Hoss81

My saga continues. I've been building PCs since the early 00s and I've never been this close to taking it to someone to fix. I'm just lost. For a brief recap: Purchased open box 5900x from microcenter. Had 2700x and Asus B450 mobo that had been working great for about 18 months. Turned it off, swapped chips, turned it back on and it wouldn't boot. Put the 2700x back in, and it booted, and I checked the firmware, turns out it needed updated. I updated the firmware, restarted to make sure it took, then turned off the system and swapped CPUs again. On the next boot I got a TPM error, I hit No on the options and it rebooted a few times, ultimately taking me back to the BIOS. I hit YES on the same Tpm error screen (no, I don't remember the error) and then it got stuck in a boot loop. I'd see the windows loading screen for a few seconds and then it would restart. Out the 2700x back in, and was getting a red CPU error on the mobo. Fast forward to today, I picked up a 570 MSI board on Prime day. Spent all morning undoing cable management and zip ties, then putting the new board in. Start it up and it's doing basically the same thing. Bios will load, but then it just gets stuck in a boot loop. So, running out of ideas I formatted my M.2 drive that had the OS on it, and created a windows boot USB drive. Once again, I'm just stuck in this non stop boot loop. I am completely out of ideas at this point. I have followed all of the suggestions and it's gotten me nowhere. Should I try purchasing another CPU? Should I buy a new M.2 and see if that solves it? I've never had any issue like this so I don't know what to do. Was really hoping the new Motherboard and formatting the M.2 would get me somewhere.

Sadly still no dice on this. I can get to the BIOS, but the machine will just not start windows. On ASUS UEFI Bios Utility I have these settings

My PC has been working smoothly for a long while on the 2700x ryzen chip. I scored a open box 5900x today from the local micro center and, as expected, it has ruined my day. I have a Asus B450 F gaming mobo, 32GB G.Skill DDR3000, RTX 3080, and previously 2700x CPU. Round 1: I removed the 2700x and installed the 5900x. Go to boot, and the mobo is giving me a DRAM yellow error light. I know there is nothing wrong with the RAM, as it has worked for years. I remove the 5900x and re-install the 2700x, manually check and update the BIOS. The bios on the Mobo was from 2019, even though I had used Asus utility to check for updates right before I switched the chips the first time. Round 2: I removed the 2700x and installed the 5900x a second time. Go to boot, and I get a page message about fTPM. 'Press Y to reset fTPM. If you have Bitlocker or encryption enabled, the system will not boot without a recovery key. Press N to keep previous fTPM record and continue system boot. fTPM will not enable in new CPU, you can swap back to the old CPU to recover TPM related keys and data' I select N and the system reboots back to that same menu, select N again and it does the same. Hit Y, and the system reboots and I get to the windows menu.........for a split second, then it goes back to the ASUS ROG mobo background. From here, it is stuck in a loop, going back and forth between the ROG mobo background and 1-2 seconds of the windows loading screen, and then it resets. Turn the computer off by holding the power button, turn it back on, load optimized defaults on the mobo, and the next error I get is a MBR Error 1. Round 3: Turn the PC off, unplug all of my SATA drives (OS is on my M.2 drive), turn back on, and now I'm stuck in the windows/ROG mobo background loop once again. I'm at a loss at this point. I have enough thermal paste for 1 more application, so I'm tempted to throw the 2700x back in and see if it will at least work like it did before for the night. I next day ordered some more thermal paste off of Amazon, will try it again over the long weekend. Anybody have any suggestions on what to try next? The thought has crossed my head that it's a bad 5900x (Hence the return to Microcenter) and that is what is causing the problems.

Thanks, that's a nice option. Wish they made them in a white housing.

I have recently built a new PC and I am in need of 3 120mm fans for the pull side of my front mount radiator. I have a B450 Gaming mobo and it has 2 - 4 pin 12v RGB headers. I control a RGB light strip as well as the Built in ROG RGB logo of the MOBO through the Asus Aura app. I have spent a good bit of time trying to find fans and every one I research is a 5v 3 pin RGB connector, even though the fan will state it is Aura compatible. There must be something I am missing because this doesn't make any sense to me. Does it sync to Aura via some app? And for the final kicker, the fans need to be white and the blades need to light up. Because I'll be using these fans on the back side (Pulling) of a front mount 360 radiator, a front RGB ring won't do me any good. So far I like the Corsair QL's, the Thermaltake Ring Quad's. I also like the look of the Coolermaster Master fan Halo White. Any help would be appreciated. I'm starting to think that maybe I have to buy a RGB controller that syncs through some proprietary app, because it doesn't look like anything but a LED strip will plug into those 12v 4 pin headers on the mobo.

LOL, A SAE thread size measured in length with metric. What the actual F. Does no-one else see the ridiculousness in that?

I recently purchased my first AIO, a EVGA CLC 360. I am running a push/pull with fans on both sides of the radiator and I am in need of screws. The EVGA website says 3mm, so I ordered 3mm radiator screws from amazon and they were too small. So then I did some more searching and found that they were probably 4mm, so I purchased some really neat 4mm "studs" from Koolance, and they are too big. So, what the heck size is left? Are they SAE? I figured that would be impossible as I'm sure all this stuff is made in china. Very annoying, I have my front fans mounted with 2 screws each because my mobo only came with 6 and the CLC of course only came with the 12 for the stock fans.

CPU: Ryzen 2700x GPU(s): ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo Average FPS: 91.5 Score: 3827 Screenshot of valley, GPU-Z and CPU-Z attached

Hello LTT folks, I recently found myself the proud owner of a used 1080 ti. A buddy of mine works at a local school and their engineering department just recently did some upgrades while school is out thanks to this whole covid mess. Anyway, he hooked me up with a stupid deal on the 1080 ti. Here is my issue. I have a old Corsair HX620 PSU. It is semi-modular but it was built before the 8pin PCI-E power cable was popular. I have 2x 6 pin PCI-e cables that come out of the PSU, but that's all I have. Currently I am running those 2x6 pin into the supplied dual 6 pin to 8 pin adapter that came with my 1080. Now, I need both a 8 pin and a 6 pin. I have plenty of headroom on my PSU as I'm currently only drawing about 280-298 watts on the entire system. I have 2 sata drives that run off of a single modular cable, and have all the rest of the PSU plugs available. Does anyone make a Corsair PSU power cable that turns one of the SATA power ports into a 6 pin PCI-E? Is it safe to use a 4 pin Molex to 6 pin PCI-E adapter? Or a Sata power to 6 pin PCI-E adapter? I'd really prefer not to replace my PSU as there is nothing wrong with it, but I also don't want to cause any other issues either.

+1 The enormous majority of popular coolers are manufactured by asetek which means the only real difference is the warranty and aesthetics. NZXT's have the longest warranty at 6 years, have a stellar reputation, and a pretty cool mirror RGB light on the pump housing Corsair's used to be Asetek but recently switched to CoolIT. EVGA and Fractal also both use Aseteks. I spent months trying to find a review of the perfect AIO and the result that I came up with is it doesn't exist. They all work relatively well, and while they will never be as reliable as air coolers, air coolers will never cool as well as liquid coolers. I just refreshed my build about 3 months ago and after using 2 different air coolers, a whole lot of data logging analysys, and curiosity, I decided to give the Liquid CLC a shot. I'm happy I have a good robust data set to compare against so I will be able to definitively show any improvements if any once I get the AIO installed. I ended up going with the EVGA CLC 360 based on reviews and price. It's not as fancy as the NZXT, but it also cost $85 less. Plus, last time I looked the only place that had the NZXT available was Amazon, and that was only for the 360. The 280 was out of stock until June.

Unfortunately these are becoming impossible to find in stock in the US.

The top won't support the 360mm rad. Also, not for nothing my 1080 stays cooler than my CPU does. I rarely get above 60 on my GPU, even after a few hours of playing apex or warzone. My CPU is in the mid 70's when F@h. My computer is usually either Folding or gaming with very little of much else.

What's up LTT forum, So after months of arguing with myself and trying 2 different air coolers I pulled the trigger this morning on a EVGA 360mm CLC. Got a pretty good deal considering the other popular asetek coolers are being marked up due to the current economical climate of the world. Next order of business, I have 2 possible mounting locations for the radiator in my Thermaltake S300 case. My question to the group is, my preferred placement would be the very front. According to the instructions I can mount the radiator on the outside of the case inside the front cover and then the fans on the inside. My question is air flow direction. If I use the front fans as an intake, which is what I have now and I would assume is probably "Normal" for fan direction on the front panel.....won't I be blowing hotter than ambient air into my case? My follow up question, if I change the front panel to exhaust and push air out I'm worried that I will be scavenging air from my GPU. As you can see in the picture I have a GTX 1080 Turbo, so it pulls air from the bottom and pushes it out the back of its I/O panel. Below is a picture of my current setup. I have 2 140mm exhaust fans at the very top, 1 120mm exhaust fan at the back and then the 3 intake fans on the front. I am planning on re-using the corsair AF120's as I like the white LED's and I've heard the factory EVGA fans can be noisy. The 2 radiator mounting location options are the front and the front side, but the front side would be a last resort as I'd have to remove the drive bracket and then I have no place to put my IronWolf 4TB drive. Let me know what you think.

Thanks for the input. I'll have to take a look at the used market for 1080 Ti's and see what they are like.

Good Day LTT members, I have a 2700x cpu/GTX1080 build. I play mostly FPS (Wargame, Apex, ROE, etc) and some strategy games (WOWS, SC2). I have a relatively new Asus ROG STRIX 27" 1080 144hz monitor and run almost all of my games near max settings and routinely get somewhere around 80-120fps depending on the game. My intention is to play on my 1080p monitor until it dies on me or until I just really want to jump to the next level with UHD or 4k. Is it worth the investment to replace the GTX1080? Looking at benchmarks I believe I would need to go RTX 2060S to match the performance of the 1080, and probably RTX2070 or 2070S to be Objectively better. What do you think?

Thanks everyone. I was playing around with the idea of an AIO but as a old school PC builder and gamer, the anxiety of possible liquid spilling into my case has always made me nervous about trying it. I really like the way the Mugen looks which is why I selected it over the Noctua, which is just hideous. On the weekends I use the PC for gaming and general browsing and turn the F@h client off. And then probably 3 days a week I run her through the night, the other 2 I shut it off at 5pm and don't turn it back on until 8am. So the system gets ample rest time throughout the week. Thanks again for the replies. Appreciate it. Also attached is a picture of how the fans are oriented and such. I'm a sucker for lights. Little Red White and Blue theme at the moment.

Hello LTT world, I recently, as a result of this lovely global pandemic, gave me desktop a much needed refresh. I had some questions not so much on cooling, but more if my temps are in line with what I should expect. My rig: B450 mobo Ryzen 7 2700x GTX 1080 (Single fan Turbo model) Scythe Mugen 5 rev.b Thermaltake S300 case 3 - Corsair AF120's on intake in the front 2 - Corsair ML140's on exhaust on the top 1 - Included Thermaltake 120mm exhaust on back I'm using Argus Monitor to control my fans and monitor my Thermals. On idle everything is good CPU: 39-41C GPU: 42-45C Under Load: CPU: 67-75 Degrees, occasional spikes to 81 Degrees when I let F@h run all night GPU: Stable high of 62C, no concern there. Is the 2700x spiking at 81 degrees acceptable? I have been doing a lot of Folding @ Home recently in wake of the Corona junk and I let the desktop Fold for 10-18 hrs continuous. Again, most of the time it hovers right at 70-72 degrees, with extended durations up to 75, but I will get 10-30 second spikes up to 80-81.2, with 81.2 being the highest recorded maximum I have hit on the CPU since I replaced the stock Wraith cooler. Thanks for the advice. My previous CPU never got to 65C so 80 seems toasty, but I've also read that these Ryzen chips run hot, so I just want to make sure I'm within some kind of safe operating range.

Those temps are fine. My air cooler on my 2700x runs consistently at 72-74 under load and it's been doing that for months without a problem.

After much consideration and a good amount of research I have decided to upgrade my case. Thanks for all the advice. I think I'm going to sell the old Lian Li or give it to my dad to replace his disgusting plastic mid-tower.

I recently upgraded my 10 yr sold gaming rig to a Asus ROG STRIX B450-f/rzyen 7 2700x combo. I have been looking for RGB addressable components for it but all of the RGB I can seem to find is 5V and 3 pin. I don't understand how a product can say "Aura Sync" supported but is a completely different plug and voltage. Am I missing something here? I'm currently looking for a AIO (I know I don't need one, I want one) that will work with the RGB headers on the Mobo but all the ones I've found have a 5V. The motherboard manual states the headers are 12V.

Appreciate all the advice. I dabble in metalworking as a hobby so cutting a hole in aluminum is not a big deal at all. The filter disintegrated years ago and has been off for some time. So right now I have 4 80mm fans. 2 - Front - Intake 80mm 1 - Top - Intake 80mm 1 - Rear - Exhaust 80mm I don't think the feet of the case are thick enough that pushing air out the bottom would do much, but I can certainly give that a try as well. Those feet are only about 5mm thick so that's not much space to direct airflow. But future state you are suggesting would be: 2 front - Intake 80mm 1 top - Exhaust 120mm 1 rear - Exhaust 80mm remove grill 1 bottom - Exhaust 120mm Correct?

So are you saying drill holes in the side behind the motherboard tray? I do see that I can get a 120mm front bay adapter to mount a single 120 fan, which that would work since I don't use any kind of drive in there anymore. My Power supply is not as old as the case, it's a modular 620W Corsair. It's a few years old for sure, but not as old as the case. I don't feel like that fan. Also, I have removed the front bottom hard drive cage entirely, I have 2x 2.5" SSD's and a single 3.5 mounted in the 3.5" bays. So that frees up some airflow and the dust filter disintegrated years ago so the fans have no resistance other than that metal guard.

It's a LIAN LI PC-65 USB but in black. I had to search for a minute because I believe it's a legacy case that they no longer make. And, they are actually 80mm fans, not 92. I will fix the OP. I replaced them with Arctic F8s I'm using the stock wraith cooler, but nothing is overclocked and I'm running everything at factory settings. The CPU idles at start up around 43 degrees, and it will stay there all day at idle. But, if I play a game or something for 2 hours it will get up into the high 60's and it will never get back down below 55. The GPU idles at about 37 when I first start up and the same deal, will stay between 37-38 at idle/web browsing but as soon as I start up a game after about 10 minutes it's in the mid 70's, which I think is fine, but I can't get the temp back down below 55 after I get it hot once. I have 2 front and 1 top fans pulling air into the case and the 1 rear fan pushing air out. My GTX1080 is also a turbo model so it's blowing the air out the back as opposed to blowing it into the case, so I'd imagine it would be worse with a Non Founders type design.

Hello LTT world. I have an old Lian Li all aluminum mid-tower (4x 5.25 bays and 3x 3.5 bays) and I cannot seem to keep any kind of reasonable temperatures in my system. And once it gets hot there is no catching it and calming it back down. This case is old, I bought it brand new 12+ yrs ago. At the time, all aluminum modular cases didn't exist outside of this so I think I paid like $200 for the thing. Fast forward to 2020, I recently upgraded to a Ryzen 7 2700x and a GTX 1080 and I just can't keep the thing cool. I have replaced all 4 internal case fans with new higher airflow units but they are only 80mm fans. My question: Is there anything else I can do to improve cooling inside this case? Or am I up against an old design being antiquated and is it just time for me to upgrade to a modern case with, at minimum, 120mm fan support? Let me know. I love this case and don't want to part with it but I'm out of ideas.

It looks like I already had it off so I'm going to try turning it on.