cobalt77

Have a watch of this dashcam video and listen to the background audio Hyundai decides not to wait and pays the price - Carlisle WA It is Linus and Luke from "RTX 3080 Scalpers are JERKS - WAN Show September 18 , 2020" at around the 3 min 51 second mark

The bounce in fans 2 and 3 are signs that they are not the healthiest but are a long way from dyeing, you may have found the cause of the noise.

Verify your files. Epic Games Launcher -> Fortnite page -> Look at the green launch button, find the cog/gear icon just to the right -> click on cog icon -> select verify.

Gigabyte - download the maunal and look at it. There are 2 12v RGB ports LED_C1 & LED_C2, LED_C2 is by the ram. Read page 14 and note "Connect your RGB LED strip to the header. The power pin (markedwith a triangle on the plug) of the LED strip must be connected to Pin 1 (12V) of this header. Incorrect connection may lead to the damage of the LED strip." Corsair - look at the quick start guide that would have come with your case, page 9. RGB splitter plugs into the 12v port, which on this board marked LED_C1 or LED_C2 Masterliquid - Manual, image 12 shows the RGB splitter (part M) plugs into the 12v port, which is LED_C1 or LED_C2. Your choice to which splitter plugs in where. D_LED1 & D_LED2 (D_LED2 is next to LED_C2) are for 5v, yours are not 5v.

Yes, flat round area that the blades come off.

After having a search around it sems that for some people there is a problem with the Tomahawk and Tomahawk Max audio, especially with the rear audio rear jack. It is just static and poping. Fix seems to be RMA/replacement for some, others go for a sound card. Although I did find this post https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=333237

Do you have the Realtek Audio Control installed? It is separate from the Realtek HD Universal Driver and Realtek High Definition Audio Driver.

It shouldn't if it is only for a second or two. Jaming fans for ages is bad, for a second or two is not a problem. The one time that it is not a good idea is when the fans berings are totally gone (normally accompnied by a horible sounds) and really anything is just enough to push it over the edge. Have I done it before, yes. Have I damaged any fans that way, not that I know of. Would I do it on a daily basis, no as that would be stupid. Would I do it again to diagnose a issue with an expensive/important bit of my own hardware, yes as long as it is not a super fast server fan running full speed (I value having my finger tips not sanded off).

I say fan but to make sure stall each fan out one by one, that it place a finger on the hub (not into the blades, athough that can work, just not nice for the finger) and provide enough presure to stall the fan.

RMA it is what the answer you got off the Nvidia forums, it is the one you will get here, and I doubt you will find a different answer asking anywhere else. I gather it is undesirable for you to RMA it (or you would have done it months ago) so other solutions to the problem are what you are looking for, there actually are a number. You could ignore it untill the card dies and buy a replacement, buy a replacement and sell the curent one off as broken, pull the fan shroud off and make your own replacement (people have been doing this for years, quality ranges from PC fans held on with zipties and wiring covered with tape - to a huge 200mm fans (or bigger, they are very quiet for the amount of air they move) mounted on the case side feeding into custom ducts, get a replacement set of fans (85mm HA9010H12F-Z seems to be the aftermaket name for them, and they seem to be around the US$10-20 online) and fit them your self, get a aftermarket fan cooler that fits your card and bin the current one, or even go watercooled. So you have three choices, which are ignore it, fix it, or RMA it.

You sure that is a TKG connector as the specs for that PSU do not mention one, but it does mention a PCI-E 6+2-Pin.

Yes it is mATX, also check if it is the mortar or mortar max. If it is just the mortar then skip it, the max has out of the box Ryzen 3000 support.

Have a look at https://www.trustpilot.com/review/www.ebuyer.com It seems they are having issues at the moment, go back a couple of months in the reviews and it seems they were quite reliable.

What do you think of something like this? Asus GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB Phoenix @ €179.90 Also have a look around using PC part picker https://de.pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/

Luckily PCI-e is backwards compatible so any PCI-e 3 cards will work in the boards PCI-e 2 slot, and that card will be able to move to a new system. What country you in? The €200 and under cards you would be looking at would be the Nvidia GTX 1650 Super, AMD RX 470 8gb, and the Nvidia GTX 1650. I would take a Nvidia GTX 1650 Super for the games you want to play.