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Spainz

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  1. HELP! I bought the Steam Deck OLED... I'll be needing to attach an HDMI cable to it to connect to my grandmother's TV, so I bought this: "Anker PowerExpand 4-in-1 SSD USB C Hub, with 256G SSD Storage, 4K HDMI, 100W Power Delivery and 2 USB 3.0 Data Ports, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, XPS, and More" Which is this: Amazon.com: Anker PowerExpand 4-in-1 SSD USB C Hub, with 256G SSD Storage, 4K HDMI, 100W Power Delivery and 2 USB 3.0 Data Ports, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, XPS, and More : Electronics It claims to do power pass-through to charge the connected device, which is important as other wise the only Steam Deck port is occupied by the USB-C hub's connector. There's a power "PB" port on the hub that looks like the USB-C cable head would work, and I'm hoping I can plug in my Steam Deck's included power brick and cable to charge and connect to the hub through the PB Port, thereby allowing this setup to my grandmother's TV to work. So what I need your help with, is telling me if the Steam Deck Power Cord and Brick will plug into the "PB" Port on the USB-C Hub and whether via the hub's 100Watt pass=through charging if that's enough to sustain medium load gameplay on a Steam Deck for a few hours.
  2. Budget (including currency): non-specific. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: non-production, for leisure activities. Other details: My current Computer setup was valued at $4,400 new 2 years ago including the headphones, mouse, keyboard and monitor. But I lack speakers, and wanted a nice pair to last me years. This is my current setup: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Spainz/saved/#view=N2Kb23 Long story short the speakers I'll post below should be comparable in price to the price of my PC. So am I correct in assuming that of the speaker products TYPES sold by companies, I'd be looking for a computer audio setup known as "satellite 2.1"? I'm a complete noob, willing to spend quality money on what I know from others to be a quality company, but I lack knowledge of how to connect it to my computer, such as the correct ports and cables to use, and so I'm wondering if this is indeed the correct setup I should be looking at as far as versus towers, 5.2's, bookshelf speakers, etc. https://www.svsound.com/products/prime-satellite-2-1?variant=38030710538429 I don't care about speaker competitors, I really just need to now what type of setup I should consider given my use case. It would connect directly to my PC... or should I have some minds middle ground hub between the computer and my speakers.... (?) I mean Ideally I just buy the speakers, a sub, and some cables and that's it. I'm not an audiophile. Growing up I remember 2 speakers and a sub from my parent's setup, and they're not hightek. So this is the type of setup I need right?
  3. Budget (including currency): My overall PC build including monitor, keyboard and mouse (no speakers) was $3,300 about with all new components at the time. For the GPU today I'm looking for, I'd like NOT to spend more then $600, absolutely no more than $900, and I'd REALLY PREFER no more than $400 (but I'm aware of the diluiison). Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Heavy gaming, rare and light streaming (not at all serious), absolutely will NOT be used for any photo or video work, AI, crypto, etc. Realistically this component (GPU) will be used for gaming. Other details : https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D2Dj4s --The original use case of my PC was to have an everything computer. I was tired of relying on my Q2 2015 13" MacBook Retina for everything... which it sucked at. I hated the anti-consumer path Apple took and thus for the first time ever not only would use Windows PC for my first time but actually risked my wallet and built it ground up. I aimed for a upper-mid range PC not to future proof it, but to have something like my laptop that I could abuse over the course of 8 years, but when it became truly insufficient could actually upgrade, or maintain myself for "cheap." Unlike my MacBook... Prior to Framework Puter, all laptops were a dump $3000 every time it becomes insufficient, an issue I was looking to escape through a true desktop. --THUS, I built a upper-mid range computer. Thankfully, given the 12th gen i7 I bought, and my motherboard being PCIE4 gen compatible with a firmware update with that i7, I can use the newer models (30+ series) of GPUS to their theoretical full bandwidth potential. I had to settle for a 2080 super which has served me well through the pandemic, but Ideally I'd like to upgrade it or replace it. So I need help, given my current cooling solution, and given my current PSU limits, is a 30 series GPU reasonable? I don't care if it's a TI or just the first iteration, I would like to upgrade it and spend a REASONABLE amount of money given the performance and use case I'm after, which is average to upper but not extreme performance. I figure a 3070 or 3080 is best suited for me, but I'd like y'all recommendation. Keeping in mind my above price range. I just need to know given my setup which product in the stack is best, but I don't care a specific like partner model or not, I'll judge that on my own. Is it realistic? Any recommendations?
  4. For reference: Here's my current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D2Dj4s Budget (including currency): up to $300 total for cameras and software, prefer software to be one and done payment, not sub, but I get it if sub required. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Internal case security, meant to passively capture so in event of PC tower theft can possibly catch incriminating evidence of criminal. I have an ATC PC CASE with all black interior, so i figure there will be more than enough room for cameras in the PC case to tuck away. I'm in no way a tech nerd... I want to hook up one, or even a few (if it's cheap enough) to my PC tiny cameras that I figure are built onto PCB's like this one (onyl for reference: Amazon.com: Raspberry PI Camera OV7251 Sensor with Global Shutter External Trigger Stream Mode 0.3MP Frame Rate up tp 158fps 8bit 10bit rawdata Format for Raspberry Pi 4B 3B+ 3B 3A+ CM3+ CM3 Pi Zero W : Electronics But I don't know how to make it compatible with my windows 10 home, and wouldn't be sure what software to use to log continuous streams of recordings (the anti-theft use case comes in here). For the cameras, i want the highest quality video in the tiniest, most discrete formfactor i can get and still hook up to my motherboard without addition like... Pi Boards if possible, jut the camera hooked up to my MO if possible please. For the software, i'm hoping its reliable, and would prefer if it was logged both on my storage devices and on the cloud simultaneously. Ideally, it auto deletes on-site (on my pc storage) stored mp4 data after X number of GB, or after X number hours to make room for new recordings and all this is done with auto re-recording after it does this. A sort of set and forget kind of thing you know? Am I crazy? Is this even possible? What suggestions or problems do you foresee? Any product or software recommendations? Any ideas how I connect it into my PC case discretely but with a good picture of a possible theive through my glass side panel?
  5. Hey guys, I live in the USA. What I have: An old TV, I know this isn't the ideal TV people are using for this purpose, but I'm interested in using this old TV (that is otherwise clutter) as a retro style monitor display for my Pokemon Dungeons casual nightly gameplay by hooking it up to my Nintendo Switch (non OLED). I don't know what's required, or if it's even possible. TV = Toshiba Model No.MV19L4 (manufactured Sep 2001) with one yellow and one white LINE IN aux point. I believe the yellow is for video in, and the white for audio in. I know it'll be the pleb version of audio for this purpose and I don't care. The TV is specked at AC 120V 60GHz 86W and (while not relevant might help you identify the tv I have) has a VHS and PHONES port. Here's what I want: 1) A seamless, preferably cheap but not unstable / not unreliable, way to hook my Nintendo switch up to my TV. Any recommendations? (I'm not worried about the distortion of the visuals as long as everything shows up on screen). Q: Is it possible not to get distortion of visuals? Probably not right? 2) I want the TV audio to work, but it really doesn't have to for my purposes, I can play Pokemon Mystery Dungeon silent Afterall. Note: I do not have nor plan to hook up any additional audio output from the TV, nor from the Switch. No interest in it. 3) I need to know if I can power the switch, the TV, and the connection means by no more than 2 wall outlets (with 2 within the rectangle)... it's a normal everyday 120 outlet... #USA. Yeah: i'm not an electrician so I likely sound like a complete moron describing the wall outlet... lol. Concerns / Unknowns: 1) Is my TV a real fire hazard and should I buy a fire extinguisher or am I fine using a TV from 2001 with absolutely no reasonable concern. ?: Any cheap recommendations for a properly applicable fire extinguisher? 2) Will I need to known linux or coding voodoo or can I plug and play? I'm an idiot, so hopefully I can just plug and play. Things you likely need to know: 1) I do not have any capable connection device. 2) I believe I lack audio cords for this purpose. So what's the damage? Any recommendations for what to buy to use here and how to use it?
  6. Out of curiosity, why is Trinitron so important? If I'm not mistaken that technology predates the technology offered in the two TV's I have, actually curious.
  7. Hi everyone! So I have here 2x working old box-like Tube/CRT TV's... or I think they are. They aren't flat, they have that old computer chunkiness to them and hard curved front glass. They make the sizzling static noice while on and everything. I don't know the resolution. We currently don't have them hoocked up to cable or anything hence the videos I'll try and post only show me clicking through the channel lines. I'll try and post several pictures. The Black on is larger than the white one, and the black one has an antenna attachment. Both remotes still work with it. Any idea if I were to clean them up how much they'd be? My parents are getting old and don't use them, are convinced they're not worth the trouble to see but also to lazy to sell themselves. Was curious if I could surprise them with some good news for once... There are no scratches or dents on any surface of them, minus what appears 3x nail holes on the back of the black one, not that it's caused any oddities in working or not... so I'm hoping they're worth something to some gamer out there. Also just curious what these baddies are, they were with me in my childhood, as early as 2000 for the black one if I recall correctly, maybe older. I don't know. Any idea what these exact models are? Here's the google drive link, hopefully that works I don't do this kinda thing often. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ODuPdfqMDEw5vn5lfQ3AlSw3GazLkeSx?usp=sharing
  8. Hello everyone! This is my current build as it is assembled: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D2Dj4s I have an i7-11700K on hand I will soon swap out with the current one (i7-10700k). I know my Motherboard is compatible with a BIOS update. I'm aware this upgrade will unlock the PCIe gen 4 capability of the motherboard. I'm not tech savvy enough to know how many of those lanes are unlocked with the new CPU, and I also don't know what is meant by PCIe "lanes" though as I understand it to mean where the GPU slots into, and maybe SSD or RAM? I know that I'll be able to use PCIe Gen 4 GPU's in the future which is good, I want my build to be a long-term arrangement with room for future performance increases in games as I don't use the PC for productivity beyond web browsing and the occasional college assignment. I know that by upgrading my motherboard with the i7-11700k I can use PCIe Gen 4, but I need your help in scanning the specs and explaining if it means I won't be able to run certain modules while others are running, at PCIe Gen 4 speeds. Lastly... anyone know if my motherboard supports DDR5 ram? I don't recall it supporting it but would be good to know. You don't need PCIe Gen 4 to run DDR5 ram correct? (go easy I'm still a new to windows computers lol)
  9. Hi everyone! This is my current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D2Dj4s PROBABLY IMPORTANT: My computer is NOT OEM, I built it myself. I have confirmed that by updating the motherboard bios, my motherboard will support an upgrade (from the i7-10700K) to the i7-11700k for the full motherboard unlock of PCIe Gen4 speeds. Context: People keep telling me upgrading to the i7-11700k is pointless but for me it's what I need within my use case without spending a chunk of money and without having to rebuild my PC. I need not something shinier, I need only something drop-in compatible that gives me more modern perks! It's perfect for me, so I have bought an i7-11700k to place onto my motherboard thereby I don't need to buy different ram or different motherboard, it saves me a lot of money this way. However... I bought a cheap OEM overstock of the Windows 10 Home 64bit that I'm currently using. I've heard that changing motherboards requires a new copy of windows, when the windows used on the original motherboard was an OEM version. Q: Is this true given my situation of using the SAME Motherboard on a different bios with a different CPU? Q: If so, what step by step should I need to do? --Keep in mind I'm basically Computer illiterate when it comes to this particular kind of thing. I've never owned a Windows computer period, and this is my first time upgrading the computer... so... Q: If I need an entirely new operating system, how do I go about backing up the entirety of my computer for transfer to a new Operating system of Windows 10 Home 64bit? Q And how do I then transfer it to the new Windows? Q: Is there going to be any conflict in settings or ANYTHING I need to know at all about doing this? Thank you guys so much, I eagerly await replies!
  10. I didn't look hard enough I guess. Can you give me the example>example>example for how to navigate to it?
  11. This is my current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D2Dj4s My issue is with the power supply: ROG-THOR-850P I have no idea about power supplies. I'm looking in the future, possibly near future, to upgrade to a 30 series GPU. But I'm unsure if the PSU: 1) Is compatible electricity-and-capability-wise with a 30 series GPU (thinking a 3070 or 3080) 2) Has the needed connectors... 3) Has the needed cables... (and enough of them) 4) Is there an upgrade kit to make it compatible or cables I need to buy? I've looked at the specs page for the PSU and I have no clue what I'm looking at.
  12. Hi, this is my current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D2Dj4s I am currently using an Arctic Liquid Freezer II for the CPU. I heard that you need an upgrade kit for newer LGA socket mounting... but can't recall if it applies upgrading to Intel 11th gen from 10th gen or not... I've visited the product specs page but I'm no good at understanding what's posted so hence I ask here on the forum. If the mounting bracket isn't the issue I ought to be concerned about, are there any others associated with upgrading to the 11th gen i7-11700K from the current 10th gen i7-10700K, in terms of using my same cooler?
  13. I assume you mean for rasterization and not ray-tracing? But if you also mean fro ray-tracing that's quite interesting. I realize that currently 30 series cards are still right near the lowest bit fo PCIE gen4 utilization; thanks GamersNexus, which is fine because if I'm on the PCIE gen4 bandwagon that means in the future I can upgrade to a GPU that utilizes a meaningful amount of that PCIE GEN4 buss. But my 2080 super is falling behind in games like Escape From Tarkov, game's i'd like to use Ray Tracing in but take a dip below 60pfs as a result. With Minecraft's recent updates in word gen and gray tracing I'm below 60fps for the first time in over 12 years of minecraft. So I posted anyways. I appreciate your honesty, and I had been considering the 3070 AND the 3080 (specifically the 12gb) so it's interesting to hear you voice those suggestions, never the less I posted anyways because I always appreciate the opinion of others as I often overthink or can overlook things given my use case. As such, this post will remain open despite your noteworthy suggestions.
  14. Hello everyone! Before we begin read this next bit carefully or I'm gonna get kinda angry. I built my PC new and it was $3,300... I saved up for 2 years to make it happen. I'M NOT MADE OF MONEY. I don't plan to spend another $500+ on the PC I already have (after my already planned CPU upgrade), but I do recognize that for my use case I should invest a bit so that I can PROPERLY sit on the end product for the amount of time I had originally planned. Suggesting the newest and greatest, or telling me that my plan isn't sensible, or telling me to completely rebuild my system is TO IGNORE MY USE CASE. DON'T GO THAT ROUTE. I built my first PC about a year and a half ago, planned to sit on the components for a while. It was a multi-use PC; of which, the use cases were to be: Gaming, Youtube, College, Netflix, and work in that order. I really don't do any work on it but I'm not using it for purely gaming either. I run the system on 1440p settings for video and gaming. MY DILEMMA: When I built the PC brand new, it was just before the fresh 30 series launch and the PCIE Gen4 launch, and as such I ended up adopting an end-of-road/end-of-upgrade-path PCIE gen3 system. I mentioned above, I planned to build-and-sit-on the components in my PC for about 5-7 years if I could get away with it while upgrading just the GPU as games became more demanding, which I can't do currently considering I'm at the END OF PCIE Gen3 with current PCIE Gen4 cards. With what I have in it, and considering I don't actually need a PC for work, I figured I could sit on the components for about 7 years for 1440p video quality for watching movies and youtube. But for gaming I planned to update perhaps just the GPU from time to time, and I mean long after the card for my use case has come significantly down in price from when it was first launched. So if you recommend a current series card, I expect you mean for when the price comes down long in the future, by about a third to half, as I'm willing to sit on my current GPU for as long as is needed to get the best card for my use case without spending a decent amount to do so. Here is my current build... https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D2Dj4s I really want to be on the PCIE Gen4 bandwagon as it means future releases of GPU's will be utilized full within my system. Currently I'm on PCIE Gen3... luckily, if I upgrade my CPU to the Intel i7 -11700k, with a proper BIOS upgrade I can fully utilize the Motherboard's baked in (but otherwise locked out) PCIE Gen4 capability. SO MY PLAN: --KEEP EVERYTHING IN THE COMPUTER THE SAME, BUT UPGRADE CPU TO i7-11700K, CHANGE THE GPU. --DEPENDING ON WHICH GPU IS SUGGESTED TO ME BY YOU GUYS, I MAY HAVE TO UPGRADE MY PSU. --STAY ON THE 1440P GAMING RESOLUTION. I DON'T CARE FOR 4K, I REALLY DON'T. To change monitors at this point is costly and I REALLY DON'T CARE about 4k. DISCLAIMER: I'm WELL AWARE a new line of CPU's are coming out for INTEL, and AMD, and that new GPU's are due. I CARE FOR NONE OF THEM. My motherboard has real limitations and I'm not made of money so all I can afford (and am lucky to be able to do via the motherboard), is upgrade my CPU to the Intel 11th gen. This allows me PCIE Gen 4, which means I can just upgrade my GPU for another 4-5 years (hopefully) and thus don't have to completely rebuild my system in 3 years. SO WHAT I'M ASKING: --What 1440P GPU do you recommend given my monitor's limitations? I REALLY VALUE RAY-TRACING, though I'm unfamiliar with AMD vs NVIDIA I would like suggestions for both. DISCLAIMER: I recognize that my current GPU is one in which I can overlock... but honestly, I'd be fine with a new GPU that isn't overclockable, because my monitor specs won't change. I recognize tat I'm quickly reaching the point where my monitor's frame rate cap might bottleneck any GPU (recent) that you might suggest. I plan to sit on the GPU you suggest for me, as such I expect it to take a beating over the next few years. SO I EXPECT THAT AS THE CARD YOU SUGGEST AGES AND GAMES BECOME MORE DEMANDING MY GPU ON HIGHER RAY TRACE SETTINGS IN NEWER TITLES WILL NATURALLY FALL BACK WIHTIN THE MAX FRAME RATE OF MY MONITOR WHERE MY MONITOR NO LONGER LIMITS MY FPS. I care about Ray tracing, not just MAX FPS, and so I figure that the frame rate cap of my monitor SHOULD matter less. I"M NOT JUST LOOKING FOR HIGH FPS GPU, I'm looking for a decent one that at least can keep up with new games 3 years from now even with compromises around that time. KEEP IN MIND, I'M NOT ASKING FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MORE SENSIBLE CPUs... JUST GPUs. I'm not made of money, I'm just looking to upgrade my GPU within a 1440p, PCIEgen4 landscape. I don't need the highest FPS, but it should be better in performance than my current 2080 Super (MSI GAMING X TRIO) GPU with a focus on increased ray tracing capability. I would be happy to buy the previous generation 30 series if it makes more sense.
  15. If so... my scan just passed without any red flags. There is a youtube video the appears to be BY the developer. I'm gonna take a shot. Wish me luck
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