goofygc316

And the aftermath of the tube installation.
 

And the aftermath of the tube installation.
 

And the aftermath of the tube installation.
 

And the aftermath of the tube installation.
 

And the aftermath of the tube installation.
 

Preparing all the tubes with the fittings before diving in.
 
Understand that tube bending would have saved a lot of time and eliminated all the fail points at the 90 degree joints. But I get scared shitless when it comes to bending and moreover the tubes are acrylic.
 
Heads-up to anyone buying singularity 16MM acrylic tubes and Bitspower 16MM fittings. Had to struggle while shoving the tube into the fittings. Had to use a lot *soap water* . Assume that the tubes’ OD is exactly 16mm.
 
Shout out to Paul's Hardware. His video suggested getting the mini saw(buy here) for acrylic tube cutting. 
 
Also would suggest getting the primo chill RFB deburrer. They saved a lot of time with the tube reaming although there were a lot of leftover flakes.
Had to soak them in distilled water as there were leftover acrylic flakes after chamfing.
 

As I didn't have access to CAD, I made an initial mock-up of the custom loop using Styrofoam.
 
Re-posting my own earlier post here 
 
This wonky makeshift loop gives an okay picture of the bends and lengths of the pipes.
 
The loop order is as follows: outlet of the reservoir built into the manifold at the back -> into the graphic block -> radiator mounted on the top panel -> tube above the motherboard -> into the CPU block -> radiator mounted on to the front panel(not in the picture) -> inlet of the reservoir at the top. 
 
I wanted to keep the reservoir between the GPU and the CPU block even though I knew that the loop order doesn't make much difference in the overall temperature. The loop order with GPU ->  CPU -> top radiator and then the rest would've been an easier one. But the case would have looked empty with fewer pipes.
 

 
 
 

Very clever physical mocking up, like Cardboard Aided Design turned up to 11.
 
Big fan of these cases and eager to see what you'll make of it.

Goals
Help with me studying and running deep learning models Run games Have overclocking abilities  
Specs
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-20 00:54 EST-0500
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel Core i9-9900X 3.5 GHz 10-Core Processor  ($619.95 @ Adorama)
Motherboard: Asus ROG RAMPAGE VI EXTREME EATX LGA2066 Motherboard 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory  ($384.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($114.99 @ B&H) 
Storage: HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($149.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($124.99 @ B&H) 
Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($124.99 @ B&H) 
Storage: Toshiba X300 5 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($138.49 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: NVIDIA Titan Xp 12 GB Video Card 
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($204.99 @ Best Buy) 
Monitor: Alienware AW3420DW 34.1" 3440x1440 120 Hz Monitor  ($1244.99 @ Amazon) 
Mouse: Mad Catz The Authentic R.A.T 8+ Wired Optical Mouse  ($72.99 @ Newegg) 
Custom: KBD_KEEB (Purchased)
Custom: Singularity Spectre Case 
Custom: cable_mod_pro_kit_black_green 
Total: $2968.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-09 11:24 EDT-0400
 
Watercooling parts
D5 pump w/singularity  (Purchased yet to arrive) 
2x alphacool 360 rads (Purchased) 
6x deepcool-mf120s3 fans (Purchased)
EK-Velocity RGB - Nickel + Plexi (Purchased)
EK-FC GeForce GTX FE - Nickel (Purchased)
EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate - Nickel (Purchased)
Singularity 16mm acrylic tube clear (Purchased)
Mayhems Pastel V2 - UV Green 1 Ltr Premixed(Purchased)
Bitspower Multi-Transfer Base (Coupler) - Black Matte
Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Enhance Multi-Link For OD 16MM
Bitspower G1/4" Carbon Black Enhance Multi-Link For OD 16MM (6PCS)
Bitspower Carbon Black Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter For OD 16MM
Bitspower IG1/4" Extender - Black Matte Finish
Bitspower Matt Black Enhance Rotary G1/4" 90-Degree Multi-Link Adapter For OD 16MM
Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Dual Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter
Bitspower Matte Black T-Block With Triple IG1/4"
Bitspower Premium Master Hard Tube Fitting MHT16 6 Pack - Abrasive Black   
Bitspower Carbon Black Enhance 90-Degree Dual Multi-Link Adapter For OD 16MM
Bitspower Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Male to Male Thread - Black Matte Finish   
Bitspower IG1/4" Extender - Black Matte Finish
Bitspower Multi-Transfer Base (Coupler) - Black Matte
Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter
Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Adapter
Bitspower Matte Black 90-Degree With Dual Rotary G1/4" Extender
Bitspower Matte Black Mini Valve Rotary G1/4" & Inner G14" With Black Handle
Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
Bitspower G1/4" Stop Fitting with O-ring - Black Matte Finish
Overview
I'm(a colossal noob) trying to build a system that can run deep learning rig with graphic card capabilities. Since I may also overclock these parts, I thought it would better if get a chassis that would help with water-cooling.
 
The chassis(spectre 2.0) is from singularity computers(shout out to Daniel Cannon) has integrated cable management, a reservoir for cooling liquid, and a PSU compartment. The inspirations are previous builds from Jayz two cents' Beerbongs and Bentleys Custom PC Case!, Linus, and l3p spectre
 
The PSU shroud has provision for attaching a vertical GPU mount. With the mount, only a single SSD can be hooked up on the shroud. Still figuring out if I should use a bracket for the HDD.
 
Most of the parts were ordered a year ago. I was worried that TitanXP water blocks would have got decommissioned since the introduction of the RTX series. Fortunately, EKWB has compatible blocks and backplates.
 
I haven't designed the loop yet since it needs a lot more research than I expected.
 
So here's the chassis build progress. I'll update you more.

As I didn't have access to CAD, I made an initial mock-up of the custom loop using Styrofoam.
 
Re-posting my own earlier post here 
 
This wonky makeshift loop gives an okay picture of the bends and lengths of the pipes.
 
The loop order is as follows: outlet of the reservoir built into the manifold at the back -> into the graphic block -> radiator mounted on the top panel -> tube above the motherboard -> into the CPU block -> radiator mounted on to the front panel(not in the picture) -> inlet of the reservoir at the top. 
 
I wanted to keep the reservoir between the GPU and the CPU block even though I knew that the loop order doesn't make much difference in the overall temperature. The loop order with GPU ->  CPU -> top radiator and then the rest would've been an easier one. But the case would have looked empty with fewer pipes.
 

 
 
 

As I didn't have access to CAD, I made an initial mock-up of the custom loop using Styrofoam.
 
Re-posting my own earlier post here 
 
This wonky makeshift loop gives an okay picture of the bends and lengths of the pipes.
 
The loop order is as follows: outlet of the reservoir built into the manifold at the back -> into the graphic block -> radiator mounted on the top panel -> tube above the motherboard -> into the CPU block -> radiator mounted on to the front panel(not in the picture) -> inlet of the reservoir at the top. 
 
I wanted to keep the reservoir between the GPU and the CPU block even though I knew that the loop order doesn't make much difference in the overall temperature. The loop order with GPU ->  CPU -> top radiator and then the rest would've been an easier one. But the case would have looked empty with fewer pipes.
 

 
 
 

Not a lot of progress has been made since the last post due to lockdown.

However I did try to mount the fans on the panels and test them for working. Had to wire the power cables through the panel for better management. The fans are loud AF. May be it might get silent once the curves are set.

 
 

Had to laser-cut out the grills off the side and top panels of the to aide airflow into the radiator. Used M3 * 10mm screws to sandwich the panel between the fans and radiator. 

Not a lot of progress has been made since the last post due to lockdown.

However I did try to mount the fans on the panels and test them for working. Had to wire the power cables through the panel for better management. The fans are loud AF. May be it might get silent once the curves are set.

 
 

Not a lot of progress has been made since the last post due to lockdown.

However I did try to mount the fans on the panels and test them for working. Had to wire the power cables through the panel for better management. The fans are loud AF. May be it might get silent once the curves are set.

 
 

Not a lot of progress has been made since the last post due to lockdown.

However I did try to mount the fans on the panels and test them for working. Had to wire the power cables through the panel for better management. The fans are loud AF. May be it might get silent once the curves are set.

 
 

All ok, just down to you being able to pull off bending the tubes. Good luck, have fun

Also if you connect the pump to the cpu-fan header set the fan curve as flat as possible around 40-50% If you can keep it flat above 85-90c you are fine, if the bios fan control will not let you do it, you might have a very annoying pump noise under heavy load (also depends on your cpu oc, probably it can run at 70c under load unless it is a 18 core beast of cpu at 5ghz). The noise happens only then d5 rumps up to its max speed. 

While I mentioned my dislike of AI suite earlier, just thought I'd mention that when I am in Windows I do use it as it can bypass the 85 degree limit in software, but otherwise the settings I implement are the same as in BIOS.

Sounds good to me. I would indeed recommend plugging the D5 pump into the CPU_FAN header as well since the CPU_FAN header is special in that it can trigger a CPU_FAN error if it were to detect no RPM signal. A dead pump is a critical failure for a waterloop and is something you definitely want to detect and have the PC shutdown and/or not boot up if it were to occur, so by plugging the D5 into the CPU_FAN header if/when the pump the dies, you will know as the PC will be protecting itself. A dead fan on the otherhand is less consequential (since you probably have multiple) and is also much easier to see visually (assuming you have a window) if it had died.
 
This of course assumes the D5 pump has a seperate power inlet (i.e. Molex or SATA power) since I don't believe the fan header has enough amperage to fully power a D5, but to my knowledge there are no D5's out there designed to be powered by the fan header.

That is indeed correct, did not know that :)
 
 
Well I woudl say this is personal. I use the BIOS to control fan. It's fine for me, I do not have super-complex curves or other requirements.
 
I personally do not like AI suite, and in general I do not like that kind of programs that run at startup and in the background
 
Also, in addition to the reason stated by "For Science!", even with a single OS you don't have to save and recall your settings if you decide to format the computer or something similar.
 
I adjust the fan speed using a tool created by a user of the forum, it's very simple but functional and lightweight. Check it out
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1099996-openfancontrol-my-take-on-a-speedfan-replacement/
 
I monitor with HWinfo and compare speeds, cooling performance, and noise. When I am satisfied with my findings I close the software and adjust in the BIOS accordingly.
 
---
 
A note on the pump: if it's good and the loop is not super complex, the flow rate not matter that much after a certain point. From my tests I found out that most pumps works perfectly fine even at 50% or below, above that there is really little to no difference in terms of cooling performance. I have mine around those values because it's the least annoying sound-wise. I ramp it up to 100% occasionally (e.g. if I am afk and the PC is doing intensive work).
 
 
 

I frequently use Linux as a secondary OS, so control by Windows-only software is not an option for me. BIOS control is easy and applicable for all operating systems so is my preferred method. I find the control of fan speed by OS to be completely fine, and so personally do not recommend aquacomputer controllers unless you have a particular need for it that the BIOS cannot provide.

Yes W_IN or W_OUT are the right ones.
 
 
Connect one PWM connector to CPU_FAN.
Connect the other connector either to CPU_OPT or one of the CHA_FAN headers (depending on how you want to connect other chassis fans, if any...).
 
If you have space connect the second set to CHA_FAN rather than CPU_OPT, since I am not sure the latter has dedicated control in BIOS (probably is just duplicating the settings of CPU_FAN)
 
If you want to go for CHA_FAN1 and CHA_FAN2 you should configure the BIOS first to avoid the MOBO throwing the error.
If I am not wrong is under Power, Hardware Monitor Configuration, you have something like "CPU Fan Speed -> Ignore"
 
Leave H_AMP_FAN for future expansions. It's a header that can supply more power for larger fans - not needed for you since the controller is providing power for the fans.
 

Had to laser-cut out the grills off the side and top panels of the to aide airflow into the radiator. Used M3 * 10mm screws to sandwich the panel between the fans and radiator. 

Had to laser-cut out the grills off the side and top panels of the to aide airflow into the radiator. Used M3 * 10mm screws to sandwich the panel between the fans and radiator.