cobalt77

Have a watch of this dashcam video and listen to the background audio Hyundai decides not to wait and pays the price - Carlisle WA

It is Linus and Luke from "RTX 3080 Scalpers are JERKS - WAN Show September 18 , 2020" at around the 3 min 51 second mark 
 

Have a watch of this dashcam video and listen to the background audio Hyundai decides not to wait and pays the price - Carlisle WA

It is Linus and Luke from "RTX 3080 Scalpers are JERKS - WAN Show September 18 , 2020" at around the 3 min 51 second mark 
 

Ha, nice catch! You must have been paying more attention than that Hyundai driver.

Yep
Installed 

If you can manually spin it and it will then start up again, that means the fan is basically dead. Likely bearing or the motor itself. In short RMA the card. The reason it will start up again if you spin it is because you are helping the motor overcome a certain amount of resistance.
Now on some cards there is a small switch for an OC bios that will keep those fans running all the time even at idle. If you have one you can try it until you can send it in. But sooner or later that card will overheat while gaming.

What temps do you run at stock?
 
Why not try it? You already have the hardware

I usually use Macrium Reflect's free version. Has worked for me so far.

Yes it is mATX, also check if it is the mortar or mortar max. If it is just the mortar then skip it, the max has out of the box Ryzen 3000 support.

the mortar, gaming plus, a-pro and tomahawk have exactly the same vrms. the heatsink differes a bit, but in general the performance and power output is the same. all 4 motherboards can run a 3900x, which cannot be said about the asus rog strix

Not exactly more ram means more stuff can be loaded without slowing down your PC (if ram is full your PC will use the much slower HDD or SSD to store temp files its called the swap folder)
 
but ram speed is affecting system performance in games but not tremendously, but slow ramspeed usually bottlenecks(=affects its performance in a bad way/doesnt allow the GPU to reach its full potential)  a fast graphics card. If you have 1 ram stick which means in laymans terms that you run at half the speed of what your RAM is supposed to run. 
 
When you have two ramsticks of the same size and speed and rest of spec (in other words identical or a kit) you run the ram in what is called dual channel mode which means it reaches its maximum speed 
 
furthermore 4GB is too small nowadays 8 being the borderline for average usage and gaming but it wont make sense to buy a 2*4GB kit because 2*8GB is not that much more expensive and will be future proof. 
 
An ssd will help to boot faster in windows open apps faster and have lower loading times in games but very cheap SSDs are cacheless = they dont have a ram chip for caching data which makes them almost equally slow (and in some cases slower) than a HDD so it wont make sense to buy a very cheap one unless you can confirm it has a cache. 

Damn, I never saw your reply. Thanks a lot for your input. I did try a lot of things to troubleshoot it and I'll try what you suggested but it's probably going to go to recycling or giving it away to someone that may find some use out of it. It's a rather outdated card if I'm honest, it's struggling in some games and it's high time for an upgrade. It sadly coincided with the whole pandemic thing. My country has been in lockdown for like......a month now, so I'm holding off on making any decision for the time being. Thank you and @GreyestGoat for your help though

You can probably hop on eBay and find a 8gb stick of Ddr4 that matches the stick in it and save a bit of money. Or just get that 16gb kit you linked. Up to you. 

DDR3L is a dual voltage capable memory DIMM, which supports operation at both 1.5V and 1.35V. The left would be a Crucial CT102464BD160B 8 GB and right a Corsair CMV8GX3M1A1600C11 8 GB. If this is for the Asus h81m-k you posted about yesterday, then after digging through the ASUS Memory reports for the H81 Series, Asus says the Corsair CMV8GX3M1A1600C11 is compatible. Where as Crucial says the CT102464BD160B  is compatible with the Asus h81m-k here https://www.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/asus/h81m-k
 
Just take whichever is cheaper.

Looks a good call on the Pro Max. I've no particular brand loyalty however, so it doesn't have to be an MSI board (though I've been pretty happy with the Z170A Gaming M7 I currently have).
 
RAM pricing is so volatile that it is probably a little bit likely that pricing will be very different when ordering happens (probably in a week or two depending upon when other half gets paid and how much gets paid off the credit card for next month), so I'll compare sets/speeds then and go from there with a min. of 3200, but ideal of 3600.
 
RGB isn't important (the Define R5 has no window, so RGB won't be seen, though I do have an airbrush and do have plans to mod the panels a bit at some stage when the current situation has calmed down again).
 
Obviously, ideally I'd love a 3950X, but it isn't viable atm, but it could be in the future when 4xxx chips start appearing and prices of 3xxx chips fall, so the VRMs should be capable of handling it ideally.
 
One thing I'm wondering about is B550 boards and whether they'd be worth waiting for over 450.

no. 3200 does not cost 50% less. It is usually between 10-25%

Thank you. but I've already saw it and all other comparison sites, it didn't help much. I need users opinions, but Thank you 

Folding@Home

It looks like you can't flip the AAFP connector, but maybe you need to swap the ends between mobo and FP. There's no power on there so no risk really. The 4th SATA shouldn't be needed but we never know, if it still doesn't work it might be worth trying to put it.

No errors but I did another reinstall of the drivers and hopefully it'll look work this time. If not, well, I guess it's time to get me a new pc :D

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1d9_E3h8bLp-TXr-0zTJFqqVxdCR9daIVNyMatydkpFA/edit#gid=611478281

Sounds like a GPU driver issue, could you please include the specifications of your computer (include if you have overclocked any components)? Did you change any components or install new software/drivers recently before this issue began occurring?

I have an update. I decided to screw one screw in at a time and test temps after installing every screw to try to determine exactly which screw(s) is causing the problem. What I found is that the problem actually seems to have gone away after I spent an hour screwing a screw in, testing, shutting down, screwing another screw in, and repeating. I don't understand this at all, but I'm glad it's fixed. Temps now stay at around 50 degrees under load with the fan at 100%, much better. Thank you to everyone who replied, I really appreciate your input! 

AAFP is front panel audio, no doubt there.
You'll likely need the 3 FIO ones, i.e. black red and blue. I'd expect blue and black to USB3 and red to USB2...

im guessing the EXE is the setup file, it open up the drivers for AMD, i currnetly have 20.2.2, which is the latest, so i think im ok, i dont need to download them.

I downloaded a copy to see what they were and if there was any documentation in them, nope, no documentation. But there is an EXE and it looks to be updated combo cpu/agu/MB drivers, so it looks like they are needed
Yep Boomwebshearch is on the money, extract them to a temp location, run the exe, probably will have to restart. After that delete the extracted files.