Niber

update: Turned out it was just that the HDMI switch can't handle long cables (even if that same cable works for the monitor, it doesn't work if going through the hdmi switch)

That worked ,tahnks! Talk about confusing wording lol (and requires restart)

I've been searching high and low but all I can find info on is how to hide the LOWER menu, but the problem is that my external OLED monitor (which is black 90% of the time as I only use it as reference monitor) is showing that annoying UPPER toolbar is there any way I can hide the UPPER one?

My soundcard (Rotel RA-1572MKII) is connected by USB to a Macbook Pro M2, but the volume bar is greyed out, can I really not control the volume? When I have the same soundcard connected to my Windows 11 PC, I can easily adjust the volume with the regular Windows volume controls. If I can't control it with the Mac, I will have to reach over to the soundcard-knob constantly (I tend to adjust hte volume all the time, control freak I guess) There doesn't seem to be any installable drivers for it either.

Thanks I looked into that now. Maybe it's the solution, I'm not sure, seems like there's quite a bit of explanation involved and means everyone needs their own Spotify account,

I haven't set this decision in stone yet, but the abovely reocmmended Spotify Jam features makes me think maybe I'll fully convert to Spotify

I have my house music system hooked up to my PC, but for parties there's always someone who wants to chose music, but there's just no way in H that I will leave my PC/phone unlocked just to allow that (for security reasons) is there a proper way to deal with this? I'm a bit of a boomer so I've actually never tried any of these Chromecasts and stuff (did a quick search but seems Chromecast audio is outdated?) I was planning on retiring my old laptop to be a kind of "family computer" void of anything private, so that any visitor can do whatever they want on that computer, but unfortunately that plan failed as I no longer have that laptop availible. The ideal solution would be one that is self-explanatory so I don't have to explain to people how to change the music

It wouldn't be a Microsoft thing, but up to the monitor companies. Like I said my 2012 monitor has a software that comes with the monitor that let's you control the brigthness from the keyboard

is your room not brighter during midday sun than at night?

When I'm using a laptop, my fingers are constantly adjusting the brightness of the screen by pressing the brightness up and down button. For example if there's a white window (like this forum) I turn down the brightness, if I'm watching some (SDR) movie I'll crank the brightness back up. I probably do this more than I even adjusting the sound volume, it's great, i love this level of fast control. But then when I'm forced to use desktop I'm just baffled by the lack of this super basic functionality. if I want to change the brightness on a desktop I have to reach over to the monitor, click like 6 buttons to find the right menu then hold a button to slowly adjust the brightness, it's ridicolus. Back in 2010 I used to have a monitor that came with a software so that you could adjust the brightness with a key. This software ACTUALLY sent this signal through USB to the external monitor to change the brightness there, so it wasn't some kind of software dimming. but nowadays I never see this functionality in monitors any more Am I missing something obvious here? I know about F.lux and stuff like that, but I don't want to software dim, I want the actual monitor/TV settings to adjust its brightness output, just like how they do on laptops

Hi, I bought 2 different powerbanks for traveling, but they both have the same problem: It thinks I'm trying to charge my laptop, but I'm wanting to do vice versa. The Usb-C socket is both for input and output. So if I plug the wall charger into the USB-C it will charge the pwoerbank, and if I use that same socket with my smartphone it will charge my smartphone. There doesn't seem to be any way of telling it specifically if I want to use it as input or output. When I'm out traveling I try to not bring any wall chargers, I try to just use my laptop for all things charging. In this case a Macbook Pro 14" M2 (2023), but if I can't find a solution to this it means I have to start carrying an extra wall charger with me as well.

Thank you that turned out to solve the issue. I'm not sure why the other cable worked on PC but not for the Mac, but in either case an optical cable solved it, it was just a bit difficult to source where I live

No i haven't tried optical, I'm tempted to but they are quite expensive and would take so long delivery time where I live. if a PC were acting up with hdmi 2.1, I would simply have set the framerate lower, so that at least I could experience 60fps hdr (or as low as 24), but the mac won't let me because it disconnects the second monitor before I have a chance to change the setting

I have a Samsung s95b OLED TV with a 2.1 HDMI cable, when I plug that into my PC I get 120p 4k HDR, but when I plug that exact same cable into the macbook it just goes into an endless loop of detecting the TV for a second then dissconnecting, over and over again or.. if I turn off the hdmi 2.1 setting on the TV then it works from the Mac, but then the HDR button dissapears (from the Mac settings) and the framerate goes up to only 60. I've tried with 3 different HDMI cables. I will admit that HDMI 2.1 cables are super finniky, the slightest bit of extra twist on them can downgrade them into hdmi 2.0 specs, but I think that isn't what's happening here.

Thanks for the help, I've done a video now to try to expose others from getting scammed by this

Edit: Can delete, it's currently looking like I'm going to get a refund from the seller So (as written in previous thread) ASUS has scammed me by selling me a laptop with "Brand new 16-inch QHD Mini LED Nebula HDR Display 1100 nits" for 5500 NZ$ which turned out to be just the regular "Nebula Display" (not the mini-LED one) that they simply falsely advertised. I'm unlikely to be able to get a refund for this (New Zealand have poor customer protection laws), and even if I did, I can't seem to find any other gaming laptops that can be charged from a 100W USB-C charger (I need to charge it from my Tesla) so maybe I'm stuck with this laptop anyway. My question is, has anyone had any experience with the "Nebula HDR", is it much better than the "Nebula Display"? I'm fully aware that MiniLED is an awesome tech (I have it on my G9 Neo) but that doesn't necessarily mean that ASUS's implementation of that tech is good, I've only seen Samsung MiniLED not ASUS miniLED. I'm trying to see if I'm really missing out on much. I suspect I am (as MiniLED is awesome even for SDR) but I'm hoping that maybe I'm not missing out on much

Interesting, when I google it I get the NZ sales pages that claims: "- Brand new 16-inch QHD Mini LED Nebula HDR Display, 16:10 aspect ratio, 240Hz/3ms, and 100% DCI-P3" https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/NBKASU6344040/ASUS-ROG-Strix-SCAR-16-G634JZ-N4040W-RTX-4080-Gami However I think you're right, that the actual specifications for this laptop are different, and ASUS has just "accidentally" sent out the wrong specifications. Ok I will try to get a refund, thank you

Edit: Now that I know how shady ASUS are I've made a video to expose this I bought a ASUS ROG Strix SCAR 16 G634JZ-N4040W because it was advertised as MiniLED and I need a high quality monitor I can preview footage on when I'm out, however I'm really suspecting that Asus is outright lying about everything. I've found that there are 2 main models of the ASUS ROG Strix SCAR 16: g634J: This is the one I have, advertised as 1100 nits, MiniLED, HDR. G614: This is the UK version where if you read the fine-print you will see that it's just a regular IPS monitor at 500 nits. (but if you've been reading reviews of the regular G16 you're fooled into believing that you're buying a high quality monitor.) Luckily mine is supposedly the good one, and the sales page I brought mine from very specifically mentions 1100 nits, MiniLED, HDR. However it sure feels like I have still gotten a terrible monitor: 1) Can't enable HDR in Windows: Sources say there's a driver bug currently, but I've tried the old driver and HDR is still "not supported". 2) Monitor measures less than 500 nits, not 1100. (but maybe that's just because HDR isn't on) 3) The control panel is supposed to have a button for switching between multi-zone vs single-zone mini-LED, but mine doesn't have any such option. 4) Most importantly, the black level on my monitor are terrible. I put it next to my G9 Neo which is also miniLED and the laptop feels like it's from 2004, as the G9 has dark black levels but the laptop is grey with tons of IPS glow. I'm really hoping that maybe it's still a driver error, which has put the multi-zone setting into single-zone. But it's starting to sink in that I may have gotten scammed by Asus into buying an old monitor tech.

lol i suppose oh interesting, thanks!

It seems like McAfee is pre-installed on everything these days (certainly is on my Asus laptop where the only way to remove this malware is to reinstall the computer and pray Asus doesn't sneak it back in with a driver install), and if you're lucky enough to have a computer that doesn't have it pre-installed it seems that every app tries to force it on you, such as Adobe trying to sneak it in with every installation of Adobe Reader. I can only assume that McAfee is paying all these companies for this privilege, but I don't understand why such enormous companies like Adobe would be so interested in it

oooh.. hours of research and this never came up, very glad I asked here. Thanks!

When I first got my computer last year I think the 256gb of ram was working, as I vaguely remember making a Unreal scene big enough to see if I can cross over 128gb. But nowadays my memory shows up like this: half of it being "hardware reserved", I think this problem might have started when I upgraded to Win11 from Win10 (and reinstalled the computer) last week. The only thing I'm doing in Bios is turning on the XMP to make the RAM faster, but I've tried turning off the XMP and have the same problem. I've followed all the "fix hardware reserved" tutorials I can find (turning off boot limit etc) What makes me worried is that in the motherboards supported memory list my exact memory isn't listen (but many similar memory from Corsair), but hopefully that just means they haven't tested it but that it should still work. Operating System Windows 11 Home 64-bit CPU AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3960X 46 °C Castle Peak 7nm Technology RAM 256GB DDR4 @ 1600MHz (16-20-20-38) Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. TRX40 AORUS XTREME (SP3r2) 31 °C Graphics QBQ90S (3840x2160@60Hz) LS49AG95 (5120x1440@144Hz) 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 (ASUStek Computer Inc) 25 °C Optical Drives No optical disk drives detected Audio Rotel PC-USB Audio 2.0 Showing up like this in Speccy: Memory slots Total memory slots 8 Used memory slots 8 Free memory slots 0 Memory Type DDR4 Size 262144 MBytes DRAM Frequency 1066.4 MHz CAS# Latency (CL) 15 clocks RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD) 15 clocks RAS# Precharge (tRP) 15 clocks Cycle Time (tRAS) 36 clocks Bank Cycle Time (tRC) 51 clocks Command Rate (CR) 2T Physical Memory Memory Usage 9 % Total Physical 128 GB Available Physical 116 GB Total Virtual 128 GB Available Virtual 111 GB SPD Number Of SPD Modules 8 Slot #1 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table Slot #2 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table Slot #3 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table Slot #4 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table Slot #5 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table Slot #6 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table Slot #7 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table Slot #8 Type DDR4 Size 32768 MBytes Manufacturer Corsair Max Bandwidth DDR4-2132 (1066 MHz) Part Number CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 SPD Ext. XMP Timing table

I tried those things but unfortunately didn't make a difference. thx anyway

Oh I guess that makes sense, that 1080p for that simple interior scene is such an easy scene that the CPU becomes the bottleneck due to its single-threaded performance. I'll try to do some more demanding GPU tests up next. Also some good news is that atleast Davinci Resolve marks the desktop as the clear winner:

Laptop: 99% Desktop: 80%