things didn’t really start happening till the Z2. The last 5 years, basically since the RE71R, things have been going nuts. Some tires even getting multiple updates in a single year. I don’t see anything about the Z3 being third fastest…?

Yeah the Z2 and Z3 were great tires, especially the Z2 for its time and I’ve had both. It was the first 200tw to give rcomps a run for their money.. and it was a real 200tw so it lasted pretty decent too. But they are pretty dated now, the 200tw club has been through 4-5 generations since the last Z3 update. The Z3 was a hair slower than the RE71R but fell off even quicker. if you look at the tirerack test, the only 200tw tire that’s slower is the tire I’m currently on (which I bought cause at the time they were on special for super cheap, under $100 a tire). Even the 240tw Michelin is faster. Sorry to rain on your parade, the Dunlop is a great tire, it’s just outdated now. I wish Dunlop would update it, it was my first sticky tire so I have a soft spot for them https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=302 (I wish they included the 220tw Goodyear Supercar 3 in this test since they included the 240tw Michelin) but yeah, camber helps a lot in handling… on any tire

yeah, physics and reality is a cruel mistress... haha I'm between Nankang AR-1, Kumho V730, and Goodyear Supercar 3R. AR-1 is at the top of the list, good mix of performance and longevity (track use) but definitely lacking in street-ability if its wet. I've been hearing a lot of good things about the V730, but it is a 200tw. and 200tw tires are basically cheater tires these days. they're either super fast but realistically more like 50tw or something, or they're a real 200tw but then they're not as fast. the biggest draw to the 200tw class is wet weather street-ability but looking at the tread pattern on the V730 its gonna suck in the wet... so might as well get the AR-1, they're about the same price. 3R costs more than the other 2 but its just barely behind a Hoosier, super sticky, 5/32" tread depth thats basically just there to look pretty. also gonna wear the fastest... I'll prolly work my way up to this one. Kinda thinking of this tire as a reward for myself when I can string together most of a session of error free laps. Initial plan was to go with a reverse stagger, 245 or 255 front and 225 rear. But I'm thinking I wanna stay with a square setup now. I get good rotation on turn in, sometimes a bit too good. I'm kinda thinking I may wanna stay closer in grip front to rear. or maybe a small stagger like 255/245. but the downside is it'll be harder to get hear into wider rear tires so it might be even more tail happy till its had a few laps to warm up... Edit: I also kinda wanna get directional wheels so I can swap them on left/right wheels and get more life out of them, but more and more tires are asymmetrical, having an "outside" and "inside" to a tire, so camber wear at a track like the Ridge kills them. tin foil hat on, tire manufactures are doing this on purpose TLDR: I don't know, haha

Went to the track yesterday… the elusive sub 2 still being elusive… really thought between the brakes, seat, and engine mounts I’d get there, but I guess I was wrong. I mean my driving can use some improving, but I don’t think there’s a sub 2 in these tires. A 2:01 for sure, maybe a 2:00…? Tires are the biggest limiting factor now. The session below was late in the day when temps fell like 15-20 degrees. During the day when it’s like 80ish degrees, tires start falling off after 1-2 laps. In the cooler weather they seam that seams to double

nut can't be stuck if the nut is liquid

got my Hasport mounts installed yesterday. good news / bad news situation... enormous improvement, shifting is a gazillion times better. however, still worse than any other Honda I've had. so it still might be the transmission or it might be the shifter cables. I think shifter cables are next on the list. I just can't make up my mind if I should get OEM cables or "upgraded" Hybrid Racing cables. Hybrid Racing are like $400 bucks, OEM are 160-170. Price aside, I'm really nervous about going with an aftermarket option for shift cables. Even if they were the same price I'd feel better about OEM. For me its kinda like the clutch release bearing for some reason, sure get an aftermarket clutch, but always use an OEM release bearing. Which would normally be an easy choice, get OEM... but literally everybody I've talked to that has direct experience with them says the Hybrid Racing ones are better... and say "especially for you" the Hybrid Racing ones are a better choice... so idk... anyway, back to the mounts. NVH increase is basically negligible with the 62A bushings. There's a difference, mostly in the V of NVH, but its not more, just different. If it was someone else's car and I got in and drove it, I'd never suspect the mounts aren't OEM. Super happy with this mod, improvements only, no downside. also had them do Tall Pines Racing trans fluid ( https://www.instagram.com/p/Cunff48NpBe/ ). I've always liked Redline the most in the past... I'll see how this does, but with potential transmission issue not sure how much I can take away from it. And had them check out the brake MC, told them what I did with the bleeding, pushing the pedal all the way to the floor. They said everything looks good and zero leaks. So I think I'm good there. here's an engine bay pic where you can see the mounts... also look cooler than oem. got a track day tomorrow so took the car in to get the oil changed at work (12 bucks for me if I supply my own oil and filter). With the location of the filter I'd happily pay double that. Got some Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and a WIX filter. Here it is waiting for its turn... I was parking a trade and saw them pull it in, so I wanted to stop by and make sure they use my oil. There's prolly like 7-10 lube techs around my car as I'm walking up, the guy just pulled it up on the lift as I'm walking up. And as I'm walking up, I hear one of them say "the fact that he got only the front brakes" and I'm like "why you hating on my brakes?", it was hilarious, it was one of them "he's behind me, isn't he" moments, and I was the guy behind him. I tried to talk to him but the poor guy wouldn't even make eye contact, felt kinda bad for him, didn't mean to sneak up on him like that. But it was still funny, got a good chuckle out of it. anyway, got a track day tomorrow with SCCA Track Nights. Aiming for sub 2. thinking between the brakes, seat, and engine mounts, should be doable. Won't need a cool down lap for the brakes, if nothing else will get me more chanced at setting the lap time. plus more consistent and will be able to brake later. but definitely gonna have to recalibrate my brake foot. its gonna go from foot in as hard as I can and internally screaming "brake harder" to internally screaming "stay off the abs". The tires will definitely not be able to keep up with the brake pads. Engine mounts will help a ton as shifting will be much better. and seat... well... until you've driven in anger with a proper race bucket, I just don't know how to describe it. I think seat alone should be worth a second. also rotated my tires when I did the brakes, front to back and left to right. This track wear right a lot more... the front left had less wear than the right rear, thats saying something for a fwd car. but the biggest difference is the right front tire, which came from the rear left. So the most important tire is the freshest, hoping that helps as well.

I know the intake I got legit adds power, but 70% of the reason I got it was for the vtak noises, haha

ok cool, sounds like my MC is fine then. I'll still put that on the short list... it is 16 years old at this point and they're relatively cheap... I'm pretty sure nobody likes dual mass flywheels, haha

well sh*t... now I'm worried about the MC cause thats exactly how I bled the brakes, haha... how do brake MC's fail? is it a sudden thing or gradual? what are the warning signs? good to know a regular bleed works tho, thanks! thanks! yeah it was kinda wasted when I got it, had like 5-6 dgrees of camber in the rear, stupidly slammed I've always liked TL's, they're sweet, always look good even when the rest of the Acura lineup when down the drain. Even tho SH stands for super handling, that AWD system has always been more about not getting stuck in snow than handling...

I've been gone for quite a while but I've returned to my ricer ways... so I thought I'd share I've gone over to the dark side and I sell cars now, new Subarus and whatever we have used... here's a pic of my daily (sky looked awesome on this day) and here's the rice. picked it up at work after someone traded it in. I was at the desk, colleague comes up and starts telling the manager about the trade... and I'm like manual? Si? DIBS!!! and a week later it was mine. This is how I got it, to me "stock" knock off advans... slammed on crusty function & form coilovers. interior had Bride door panel inserts and shift boot. fender liners were missing cause they got chewed up by the ride height. it was so low that if I made a hard left or right turn the tow hook would scrape yes yes, the sedan is better... and the color is but I got it for less than half market value... so I'm good the tires on this thing were hot garbage, Laufenn... I mean they're ok in the dry, but completely useless in the wet. I could solid burnouts through 4th gear. I'm not talking just some slip when you shift and then get grip, I mean spinning as long as I keep my foot in. So I got some Falken 615k+ tires since they were on sale at the time, paid under 400 for all 4. stayed with the same size at 215/40-17. ended up just sitting in my garage over the winter as I collected fix mods and maintenance and while you're in there parts. List of first round of parts Annex Club coilovers with 8k/14k springs - Speed Academy kinda sold me on these. Well I wanted to go with Fortune Auto 510 but they were like $700 more... Skunk2 rear camber kit with Seals-It heim joint boots. The car already had this on it but it was corrode welded together and couldn't be adjusted anymore Hybrid Racing cold air intake Full-Race 3" catback (multiple resonators, big muffler. no rasp, no drone... car sounds amazing paired with the intake, definitely not your typical straight pipe honda) Hondata Flashpro Hybrid Racing shifter cable bushings Timken front and rear wheel bearings Dorman front hubs ARP extended wheel studs Hybrid racing master and slave cylinder kit. removes dampers and delay valves. master cylinder was dead so I ended up going with a stock EM1 (99-00 civic si) cylinder and it works perfect. Still haven't heard back from Hybrid Racing about this. Whiteline roll center correction kit SuperPro front lower control arm bushings (add caster) New brake rotors all around (whatever was the cheapest) Powerstop track day pads - these are only like 90 bucks, ok entry level pad. I just needed something to hold me over till I got Wilwoods. definitely need something better after you've done a few track days NGK spark plugs Redline trans fluid Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (5W-30 for street and 0W-40 for track) Amsoil DOT4 - had some sealed bottles left over from when I was regularly tracking the Miata These are my "entry level" mods... basically I didn't wanna spend too much money (I know I know) before trying it out at the track and making sure I liked it before going full ham. I hated the RSX cause of its sh*t front suspension. This is supposed to be better in theory with the steering arm moved off the damper and on to the knuckle where it belongs. And it has an LSD stock... Pretty much all of this stuff was purchased on black friday, so I didn't wanna miss out on the deals. The intake, exhaust, flashpro, and shifter bushings wouldn't have been included otherwise for the first round of mods. took all this stuff over to Rich Tuned. Local Honda shop, mostly focus on drag racing, but they do good work. I'm lazy these days, not the biggest fan of working on cars, driving is much more fun. They installed all the stuff, including installing coilovers the "correct" way (see Annex's instructions, all coilovers should be installed like this), car's not slammed anymore, tuned it... it made 226whp and 161 wtq... not bad for a 110k 16 year old engine. here's the dyno sheet: still had the crap tires mounted... this was kinda end of winter, so still lots of rain here in the PNW... did lots and lots and lots and lots of wet burnouts... went from full tread depth tires to cords in like 2 weeks. woulda done try burnouts too but engine mounts are on their way out and I didn't wanna finish them off. Car got much more fun to drive, suspension was ages better... I mean they're no Ohlins like I had on my Miata, but Ohlins doesn't make coilovers for the Civic. This is prolly about as good as you can get for about 2k on coilovers. One big difference was the stock tune free revving throttle map was kinda stupid... it would rev super slow, especially right after a stop. like pulling up to a stop sign and going again right away... I'd basically have to floor it and wait like a full 1-2 seconds before revs would get high enough to start letting out the clutch. I mean it would be ok if you wanna drive like a granny, but I got this car to drive it like a bmw driver... I got my daily for driving like a granny. anyway, after the tune and the mods, it free revs like it should, rev matching and heel-n-toe'ing is much much better. speaking of heel-n-toe'ing, this car has the gas pedal hinged at the bottom. at first I didn't like it cause I thought it was causing my free rev issue, like I'm not pressing the pedal enough or something. now that its behaving like it should, I love the bottom hinged pedal, heelntoes are so easy, pedal is nice and wide, easy to move my foot over, heights match up great. gear ratio's are actually evenly spaced... my miata had a stupid 4th gear, so downshifting from different gears needed a different amount of revs to match... was kinda annoying. anyway, loving the car, time to get an alignment and hit the track. got -2.7 front and -1.3 rear camber. asked for 1/32 toe out front and 1/32 toe in, got toe in on both. firestone caught on and doesn't do lifetime alignments like this anymore. That only applies if you're going for oem spec alignment. So done with firestone. Track day time! Went with SCCA track nights, nice and cheap, good for shake downs... had my gopro and erethang... but I haven't used it in like 3 years so I forgot the wifi password for it so I couldn't connect it to Race Chrono... so no vid... here's a pic: pic credit: https://www.instagram.com/kirkmyhre/ best lap was 2:04.22 best lap on my Miata was 2:01.08... so 3 seconds slower... and try repaved the track since and made it a bit wider in some places, so the track is generally about 1.5-2 seconds faster... so like 4.5-5 seconds slower. But that Miata session my GPS dongle didn't connect so it was using the phones GPS not 10hz dongle. Going off experience that could mean the Miata time is 0-2 seconds skewed to a more impressive laps time... so I'm in the range of 2.5-5 seconds slower... with 50 more hp... but to be fair also about 4-500lb more weight, and 245 R888R's vs the 215 RT615k+ on the Civic. also my first time back at the track in 3 years... super rusty... like suuuper rusty... kinda started getting back into the swing of things by the last session but that only lasted 2 laps and then a kit car in front of me had its trunk fly off (luckily I was far enough back that I was in no danger of hitting it) and that ended the session. more importantly the car kinda felt like sh*t... it understeers pretty bad under power, turn in is kinda lazy... steady state cornering balance is ok... basically more frustrating than anything to drive. but most of that could be blamed on the tires... partially on the degrading engine mounts... partially on the CMC... partially on me being rusty... partially on the alignment... I was really going back and forth on ditching it or trying to improve things. and brakes were inconsistent, but I was pretty much expecting that part. initially springs felt a bit too soft too, but I'm thinking maybe its just me moving around so much in the stock seat? decided to address the alignment and clutch master cylinder. When the Hybrid racing CMC didn't work I had them put the stock one back in. The stock CMC has a damper in it, its kinda ok for street driving, but on the track when everything gets all hot, the damper has more play in it and pushing the clutch pedal to the floor just doesn't fully depress the plunger. Which means I'm grinding every gear at the track. So I got that replaced with the EM1 CMC, instantly felt the difference. The tune had a partial throttle and full throttle vtec engagement. I changed that to be the same, was causing a weird behavior when going from 100% throttle to like 90% throttle. Got one of the techs at work to do an alignment for me after hours (super cheap compared to paying shop prices, shoulda done this the first time) and bleed brakes with some Motul RBF600. Took some convincing but finally talked her into giving me -3.7 camber and 1/32" toe out. She does a lot of rally-cross in a lifted Impreza (I thought it was a Crosstrek for the longest time) and she was like "you don't need this" and I was "track driving is different than rally" and she was like "try left foot braking" and I was like "ok but I still need the alignment" and she was like "fine but still try left foot braking" and I was like "ok I will" I haven't tried left foot braking. but more because I still had the stock seat and I'm using my legs to brace myself in the corners and physically can't... anyway, time for the second track day... got the gopro working this time, here's the vid and pic (pretty sure this pic is on a cool down lap, which is why my hand is on top of the steering wheel) (proportions do look kinda stupid, huh?) went 2:03.41 almost a second quicker... also talked a couple coworkers into going, flyby of them, first one is on the red BRZ, second is on the silver STi. track days are sausage fests, but somehow its easier to talk girls into their first track day than dudes... anyway, both loved it and wanna do it again... not sure when again will be for them, haha more importantly, the alignment transformed the car! turn in is like night and day. there's still a bit of understeer under power, but stickier and wider tires will take care of that. more importantly its doesn't just plow anymore. Rotates well, maybe a little too well... might have to dial a bit of that out. and changing the vtec thing made modulating throttle through a corner much better. CMC change also worked, doesn't grind every shift anymore. I still have to shift kinda slow cause the engine mounts. but anyway, I like the car now, decided to keep it and waste more money on it brake still sorely lacking, super inconsistent, have to do a cool down lap every 2 hot laps (hence the pic during a cool down lap). I'm definitely still rusty, still lack confidence some parts of the track so my driving is also inconsistent. but its coming back... max speed on the front straight was 121-122 and hitting that pretty consistently vs 117-118 last time. I think the car has a sub 2 in it with more consistent brakes and a proper seat. speaking for brakes... about 5 1/4 sessions (track nights is 3 sessions, first day the last session got cut short with the kit car falling apart and this time I got like 2-3 laps in and brakes were done) did this so I got this... I'm not a fan of working on cars, but Wilwoods are finicky... they have this shim bs... so I decided to do this myself (famous last words) install went pretty smooth... adapter bracket is mounted backwards compared to my Miata so it took me a minute to figure out why the caliper wasn't lining up right, and it was close enough that I thought I needed to shim it into place... basically RTFM... The Wilwood BP10 pads that come with the kit are literally the worst pads in existence. The cheapest pads at your local autoparts store are better. So I got some Porterfield R4 pads for these calipers. Its prolly too aggressive of a pad for these tires, but we'll see... might have to get something a bit more mild. Put on some high temp antiseize on the sides of the pad backing plate, the part that slides on the caliper just to keep things lubed up. and my knock off wheels clear quite well. I got 5 and 10mm spacers just in case, turns out I didn't need them. Still put on the 5mm tho to space out the front wheels a bit so they're not so sunk into the fender. the stainless brake lines for the rear were taking longer to ship than the Wilwoods did, so I just left the car in my driveway with the stock calipers disassembled but still connected to the car (foreshadowing). Thinking I'll put on the rear brake lines and connect the front calipers and bleed it all at the same time. Fast forward a week and I'm getting ready to put on the rear brake lines. (excuse the garbage can) <-- thats a joke Put on the right rear. Idk why but I got a stupid (thinking smart at the time) idea... I can't actually bleed my brakes till my neighbor gets home from work since its a 2 person job. So I'm like I put on the new brake line, I'll add some fluid and pump the brake pedal a couple times to push fluid into the caliper. Weird noise came from the master cylinder... I walk around, still fluid in there, I add some more, pump the pedal a couple more times, check fluid again, still good. walk inside to get some water before doing the left rear... and walk out to this well, I took these after connecting the front calipers... and it hits me just how smart my idea was... front oem calipers were hanging there disassembled but still attached with the brake lines... pushed out the pistons and seals and all the fluid drained out, MC is empty... I add some fluid and it just pours right down to the ground. I start freaking out, I'm not supposed to let the MC go dry... hurry up and put on the front brake lines. So I got those on, poured some fluid into there... its not draining anymore (obviously). finished up the rear left line right about when my neighbor got home. He helped me bleed, actually went pretty straight forward. Pedal nice and firm, went for a drive, pedal stays consistent... doesn't feel like there's air in the system, no sponginess. Talked to a couple techs at work, they said in a case like this there's prolly air in the ABS module. Also said that the only way to bleed that is to hook it up to a scan took that has the capability to cycle the ABS module and none of them have that for a Honda. Also they're (previously mentioned tech and her bf, both do rallycross) getting ready for their race weekend and don't have time to work on my car even if they could do something about it. So the next day driving to work I took the Civic and got lucky with an empty highway. I did some high speed (like 90-50) ABS engaging stops, prolly like 3 or 4 of them. ABS kept working fine, pedal still consistent, not sponginess... did I get lucky? Is it possible that I'm ok even with the brake MC going dry? any pro mechanics here wanna chime in? @vetali ? Kinda praying I got lucky somehow... so I ordered a seat bracket like a month before my last track day, but it was on back order, finally shipped the week of the track day... and didn't get delivered till the day of. So I didn't have time to put it in for last time. But I have it now! So I put in my seat last night Had this seat in my Miata... went for a drive and OMG I forgot what a massive difference a good race seat makes! its amazing! I swear it feels like the car has less bodyroll... and with the seat being lower the shifter is suddenly in the perfect position. before 5th gear felt a bit far, was a little annoying... and having Rich Tuned put these in tomorrow I was gonna get Hardrace, they do OEM style mounts just with 150% stiffer rubber. So I was gonna do that and fill the voids with window weld on the torque mount and lower engine mount. But they're on like 4 month back order and I don't wanna wait that long. Did some research and look like Hasport is a good option. Went with the 62A bushings which are the softest. Based on reviews and vids they pretty much don't increase NVH but still reduce engine movement by a ton. And this is coming from good OEM engine mounts, not my shot ones. So I'm pretty excited about this... I'll finally be able to shift quick again. And I'm hoping its the engine mounts causing the shifting issues and not both engine mounts and shot synchros. on the other hand if I need a trans rebuild I can get ITR 4th and 5th gears which would make for much better gearing at my local track... and a better LSD as the stock one is lacking a bit coming out of slow corners... although engine mounts should help with that too... then again I kinda wanna go full stupid and get a sequential... who knows, we'll see. For now I'm hoping this fixes the shifting issues and there's no air in my brakes. got another track day coming up Wednesday, fingers crossed for sub 2. I'll keep using these wheels and tires till they wear out. plan is to get Konig Ultraform in 17x9 and 17x8 and do a 245/225 reverse stagger tire setup. Also toying with going to 18's... Clearance in the front is kinda lacking in this car tho. so I'm thinking of going to a 1" shorter front spring to make more clearance. Would go to a 10k instead of the current 8k too. maybe a shorter helper spring too? to help shorten the spring stack. on the other hand I'm not sure if 1" shorter will be enough, so it'd be dumb to give up spring length and not gain any clearance. the wider tires will be a little taller than the current.. and even more taller if I went to 18's. not sure what I'm gonna do here yet.

I may have done a poor job explaining what I meant. I'm not talking about pushing your car to the very limit, which can sometimes lead to some drama. I'm all for that, push it to the max. Honestly I'd like to see 1 or 2 races on a calendar where all the teams use the same tire which doesn't degrade in the length of the race so drivers don't have to race with preserving tires in mind. What I meant was specifically when Senna is trying to pass another driver, Senna would basically constantly do what Lewis did to Max at Silverstone. Except a lot of times both drivers would end up crashed out instead of getting lucky. Basically he would pass people like he's entitled to every pass, like he's passing back markers... here's an example, similar to what happened at Silverstone but more cut and try... Senna's front wheel never even passed Prost's rear. I do agree with Senna's complaint about starting position... top qualifier should always get the optimal starting spot on the track. If the right is better than thats where the top qualifier should start.

do you have any idea how much difference tires make? sure Lewis caught up to him on one of the straights, but once they have to turn the tires just aren't capable of matching the speed, let alone passing. as far as making his car wide and not letting Max overtake, he can't take the same kinds of risks Checo took because if both Max and Lewis crash out, Max takes the championship. Honestly I was surprised Lewis took the risks he did when trying to pass Checo, cause remember if the crash Max wins. If I was in Lewis's shoes I would have just waited for next laps easy pass in the DRS zone instead of fighting the whole lap. I know Senna was a good driver and all, but I don't like the guy. He was a whiney b*tch like Hamilton is, he had a massive god complex, and he drove like an asshole... his method of passing was you either yield and change your line to let me pass or we both crash. Thats not skill, thats bully and god complex and spoiled brat entitlement all wrapped into one (kinda like Lewis's "tHatS daNGeRoUS dRiVInG" comment when he was trying to pass Checo). Prost > Senna all day every day. And for the record, most of Senna's wins came when he had a dominate car too... He was still a good driver tho, no 2 ways about that. But also an a$$hole. So like Lewis, I don't like him but he's a great driver. Anyway, its obvious we're not gonna agree on this, so I guess I'm done with the Hamilton debate.