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spectr3x

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About spectr3x

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    Newbie
  1. Well, as long as nothing bad is going am I right XD It's pretty normal for such an aggressive overclock, I think. I only have a 6th Gen i7, that's locked, so I don't know much about overclocking a CPU. In theory, if you don't want the spike, then turn down the OC. It's pretty normal since the CPU has to load in the world and the map, and it needs to use resources. Hope this helps! Spectr3x
  2. If you are looking at used, then by all means, they should be a great upgrade. Keep in mind the Polaris architecture is almost 4 years old and they can run a bit toasty at times. Also if you are looking for the NVENC encoder and want to stream, then they won't be your best option. But, in theory, they are a good deal. Another card for around the same price used is the GTX 1060 6GB. Pretty much the same performance, trading blows, plus NVENC. If you are considering the RX 580, look for the 8GB version. And if you consider the GTX 1060, the 6GB edition. Hope this helps! P.S. If you don't want anything used and want RX 580 performance, get the 1650 SUPER.
  3. I am, by no means, a CPU-throttling-and-how-to-fix-it person, but I guess, take the Master Chief guy out? LOL For real though, I think you should be fine. As long as you're not losing any bad performance, you should be good to go. Your case seems to have good airflow, I think you're fine. Maybe turn down the overclock a bit, who knows?
  4. The games you've asked for is going to struggle a lot on the Witcher 3 and Cyberpunk, but Doom should be fine. What is your budget? I need your budget so I can put together a machine for you. Mainly, as of right now, I feel like you should at least upgrade your GPU, maybe to a GTX 770, which can be found for $50 on eBay, and are pretty much comparable to a much slower GTX 1650. Should be able to run the games, but if you want more performance than that, then I recommend the GTX 1650 SUPER. The GTX 770 if for the ultimate budget upgrade. Regards, Spectr3x P.S: Hope this helps!
  5. Hello LTT Forum, Ever since some time in the last few months, I have experienced an error in Windows 10. This is not the one where it doesn't show anything at startup when it asks me to sign-in, if some of the people might be thinking. It's about the Settings app in Windows 10. My Situation: Basically, I want to change my PIN and my sign-in settings, in Windows 10. Since they removed all of that from Control Panel, I am not able to change it there. My Problem: Whenever I want to change a sign-in setting, I would have to click the "Sign-in options" tab found in Windows Settings>Accounts>Sign-in options. However, as soon as I click that tab, Windows Settings would freeze, and nothing would happen. The only thing I can do is close out of Settings. Taking a quick look at Task Manager shows me that whenever I click on the tab, it would immediately suspend Settings, and all CPU and memory usage of the app will be suspended in action, hence why my screen looks like it stopped midway.I don't know what the problem is, and I've scoured other forums, which said to change some Services to manual, that didn't help at all either. Does anyone, by any chance, have a solution to this problem, without having to reset my computer? I do not want to lose my data, and I know you can back it up, but it would just be a pain in the ass. Thanks, Spectr3x
  6. So is your Windows on one of your SSDs? If not, then you will suffer a lot of performance on boot up and on launch. Then, I would recommend using some drive software to migrate your Windows to the SSDs. If not, and they are already on the SSDs, great! You'll suffer no performance loss, and you will have a new desktop computer to use! Yes, it will work, so just give it a shot.
  7. But other than that it would work. Just remember that 2.5in drives are slower than 3.5in ones, so his boot times could be slower if he is running on a hard drive, not an SSD.
  8. I mean, I haven't tried that before, but theoretically, it could work. Windows, is just Windows, and no matter what, it will probably detect your hardware as feasible and will work, theoretically. The only thing I'm worried about for your build is your laptop's 2.5in drive. They are usually slower speed than their desktop counterparts, and you should really consider getting an SSD for your boot drive. I think their are some software that you can use to copy Windows from one drive to another though, look it up and it's actually pretty easy.
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