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DarkMedic

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  1. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to RonnieOP in Is Sata 3.0 same as PCIe Gen 3.0 x4, NVMe 1.3?!?!?!   
    The sata port on your motherboard is a data port. A sata connector on your power supply is for power.
     
    If your are talking about a rgb hub they are just powered by sata. They have nothing to do with the sata ports on your mobo.
     
    The two different sata ports are physically different. You wouldnt even be able to hook a rgb hub to a mobos sata port if you tried.
     
    Also anything you buy will have a manual. Read them carefully and you will have no issues.
  2. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to SavageNeo in Is Sata 3.0 same as PCIe Gen 3.0 x4, NVMe 1.3?!?!?!   
    yes
     
    sata cable to psu to ssd/hdd/other.
  3. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to AndreiArgeanu in 7 ARGB Fans   
    It doesn't work the same, The corsair iCUE is for corsair products like their fans or aios. MSI Mystic Light if for MSI products and there is a list of products that support in on their website https://www.msi.com/Landing/mystic-light-rgb-gaming-pc/ at the bottom of the page. And ARGB is RGB for Cooler Master stuff, I'm not sure whether they have software or it's controlled by a remote.
     
  4. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to MartinKweh in Is this extremely big?   
    it is pretty big. for me it matches the aesthetics so why not.  though check if the performance of the cooler is good especially if you have a zen 2 cpu as it will affect your boost clocks pretty hard.
  5. Funny
    DarkMedic reacted to MartinKweh in Is this extremely big?   
    wanna see something big? i literally just threw everything in lol. ignore the cable management as i got lazy fixing the fan and pump wires from the AIO
  6. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to GUVII in 7 ARGB Fans   
    The nice thing about coolermaster it is compatible with direct hookup to the motherboard via 3pin 5v ARGB setup, yay.
    The problem with Corsair is the connection to their fans like UL, and LL fans are proprietary, so you will either need a splitter, from 1 to 2, or buy a second hub.
     
    Coolermaster can use its own hub, should come with one in the case, the software will load up and save what ever profile you put onto the controller, once set, you don't need to run 'Mastercool' program in the background. Corsair doesn't do this and requires the software to run in the background, also known as iQUE.
  7. Agree
    DarkMedic reacted to WereCatf in 10gb/s ethernet   
    Only if you have a 10Gbps Internet-connection. Hint: you almost certainly do not.
    You need to buy a 2.5Gbps or 10Gbps PCI-E NIC, yes.
     
    Now, I have a question for you: do you actually have any use for such? Do you e.g. have a NAS with 2.5Gbps (or faster) NIC? It'd be pointless to upgrade, if you don't actually have any use for it.
  8. Agree
    DarkMedic reacted to Ulol60 in 10gb/s ethernet   
    He lives in Signapore, and that city/country is known for having one of the best and highest internet speeds in the world so he probs do. 
  9. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to Jurrunio in Thermal paste really matters?   
    It can but apart from some really terrible ones, the gains are mostly for something else. Some paste can be so thin that they spill all over the place if you use a tiny bit too much, while others can stick so well after they dry that with PGA sockets (e.g. Ryzen), the CPU comes out with the cooler when you take the cooler off.
  10. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to 5x5 in Thermal paste really matters?   
    It does. Worst past I've seen has been an amazing 20*C hotter than the good pastes likes AS5 
  11. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to WereCatf in Thermal paste really matters?   
    A couple of degrees, so not an enormous amount, and it mostly matters to overclockers. You can always build your PC with whatever stock paste the CPU-cooler comes with and later on swap it out to something else, if you wish.
  12. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to Dedayog in Thermal paste really matters?   
    It does within 5 degrees from best to worst, of the main pastes.  it's been tested roughly a billion times, check Youtube.
  13. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to WereCatf in Thermal paste really matters?   
    Noctua NT-H2 is the best there is atm.
  14. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to Dedayog in Thermal paste really matters?   
    Arctic MX-4 Thermal Paste- Best Overall. Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Paste- Best Silver Compound. Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound- Best for Laptop. Cooler Master MasterGel Maker Nano Thermal Paste- Best for Laptop. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste- Best for Overclocking. Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound. https://thermogears.com/best-thermal-pastes/
     
    Edit:  I use what came on my AIO.  They're all within a few degrees.
  15. Funny
    DarkMedic reacted to Dedayog in Thermal paste really matters?   
    No, I got my list from the internet.  I win.
  16. Funny
    DarkMedic reacted to WereCatf in Thermal paste really matters?   
    Your list doesn't even include NT-H2.
  17. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to WereCat in Thermal paste really matters?   
    Yes different thermal paste have different efficiency so it will affect the temperatures by a very small margin. Unless you are trying to push the overclock as much as possible you shouldnt really care.
    Often a good application of a thermal paste will make the temperatures drop significantly more than just using a better paste with bad application.
  18. Funny
    DarkMedic reacted to Dedayog in Thermal paste really matters?   
    I knew you were going to notice that
     
  19. Funny
    DarkMedic reacted to WereCatf in Thermal paste really matters?   
    Well, I'll try to remember to let you win the next one 😘
  20. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to Jurrunio in What is this?   
    Matisse = Zen 2 based CPU (R5 3600)
    Picasso = Zen+ based CPU (R5 2600)
    Pinnacle Ridge = Zen+ based APU (R5 3400G)
    Summit Ridge = Zen based CPU (R5 1400)
    Raven Ridge = Zen based APU (R5 2400G)
     
    Not exactly, it depends on the CPU's architecture.
  21. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to minibois in What is this?   
    Matisse, Picasso, etc. is the different generations of AMD AM4 CPU's.
     
    Ryzen 1000: Summit Ridge
    Ryzen 2000 with graphics (like 2200G, 2400G): Raven Ridge
    Ryzen 2000: Pinnacle Ridge
    Ryzen 3000 with graphics (like 3200G, 3400G, etc.): Picasso
    Ryzen 3000: Matisse
    The Ryzen APU's have their own codename and use the architecture of the generation before.
    (e.g. a 3200G is Zen+ based and Picasso)
  22. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to SavageNeo in What is this?   
    They are code names for different ryzen cpu generation. 
    Matisse is Zen 2, meanin 3rd gen ryzen (r3 3200g, r5 3600, r7 3700x, r9 3900x etc)
    Picasso is Zen  2sn gen ryzen (r3 2200g, r5 2600, r7 2700x etc)
    Pinnacle Ridge is 1 st gen ryzen (r3 1200, r 5 1600, r7 1700)
     
     
     
  23. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to Letgomyleghoe in Hydro dipping parts?   
    Spray paint is good, just make sure it gets dried as @SansVarnic said
     
    Hydro dipping PC parts can be tricky especially if it's your first time hydro dipping in the first place, it can make your parts look like shit if you don't know what your doing, your better off with spray paint and a stencil design.
     
    But don't let your dreams be dreams! 
    If you really want to, try practicing hydro dipping other objects till you feel comfortable with them and then work on your PC parts.
  24. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to Eschew in Hydro dipping parts?   
    Hey there. These may or may not help:
    This thread is about general mods of all shapes, sizes, and components. Scroll down to the "Painting" section. There's a section on general painting, plasti-dipping, and painting individual components. However, I don't think there's a section on hydro-dipping. It might be worth a look if you want to know which parts should or should not be fiddled with.
     
    This thread on case modding has a... funny layout. Just keep clicking on the spoilers at the end of the first post until you come across the painting section. Sadly I don't think there's a section on hydro-dipping here either.
     
     
  25. Informative
    DarkMedic reacted to SolarNova in How should i choose my monitor?   
    In response to the title the answer is 4ms
     
    Now more seriously ... the advertised specs in regards to response time should for the most part be ignored. They are hugely misleading to the point where u could grab 10 different monitors all with the same advertised response time and they would all be vastly different.
     
    A better, though still generalized, way of determining response speed and level of blur/ghosting is to find out what panel type a display is using.
    A VA panel for example WILL have blur/ghosting regardless of how fast the response time is advertised. This is because VA panel technology has issues with dark transitions which will be slower , by a big margin, than the other transitions.
    While a TN will generally have a much faster response time and far less blur/ghosting.
     
    But ofc each panel has its critical faults. and if u comparing two displays using the same panel it doesnt really help.
     
     
    For accurate response time figures u need to find tested reviews, like those form rtings.com,  tftcentral.co.uk,  and pcmonitors.info
     
    If u cant find a tested review for the monitors ur interested in then your SOL im afraid.
     
    One easy thing i can tell u is that no IPS has a 1ms response speed ..none. Even the fastest 240hz 1080p IPS panels that have only just released are no where near 1ms. As i said, advertised response speed specs are hugely misleading.
     
    Below is a link to one of the fastest IPS 240hz displays out, and it averages 4.1ms using a 10% to 90% measurement and a 8.4ms on a full 0% to 100% measurement.
    https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/acer/nitro-xv273x
     
    Easiest analogy i can explain the above statement is if u were to measure som1 doing a 100meter sprint, u would be expect to start the stopwatch the moment the gun went of and stop it the moment the runner crossed the line, thats a 0% to 100% measurement.
    A 10% to 90% measurement is if u started the stopwatch at 10meters and stopped it at 90meters.
     
    Manufacturers like to use something similar to the 10% to 90% method, sometimes a 0% to 80%. They also cherry pick the single fastest transition, not the average of all transitions, and also use the maximum level of overdrive and ignore any overshoot. This is a totally unrealistic use case and only uses a single transition..the fastest transition. This way they are 'technically' and 'legally' telling the truth in the advertised specs, but like i said, they are hugely misleading.
     
    So, don't go by the specs, go by trusted 'tested' reviews.
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