davidrf

Thanks a lot!

I gagged when thinking about how bottom of the barrel TSMC 4nm silicon that chip will end up, let alone the RTX 4060.

Whats the purpose for it?
 
The main issue with this card is that it's VERY expensive for a 70 series card. Way overpriced really AND that it only has 12gb of vram.
 
Considering we are already maxing 8gb with relative easy even at 1080p that 12gb of vram isn't a lot.
 
If it's purely gaming the 7900xt is a very attractive look.

no i think it will not even go in a computer that new. the nvidia geforce 3 series is from 2001 and was agp. it is far too slow as well

Yup, the 700€ amount is not in range, you either reduce to 500€ to normal 4K display, or increase the budget to 1000€. 
 
For 500€, you may consider Gigabyte M32U. 
 
For more best 4K gaming monitor
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/gaming-monitors-4k

Don't worried, 3080 is very well capable gaming on 4K, I am using it with 5900X and I still get average in between 50 ~ 100 fps in AAA titles with maximum settings.
For DLSS titles, you may need to choose between balanced, performance or quality, setting to off will have impact on fps. 
 
I recommended you check on Samsung Odyssey Neo G7 or Neo G8, both is 32" 4K Mini-LED VA panel with 1196 local dimming zone and HDR1000 capable.

Thanks, all of those options look very nice. The problem is it must have ITA layout (italian) since I'm gonna use it for work too and I'm a part time journalist (so i really can't have US or other layouts).

Thanks a lot but I'll wait. I'm buying a 3080 in the next weeks, so the issue will be solved with that!

It's likely your system's total power consumption exceeds your UPS. When looking at the manual briefly it's shown it can load up to 400W. Not an expert which UPS to recommend but you probably need at least 1100VA for simulated sine wave UPS, or 750VA pure sine wave.

Thanks to everyone, I found out the problem. It was mainly the GPU! I just had to re-seat that and the crashes were gone. In the meantime though I replaced the Cryorig H5 with a Thermalright PA 120 SE and even if I used the stock thermal paste with the PA, temperatures went down about 10/15° (!) compared to the Cryorig H5. Wow. Now I reached a maximun of 77° after half an hour of PUBG.
 
It's all fine and dandy now, except for the PSU error: it still makes a very long beep every now and then, with a red light on. I guess it is not powerful enough for the wattage I have now? Thanks.

I am obviously the real Jeremy Clarkson!  I did manage to build my own 7700x - 32GB ddr5 and 4080 rig without problems.  I did use a hammer to get the DDR5 modules installed. SPEED AND POWWEEER

Ironically, I've been having significant black screen + crashing issues with my Gigabyte 2080 Super as well... and I have seen some others complain about it too.

There is a good chance the card is on its way out. I am not sure what the cause is, as I was not able to fix mine. This seems to be exhibiting the same symptoms, somewhat.
 
At the very least: The card by default turns off the fans below about 55C so it is in silent mode. You can override this fan curve with MSI Afterburner or any other GPU overclocking program. But based on the black screen thing, the card is probably dying.

Arctic 280mm AIO, any 360mm AIO, any 420mm AIO. Eventually a dual tower cooler like the Thermalright Peerless Assassin.

Ok, when its on the right side only, it can`t be the power supply, like you just found out. Please make a photo of your card, i have an idea, but want to know, if this could work for you, first.
 
Oh, and is it on all outputs? if not, only the headphone one, or the line one?

What about repairing it? If you can record that noise, maybe i can help you troubleshoot it.
On the pictures of it, i can see something on the top right, that looks like a DC/DC converter and there are two electrolytic capacitors (marked CE76 and CE74 on this picture Pic), which i would really try to replace before thinking about anything else.
Maybe cou can find somebody in your area who can do this for you or just try yourself.
 
Edit: You mentioned, you are in Europe. If you are in Germany or close to it, get in contact and i replace these capacitors for you. All you might lose is a broken card and the money to get it to me.

Both those will work great. Get the one that has all the features you need and you think looks the best. 

The best stack imo for producers at $200 is the atom stack by JD's labs . One of the most neutral stacks not the best built or the most powerful but it's reliably neutral should pair well with the HD 600. If you want something a little less neutral and add a bit of color you have the schiit stack if you want even more color sub out the amp on either stack for a monoprice liquid spark by far the most unique sounding amp in any $100 amp list and I guess the earmen Donald dac which is a warm sounding dac.

JDS Labs Atom Stack
Schiit Stack
Topping Stack
SMSL Stack
 
So many good options for amp/dac stacks in the $200ish price range. I would look into JDS Labs first. Probably best bang for your buck. Also Topping DX3 Pro+ if you don't want a stack would be a good option in your price range

Following because I use an stx ii for my digital piano, and one year will share the same question. 
 
Looking up the same a year ago, anyway, there was nothing new that was superior.  My main gripe is the driver support for the six ii is truly awful.  
 
EVGA had some hot and sexy new audio card but it didn't actually improve on the stx ii and didn't have the outputs I required for my speakers.
 
It may be that we have to go to external DACs in the future.

monitors improve quite slowly, the 3011 is a professional monitor with an old ahips panel (which i'm still using). 
 
The cheap equivalent of that is the pa243w (80% rec2020) for 24inch, or the pa271q for 27inch, the color improvements are...ok on paper, but it draws way less power than the older models. The monitors cost 700 and 1200 respectively. I consider these to be updated version of your 3011
 
the current top panel with hdr thrown in is the pa27ucx at about 85% rec2020 at around 3k usd, This will be a true upgrade by forcing hdr  (the apple one might be a bit better, i dont know the model #)
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1570527-REG/asus_pa27ucx_k_27_mini_led_4k.html
 
There are miniled monitors that are coming out that has 90% rec2020 coverage for both gaming and professional use at 5k-7k usd
https://finance.sina.com.cn/tech/2020-11-28/doc-iiznctke3706701.shtml the leaks are in chinese, leaked prices were on a separate post
 
Personally if you can afford the 2021 models i recommend just waiting.
 
Edit: The LG CX/C9 OLED tvs gets really close for an affordable price for non-hdr content, think it was 1400usd for a 46inch if you need a larger panel that looks decent.

Depends on the manufacture date, really. That phone came out about 18 months ago. If the battery discharged in say 6 months and has been sitting depleted for another 12 months, you may be looking at something like 90-95% health out of the box.

P30 Pro has Google Apps and everything, since it's a 2019 model. At least, here in Europe it's like that. 100% sure!

That message is basically saying "You're running outside of the bounds the manufacturer has set.. etc. etc." but I have never heard of any case of someone breaking RAM because of DOCP (or the Intel/AMD quivalents XMP or A-XMP).
It's more of a legal message.
 
I personally probably wouldn't turn on PBO, because the performance difference will be minimal in most workloads.
Other than DOCP and boot order, there is not much to do in the BIOS

Glad it works bud, have fun with your new system!!

Well I don't know what to say. Today I tried again booting it up (without any changes made from yesterday) and well, it didn't boot. THEN almost for no reason I tried too boot again with a USB Win10 bootable stick inserted... WELL, it did boot! WTF? Then at the Windows 10 install screen I shut down the system, tried to boot again without the USB, and from that time on it always booted with no problems. I then updated the bios (it was from february 2019!) and I proceeded to install Windows 10, no problems whatsoever, everything perfect.
 
 I'm puzzled to say at least.