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Eschew

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    Eschew got a reaction from Vantu24 in Murica (But international) Parrot Gang   
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    Eschew reacted to saintlouisbagels in Looking to make my own mechanical keyboard, where do i start?   
    Holy sh** how is this not a stickied post.
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    Eschew reacted to GarlicDeliverySystem in Looking to make my own mechanical keyboard, where do i start?   
    I don't know why this hasn't crossed my mind yet, but have a look here:
     
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    Eschew got a reaction from GarlicDeliverySystem in An Introduction to Custom Mechanical Keyboards   
    An Introduction to Custom Mechanical Keyboards
     
    [0.0] Table of Contents (Navigation: CTRL-F)
    [1.0] Introduction -- Purpose
             [1.1] Frequently Asked/Anticipated Questions
             [1.2] Proof-Reading, Fact-Checking, and Contributions
    [2.0] Keyboard Sizes, Profiles, and Layouts
             [2.1] Sizes
             [2.2] Profiles
             [2.3] Mechanical/Physical Layouts
             [2.4] Functional Layouts
    [3.0] Pre-Built Mechanical Keyboards
    [4.0] Custom Mechanical Keyboards
             [4.1] Parts
             [4.2] Compatibility Check
             [4.3] Tools
             [4.4] Assembly
             [4.5] Firmware and Software
             [4.6] Designing Your Own Keyboard
             [4.7] Maintenance and Cleaning
    [5.0] Switches
             [5.1] Clicky, Tactile, and Linear
             [5.2] Parts
             [5.3] Tools
             [5.4] Flavors
             [5.5] Preferences and Opinion Pieces
    [6.0] Online Vendors and Marketplaces (Link)
    [7.0] All Finished!
             [7.1] Special Thanks!
             [7.2] Related Reading & Other Material
             [7.3] Auto-Rejected Suggestions
             [7.4] Bibliography
             [7.5] Revision History - Last Updated: 10/01/2021
     
     
    [1.0] Introduction -- Purpose
    To consolidate the basics of building custom mechanical keyboards into one place on the forums, and to explain the topic in layman’s terms. The emphasis here is on custom mechanical keyboards, although some sections may also be applicable to other keyboards.
     
    What does this thread cover?
    Section 1.0 serves an introductory role and aims to provide a bird’s eye view of the covered topics.
    Section 2.0 provides some background info applicable to keyboards in general.
    Section 3.0 presents some justifications for both pre-built and custom mechanical keyboards.
    Section 4.0 covers the basics needed to build, set up, and care for a custom mechanical keyboard.
    Section 5.0 covers the basics related to choosing and customizing mechanical keyboard switches.
    Section 6.0 lists some legitimate sites to purchase custom keyboards and keyboard parts from.
    Section 7.0 contains some closing notes and the standard logistical things that go into a primer/guide.
     
    [1.1] Frequently Asked/Anticipated Questions
     
    [1.2] Proof-Reading, Fact-Checking, and Contributions
     
     
    [2.0] Keyboard Sizes and Layouts
    Here follows a visual introduction to keyboard sizes, profiles, and layouts, along with some key generalizations (teehee).
     
    [2.1] Sizes
    Keyboard size is based on the length of the keyboard compared to a full-sized one. The most common sizes are full-sized (100%), tenkeyless/TKL (80%), and compact (60%). The number and types of keys available for each size varies between keyboards, with generalizations being less applicable once you dip into the compact zone.
     
    Full-Sized (100%)

    104 Keys (ANSI), 105 Keys (ISO) Alphanumeric Keys: Yes Modifier Keys: Yes System Keys: Yes Function Keys: Yes Special/Edit Keys: Yes Navigation Keys: Yes Numeric Keypad: Yes  
    1800-Compact

    104-81 Keys (ANSI), 105-82 Keys (ISO) Alphanumeric Keys: Yes Modifier Keys: Most System Keys: Yes Function Keys: Perhaps Special/Edit Keys: Perhaps Navigation Keys: Yes Numeric Keypad: Yes  
    Tenkeyless/TKL (87%, 85%, or 80%)

    87 Keys (ANSI), 88 Keys (ISO) Alphanumeric Keys: Yes Modifier Keys: Yes System Keys: Yes Function Keys: Yes Special/Edit Keys: Yes Navigation Keys: Yes Numeric Keypad: No  
    Compact (75%)

    82/83/84 Keys (ANSI), 84/85 Keys (ISO) Alphanumeric Keys: Yes Modifier Keys: Yes System Keys: Yes Function Keys: Yes Special/Edit Keys: Yes Navigation Keys: Yes Numeric Keypad: No  
    Compact (65%)

    65-70 Keys (ANSI), 65-70 Keys (ISO) Alphanumeric Keys: Yes Modifier Keys: Yes System Keys: Yes Function Keys: No (Accessible w/FN Key) Special/Edit Keys: Some Navigation Keys: Yes Numeric Keypad: No  
    Compact (60%)

    61 Keys (ANSI), 62 Keys (ISO) Alphanumeric Keys: Yes Modifier Keys: Yes System Keys: Yes Function Keys: No (Accessible w/FN Key) Special/Edit Keys: No (Accessible w/FN Key) Navigation Keys: No Numeric Keypad: No  
    Compact (40%)

    40-50 Keys (ANSI), 40-50 Keys (ISO) Alphanumeric Keys: Yes (No Number Row, Some Typographical Symbols) Modifier Keys: Some System Keys: Perhaps Function Keys: No (Accessible w/FN Key) Special/Edit Keys: No (Accessible w/FN Key) Navigation Keys: No Numeric Keypad: No  
    [2.2] Profiles
    Keyboard profile is the vertical shape of the keyboard, as in, the heights of each row of keys relative to one another. Note the angle of the backplane, as well as the heights and shape (sculpted/angular or uniform/flat) of each key row.
     

    Curved: Backplane is curved, keycaps are sculpted and at the same height. Contoured/Sculpted: Backplane is angled, keycaps are sculpted and at different heights. Staircase: Backplane is angled, keycaps are slightly sculpted and at the same height. Flat: Backplane is level, keycaps are level and at the same height.  
    [2.3] Mechanical/Physical Layouts
    Mechanical layout is the physical arrangement of keys on the keyboard, and is different from functional layout (Section [2.3]). The most common layouts are ANSI, ISO, and JIS (JIS won’t be covered here). Variants and other layouts do exist besides the ones listed below.
     
    Note: U refers to an arbitrary unit of measurement. For instance, if 1U is the length of a standard key, 2U will be roughly double that length.
     
    ANSI (American National Standards Institute)

    2U Backspace Key 1.5U Tab Key 1.75U Caps Lock Key 2.25U Enter/Return Key 2.25U Left Shift Key, 2.75U Right Shift Key 1.25U Alt Keys Backtick/Tilde Key: Below Esc Key, Beside 1 Key Hashtag Key: Between 2 and 4 Key At Symbol Key: Between 1 and 3 Keys Backslash/Pipe Key: Above Enter/Return Key  
    ISO (International Organization for Standardization)

    2U Backspace Key 1.5U Tab Key European Enter/Return Key 1.25U Left Shift Key, 2.75U Right Shift Key 1.25U Left Alt Key, 1.25U Right Alt Gr Key Backtick/Negation Key: Below Esc Key, Beside 1 Key Pound Symbol Key: Between 2 and 4 Key Hashtag/Tilde Key: Between Apostrophe/At Symbol and Enter/Return Keys Backslash/Pipe Key: Between Left Shift and Z Keys  
    Ortholinear/Matrix

    Matrix “Stagger”: Non-Staggered Keys All 1U Keys (Except Spacebar)  
    Ergonomic

    Columnar Stagger (Picture) or Symmetric Stagger (Not Pictured)  
    [2.4] Functional Layouts
    Functional layout is the firmware-mapped arrangement of keys on the keyboard, and is different from mechanical/physical layout (Section 2.3). The most widely used layout is QWERTY, but other layouts and variants of these layouts also exist and may be more popular in certain countries.
     
    QWERTY

     
    QWERTZ

     
    AZERTY

     
    Dvorak

     
    Colemak

     
     
    [3.0] Pre-Built Mechanical Keyboards
    Hesitant about dishing out the time, money, and energy for a custom? Not to worry, pre-builts are always an alternative. Sure, pre-builts can get a lot of flak from the custom keeb community, but hey, different keystrokes for different folks. At the end of the day, if your keyboard satisfies you, then I'd say your opinion is valid.
     
    As always, exceptions, niche cases, and workarounds exist.
     
    Generally speaking, what do pre-built mechanical keyboards offer that custom ones don’t?
    Plug n’ Play: No additional tools and no assembly time needed to get your board up and running. Built-In Multimedia Controls: Convenient. Also, neat party tricks. USB Passthrough: When you have too many dongles and not enough ports. RGB Ecosystems: Sync your battlestation’s lights! Assuming that you’ve bought your keyboard, mouse, headset, and other peripherals from the same brand. Customer Support/Warranties: If your keyboard has a problem, make that problem someone else’s problem. YMMV when it comes to actual helpfulness, however.  
    Generally speaking, what do custom mechanical keyboards offer that pre-built ones don’t?
    Customization Options: The sky is the limit! Actually, store availability and your wallet are. But! If you have some D.T. tools and the know-how, the possibilities broaden even further. Customizability ranges all the way from hardware to firmware: aesthetics (case, keycaps, lighting effects), acoustics (click and clack), feeling (actuation, tactility, lubrication), re-programmability (layers, macros), etc. Quality Parts: Say no to scratchy knockoff switches, and forget about keycap wear and sticky keys. Invest some time and money into your parts, and you can build a daily driver that’ll last you for years. Easier Parts Repair: Picking your own parts means you’ll know exactly what’s going on in your build. Usually. If a keycap’s broken, the case gets horribly scratched, or the cable frays, you’ll be able to source individual parts or compatible alternatives from online vendors quite easily. Not so for pre-builts, since brands often don’t sell individual proprietary parts. Easier Parts Replacement: Are you fickle of heart and bored of your board? Thinking of switching things up? Or did some keycaps capture your interest? The hardest thing you’ll have to do is shop for physically compatible parts. Want to do the same with a pre-built? You’re pretty much married to that case. And good luck trying to find keycaps that’ll fit that non-standard stem and/or bottom row.  
    ...You can probably tell where my bias lies. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
     
    Additional Resources
    Keycap Layout and Size Chart: A visual guide to standard and non-standard OEM keyboard layouts. Useful reference for choosing keycaps that will be compatible with the listed pre-built keyboards.  
     
    [4.0] Custom Mechanical Keyboards
    Got your mind set on building a custom mechanical keyboard? Sweet! Then you’ll want to know about its parts, the tools needed for the build, and the assembly process. After the build, you might want to check out any firmware or software you’ll need, and well as maintenance and cleaning tips and tricks.
     
    [4.1] Parts
    A good place to start before building anything is to know what parts make up your build, and to find out whether said parts are compatible with: one, your needs, and two, other parts.
     
    Printed Circuit Board/PCB
    Simply put, a printed circuit board is a non-conductive board with circuitry (traces, most often made of copper) and components that are etched or soldered onto it. The components determine what basic and additional features the PCB will offer. Some PCBs also have designs or useful legends silkscreened on to them.
     

    Standard PCB: A PCB equipped with a microcontroller, a diode for every switch, and a mini-USB or USB-C connector. RGB PCB: A PCB also equipped with LEDs by every switch socket and an LED driver chip to light up the scene. Some RGB PCBs also support neat sound-controlled/coordinated RGB. Hot-Swappable PCB: A PCB also equipped with hotswap sockets that allows switches to be installed and removed from the board without any soldering or desoldering.  
    For a more in-depth explanation of the function and purpose of a PCB's electronic components, please check out mini_cardboard: a 4% keyboard build log and how keyboards work by @minibois!
    Section [1.2] - [1.4]: On microcontrollers, matrices, switches, resistors, and diodes. Section [2]: On PCB design, microcontroller firmware, and traces. Section [11]: Glossary of frequently used terms related to keyboard electronics.  
    Case
    A case offers some basic physical shock- and water-resistance for the board’s delicate internals, and also adds some flair to your build. Every case should come with mounting holes that align with the keyboard’s PCB.
     

    Acrylic: Solid material that’s easy to maintain. Semi-transparent variants can pair up with RGB PCBs for interesting lighting effects unattainable with wood or metal cases. Wood: Solid material with a very distinct aesthetic thanks to its wood grain. Durability and color retention as time passes might vary depending on the type of wood and finishing used. Anodized Aluminum: Solid, weighty, and durable. Often coated with a protective matte layer.  
    Mounting Plate
    A mounting plate is a flat sheet of material -- commonly stainless steel or aluminum, but also plastics and carbon fiber -- that rests above the PCB and holds a keyboard’s switches in place. Different materials offer varying levels of flexing and affect the keyboard’s clack, or the sound produced when the switch bottoms out. The general rule of thumb is denser mediums create higher-pitched sounds.
     
    Note: Mounting plates are often not essential for a keyboard with PCB-mounted switches, but can improve the switches’ stability and avoid misaligned switches (for the OCD-sensitive, like yours truly).
     

    Brass: Very stiff and dense material. Produces higher-pitched clacks. Stainless Steel: Very stiff and dense material. Produces higher-pitched clacks. Aluminum: Fairly stiff and dense material. Produces higher-pitched clacks. Carbon Fiber: Lightweight material. Produces higher-pitched clacks. Acrylic: Stiff material. Produces lower-pitched clacks. Polycarbonate: Stiff material. Produces lower-pitched clacks. ABS: Softer material. Produces more muted clacks. FR4: Softer material. Produces more muted clacks. POM: Softer, flexible material. Produces more muted clacks. Plateless: No material. Produces slightly quieter, fainter clacks than plated counterparts.  
    Plates may be mounted in a number of different ways in a keyboard, to varying degrees of stability and convenience.
     

    (Click to Enlarge.)
    Source: Custom Keyboard Mounting Styles from Thomas Baart.
     
    Switches
    The mechanical switch is a contained unit responsible for the feel and clicks (or lack of clicks) of the keyboard. In terms of compatibility, switches can be divided into PCB-mounted switches and plate-mounted switches.
     

    Plate-Mounted Switches: Switches secured in place by a mounting plate, has only three pins. Usually offers more stability than PCB-mounted switches. PCB-Mounted Switches: Switches secured in place by the PCB, has at least five pins. Two of these pins are plastic-molded prongs, and for some switches, can be snipped off to irreversibly convert a PCB-mounted switch to a plate-mounted switch.  
    Note that keyboard parts compatible with one switch may not be compatible with other switches. For example, an MX-compatible PCB has a specific pin layout for MX-style switches, and will not accommodate Alps switches (exceptions exist, of course).
     
    The world of switches is deep and vast, and deserves its own segment (Section 5.0).
     
    Stabilizers
    A wire stabilizer, outfitted on larger (2U+) keycaps, is a stiff wire designed to keep the entire keycap steady and level during a keypress. Often, the wire fits between two pegs that are connected to the keycap, but in Cherry MX “leveling mechanisms” (i.e. stabilizers™) the wire rests between two mini-switch-thingies that either clip into or are screwed directly into the PCB.
     

    Plate-Mounted Stabilizers: Stabilizers with housings that clip into the mounting plate. These are installed after the mounting plate has been attached to the PCB, and mounting plates must have specific cutouts to be compatible with plate-mounted stabilizers. PCB-Mounted Stabilizers: Stabilizers with housings that clip into the PCB. These are installed before the mounting plate is attached to the PCB, and PCBs must have specific holes cut out to be compatible with PCB-mounted stabilizers. Most mounting plates with rectangular stabilizer cutouts will be compatible with PCB-mounted stabilizers. Screw-In Stabilizers: Stabilizers with housings that screw into the PCB. These are installed before the mounting plate is attached to the PCB, and PCBs must have specific holes cut out to be compatible with screw-in stabilizers. Most mounting plates with rectangular stabilizer cutouts will be compatible with PCB-mounted stabilizers. Costar Stabilizers: Stabilizers with a wire that hooks into the keycap. Most commonly found on older keyboards.  
    Stabilizer sets usually come in sets of 4 × 2U stabilizers, plus either a 1 × 6.25U or 1 × 7U spacebar stabilizer, fit for compact and TKL layouts. Full-sized and 1800-compact keyboards will require 5 to 7 × 2U stabilizers, plus a 1 × 6.25U or 1 × 7U spacebar stabilizer. Some custom ortholinear and ergonomic keyboards use 1 to 4 × 2U stabilizers (e.g. Planck, Ergodox), while others do not use stabilizers entirely (e.g. Corne, Dactyl Manuform).
     
    Keycaps
    Keycaps are the covers that fit over a switch’s stem and that make physical contact with your fingers during a keypress. Different keycap selections can completely overhaul a keyboard’s aesthetics, thanks to the myriad of keycap materials, shapes, and designs that are available.
     
    Note: Keycap mounts are not universally compatible with all types of switch stems. The most common mount is the MX-style mount (cross-shaped), but other types exist as well.
     

    ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene): Plastic with a smooth texture and slightly glossy look. Surface layer often rubs away with prolonged use, resulting in ‘ABS shine.’ Also, gradually discolors when exposed to sunlight/UV light -- discoloration is most noticeable on white keycaps. PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate): Hard and durable plastic with a somewhat rough, grainy surface texture and a matte finish. Surface layer is more resistant to ‘shine,’ and does not discolor with light exposure. POM (Polyoxymethylene/Acetal): Hard, durable, and dense plastic with a semi-opaque, smooth finish. Surface layer is more resistant to ‘shine.’ PC (Polycarbonate): Durable plastic with a smooth, transparent surface. Surface layer is more resistant to 'shine,' and does not discolor with light exposure. Resin: Viscous substance solidified into a rigid, plastic-like material with a smooth, glossy finish. Usually molded around unique, hand-sculpted miniatures to preserve the piece’s delicate details while maintaining keycap functionality -- think, museum display cases. SLA/Stereolithography Resin: Rigid plastic-like material with a smooth finish. Often used in 3D printing to create unique, highly-detailed, limited-run designs. Metal: Hard, durable, and very dense material with a smooth texture and shiny, reflective finish. Probably a smudge magnet, based on pure speculation. Whole keysets are difficult to find outside of Etsy commissions. Rubber: Soft, dense material with an opaque, textured (usually cross-hatched) surface. Appears to be a rubber sleeve fitted around a plastic shell?  
    Keycaps also come in a variety of profile shapes, and whether a keyboard is high-profile or low-profile depends partly on the height of its keycaps; the other deciding factor is switch type. Sculpted keycaps have a slight angle built into the keycap, while uniform keycaps are flat.
     

    Standard/OEM Profile: Sculpted keycaps with a level surface. Cherry Profile: Sculpted keycaps with a level surface and a slightly lower profile and shorter height compared to OEM profile keycaps. DCS Profile: Sculpted keycaps with a level surface, quite similar to Cherry profile keycaps. SA Profile: High-profile, sculpted keycaps with a slightly spherical indent in the middle of the keycap. KAT Profile: Sculpted keycaps with a slightly spherical indent in the middle of the keycap, has a slightly lower profile and shorter height compared to SA profile keycaps. MT3 Profile: High-profile, sculpted keycaps with a slightly spherical indent in the middle of the keycap, slightly different than SA profile keycaps. MG Profile: High-profile, sculpted keycaps with a very visible concave indent. MDA Profile: Sculpted keycaps with a gently curved surface. DSA Profile: Uniform keycaps with a slightly spherical indent in the middle of the keycap. XDA Profile: Uniform keycaps with a larger surface area compared to DSA profile keycaps. Keycaps.info: For a more in-depth and slightly more quantitative comparison of keycap profile shapes and heights. Options to toggle between Cherry MX or Choc spacing, or to add and remove specific keycap profiles, are available.
     
    Legends refer to the inscriptions or designs on a surface. The type of printing used for keycap legends affects its visual quality and durability. Most legends are printed on the surface of the keycap, but side-printed options are available as well. Some blank keycaps eschew legends entirely (hehe, Eschew).
     

    Pad Printed: Keycaps with legends inked directly onto its surface. Decent visual quality, but the ink wears away easily from frequent contact. Laser Etched: Keycaps with legends marked onto the surface with a laser. Decent visual quality with straight lines, but not with solid fill areas (e.g. arrowheads, Windows symbol). Laser etching may also fade away on keycaps susceptible to ‘shine.’ Laser Printed: Keycaps with legends marked onto the surface with a laser and ink filled in the lasered grooves. Decent visual quality, but the ink can stain easily and the laser etching may fade away on keycaps susceptible to ‘shine.’ Laser Engraved: Transparent keycaps that are coated in an opaque paint, with legends lasered off from the opaque surface coat to create transparent characters. Often used for backlit keycaps. Decent visual quality, but the surface coat may wear away from frequent contact, revealing the transparent keycap beneath. Dye Sublimation: Keycaps with legends permanently stained in the material, just beneath the surface. Decent visual quality for dark dyes on lighter surfaces, but ineffective for lighter-colored lettering on darker surfaces. Quite long-lasting, and resistant to ‘shine.’ Double-Shot: Keycaps with legends molded from one piece of plastic, while the rest of the keycap is molded in another piece. Contrasting colors offer decent visuals, and because the legends are made of molded plastic rather than removeable ink, ‘shine’ isn’t an issue. Side-Printed: Keycaps with legends printed on one of its vertical sides, with the legends facing the user. Blank: Keycaps without any printed legends.  
    Keys may be illuminated in single or multiple colors if the keyboard’s PCB supports LED/RGB functionality. Some keycaps take advantage of LED/RGB lighting with backlit legends, LED windows, or translucency.
     

    Backlit/Shine-Through: Keycaps with transparent legends that can be illuminated by the LEDs underneath. Windowed: Keycaps with a small, transparent section that can be illuminated by the LEDs underneath. Pudding: Keycaps with an opaque top surface and semi-opaque walls that can be illuminated by the LEDs underneath. Resembles the two layers of a flan pudding, hence the name. Jelly: POM keycaps with a semi-opaque surface that can be illuminated by the LEDs underneath. Has a very soft and muted color when illuminated. Translucent: PC keycaps that are clear and sometimes tinted, revealing both the switch and the LEDs underneath.  
    Sound Dampeners
    Sound dampeners are optional additions and fit around either the switch’s or keycap’s stem to soften the clack of the keyboard. Clacks are different from clicks; the former refers to the dull, muted sound produced when the switch bottoms out, whereas the latter refers to the sharp, high-pitched sound produced by a clicky switch.
     

    O-Rings: Rubber rings that fit tightly around the keycap’s stem, reducing both the keystroke’s clack and travel distance. Mostly recommended for rounded keycap stems; mileages may vary with other switch stems. Diameter: Diameter is tied to stem compatibility. Recommended diameters are 5mm for MX-style keycaps and 7mm for Topre-style keycaps. Thickness: Thickness is tied to keystroke travel distance, with thicker rings greatly reducing travel distance. Thicknesses can range from 0.2mm up to 2.5mm. Hardness: Hardness, rated along a Shore A durometer scale, is tied to keystroke mushiness and clack softening. Lower hardness (30A - 40A) are softer in both feeling and sound, while higher hardness (70A - 80A) are firmer and less effective for sound-dampening. Soft-Landing Pads: Rubbery material with a circular cut-out that fits loosely around the switch’s stem, reducing the keystroke’s clack and cushioning the bottom out. Silencing Clips: Plastic casings that clip over the top of the switch, reducing the keystroke’s clack and cushioning the bottom out. Compatibility is mostly limited to MX-style switches and thinner keycaps.  
    Other ways to dampen keyboard noises, vibrations, and ping-y clacks exist, including but not limited to: gasket-mounted plates, sound-absorbing foam, soft rubber feet, etc.
     
    Cabling
    Most, if not all, wired custom mechanical keyboards use the USB 2.0 standard and HID subprotocol. USB 3.0 is quite rare on keyboards, and the max signaling rate increase from 480 Mbps to 5 Gbps usually has a very negligible observable impact.
     
    Wireless customs also exist, but are far less common compared to wired ones.
     

    Plain Cabling: Cables that use plastic cable jackets. Comes in straight and coiled variants, and the only differences seem to be aesthetics and total cable length. Paracorded Cabling: Cables with a layer of lightweight nylon wrapped over its cable jacket, often in a braided pattern, that lends it additional durability. Double-Sleeved Cabling: Cables with an additional layer of PET sleeving wrapped around its nylon cord and cable jacket, often in a braided pattern, that lends it additional durability and rigidity.  

    USB Type-A Connector: One-way connectors. USB Type-C Connector: Reversible connectors. Micro-USB Connector: One-way connectors. Mini-USB Connector: One-way connectors. Aviator Connector (4-pin or 5-pin): Connectors fitted part-way on a cable for convenient attachment and detachment, and as a fashion statement. Wireless: Relies on Bluetooth/USB receivers, often operates at 2.4 GHz frequencies.  
    For those interested in custom cabling, cable vendors recommend keeping the total cable length below 9 ft (≈ 2.7 m) for keyboards with high power requirements, or below 13 ft (≈ 4 m) for all other keyboards. Longer cables may have issues delivering power to the board, and certain features (e.g. LED brightness, specific keys) may be diminished or disabled. Keyboards with high power requirements include: Drop CTRL, Drop ALT, Drop Shift, Ducky One 2 Mini, K-Type NOTE, and HHKB Keyboards.
     
    [4.2] Compatibility Check
    Aftermarket keyboard parts are a mixed bag of standardized (e.g. switches) and non-standardized parts (e.g. PCBs). Comb through the shopping cart with one last compatibility check before hitting that checkout button!
    If in doubt, the keyboard community here is more than happy to help! It's as easy as creating a thread in the Peripherals sub-forum. 😁
     
    PCB
    With Case: Does the case fit the PCB's form factor? (If Applicable) Does the PCB's mounting holes align with the corresponding screw holes in the case? With Mounting Plate: Does the mounting plate fit the PCB's form factor and physical layout? With Switches: (If 5-Pin Switches) Does the PCB's switch sockets have holes cut out for the plastic legs of 5-pin switches? With Stabilizers: (If PCB-Mounted Stabilizers) Does the PCB have holes cut out for the screws of PCB-mounted stabilizers?  
    Case
    With PCB: Does the case fit the PCB's form factor? (If Applicable) Does the PCB's mounting holes align with the corresponding screw holes in the case?  With Mounting Plate: Does the case fit the mounting plate's form factor? How is the plate mounted to the case? (If Applicable) Does the plate's mounting holes align with the corresponding screw holes in the case?  
    Mounting Plate
    With PCB: Does the mounting plate fit the PCB's form factor and physical layout? With Case: Does the case fit the mounting plate's form factor? How is the plate mounted to the case? (If Applicable) Does the plate's mounting holes align with the corresponding screw holes in the case? With Stabilizers: (If Plate-Mounted Stabilizers) Does the mounting plate have holes cut out for the clips of plate-mounted stabilizers?  
    Switches
    With PCB: (If 5-Pin Switches) Does the PCB's switch sockets have holes cut out for the plastic legs of 5-pin switches? (If 3-Pin Only PCB) Recall that for 5-pin switches, the two plastic legs on either side of the central plastic nub may be cut off to be compatible with 3-pin only PCBs.  
    Stabilizers
    With PCB: (If PCB-Mounted Stabilizers) Does the PCB have holes cut out for the screws of PCB-mounted stabilizers? With Mounting Plate: (If Plate-Mounted Stabilizers) Does the mounting plate have holes cut out for the clips of plate-mounted stabilizers?  
    Keycaps
    With PCB Layout: Examine the PCB's physical layout(s) carefully, and pay special attention to the Modifier and Bottom Row keys. Does the PCB's Bottom Row come with a 6.5U Spacebar (Standard), a 7U Spacebar (Tsangan), or does it follow a different arrangement? Does the keycap set come outfitted with the adequate Modifier, Bottom Row, and other keycaps for the desired physical layout?  
    Cable
    With PCB: What USB connector will fit in the PCB's USB port? USB Type-C, micro-USB, mini-USB, or something else?  
    [4.3] Tools
    If the right parts are chosen, the entire assembly process can be toolless. Disassembly, however, will always require a few tools - assuming you’d like to keep your parts free of dings and scratches.
     
    Main tools are prioritized below, followed by alternatives and optional items in indented bullet-points.
    Soldering Iron: A 40W - 60W soldering iron with a stand is recommended for occasional or one-off soldering work. Irons with lower wattages may create bad solder joints. Digital Soldering Station: A soldering station equipped with a soldering iron, a stand, a temperature control, and a tip cleaner/wet sponge. Recommended for frequent soldering work, but a fair bit more expensive than your standard soldering iron. Soldering Gun: A gun loaded with a soldering iron and solder, operates at high wattages, outputs a lot of heat, and has no temperature control. Not recommended for circuitry and mechanical keyboard building. Desoldering Pump/Solder Sucker: Solder suckers come in plunger (spring-loaded piston) and bulb (rubber bulb, Teflon tip) variants, and they both work by vacuum-suctioning up heated solder. Desoldering Braid/Wick: Fine copper wire woven into a flat braid, removes heated solder via capillary action. Desoldering Gun: A gun loaded with an electric vacuum pump. Costs a pretty penny and a little overkill for mechanical keyboard building, but saves you some stress and headaches. Solder: A metal alloy that with low melting point that is melted to form joints between two metal connections. For mechanical keyboards, a solder diameter of 0.8mm (0.031”) is generally recommended. 63/37 Sn-Pb (Tin-Lead): Melts at 183°C (361°F). Roisin-core solder may produce toxic, irritating fumes. 60/40 Sn-Pb (Tin-Lead): Melts at 188°C (370°F). Roisin-core solder may produce toxic, irritating fumes. Lead-Free Solder: Compared to leaded solder, is more expensive, has a higher melting point, flows slower, and may also produce toxic, irritating fumes. Soldering Fume Extractor: Draws solder fumes away from the user with fans. Not necessary if you keep your work area well-ventilated. Very overkill for a one-off build, but probably useful for frequent soldering work. Screwdriver: A #1 Phillips screwdriver (i.e. your standard screwdriver) should be compatible with most custom cases, which often use M2 screws to secure the PCB to the chassis. Keycap Pullers: Keycap pullers lock their loops/prongs around a keycap and remove them with a pull. They most commonly come in wire puller and plastic ring variants. Wire pullers are highly recommended over plastic pullers, as the latter is more prone to leaving unsightly marks on keycaps in the removal process. Twist Ties/Paper Clips: A low-cost, ghetto, but perfectly functional solution. Possibly better than plastic ring pullers. Switch Puller: Switch pullers work similarly to keycap pullers, by locking their tips around a switch’s bottom housing and removing the desoldered switch with a pull. They come in tongs-like or ring-like variants, and are usually all-metal or have metal tips.  
    [4.4] Assembly
    The fun part! A clean, clutter-free, and organized workspace is recommended. Here’s the How-To.
     
    Note: Testing parts are completely optional, but are useful for troubleshooting or sanity checks.
     
    1. PCB and Screw-In Stabilizers
    If using PCB-mounted and screw-in stabilizers, install those in the PCB before attaching the mounting plate. Align the stabilizer prongs with the holes in the PCB. Orientation is important. Slide the prongs on the wire-side into the larger stabilizer holes first, then gently but firmly push down on the opposite side until the housing lies flush against the PCB. For screw-in stabilizers, install the stabilizer screws on the opposite side of the PCB. Testing LED/RGB: The PCB’s LEDs can be tested simply by plugging it into a powered USB port and watching the board automatically illuminate. Testing PCB Keys: With a pair of tweezers and Keyboard Checker, each key can be tested by touching the tweezers to the two pads (ring-like holes) that each switch’s pins align into.  
    2A. Standard PCBs - Mounting Plate, Plate-Mounted Stabilizers, Switches, Solder, and Case
    Pre-heat the soldering iron up to 350°C - 370°C (662°F - 698°F). Clean and iron the tip, if necessary. Align the four switches that fit into the four corners of the keyboard on the mounting plate, and fit the loose, unsoldered plate-plus-switches assembly on the PCB. If aligned properly, each switch’s pins should fit into their corresponding holes on the PCB. Testing Keycap Alignment: Before the switches are soldered in, fit a few keycaps on the switches, preferably on some switches in a row, to check that the switches are fitted properly and that the keycaps will be aligned neatly. Solder each switch to the PCB by pressing the soldering iron tip to the PCB pad, making contact with the switch’s pin, and drawing the solder towards the heated tip. A good solder joint will have a concave, cone-like shape. If using plate-mounted stabilizers, install those into the mounting plate. Align the stabilizer wire and housings with the holes in the plate. Orientation is important. Slide the stabilizer wire under the mounting plate on the side with the small indented holes first, then gently but firmly push down on the opposite side until the housing clips into the mounting plate. Once the four corner switches have been soldered in and the stabilizers have been installed, repeat the soldering process with the rest of the keyboard’s switches. Testing Keys: Each key can be tested with Keyboard Checker by pressing down on each switch. Fit the soldered PCB-plus-switches assembly into the case, aligning the mounting plate and PCB’s mounting holes with those on the case. Screw the soldered assembly to the case with some M2 screws (usually 4 or 5 screws) and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. If the case is a two-piece construction (top and bottom), attach or screw the top frame over the bottom base.  
    2B. Hot-Swappable PCBs - Case, Mounting Plate, Plate-Mounted Stabilizers, and Switches
    Fit the PCB and mounting plate into the case, aligning the PCB and mounting plate’s mounting holes with those on the case. Screw the PCB-plus-plate assembly to the case with some M2 screws (usually 4 or 5 screws) and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. If the case is a two-piece construction (top and bottom), attach or screw the top frame over the bottom base. If using plate-mounted stabilizers, install those into the mounting plate. Align the stabilizer wire and housings with the holes in the plate. Orientation is important. Slide the stabilizer wire under the mounting plate on the side with the small indented holes first, then gently but firmly push down on the opposite side until the housing clips into the mounting plate. Align each switch’s pins with their corresponding holes on the PCB, and press down firmly. It should install with a dull click. Double-check that the switch is level against the plate. Repeat the process with the rest of the keyboard’s switches. Testing Keys: Each key can be tested with Keyboard Checker by pressing down on each switch.  
    4. Keycaps and Sound Dampeners
    Fit any sound dampeners over their respective keycap or switch stems. Fit each keycap over its corresponding switch’s stem and press down firmly. Testing Keyboard: Each key can be tested on Keyboard Checker. Typing Test: Test your WPM with your newly assembled keyboard on Typing.com.  
    [4.5] Firmware and Software
    Firmware coordinates inputs and directives between the physical keyboard and applications or software installed on the computer. Whether a keyboard supports custom firmware, and which custom firmware is compatible with the keyboard, will depend on what microcontroller is installed on the PCB. Some custom firmware support different lighting effects, multiple layers, re-programmable keys, and additional features.
     
    Software, on the other hand, is handled entirely by the computer and can offer other features that firmware lacks.
     
    Note: The lists below are not all-inclusive.
     
    Firmware
    Animus Family Firmware: GitHub EasyAVR: GeekHack Thread, Deskthority Wiki Page, GitHub Kiibohd Controller: GitHub QMK: Website, GitHub TMK: GeekHack Thread, GitHub VIA: Website, GitHub Vial: Website, GitHub  
    Software
    AutoHotkey: Website  
    [4.6] Designing Your Own Keyboard
    For those interested in making their keyboard truly custom.
     
    Custom Design Guides
    Sorted by alphabetical order. Preferably LTT forum content and curated by yours truly, but I’ll entertain suggestions recommending outside sources if requested by reputable members. (Shoo, bots and shills.)
    mini_cardboard: a 4% keyboard build log and how keyboards work by @minibois  
    [4.7] Maintenance and Cleaning
    Owning anything means a certain responsibility is attached to said ownership, and a mechanical keyboard is no different. Keep your custom keeb in tip-top condition with some regular maintenance and cleaning.
     
    Note: Running your custom mechanical keyboard through a dishwasher is generally not recommended. Domestic water isn’t pure H2O and contains other salts and impurities. Plastic materials will likely be fine, but metallic components (copper traces, stabilizer wires, switch springs, etc.) exposed to water and impurities will almost certainly corrode.
     
    General Maintenance
    Compressed Air: Used to blow the dust, crumbs, and other tiny nasties from all the teeny-weeny spaces in your keyboard. Mini/Computer Vacuum: Used to remove dust, crumbs, and other tiny nasties from all the teeny-weeny spaces in your keyboard. Damp Microfiber Cloth/Disinfectant Wipe: Used to wipe down the keyboard’s exterior. Dry Cloth: Used to dry the keyboard from a wet wipe. Paper towels are an alternative, but note that cheapo towels tend to leave fluffy particles behind.  
    Cleaning Keycaps
    Warm Soapy Water: Soak keycaps in a bowl of warm, soapy water for 45-60 min, then rinse and dry them off. Denture cleanser tablets will work as well. Alcohol (Isopropyl, Acetone, Etc.): Not recommended. Some ABS and PBT plastics, as well as legends, can discolor or will degrade from concentrated alcohol. Household Cleaners: Only recommended if heavily diluted. Both ABS and PBT plastics, as well as legends, will discolor or degrade from concentrated cleaners.  
     
    [5.0] Switches
    If the PCB makes up the brain of your mechanical keyboard, its switches make up its soul. It’s that feeling you get when you start typing on your keeb, and everything just... clicks. Or clacks. Or bumps.
     
    What follows is a rundown of clicky, tactile, and linear switches, as well as a mechanical switch’s parts, related tools, and flavors. An introduction to optical switches has also been included.
     
    Note: This primer/guide will not cover modding switches.
     
    Optical Switches
    Optical switches, similar to mechanical switches in exterior but functionally different from them, utilize light to register keystrokes.
    Horizontal Light (e.g. Gateron KS-15, LIGHT STRIKE): Within the switch is a horizontal beam of light. At rest, the beam’s path is blocked. When the switch is pressed, the beam’s path is clear, the light reaches a sensor, and a keystroke is registered. Vertical Light (e.g. Aimpad, Flaretech): Within the switch is a vertical beam of light. At rest, the beam travels its full distance (100%). When the switch is pressed, the beam’s path shortens, a sensor reads the change in position (e.g. 75%), and a keystroke is registered. Because different values may be read by the sensor (i.e. 0-100% vs. ON/OFF), users are given more “analog” control over input (e.g. a character’s walking speed). For a visual demonstration of the two optical switches in action, please watch this wonderful video by Techquickie:
    An industry standard for optical switches doesn’t seem to exist as of yet. This means that, in terms of compatibility, a PCB that is compatible with one set of optical switches may not be compatible with optical switches from another manufacturer, and are almost certainly not compatible with mechanical switches. Most optical switches adopt MX-style stems, however, and should be compatible with MX-style keycaps.
     
    [5.1] Clicky, Tactile, and Linear
    Mechanical switches can be sorted into three categories: clicky, tactile, and linear. The categorizations are based on the auditory and tactile feedback the user experiences when the switch is pressed.
    Clicky: Switches with an audible click, and no tactile bump. Tactile: Switches with a tactile bump, comes in both clicky and non-clicky variants. Linear: Switches with neither an audible click nor a tactile bump.  
    Sounds
     
    [5.2] Parts
    Mechanical switches are generally composed of the same parts, give or take a few pieces. That’s not to say that all switches are the same -- switch manufacturers often add tweaks to the base template to create their own unique switch flavors. Note that the generalizations below are based on Cherry MX mechanical switches.
     

     
    Housing
    The housing is made up of an upper housing and a bottom housing. Together, they form the plastic cuboid enclosure that keeps the switch’s parts contained. While it serves a protective purpose, offering some basic physical shock-, water- and dust-resistance for its internals, it also works in tandem with the switch’s spring to provide a consistent and comfortable typing experience.
    Standard Housing: Switches with opaque, often black, housings. SMD-LED Compatible/RGB Housing: Switches with transparent housings that can be illuminated from underneath by LEDs.  
    Leaf
    The leaf consists of two metal contacts that sit in the bottom housing. At rest, the contacts do not touch one another. When the key is pressed, the contacts touch, an electrical circuit is completed, and a keystroke is registered.
     
    Stem
    The stem determines the tactility, stability, and smoothness of the switch. For custom keyboards, the most common and widely compatible stem is the MX-style cross-shaped stem, but similar variants and not-so-similar others also exist.
    Stability/Wobbliness: A characteristic usually affected by gaps between the stem and housing, or the stem and keycap. The more airtight the gap is, the more stable the typing experience will be. Smoothness/Scratchiness: A characteristic largely affected by the friction between the stem and leaf. Smoother stem materials and lubricants can mitigate switch scratchiness.  

    Tactile: Switches with a small bump or indent on the wing of the stem. When the switch is pressed, the stem slides against the leaf, and the uneven surface of the stem’s wing running against the leaf creates the tactile typing sensation. Linear: Switches with a straight wing stem. When the switch is pressed, the stem glides evenly against the leaf for a smooth, non-tactile typing sensation. Clicky: Switches with a sharp typing sensation and an audible click. Stem shapes vary, as the characteristic click sound may be produced by different mechanisms. Click Jacket/Sliding Collar (Pictured Above): A separate plastic piece that is connected to and fits around the bottom of the stem. In its default position, the wings of the click jacket rest against the leaf. When the switch is pressed, the stem pushes down on the click jacket and it shoots straight down to produce a sharp typing sensation and an audible click. Clickbar (Not Pictured): A metal, spring-like piece with an elongated horizontal bar that sits just under the stem's leg. When the switch is pressed, the stem's leg pushes down on the clickbar and it springs back up against the switch's housing to produce an audible click.  
    Spring
    The spring is a metal coil that sits under the stem, and is related to a switch’s actuation force -- the force needed to press down on a switch and to register a keystroke. As a hard and fast rule, heavier springs have higher actuation points. The exact actuation force required for each weight is a little more difficult to determine, as each manufacturer seems to follow their own standards.
     
    Lubricant
    Lubricants aim to reduce the friction between the switch’s stem and leaf/spring to create a smoother-than-default typing experience. They are completely optional, although many enthusiasts will swear by them and some switches may come pre-lubed from the factory.
     

     
    Note: Using random household liquids and cooking oils as switch lubricants is not recommended. They may gum up switches, leave sticky or rancid residue behind, attract dust and other particles, or produce other unpleasant results.
    Thin Lube: Lubricants with lower viscosity. Recommended for switches. Thick Lube: Lubricants with higher viscosity. Recommended for stabilizers.  
    Naming Conventions
    Digits, Grades: Lubricants labelled with lower digits are less viscous. For example, Tribosys 3203 will be less viscous (i.e. thinner) than Tribosys 3204. 10x: Lubricants that are oils. An example is Krytox GPL 104. 20x: Lubricants that are greases. Examples are Krytox GPL 205 and Tribosys 3204. g0: Grade 0 lubricants with a smooth consistency. Recommended for switches and stabilizers.  
    Switch Lubrication Guides
    The process is precise; lubricants should only be applied to areas of the switch that would most benefit from lubrication. Also, results may vary. Lubricants will adhere to some switches better than others.
    How I Lube MX-Style Mechanical Keyboard Switches by @sowon Switch Lubing Guide by @geo3  
    Switch Films
    Switch films, also optional additions, aim to reduce switch wobble. They sit inside the switch, sandwiched between the switch's upper and bottom housings. The end result is a more consistent typing and acoustic experience, as well as a duller clack.
     

     
    [5.3] Tools
    Main tools are prioritized below, followed by alternatives and optional items in indented bullet-points.
    Switch Opener: A small device outfitted with protrusions that are designed to lift the upper housing from the bottom housing of a switch, opening the switch up. Simply align the switch into the opener and press down. Tweezers/Flathead Screwdriver: Both tools may be used to open switches by pushing up from under the upper housing’s clips, but this method is less convenient than a switch opener and carries the risk of damaging the switch’s housing if used recklessly. Tweezers: A pair of tweezers are highly recommended for handling tiny switch parts, especially if you plan to lubricate your switches. Also, it minimizes the amount of finger oils and grime you leave on them. Small Brush (For Lubing): Any small paintbrush with bristles small enough to slide into a switch’s nooks and crannies will do. Not necessary if you don’t plan on lubricating your switch.  
    [5.4] Flavors
    Every person’s tastes are a little bit different, and mechanical switches come in a variety of flavors. Some switches sharing the same stem type even have cross-compatible parts, for those who like a little from column A and a little from column B.
     

     
    The switch specifications below (contained in spoiler tags) have been described as advertised by the manufacturer, but the user’s actual experience might vary. Also, while an effort has been made to include switches that are commonly available, the list is not all-inclusive.
    Type: Classification as clicky, tactile, or linear. Mounting: Compatibility as PCB-mounted or plate-mounted, or whether both options are available. Actuation (cN): Force required to register a keystroke. Pre-Travel (mm): Distance required to register a keystroke. Total Travel (mm): Distance required to bottom out the switch. NDA: No Data Available. (?): Educated Guesses.  
    Alps Stems

     
    Switches with a cuboid stem. Some switches may be difficult to acquire outside of Group Buys (Section 6.0).
     
    MX Stems

     
    Switches with a cross-shaped stem. Some variants enclose the stem in a bracketed or boxed structure, or have hollow central poles.
     
    Topre/NIZ EC Stems

     
    Electrocapacitive switches with a cylindrical-shaped slider that relies on rubber domes for tactility. Incompatible with mechanical keyboards. Generally not available for sale as individual switches, although replacement rubber domes may be purchased and swapped into existing Topre/NIZ EC boards.
     
    [5.5] Preferences and Opinion Pieces
    With hundreds and thousands of options available on the market, choosing the right switch can be a daunting task for first-timers. How do you know which one is the one for you?
     
    Here I echo the old adage: “You’ll never know unless you try.”
     
    Head out to your local brick-and-mortar store, and test the waters out with some pre-built keyboards. That small exercise will usually help narrow down the choices between clickys, tactiles, and linears. Chances are, however, that you’ve seen a switch online that’s caught your eye, and said switch can’t be found in your local area. In that case, stoke that interest by finding out more about it. Look for reviews from others that have shared their opinions on said switch, so you know what to expect. Listen to some sound tests, and perhaps try out some switch testers to find out whether you like how it sounds and feels.
     
    Don’t forget, the purchase isn’t the be-all and end-all of things. If your choice doesn’t live up to your expectations, there’s nothing stopping you from trying again with another set of switches.
     
    Opinion Pieces
    Sorted by alphabetical order. Preferably LTT forum content and curated by yours truly, but I’ll entertain suggestions recommending outside sources if requested by reputable members. (Shoo, bots and shills.)
    Cherry MX Black Review by @sowon Cherry MX Blue Review by @sowon Cherry MX Brown Review by @sowon Gateron Blacks vs Kailh BOX Black vs Cherry MX Black Review by @LukeSavenije Gateron INK Black Review by @sowon Gateron Red Review by @sowon Gateron Yellow Review by @sowon Input Club Hako Violet Review by @sowon Kailh BOX Jade Review by @sowon KBDfans X MITO Laser Switch Review by @sowon NovelKeys Cream Review by @sowon YOK Purple Trash Panda Review by @sowon ZealPC Sakurios Review by @sowon ZealPC Tealio V2 Review by @sowon ZealPC Zealio V2 Review by @sowon ZealPC Zilent V2 Review by @sowon  
     
    [6.0] Online Vendors and Marketplaces
    Custom mechanical keyboards are a fairly niche market, which means most parts are purchased via select routes -- in this case, online. Listed below are where most source their custom keeb parts from.
     
    Only vendors and marketplaces for custom keyboards and keyboard parts will be covered, with a bias for stores accessible from the U.S. Some stores offer international shipping, and for those, I’d strongly advise reading through their shipping policies before placing an international order -- the customer is usually responsible for any import duties and fees. For pre-builts, I’d suggest looking at Amazon, Newegg, or Microcenter.
     
    Group Buys
    What is a Group Buy (GB)? Simply put, a niche within a niche. In some cases, a product -- often keycaps, switches, or keyboards -- will be greenlit for production or distribution only if a number of buyers show interest and a minimum cash goal is reached. Think, Kickstarters. Group Buys may be organized by an organization like Drop, or by individual community members like on GeekHack.
     
    Note: Group Buys are not guarantees. Be aware that there is a risk associated with placing a deposit on a product not yet confirmed for production or distribution.
     
    Links to Resources
    Vendors List: Vendors offering a standard selection of keyboard parts, tools, and accessories. Sorted by Region and Essentials, Keyboard Modding, Switch Modding, Accessories, and Others. Artisan Vendors List: Vendors offering custom work or limited-run and expensive products, often through Group Buys. Sorted by Region and Essentials, Keyboard Modding, Switch Modding, Accessories, and Others. Group Buy Sites List: Sites that monitor the status of active, upcoming, and finished Group Buys.  
    Marketplaces
    Purchase from at your own discretion.
    Aliexpress Amazon Banggood eBay Etsy GeekHack KeebTalk r/mechmarket  
     
    [7.0] All Finished!
    Thanks a bunch for your interest! I’ve tried to keep the primer/guide concise (read: to-the-point) and bias-free where possible, but if I’ve missed something, if you spot a spelling/grammatical error, or if you have any suggestions, please leave a reply. I’ll keep the thread up-to-date when I find new info, for as long as I’m available. Hopefully someone, somewhere, will find this thread useful?
     
    If you’ve managed to build your own custom mechanical keyboard with the help of this primer/guide, congratulations! Treat your lil’ or biggun keeb well, and it’ll serve you just as well. 😁👍
     
    Join the Mechanical Keyboard Club and show off your keebs! #KeebWeebClub
     
    [7.1] Special Thanks!
    @geo3 for their excellent Switch Lubing Guide, for vendor and firmware suggestions, for providing a link to some keycap profile comparisons, and for answering my doubts about the Winnja store! @sowon for their excellent Switch Lubing Guide and beautifully-written Switch Reviews! @LukeSavenije for their Gateron vs Kailh vs Cherry Blacks Switch Review! @Dissitesuxba11s for providing a list of vendors and an OEM layout reference! @bowrilla for bringing the QWERTZ keyboard layout to my attention! @seon123 for pointing out misinformation under the 1800-Compact and Stem - Clicky entries, for bringing film switches to my attention, and for vendor suggestions! @kelvinhall05 for contributing to the list of vendors! @minibois for their thorough-yet-accessible mini_cardboard Build Log/Guide!  
    [7.2] Related Reading & Other Material
    Priority given to written material, followed by videos; sorted in alphabetical order. Preferably LTT forum content, but I’ll entertain suggestions recommending outside sources if requested by reputable members. (Shoo, bots and shills.)
     
    [7.3] Auto-Rejected Suggestions
    Suggestions that I will not cover. However, if someone else has made a well-written and informative guide on these topics, I’d be more than happy to consider adding it to the thread.
     
    [7.4] Bibliography
     
    [7.5] Revision History - Last Updated: 07/20/2021
  5. Like
    Eschew reacted to Lurick in OCServ Setup on OPNSense   
    Fixed the interfaces issue, just add a floating rule for IPv4 and IPv6 networks handed out over the VPN instead.
    Updated to include IPv6 network assignment and handing out a /128 per client.
  6. Like
    Eschew reacted to Lurick in OCServ Setup on OPNSense   
    The only issue I have is that disconnect and reconnect can sometimes make a new interface which is a pita. I haven't found a way in OPNSense to just group all interfaces with vpns into one so I don't have to assign each new one to an opt interface.
     
    Edit:
    Just realized I can make a floating rule, lol
  7. Like
    Eschew reacted to Lurick in OCServ Setup on OPNSense   
    This was an adventure for sure so I figured a guide was in order for anyone else looking to setup openconnect (ocserv) server on OPNSense. It was an adventure so here is a guide to getting going.
     
     
    Start Installing Packages:
    To start login to OPNSense and become root then paste in:
    fetch -o /usr/local/etc/pkg/repos/mimugmail.conf https://www.routerperformance.net/mimugmail.conf  
    Now you can go in the GUI and go to System > Firmware > Plugins and find ocserv and install (it may "hang" for a couple minutes, just wait)
    -or-
    From the CLI run: pkg install ocserv
     
     
    Initial Setup:
    Once installed then you can setup OCServ from the GUI. VPN > OCServ > General
    This assumes you're using a certificate, if not you should be fine to leave the first to (Server and Root) set to none and you can leave out the following three lines from the config box:
    WARNING: Even if you define a cert and root you still need to define them in the config!*
    server-cert=/usr/local/etc/ocserv/server-cert.pem server-key = /usr/local/etc/ocserv/server-key.pem ca-cert = /usr/local/etc/ocserv/ca.pem  
    Replace with your ipv6 and ipv4 networks as applicable. If you don't use one (IPv6) then leave that out.
    Update DNS to whatever you want, local DNS or public DNS is fine. Remove any unused lines.
    By default you should generally pass in specific routes unless you want to tunnel everything, then you can just do route = default which should cover everything and not do split tunneling.
    GUI Config:
    auth = "plain[passwd=/etc/ocserv/ocpasswd]" tcp-port = 443 udp-port = 443 isolate-workers = false ipv4-network = [ipv4 network] ipv4-netmask = [255.255.255.0] ipv6-network = [subnet]::/64 ipv6-subnet-prefix = 128 dtls-legacy = true tunnel-all-dns = true dns = [server 1] dns = [server 2] route = [route]/[mask] route = [second route]/[mask] route = [third route...etc]/[mask] default-domain = [localdomain.test] socket-file = /var/run/ocserv-socket server-cert=/usr/local/etc/ocserv/server-cert.pem server-key = /usr/local/etc/ocserv/server-key.pem ca-cert = /usr/local/etc/ocserv/ca.pem device = vpns max-clients = 6 ping-leases = true try-mtu-discovery = true #Applicable only for Cisco Anyconnect# cisco-client-compat = true user-profile = /etc/ocserv/profile.xml If using Cisco Anyconnect clients then create an xml profile as well and add it to the location specified above on the CLI (if you don't configure users before doing this then you will need make the /etc/ocserv/ directory first)
     
    Configure Users:
    From the OPNSense CLI (as root) do the following:
    mkdir /etc/ocserv/
    ocpasswd -c /etc/ocserv/ocpasswd generaluser
    (Repeat the ocpasswd as needed for each user and enter the password)
    # ocpasswd -c /etc/ocserv/ocpasswd user1 Enter password: Re-enter password:  
     
    Setup Firewall
    Once everything is setup and working go ahead and connect from a client at this point just to verify things work outside to the WAN.
    Now in the OPNSense GUI go to Firewall > Aliases and create a new group
    Add your IPv4 and/or IPv6 subnet(s) for the VPN:

    Then click Save.
    Now go to Firewall > Rules > Floating:
    Add a pass rule
    Direction: In
    Source will be your Alias name (ocserv in my case)
    Everything else can be default.
    Save
     
     
    Debugging:
    By default if you miss something or typo something the GUI will not give you any information as to what is missing. You can login to the CLI, become root, and go to /usr/local/etc/rc.d and then ./ocserv start and it will give you error messages as to what is missing.
    *Failure to define the ca-cert will cause anyconnect to hang on Checking for customization updates... and you'll need to bounce the ocserv process to get it to cancel out. OpenConnect clients will connect fine without this.
     
     
    References:
    https://www.routerperformance.net/opnsense-repo/
    https://www.linuxbabe.com/ubuntu/openconnect-vpn-server-ocserv-ubuntu-20-04-lets-encrypt
    https://gist.github.com/wongsyrone/55165ce767f7248656cc#file-ocserv-conf
    https://www.linuxbabe.com/linux-server/ocserv-openconnect-vpn-advanced
     
     
    Edit:
    Updated interfaces config/floating firewall rule documentation
    Fixed IPv6 address assignment and routing rules.
  8. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from Real_PhillBert in Show off your latest purchases   
    Hardware Haul - Part 1
    New build, who dis? 👀
     

    AMD Ryzen 5 5600G Processor
    Nifty lil' thing has an iGPU.
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    It’s so smol. 😆
     

    G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 RAM
     
     

    Hardware Haul - Part 2
     

    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    THIS IS THE BEST SSD.
    IT CAME IN A DANBO PAKIDGE. 
     

    Danbo!
    THIS.
    IS.
    THE BEST.
    SSD.

     

    Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black CPU Cooler
    I checked Noctua’s roadmap and it didn’t say NH-L12 chromax.black anywhere, sooo... Here we are.
    If they actually do come out with an NH-L12 chromax.black, I am... going to commit crimes. 
     

    EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM PSU (B-Stock)
    This box is barely larger than the palm of my hand. 😂
     
     
    All set to start PC building!
    ...Psych, it's already built. 
     
    Fractal Design Ridge pics are in the Build Log. Come check it out? 😁
  9. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from IkeaGnome in Build Log - Okashī   
    Introduction
    Hey there! Welcome to a second PC build log?! 
    'Tis not (primarily) for gaming, though. It’s main purpose is hosting smol home server / homelab experiments.
     
    And by “experiments,” I actually mean, “I don’t know what I’m doing, but hopefully I have enough brain cells to set something up.” 
     
    Planned Projects
    If I call it a project, it sounds fancier. 
    Proxmox VE Pi-Hole NextCloud Ubuntu VM WoW Private Server Windows 11 (Fallback OS) WoW Private Server (Fallback Plan)  
    Docker was on the list, but Proxmox seems to have a built-in PXC Container Toolkit. 
     
    Name
    奇怪しい ⇒ おかしい ⇒ Okashī
    (奇怪しい = Odd / Strange / Unusual)
     
    Methinks it’s a fitting name...
    Seeing as nothing makes any sort of sense to me while I attempt to set up these projects. 
    (Context: I'm a Windows baby. Never touched Linux in my life. 😅)
     
     
    Parts List
     
    Component Selection Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600G $119.99 CPU Cooler Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black $54.95 Motherboard ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax $159.99 Graphics Card - - Memory G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 $162.99 Storage Inland Premium 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD
    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    $0.00
    (Holdover)

    Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM (B-Stock)
    $80.99
    Case Fractal Design Ridge (Black)
    $129.99
    Case Fans 2 × Fractal Design Aspect 14 PWM
    $0.00
    (Included)
    Operating System Proxmox VE
    VM: Ubuntu
    Dual Boot: Windows 11 (Unlicensed) $0.00    
     
      Grand Total
    (Shipping and Taxes Excluded)
    $708.90
    + 🚚 + 
     
    Revision History
     
     
    Assembly

    Fractal Design Ridge
     


    Recommendation Points Dissatisfaction Points Design: Minimalist box with a very narrow profile, which can be set up vertically or horizontally. Removable Panels (5/6 Sides): Front panel is conveniently held in by four small magnets. Larger side panels are secured by thumbscrews, nubs, and rails. Smaller side panels are held in by screws and nubs, and may only be accessed after the larger panels have been removed. Cable Routing Layout: The case has multiple tie down points for velcro strips or cable ties. Several velcro strips and zip ties are included in the package. Pictorially-Detailed Manual: The manual details every step of case disassembly and hardware mounting very simply and very explicitly. Build Quality: Paint chips and scuffs easily from rough handling and from screws. Riveted Frame: While 5/6 of the side panels may be removed for physical access, the frame is riveted together and can obstruct cable management. (Compare against the Define 7 series and its removable top frame for mounting fans.) Cable Lengths: Cable lengths for the front I/O wires and the internal PSU extension cable are slightly too long (by ≈5 cm, IMO). Too long is better than too short, but it’s aggravating to keep tidy. Ambiguity in the Manual: For hardware mounting steps, screws are only shown pictorially and do not have their model numbers listed.  
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    So smol. 
     

    Okashī - Interior
    Have I mentioned.
    I really really really like matte black.
     
    Also, this took an ungodly amount of time (90% cable management) and finger pain. 😂
    Please ignore the cable mess, it’s as good as I can get it with EVGA’s stock cables. 😩
     

    Okashī - Interior
    I like this side. This side is so clean? 😆
     

    Fractal Design Ridge - Front Panel
    Magnets on the front panel! 
    Left a lasting first impression on me, I think this is one of my favorite features of this case, lol.
     

    Okashī - All Assembled!
    This is the point where I realized I forgot to flick the switch on the PSU. 
     

    'Chew’s Desk
    🥰
    Off-Screen: 4 hours of rearranging desk cables. (ノ°Д°)ノ︵ ┻━┻ Still, WORTH IT.
     
    Maaan...
    To think that my desk started out looking like this.
    ...I need more surface area for my plushies, GDI. 
     

    Current Desk Setup
    I love this space. 
     
     
    Closing Comments
    The physical build’s not quiiite yet done -- still got those Noctua chromax.black case fans on my wishlist, and I haven’t put in the RX 5600 XT card in there. But the system’s been operational for a while now! Stable Proxmox OS, and stable Windows 11 OS. 😁
     
    PC building is still really fun for me!
    That is, when I don’t have to think about how much it costs, and when I don’t have to fight cable snakes, and when I don’t have to carefully partition my time outside of work because of course we have a sale and of course I have to work on all the weekends.
     
    Figuring out Linux is more headbashing and quiet documentation reading than fun, but I’m finding it pretty interesting and it’s a new learning experience. 
     
    I have a newfound appreciation for all these incredibly straightforward Windows installs. 😂
     
    Also, suuuuuuuuuuper special thanks to Den! 
    For the parts advice, the Proxmox suggestion, the NVMe SSD, THE DANBO!!!, and for being very, very sexy, all the time. 
  10. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from sub68 in Build Log - Okashī   
    Introduction
    Hey there! Welcome to a second PC build log?! 
    'Tis not (primarily) for gaming, though. It’s main purpose is hosting smol home server / homelab experiments.
     
    And by “experiments,” I actually mean, “I don’t know what I’m doing, but hopefully I have enough brain cells to set something up.” 
     
    Planned Projects
    If I call it a project, it sounds fancier. 
    Proxmox VE Pi-Hole NextCloud Ubuntu VM WoW Private Server Windows 11 (Fallback OS) WoW Private Server (Fallback Plan)  
    Docker was on the list, but Proxmox seems to have a built-in PXC Container Toolkit. 
     
    Name
    奇怪しい ⇒ おかしい ⇒ Okashī
    (奇怪しい = Odd / Strange / Unusual)
     
    Methinks it’s a fitting name...
    Seeing as nothing makes any sort of sense to me while I attempt to set up these projects. 
    (Context: I'm a Windows baby. Never touched Linux in my life. 😅)
     
     
    Parts List
     
    Component Selection Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600G $119.99 CPU Cooler Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black $54.95 Motherboard ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax $159.99 Graphics Card - - Memory G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 $162.99 Storage Inland Premium 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD
    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    $0.00
    (Holdover)

    Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM (B-Stock)
    $80.99
    Case Fractal Design Ridge (Black)
    $129.99
    Case Fans 2 × Fractal Design Aspect 14 PWM
    $0.00
    (Included)
    Operating System Proxmox VE
    VM: Ubuntu
    Dual Boot: Windows 11 (Unlicensed) $0.00    
     
      Grand Total
    (Shipping and Taxes Excluded)
    $708.90
    + 🚚 + 
     
    Revision History
     
     
    Assembly

    Fractal Design Ridge
     


    Recommendation Points Dissatisfaction Points Design: Minimalist box with a very narrow profile, which can be set up vertically or horizontally. Removable Panels (5/6 Sides): Front panel is conveniently held in by four small magnets. Larger side panels are secured by thumbscrews, nubs, and rails. Smaller side panels are held in by screws and nubs, and may only be accessed after the larger panels have been removed. Cable Routing Layout: The case has multiple tie down points for velcro strips or cable ties. Several velcro strips and zip ties are included in the package. Pictorially-Detailed Manual: The manual details every step of case disassembly and hardware mounting very simply and very explicitly. Build Quality: Paint chips and scuffs easily from rough handling and from screws. Riveted Frame: While 5/6 of the side panels may be removed for physical access, the frame is riveted together and can obstruct cable management. (Compare against the Define 7 series and its removable top frame for mounting fans.) Cable Lengths: Cable lengths for the front I/O wires and the internal PSU extension cable are slightly too long (by ≈5 cm, IMO). Too long is better than too short, but it’s aggravating to keep tidy. Ambiguity in the Manual: For hardware mounting steps, screws are only shown pictorially and do not have their model numbers listed.  
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    So smol. 
     

    Okashī - Interior
    Have I mentioned.
    I really really really like matte black.
     
    Also, this took an ungodly amount of time (90% cable management) and finger pain. 😂
    Please ignore the cable mess, it’s as good as I can get it with EVGA’s stock cables. 😩
     

    Okashī - Interior
    I like this side. This side is so clean? 😆
     

    Fractal Design Ridge - Front Panel
    Magnets on the front panel! 
    Left a lasting first impression on me, I think this is one of my favorite features of this case, lol.
     

    Okashī - All Assembled!
    This is the point where I realized I forgot to flick the switch on the PSU. 
     

    'Chew’s Desk
    🥰
    Off-Screen: 4 hours of rearranging desk cables. (ノ°Д°)ノ︵ ┻━┻ Still, WORTH IT.
     
    Maaan...
    To think that my desk started out looking like this.
    ...I need more surface area for my plushies, GDI. 
     

    Current Desk Setup
    I love this space. 
     
     
    Closing Comments
    The physical build’s not quiiite yet done -- still got those Noctua chromax.black case fans on my wishlist, and I haven’t put in the RX 5600 XT card in there. But the system’s been operational for a while now! Stable Proxmox OS, and stable Windows 11 OS. 😁
     
    PC building is still really fun for me!
    That is, when I don’t have to think about how much it costs, and when I don’t have to fight cable snakes, and when I don’t have to carefully partition my time outside of work because of course we have a sale and of course I have to work on all the weekends.
     
    Figuring out Linux is more headbashing and quiet documentation reading than fun, but I’m finding it pretty interesting and it’s a new learning experience. 
     
    I have a newfound appreciation for all these incredibly straightforward Windows installs. 😂
     
    Also, suuuuuuuuuuper special thanks to Den! 
    For the parts advice, the Proxmox suggestion, the NVMe SSD, THE DANBO!!!, and for being very, very sexy, all the time. 
  11. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from sub68 in Show off your latest purchases   
    Hardware Haul - Part 1
    New build, who dis? 👀
     

    AMD Ryzen 5 5600G Processor
    Nifty lil' thing has an iGPU.
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    It’s so smol. 😆
     

    G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 RAM
     
     

    Hardware Haul - Part 2
     

    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    THIS IS THE BEST SSD.
    IT CAME IN A DANBO PAKIDGE. 
     

    Danbo!
    THIS.
    IS.
    THE BEST.
    SSD.

     

    Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black CPU Cooler
    I checked Noctua’s roadmap and it didn’t say NH-L12 chromax.black anywhere, sooo... Here we are.
    If they actually do come out with an NH-L12 chromax.black, I am... going to commit crimes. 
     

    EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM PSU (B-Stock)
    This box is barely larger than the palm of my hand. 😂
     
     
    All set to start PC building!
    ...Psych, it's already built. 
     
    Fractal Design Ridge pics are in the Build Log. Come check it out? 😁
  12. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from DJ46 in Build Log - Okashī   
    Introduction
    Hey there! Welcome to a second PC build log?! 
    'Tis not (primarily) for gaming, though. It’s main purpose is hosting smol home server / homelab experiments.
     
    And by “experiments,” I actually mean, “I don’t know what I’m doing, but hopefully I have enough brain cells to set something up.” 
     
    Planned Projects
    If I call it a project, it sounds fancier. 
    Proxmox VE Pi-Hole NextCloud Ubuntu VM WoW Private Server Windows 11 (Fallback OS) WoW Private Server (Fallback Plan)  
    Docker was on the list, but Proxmox seems to have a built-in PXC Container Toolkit. 
     
    Name
    奇怪しい ⇒ おかしい ⇒ Okashī
    (奇怪しい = Odd / Strange / Unusual)
     
    Methinks it’s a fitting name...
    Seeing as nothing makes any sort of sense to me while I attempt to set up these projects. 
    (Context: I'm a Windows baby. Never touched Linux in my life. 😅)
     
     
    Parts List
     
    Component Selection Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600G $119.99 CPU Cooler Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black $54.95 Motherboard ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax $159.99 Graphics Card - - Memory G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 $162.99 Storage Inland Premium 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD
    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    $0.00
    (Holdover)

    Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM (B-Stock)
    $80.99
    Case Fractal Design Ridge (Black)
    $129.99
    Case Fans 2 × Fractal Design Aspect 14 PWM
    $0.00
    (Included)
    Operating System Proxmox VE
    VM: Ubuntu
    Dual Boot: Windows 11 (Unlicensed) $0.00    
     
      Grand Total
    (Shipping and Taxes Excluded)
    $708.90
    + 🚚 + 
     
    Revision History
     
     
    Assembly

    Fractal Design Ridge
     


    Recommendation Points Dissatisfaction Points Design: Minimalist box with a very narrow profile, which can be set up vertically or horizontally. Removable Panels (5/6 Sides): Front panel is conveniently held in by four small magnets. Larger side panels are secured by thumbscrews, nubs, and rails. Smaller side panels are held in by screws and nubs, and may only be accessed after the larger panels have been removed. Cable Routing Layout: The case has multiple tie down points for velcro strips or cable ties. Several velcro strips and zip ties are included in the package. Pictorially-Detailed Manual: The manual details every step of case disassembly and hardware mounting very simply and very explicitly. Build Quality: Paint chips and scuffs easily from rough handling and from screws. Riveted Frame: While 5/6 of the side panels may be removed for physical access, the frame is riveted together and can obstruct cable management. (Compare against the Define 7 series and its removable top frame for mounting fans.) Cable Lengths: Cable lengths for the front I/O wires and the internal PSU extension cable are slightly too long (by ≈5 cm, IMO). Too long is better than too short, but it’s aggravating to keep tidy. Ambiguity in the Manual: For hardware mounting steps, screws are only shown pictorially and do not have their model numbers listed.  
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    So smol. 
     

    Okashī - Interior
    Have I mentioned.
    I really really really like matte black.
     
    Also, this took an ungodly amount of time (90% cable management) and finger pain. 😂
    Please ignore the cable mess, it’s as good as I can get it with EVGA’s stock cables. 😩
     

    Okashī - Interior
    I like this side. This side is so clean? 😆
     

    Fractal Design Ridge - Front Panel
    Magnets on the front panel! 
    Left a lasting first impression on me, I think this is one of my favorite features of this case, lol.
     

    Okashī - All Assembled!
    This is the point where I realized I forgot to flick the switch on the PSU. 
     

    'Chew’s Desk
    🥰
    Off-Screen: 4 hours of rearranging desk cables. (ノ°Д°)ノ︵ ┻━┻ Still, WORTH IT.
     
    Maaan...
    To think that my desk started out looking like this.
    ...I need more surface area for my plushies, GDI. 
     

    Current Desk Setup
    I love this space. 
     
     
    Closing Comments
    The physical build’s not quiiite yet done -- still got those Noctua chromax.black case fans on my wishlist, and I haven’t put in the RX 5600 XT card in there. But the system’s been operational for a while now! Stable Proxmox OS, and stable Windows 11 OS. 😁
     
    PC building is still really fun for me!
    That is, when I don’t have to think about how much it costs, and when I don’t have to fight cable snakes, and when I don’t have to carefully partition my time outside of work because of course we have a sale and of course I have to work on all the weekends.
     
    Figuring out Linux is more headbashing and quiet documentation reading than fun, but I’m finding it pretty interesting and it’s a new learning experience. 
     
    I have a newfound appreciation for all these incredibly straightforward Windows installs. 😂
     
    Also, suuuuuuuuuuper special thanks to Den! 
    For the parts advice, the Proxmox suggestion, the NVMe SSD, THE DANBO!!!, and for being very, very sexy, all the time. 
  13. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from SimplyChunk in Show off your latest purchases   
    Hardware Haul - Part 1
    New build, who dis? 👀
     

    AMD Ryzen 5 5600G Processor
    Nifty lil' thing has an iGPU.
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    It’s so smol. 😆
     

    G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 RAM
     
     

    Hardware Haul - Part 2
     

    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    THIS IS THE BEST SSD.
    IT CAME IN A DANBO PAKIDGE. 
     

    Danbo!
    THIS.
    IS.
    THE BEST.
    SSD.

     

    Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black CPU Cooler
    I checked Noctua’s roadmap and it didn’t say NH-L12 chromax.black anywhere, sooo... Here we are.
    If they actually do come out with an NH-L12 chromax.black, I am... going to commit crimes. 
     

    EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM PSU (B-Stock)
    This box is barely larger than the palm of my hand. 😂
     
     
    All set to start PC building!
    ...Psych, it's already built. 
     
    Fractal Design Ridge pics are in the Build Log. Come check it out? 😁
  14. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from venomtail in Build Log - Okashī   
    Introduction
    Hey there! Welcome to a second PC build log?! 
    'Tis not (primarily) for gaming, though. It’s main purpose is hosting smol home server / homelab experiments.
     
    And by “experiments,” I actually mean, “I don’t know what I’m doing, but hopefully I have enough brain cells to set something up.” 
     
    Planned Projects
    If I call it a project, it sounds fancier. 
    Proxmox VE Pi-Hole NextCloud Ubuntu VM WoW Private Server Windows 11 (Fallback OS) WoW Private Server (Fallback Plan)  
    Docker was on the list, but Proxmox seems to have a built-in PXC Container Toolkit. 
     
    Name
    奇怪しい ⇒ おかしい ⇒ Okashī
    (奇怪しい = Odd / Strange / Unusual)
     
    Methinks it’s a fitting name...
    Seeing as nothing makes any sort of sense to me while I attempt to set up these projects. 
    (Context: I'm a Windows baby. Never touched Linux in my life. 😅)
     
     
    Parts List
     
    Component Selection Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600G $119.99 CPU Cooler Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black $54.95 Motherboard ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax $159.99 Graphics Card - - Memory G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 $162.99 Storage Inland Premium 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD
    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    $0.00
    (Holdover)

    Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM (B-Stock)
    $80.99
    Case Fractal Design Ridge (Black)
    $129.99
    Case Fans 2 × Fractal Design Aspect 14 PWM
    $0.00
    (Included)
    Operating System Proxmox VE
    VM: Ubuntu
    Dual Boot: Windows 11 (Unlicensed) $0.00    
     
      Grand Total
    (Shipping and Taxes Excluded)
    $708.90
    + 🚚 + 
     
    Revision History
     
     
    Assembly

    Fractal Design Ridge
     


    Recommendation Points Dissatisfaction Points Design: Minimalist box with a very narrow profile, which can be set up vertically or horizontally. Removable Panels (5/6 Sides): Front panel is conveniently held in by four small magnets. Larger side panels are secured by thumbscrews, nubs, and rails. Smaller side panels are held in by screws and nubs, and may only be accessed after the larger panels have been removed. Cable Routing Layout: The case has multiple tie down points for velcro strips or cable ties. Several velcro strips and zip ties are included in the package. Pictorially-Detailed Manual: The manual details every step of case disassembly and hardware mounting very simply and very explicitly. Build Quality: Paint chips and scuffs easily from rough handling and from screws. Riveted Frame: While 5/6 of the side panels may be removed for physical access, the frame is riveted together and can obstruct cable management. (Compare against the Define 7 series and its removable top frame for mounting fans.) Cable Lengths: Cable lengths for the front I/O wires and the internal PSU extension cable are slightly too long (by ≈5 cm, IMO). Too long is better than too short, but it’s aggravating to keep tidy. Ambiguity in the Manual: For hardware mounting steps, screws are only shown pictorially and do not have their model numbers listed.  
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    So smol. 
     

    Okashī - Interior
    Have I mentioned.
    I really really really like matte black.
     
    Also, this took an ungodly amount of time (90% cable management) and finger pain. 😂
    Please ignore the cable mess, it’s as good as I can get it with EVGA’s stock cables. 😩
     

    Okashī - Interior
    I like this side. This side is so clean? 😆
     

    Fractal Design Ridge - Front Panel
    Magnets on the front panel! 
    Left a lasting first impression on me, I think this is one of my favorite features of this case, lol.
     

    Okashī - All Assembled!
    This is the point where I realized I forgot to flick the switch on the PSU. 
     

    'Chew’s Desk
    🥰
    Off-Screen: 4 hours of rearranging desk cables. (ノ°Д°)ノ︵ ┻━┻ Still, WORTH IT.
     
    Maaan...
    To think that my desk started out looking like this.
    ...I need more surface area for my plushies, GDI. 
     

    Current Desk Setup
    I love this space. 
     
     
    Closing Comments
    The physical build’s not quiiite yet done -- still got those Noctua chromax.black case fans on my wishlist, and I haven’t put in the RX 5600 XT card in there. But the system’s been operational for a while now! Stable Proxmox OS, and stable Windows 11 OS. 😁
     
    PC building is still really fun for me!
    That is, when I don’t have to think about how much it costs, and when I don’t have to fight cable snakes, and when I don’t have to carefully partition my time outside of work because of course we have a sale and of course I have to work on all the weekends.
     
    Figuring out Linux is more headbashing and quiet documentation reading than fun, but I’m finding it pretty interesting and it’s a new learning experience. 
     
    I have a newfound appreciation for all these incredibly straightforward Windows installs. 😂
     
    Also, suuuuuuuuuuper special thanks to Den! 
    For the parts advice, the Proxmox suggestion, the NVMe SSD, THE DANBO!!!, and for being very, very sexy, all the time. 
  15. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from seon123 in Build Log - Okashī   
    Introduction
    Hey there! Welcome to a second PC build log?! 
    'Tis not (primarily) for gaming, though. It’s main purpose is hosting smol home server / homelab experiments.
     
    And by “experiments,” I actually mean, “I don’t know what I’m doing, but hopefully I have enough brain cells to set something up.” 
     
    Planned Projects
    If I call it a project, it sounds fancier. 
    Proxmox VE Pi-Hole NextCloud Ubuntu VM WoW Private Server Windows 11 (Fallback OS) WoW Private Server (Fallback Plan)  
    Docker was on the list, but Proxmox seems to have a built-in PXC Container Toolkit. 
     
    Name
    奇怪しい ⇒ おかしい ⇒ Okashī
    (奇怪しい = Odd / Strange / Unusual)
     
    Methinks it’s a fitting name...
    Seeing as nothing makes any sort of sense to me while I attempt to set up these projects. 
    (Context: I'm a Windows baby. Never touched Linux in my life. 😅)
     
     
    Parts List
     
    Component Selection Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600G $119.99 CPU Cooler Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black $54.95 Motherboard ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax $159.99 Graphics Card - - Memory G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 $162.99 Storage Inland Premium 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD
    Western Digital PC SN520 NVMe SSD
    $0.00
    (Holdover)

    Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM (B-Stock)
    $80.99
    Case Fractal Design Ridge (Black)
    $129.99
    Case Fans 2 × Fractal Design Aspect 14 PWM
    $0.00
    (Included)
    Operating System Proxmox VE
    VM: Ubuntu
    Dual Boot: Windows 11 (Unlicensed) $0.00    
     
      Grand Total
    (Shipping and Taxes Excluded)
    $708.90
    + 🚚 + 
     
    Revision History
     
     
    Assembly

    Fractal Design Ridge
     


    Recommendation Points Dissatisfaction Points Design: Minimalist box with a very narrow profile, which can be set up vertically or horizontally. Removable Panels (5/6 Sides): Front panel is conveniently held in by four small magnets. Larger side panels are secured by thumbscrews, nubs, and rails. Smaller side panels are held in by screws and nubs, and may only be accessed after the larger panels have been removed. Cable Routing Layout: The case has multiple tie down points for velcro strips or cable ties. Several velcro strips and zip ties are included in the package. Pictorially-Detailed Manual: The manual details every step of case disassembly and hardware mounting very simply and very explicitly. Build Quality: Paint chips and scuffs easily from rough handling and from screws. Riveted Frame: While 5/6 of the side panels may be removed for physical access, the frame is riveted together and can obstruct cable management. (Compare against the Define 7 series and its removable top frame for mounting fans.) Cable Lengths: Cable lengths for the front I/O wires and the internal PSU extension cable are slightly too long (by ≈5 cm, IMO). Too long is better than too short, but it’s aggravating to keep tidy. Ambiguity in the Manual: For hardware mounting steps, screws are only shown pictorially and do not have their model numbers listed.  
     

    ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Motherboard
    So smol. 
     

    Okashī - Interior
    Have I mentioned.
    I really really really like matte black.
     
    Also, this took an ungodly amount of time (90% cable management) and finger pain. 😂
    Please ignore the cable mess, it’s as good as I can get it with EVGA’s stock cables. 😩
     

    Okashī - Interior
    I like this side. This side is so clean? 😆
     

    Fractal Design Ridge - Front Panel
    Magnets on the front panel! 
    Left a lasting first impression on me, I think this is one of my favorite features of this case, lol.
     

    Okashī - All Assembled!
    This is the point where I realized I forgot to flick the switch on the PSU. 
     

    'Chew’s Desk
    🥰
    Off-Screen: 4 hours of rearranging desk cables. (ノ°Д°)ノ︵ ┻━┻ Still, WORTH IT.
     
    Maaan...
    To think that my desk started out looking like this.
    ...I need more surface area for my plushies, GDI. 
     

    Current Desk Setup
    I love this space. 
     
     
    Closing Comments
    The physical build’s not quiiite yet done -- still got those Noctua chromax.black case fans on my wishlist, and I haven’t put in the RX 5600 XT card in there. But the system’s been operational for a while now! Stable Proxmox OS, and stable Windows 11 OS. 😁
     
    PC building is still really fun for me!
    That is, when I don’t have to think about how much it costs, and when I don’t have to fight cable snakes, and when I don’t have to carefully partition my time outside of work because of course we have a sale and of course I have to work on all the weekends.
     
    Figuring out Linux is more headbashing and quiet documentation reading than fun, but I’m finding it pretty interesting and it’s a new learning experience. 
     
    I have a newfound appreciation for all these incredibly straightforward Windows installs. 😂
     
    Also, suuuuuuuuuuper special thanks to Den! 
    For the parts advice, the Proxmox suggestion, the NVMe SSD, THE DANBO!!!, and for being very, very sexy, all the time. 
  16. Like
    Eschew reacted to TVwazhere in Show off your latest purchases   
    Samsung is giving me nearly $300 USD for my 4 year old S10+.... And I can finance for 0% / 24mo...

  17. Informative
    Eschew reacted to Lurick in FOR THE CHILDREN!!! Utah Gov. signs laws requiring age verification on Social Media   
    Requiring parental consent for using social media violates minors’ First Amendment
    rights. The Supreme Court has recognized that government regulation of access to social
    media implicates the First Amendment: “to foreclose access to social media is to prevent the
    user from engaging in the legitimate exercise of First Amendment rights.” 2 Yet that is
    precisely what these bills do: any Utahn under the age of 18 would be precluded by default
    from participating on a social media platform.
     
    Minors possess significant First Amendment rights, “and only in relatively narrow and well-
    defined circumstances may the government bar public dissemination of protected materials
    to them.”3 These narrow circumstances concern primarily specific material deemed obscene
    as to minors.4 No court has ever ratified the notion that minors may be excluded from an
    entire forum for expression regardless of its content. Indeed, there is nothing “narrow” at all
    about prohibiting minors from using social media wholesale.
     
    https://techfreedom.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/TechFreedom-Letter-to-Gov.-Spencer-Cox-2.16.23.pdf
  18. Like
    Eschew reacted to Lurick in Recommend a good 1 thousand dollar laptop that I can buy in BULK!!!!!! around 40-50   
    Contact a local retailer for bulk purchases as they might be able to offer discounts.
  19. Like
    Eschew reacted to Zando_ in LTT.COM IS A COLD HARD SCAM   
    I understand this is a vent that will probably get deleted, but I'm bored. 
    I see you've never bought quality tools before. They aren't cheap. Especially if made in lower volumes like LTTs are. 
    Places like amazon can offer 1-day shipping due to having thousands of absolutely massive warehouses across the country with the most commonly bought products stocked there. LTT does not have that kind of infrastructure in place, they are likely working with FedEx/UPS/etc, at work we have contracts with FedEx to ship stuff out via them. They typically pick up at the end of the day for us, LTT takes their product in to be shipped last I heard, so 1-day shipping likely isn't a practical ask for how their setup is. 
     
    Basically, make at least some attempt to understand how things work before assuming malice. 
  20. Like
    Eschew reacted to Lurick in Blizzard games go dark in China as millions of Chinese lose access to ‘World of Warcraft’ and other hit games   
    Tell me you hate a game and you're butthurt people still enjoy it without saying you are 😄
  21. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from DJ46 in Build Log - Hoshī   
    Hoshī Update - Forced Upgrades
    So, 'Chew actually hasn’t touched her desktop PC in over a month, being preoccupied with RimWorld and cozy laptop-in-bed times.
     
    PC silently borked on 1/16. The PC sat downstairs with it’s monitors dark, it’s fans were audible, and it’s RGB was still rainbow’ing. The only way I knew about it was thanks to XOC’s F@H charts:
     

    EXTREME Overclocking Folding@home Stats - Eschew
    The huge dip on 1/16 is when my main pointsgetter (Hoshī) borked.
    The tiny blips that continue after 1/16 is 'cos I installed F@H on my work’s office PC, lol.
     
    It’s shown similar symptoms before, and usually I interpret it as my PC needing to update it’s AMD drivers. Though, this time, I got constant BSODs immediately after startup, even when I tried booting into Safe Mode. Stop Code: CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED wasn’t very informative, so I brute forced it until I got a successful DDU through, and just as I started installing AMD Software: Adrenalin Edition, the install process tells me it failed.
     
    After that, more BSODs. And restarts. And BSODs again.
     
    Next step for me was to nuke the OS and reinstall Windows 10... Except I couldn’t even get past the install process. Either the PC BSOD’d again, or Windows 10 simply refused to install to the wiped drive.
     

    Windows 10 Setup - Error Message
    I think I had a different Error Code, but the general message was identical.
     
    At this point, I’d concluded the issue was the physical drive itself. “I’m through with Inland Premium’s NVMe drives,” I said, “2/2 drives failed on me.” But before I could place an order for another NVMe SSD, Den sent one of his over -- Priority Shipping, too. 😭
     

    WD_BLACK SN770 NVMe SSD Installed
    It's under the black heatsink near the top of the pic.
     
    Turns out, the issue still persisted, even with the new SSD.
    God, FML. 
     
    Okay, so the SSD isn’t the issue.
    Not any of my other drives either, 'cos I’d disconnected all of those.
    Not the graphics card either, or else I’d be seeing weird graphical stuff.
    And probably not the PSU, these don’t seem to be voltage-related issues I’m running into.
     
    Earlier in the day, Den suggested I run MemTest86 to see if RAM was the issue. I tried it, and...
    Attempt 1 (Both RAM Sticks): Test froze at Pass 33%, Test 50%. Attempt 2 (Both RAM Sticks, XMP Disabled): Test froze at Pass 33%, Test 50%. Attempt 3 (One RAM Stick): Test froze at Pass 33%, Test 50%. Attempt 4 (Other RAM Stick): Test FAIL. Test aborted due to too many errors. Did a quick search regarding MemTest86 – specifically what it means if the test froze (MemTest86: Freezing and Lockups), and whether a FAIL definitively meant faulty RAM (MemTest86: Troubleshooting Memory Errors).
    Well, great.
    Though, the pattern of errors above led me to believe that at least one – but most probably both – of my RAM sticks were faulty. In the event I was off the mark again, I was going to replace the motherboard and CPU and commit crimes.
     
    “If it came to that,” I thought to myself in the shower, “I’d have replaced every part of my original PC build.”
     
     
    Saturday: Tustin
    Actually my Saturday morning was awesome. Hike was pleasantly exhausting, Micro Center people were friendly and no-nonsense, gyros people were great, and the gyros and souvlaki were hella bomb. 
     
    Could things finally be looking up?! After an entire week of nausea and low morale induced by PC troubleshooting?
     

    MemTest86 - PASS (One RAM Stick)
    Yes.
     
    Alright, but we’re not out of the woods just yet. Let’s do it with both sticks--
     

    MemTest86 - PASS (Both RAM Sticks)
    Double yes.
     
     
    Sunday: Reinstall... Everything
    This is the boring part where I spend hours waiting for the progress bars on installations and game verifications to run across the screen.
     
    Here’s some success pics, instead.
     

    Hoshī - Interior
    My pride, my heart, my child. 
    Had to relocate the NH-D15’s fans 'cos of clearance issues. If I put the fan over the RAM, the side panel won’t close up.
    ...I took an admittedly hilariously long time to re-figure out how those metal wires / fan hooks work. 😂
     

    RGB
    Stupid shiny RAM. 
    The RGB isn’t sync’d, and one of the few instances I really do not care to change it due to an intense aversion towards RGB mal-bloatware.
    OpenRGB doesn’t seem to detect / support the SAPPHIRE 6950 XTs.
     

    HWiNFO64 System Summary
    Let’s see... 32GB (2 x 16GB), DDR4-3600, CL16-19-19-39, 1.35V, check. 👍
     

    CrystalDiskInfo - WD_BLACK SN770 NVMe SSD
    Healthy 100% SSD. 🙏
    Thank you again, Den! 😭
     

    EXTREME Overclocking Folding@home Stats - Eschew
    WE ARE.
    Back in business, babyyy! 
     
    Also I guess I owe AMD, Lisa Su, and Inland Premium / Micro Center an apology, lol. Not that they care?
    In my technical inexperience and hot-bloodedness, I was unfairly blaming them and their products for this catastrophe.
     
    No, I should really be saying FucThank You to Newegg and TEAMGROUP.
    Thank you for selling me faulty RAM listed as new, Newegg!
    And if Newegg actually received faulty RAM to sell as new, thank you for manufacturing it TEAMGROUP!
    Really, capital F and capital U, Newegg and TEAMGROUP.
     
    I’m just happy that Hoshī’s back up and running, now. 🤞
    Good freaking Lord, what a week. 
  22. Like
    Eschew reacted to sub68 in Build Log - Hoshī   
    Makes sense, 2020 was a horrible QC year COVID.
    Manufactures were trying to push out product at a fast pace while with oncoming COVID lockdowns and So alot of QC was expedited.
    At my school we have/had tons of year 2020 chromebooks with bad wifi cards due to this problem, and its a pain because all of them had to be RMA, we couldnt replace them only the RMA could.
  23. Like
    Eschew reacted to SimplyChunk in Show off your latest purchases   
    They look so much better than royals
  24. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from SimplyChunk in Show off your latest purchases   
    G.Skill Trident Z Neo RAM (F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC)
    32GB (2 x 16GB), DDR4-3600, CL16-19-19-39, 1.35V
     

    G.Skill Trident Z Neo RAM
    Well, these used to be very low on the priority list, but PC shenanigans happened.
    My old RAM kit (TLZGD432G3200HC16FDC01) borked the PC. God damn instigator of Hoshī’s doom. 🙄
    Thank you, Newegg! Thank you TEAMGROUP! Very cool! 
    GDI.
     
    The PC is up and running again, thank fuck.
    Story here, for those that are curious.
  25. Like
    Eschew got a reaction from BiG StroOnZ in Show off your latest purchases   
    G.Skill Trident Z Neo RAM (F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC)
    32GB (2 x 16GB), DDR4-3600, CL16-19-19-39, 1.35V
     

    G.Skill Trident Z Neo RAM
    Well, these used to be very low on the priority list, but PC shenanigans happened.
    My old RAM kit (TLZGD432G3200HC16FDC01) borked the PC. God damn instigator of Hoshī’s doom. 🙄
    Thank you, Newegg! Thank you TEAMGROUP! Very cool! 
    GDI.
     
    The PC is up and running again, thank fuck.
    Story here, for those that are curious.
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