Mischievous

Hey all, I was wondering, is there a way to apply a vst to only 1 application/game? What I mean specifically is, you know how when I open the volume mixer on windows, I get to control the individual volume of every application currently running? That thing. How can I only apply a VST to Conan Exiles? Why? So that I can apply a volume equalization VST of some sort ((Once I find one)) to it and only it, while being able to listen to music and discord normally without the volume equalization messing discord and music up. Why? Because Conan Exiles has such awful audio mixing that I need to use Windows Loudness Equalization or else get my ears blown out, but Windows Loudness Equalization it applies system wide, and I am hoping to find a volume equalization VST and also find a way to only apply it to Conan Exiles. I really enjoy Loudness Equalization _IN THIS SPECIFIC CASE_ because it means I can hear the game's audio, might sound funny but in most games some sounds are like 50 times louder than ambient sounds and if I don't want to blow out my ears every time I use fireball, I have to bring my volume down so much that I barely hear the game's environment sound effects. ((And no the in game options don't let me adjust this. It's all just "Game SFX" to it)) Anyhow I did try searching on my own but I can't get google to understand my question and it keeps showing me how to apply VSTs to external guitar and audio inputs Thanks in advance, and I am sorry to any audiophiles that had to read the term "Loudness Equalization", I know how much people hate the idea of it. But I really like using it for when playing videogames. I am sorry.

35-40C at idle and like 60-65C at load with like Cyberpunk or Unreal 5 Wow, an hour long gpu techie video I'll watch it after work today, thanks!

Hello all, in 2020 I got a 2080 SUPER; http://www.palit.com/palit/vgapro.php?id=3352&lang=en That one to be precise. And everything was fine. In 2020,2021 I did some really graphically intense projects in Unreal 4 no problems. In 2022 I wanted to play Control with Ray tracing enabled but like once every two days or so of gameplay I'd get a GPU driver crash I thought nothing of it. Then in 2023 started to get a GPU Driver crash while doing Unreal 5 stuff like every half hour to an hour. I chalked it up to a bug in UE5, and read somewhere to just under clock my GPU by a hundred mz. And it worked. By the end of 2023 I got Cyberpunk 2077 and I couldn't even start it, it immediately crashed with a GPU Driver crash unless I under clock my GPU by 200 mz. Baldur's gate 3 came out, same story, unless I under clock by 200 mz it crashes. But the reason I write this now is that as of today it's gotten worse, games that I didn't have to under clock for now I have to, and for things like Ue5, Cyberpunk I have to under clock by more than I used to last year. So I tried to open one of those projects I did in 2020 and yep they crash too unless I under clock by about 300 mz. Like the amount I have to under clock this seems to rise slowly and I'm wondering what could be causing this. I tried to ask for help at a tech center but they just told me "They sometimes do that." . Fair. They do indeed sometimes do that. But why? PS: I've tried both BIOS options for the GPU the same behavior persists in both.

You know I completely forgot that RMA exists guess I'll try to do that thanks

Hello, anyone know if this keyboard ca be at all repaired? Microsoft 5KV-00005 I was forced to buy it when my wrist pain made it impossible to type o a square keyboard anymore ad this seemed to be the only curvy keyboard i existence back the. it's been a year since I got it, and the n key has stopped working entirely for no reason, and there doesn't seem to be any way to remove the keycap, or eve ope the keyboard, I tried, removed all the screws, poped all the plastic hinge things, but there's something holding it together like glue or something. I also tried blowing compressed air between the keys, see if that works, but nothing. the n key presses down smoothly I don't feel anything i the way. And the little numpad that comes with this keyboard isn't the issue either, it stopped working 4 moths ago, but I didn't really bother to try fixing it, changing the battery didn't do it so I gave up I knew I'll have to throw this keyboard away the moment some minor thing goes wrong, it's a microsoft keyboard after all, I expected this to be tamper proof to hell and back, but if i am going to be throwing it out anyway, might as well completely wreck it i my attempt to fix it right? Also sorry for my awful spelling, spell check ca only go so far when I am entirely missing every n letter. The only way for me to spell it now is by copy pasting it from somewhere or use the accessibility onscreen keyboard.

Cool thanks. I guess if I was a true power user, I'd make sure that the only intensive thing I do ((Compile Unreal 5 every now and then)) is on the NVMe that doesn't share a lane with the CPU but I really don't think it matters. Anyhow thank you all, tomorrow I'll order my two 1TB SSD 980 PROs.

Ok thanks, I think I understand. Thanks for clearing this all up for me. I'll make sure to take that into account, thanks! Edit: One last thing, the fact that the two M2 connectors are chipset and not CPU, means that whatever NVMe drive I put there, will be slower than its rated speed?

Ok, I am sufficiently confused AND worried I've hooked up my mobo wrongly. I thought A B and C were all M2 slots. But half of you say there are only two M2 slots. Also my current NVMe is on Slot A at the bottom, and my GPU (I want to get a 50xx next year) is (will be) at the top PCIe slot I labeled as D, is this ok? Also I wanted to get 2 1TB NVMEs just for .... well if one fails I won't lose all 2Tbs of data. Plus I feel like a 2TB NVMe should have a greater chance of failure just because there's way more chips on it.

Quick question I have this MoBo https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-ULTRA-rev-10/sp#sp The spec sheet says this; Integrated in the CPU (M2A_SOCKET): AMD Ryzen™ 5000 Series/ 3rd Gen Ryzen™ Processors: 1 x M.2 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 SATA and PCIe 4.0 x4/x2 SSD support) AMD Ryzen™ 5000 G-Series/ Ryzen™ 4000 G-Series/ 2nd Gen Ryzen™/ 2nd Gen Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Vega Graphics/ Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Vega Graphics Processors: 1 x M.2 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 SATA and PCIe 3.0 x4/x2 SSD support) Integrated in the Chipset (M2B_SOCKET/M2C_SOCKET): 1 x M.2 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 SATA and PCIe 4.0 / 3.0 x4/x2 SSD support) (M2B_SOCKET) 1 x M.2 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280 SATA and PCIe 4.0 / 3.0 x2 SSD support) (M2C_SOCKET) 6 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors Support for RAID 0, RAID 1, and RAID 10 * Refer to "1-8 Internal Connectors," for the installation notices for the M.2 and SATA connectors. I already have one NVMe https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/data-storage/cssd-f1000gbmp600/force-series-gen-4-pcie-mp600-1tb-nvme-m-2-ssd-cssd-f1000gbmp600 And a random samsung 2tb SSD Can I install two more NVMEs? I want to get two of these https://www.samsung.com/bg/memory-storage/nvme-ssd/980-pro-pcle-4-0-nvme-m-2-ssd-1tb-mz-v8p1t0bw/ I feel like I can install two more but I want to make sure and get another pair of eyes on this. Also what does "Integrated in the CPU" and "Integrated in the Chipset" mean?

Cool thanks a lot for the concise answer! I am relieved I don't have to necessarily get a new PSU right now. By the way, if I could trouble you with one last question, I want to sell my 2080 super second hand, what do you think would be a fair price for it? It's been running 18 hours a day for the past 3 years, so I imagine it is fair to call it "Slightly used" I was thinking of selling it for like 200 euros.

Hello! It's time I move on from my 2080 Super to a 4090. My PSU is a Fractal Design Ion+ 860 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX. Nvidia recommends At Least a 850W PSU ... So is it a good idea to run the margins this close or should I just go for a 1000W new PSU? Also with my PSU now, I have 5 6-pin connectors, so from what I understand, this means that I can use the 600w adapter? Plug 4 of the 6 pins into it, and then the adapter into the GPU? Also was the melting adapter problem resolved? It's the reason I didn't get a 40xx in the first months of its release. If I buy a brand new 4090 Now, would the adapter it comes with still melt, or do they have a fixed version now? ((And how would I even be able to tell if I get an old adapter, or a new adapter?)) Also, Also, Also. Thanks in advance!

It worked. I can't believe that you literally had me do the equivalent of turning it on and off again. Well I feel dumb now. But I guess people who have the same issue will find this thread in the future so. Thanks

I need help, I've made an install flash using Rufus, and I have ubuntu-16.04.6-desktop-i386 on it because the laptop is 32 bit. And also from the year 2008. But when I put the flash in and boot from it, this happens; I know this isn't supposed to happen because I've installed Ubunto this way before and it has always worked. When I google "No Catching Mode Found" I only find answers for people who have already installed Ubunto and have this error, I can't find any help about getting this error while tryng to install ubunto. For reference I have windows XP on this old laptop. Maybe it's causing issues? For further reference, I have to get this laptop working xD "Sentimental value" and all that. Here is a picture of the bios if that helps. ((I am working on cleaning the screen. I am literally trying bringing this thing back to life))

Thanks for the detailed reply! I've started trying to dispose of this sub on the second hand market and I'll buy a good active one eventually. I actually thought 45Hz isn't that low but my friend, who's advice I've now learned to take with a few grains of salt, assured me at the time that it's great. Thanks again :)

So if it's an RCA plug - Active Subwoofer, if it's not - passive subwoofer? Well at least I'm learning, thanks :)

I am at the end of my rope here and I'm also annoyed at the lack of information in both my receiver's manual and online so please bear with me. I have this amplifier; Sony STR-DN1080 https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDN1080-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B06XKRWWSG And a friend sold me their subwoofer; WHARFEDALE PROGRAMME SUB https://www.ror.ie/products/wharfedale-programme-sub-black-whaprogrammesub.html The amplifier manual didn't state what cable I need to connect the subwoofer with, nor does it say if I need a passive or active subwoofer. But my friend assures me I don't need an active one, but then this thread seems to suggest the opposite. And also that I need an RCA plug to speaker cable adapter https://forums.tomsguide.com/threads/how-to-connect-passive-subwoofer-to-sony-strdn1080.209710/ So I got a RCA plug to Speaker cable adapter, and it fits in the Sub Out of the amplifier, but I am not hearing anything from the sub no matter what I do. I've set it to 4.1, its main menu shows a subwoofer and I can even set the level of the subwoofer. My Windows audio output is set to 5.1. When I use a multimeter to measure the current in the sub out cable, it's 0. When I measure the current in my front speaker cable it's non zero. So this to me suggests that the subwoofer isn't sending a signal to the sub out? It has 2 sub outs, and no where in the manual does it tell me why there are 2, and if I need 1 or 2 or both. But I've tried connecting the subwoofer cable to both sub outs and it doen't seem to work. I was wondering if anyone here has any idea what's going on Here is the manual for the amplifier btw. https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/res/manuals/4686/1a5e9c2b4143ad36dd5cb360f2a11851/46865241M.pdf The sub out has a "Monoaural audio cable" written on it, but my friend has no idea what that is, and also I asked at like 3 stores that sell audio gear about a "Monoaural audio cable" and they also didn't know what it was. TLR; Connecting passive subwoofer to Sony STR-DN1080 with an RCA to speaker cable adapter and I've set the Sony to 4.1 but I don't hear anything from subwoofer

Hello again everyone. I am extremely grateful for all the support offered. After much deliberation I've decided to get the; Sound Devices MixPre-3 II Given my goal parameters ((And price I'm willing to part)) I could find nothing that would suit me better than this guy. Special thanks to @Orbital_Aurora for the patience with me.

@Orbital_Aurora Old Drivers huh. I was hoping that the Gen 3's drivers wouldn't be that old. Well I'll go check out the brands you suggested and re-evaluate things.

@Orbital_Aurora I have looked at portable recorders but they are a bit more noisy. It is acceptable noise but if I am going to spend money on this, I want to get the quietest gear I can. Cleaning noise has been 80% of my experience in amateur recording ((I know it's not just the gear that matters but every bit helps)). One of the reasons I am looking at the Focusrite Clarett 2/4PRE is its low relative noise (( -128 EIN)). This great channel offers measurements that seem to be missing from the official retailer specifications. And I don't want to get a USB Bus powered one because with my luck I'll 100% end up having USB ground loop noise and then I'll have to spend extra on USB noise cleaners. Getting 12 volts power supply isn't that hard if I ever need to be truly portable with one of these. I'll look at Oktava tomorrow.

@gal-m Noted, I will tag people now. And I acknowledge what you are saying, I noticed that everything has a chance to arrive defective, even the high end stuff so I'll remove that from my search criteria. The more I read about the Focusrite Clarett 4PRE USB the more I like it. Even if it is entry level, it feels like it's at the latter end of the level. Has an external power supply, no unnecessary fluff that can go wrong, it feels like a great straight forward thing. It does one thing and it does it well, or so I get the feeling. Most other interfaces in the price range I want to start with, generally seem to bang on Features. I already fell for that My 7:1 AV Receiver is a feature rich box of sci-fi ((Sony STR-DN1080)) and it arrived defective. And I don't even use the features. I'll sleep on it for a few days. And then start looking for mics that will cooperate well with the Clarett. I want to start with a matched stereo pair of some sort. My ultimate goal is to record thunder strikes. But do it well. Real life thunder sounds so expansive and spacious and I love it. Thunder in video-games sounds pretty bad in comparison, narrow and weak. I imagine a ORTF setup with a matched set will do the trick. Just need to find Mics that can handle the pressure level that arrives here after a good thunder strike. ((I realize I am using an externally powered interface for something that could be technically considered field recording but I'll manage.)) @Orbital_Aurora I will remember those names for future reference. I did stumble upon the Antelope yesterday. It's odd that it took me about four days to get google to show me something other than Focusrite or Steinbergs. Edit: Someone please convince me that I don't need the Antelope Audio Discrete 4 Synergy Core because it's perfect in every way imaginable. Just expensive as hell

The MOTU M4 and M2 seem to be loved by their users. Unfortunately the reputable store for audio gear in my city doesn't offer MOTU. I am considering the Focusrite Clarett 4PRE USB now. It has an EIN of -128 and a dynamic range of 118 db. Only 57 db Gain , which some cite as a downside though. And then there's the wheel of fortune that Focusrite seems to be in regards of weather or not I randomly get a working unit out of the box or something defective. But the store does have a lot of them so at least I could cycle through them until I get one that works.

Hello! I want to progress down the road of sound design and want to get a setup to record audio with. Not music, but sounds for use in games or movies. So far I've been chugging along with a Rhode Video Mic Go duck taped to a Surface Pro 4 ((The 3.5 mm jack has to be pressed in with tape to lower the noise for some reason)). Now I want the good stuff. Or well. Stuff that's worth it. I've been struggling with figuring out what to get. I immediately saw the likes of Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, but just as quickly I saw all the issues people have with it. And also I've grown increasingly distrustful of "broad audience made for everyone recording studio in your bedroom" type of 100 buck audio gear, so I don't want it or anything in its price range. Where I am at now, is eyeing the Steinberg UR-RT4, it seems people don't have issues with it, but all the reviews talking almost exclusively about the Rupert Neve Designs Transformers is making me weary. I don't think I need Rupert Neve Designs Transformers for recording sounds from interesting garbage cans and plastic bottles. And... Yeah I am kinda stuck, I think I am stuck in some filter bubble on google because all the articles I find are in the "Best audio recorders under 100$ of 2021" range and I just don't trust such articles anymore. ((I've been burned before)) TLDR; What I need is something with 2 or 4 XLR inputs ((future proof if I want to use more than 2 mics)). A really low EIN like -128 or close to the theoretical limit of -130 ((Like the Audient iD4 but that's only 1 XLR input)), a good dynamic range, and hopefully something that doesn't have a 1 in 100 change to arrive defective. I'll be happy to pay for it.

Hello! In January I started a thread here when I decided to enter the world of slightly better sound, and flowing the suggestions I received ((Thanks for your patience and time Exidor and circeseye), I made my orders and waited with bated breath. Last week They Arrived. I invested in a; Sony STR-DN1080 https://www.whathifi.com/sony/str-dn1080/review A pair of; Dali ZENSOR series 1 for my front channel https://www.whathifi.com/dali/zensor-1/review And I had my old 25 year old Sony SS-H991 speakers checked up by a technician and I am reusing them as my surround channel speakers. I couldn't be happier. I hear things I never even knew were there. There's just one problem, there's a constant high pitch noise present at all times. I took a photo of it It's just always there. From the moment I turned on the receiver, I could hear it from every speaker. and a week it's starting to become painfully(literally) clear that I can't learn to live with it. Luckily I'm an amateur sound designer so I had a means to take a sample of it, and I've uploaded it as an attached file to this post. Looking at the spectrogram I can see the noise lines at 3 4 5 and 6k and it worries me that they are at such exact frequencies. I've been looking online for solutions and I understand that hiss is normal even if unwanted, but I am 100% certain this high pitch noise shouldn't be here. Here's what I've gathered; The noise exists irregardless of what input I select with the exception that SAT/CAT-V option makes it more pronounced. The noise exists irregardless of volume. Turning the volume to zero, using the mute function and turning the volume to 100 has no change in its volume or persistence. I have attempted to plug only the receiver to its own outlet in the wall, and connected 1 speaker. I could still hear it. I have had the receiver on for at least 100 hours now and it's not going away on its own. It is not always there. It goes away on its own sometimes and I can't figure out why but returns seemingly at random. I read online that it's possible for there to be RF noise in my power-grid and considering that my lights flicker when the stairwell lights turn on I am sure I have ample RF noise in my grid but could that be causing the reciever to play a constant noise at these exact frequencies? Bottom line is, is my receiver just defected? I'd like to exhaust every option I have before I return it. Returning it will be a months long hassle again. Edit: One thing to note, I have tried to repeatedly reconnect the cables. But the receiver has these annoying spiny connectors that mangle the cable and separate loose strands and I am still not sure that's not the culprit, what would the best way to connect speaker cable be to insure I don't have a bad connection? 638621602_nR-DN1080Noise.wav

Most honest thing I've heard. I'll sleep on it. Chances are, I'll say fuckit and get the Samsung q950t too rather anti-climatically to this whole thread.

Well that was my long term plan, It's clear that this will be a setup I'll spend ages assembling if I do it. Right now I'll stretch it, and maybe get the receiver and left and right speakers. I will remember what you said about the subwoofer. Which I might skip all together yeah, this was just my ideal plan now. In a few years when I get to buying subwoofers, well by that time I might have larger issues than what subwoofer to get. Anyhow think I'll go with the Klipsch for center left and right as you suggested. Thanks a lot everyone! This was an amazing first foot set into the ocean of sound. I know I don't know a lot. That will probably never change, but at least I have some basic understanding of what I am doing now. Unless; When you said "But yea for my "gaming" office desk setup I said fuck it and settled for the Samsung q950t" how far away from your gaming computer do you sit? When I looked at the Samsung q950t it looked like the ideal distance to be from it is like 3-4 meters.