nightmarevoid

I think I know what's going on. at some point your fan died, either because the rotor gunked up or the stator lost one of its connections. Now that the fan isn't spinning, it's not generating the back emf that the card is tuned for. As a result, the current is surging way higher than it should and causing your fans to either stay off or pin at 100%. You'll need to either do one of those ghetto mods where you put a cpu cooler on a gpu, get an NZXT kraken to do some quick water cooling, or get a new card.

That seems to be the consensus. I guess I'm just curious about how to do it at this point. I'm running the latest version of ubuntu. I'm not actually sure about the bandwidth, but I could get a tracker going.

Latency improvement is important to me as for some reason when someone uses frostwalker on the minecraft server it causes huge latency on other services. Also I'm talking about pointing services to specific network nics, not bifurcating the pci slot.

Alright, this is pretty advanced, and I'm a Linux novice, but here goes nothing. I thought it would be nice to be able to install a multi-nic network card on my itx computer that I use for game servers and plex (not 2.5Gb on router, Couldn't afford it ). I want to do this so that I can bifurcate it and have certain services specifically use a dedicated nic and not fight each other for connection. This is very silly but I'm curious none-the-less. Does anyone have any idea on how to do this or advice? Thanks everyone!

I ended up completely uninstalling the xbox app and just downloading the games from the windows store app and playing them from the start menu like any other app. I recommend you do the same.

Thanks for the suggestion. It looks like this is a t-mobile problem and not a phone problem, so I'll call t-mobile today.

Hello all I bought my phone in December and moved my sim card to it from a huawei honor 8. The Sim card was for t-mobile for both phones. My S10e can't find its own phone number. In the sim card info it displays the phone number as "unknown". "Edit" only allows me to edit the phone's display name. This is an issue for Messages because every time my phone restarts it changes my phone number to "unknown" which causes me to be added as a recipient to group messages. It's been getting pretty irritating, and I'm worried that I'm also working up as unknown when I call people who don't have me as a contact. Is there a fix to this? Thanks in advance

That is a very good radiator position. I wish it were as simple for you as repositioning. Sorry that wasn't the answer

If the AIO gets power from the motherboard then you should be able to see what speed it's running at. I Think corsair also has a program that can manage the AIO if it connects to the motherboard in any way (sometimes via USB). It could be that the "free game" injected code some other way and reinstalling windows won't fix it. It could also be that any virus that came with that free game has already done its worst and has fried the CPU to the point of reflowing the IHS thermal interface material, or even fusing a power rail in the CPU resulting in a constant current heating up the CPU. That's a little out there though, so look at everything else first. Edit: One last thing, how is your AIO positioned? It could be that it is cavitating on an air bubble because it isn't positioned well.

Anybody have a recommendation for a free PDF editor?

I call them, "PCIe 6+2 pin connectors with a piggy-back" which is pretty long, but I think is clear.

I miss my Lumia 950 so much. The face login was awesome and the keyboard was my favorite hands-down.

I had a Galaxy GTX580 MDT. It was a card that came with a proprietary software and ports that could combine multiple displays into a single display for gaming. I believe two years after this card was released Nvidia added that functionality to its control panel.

I'm seeing the points being made here but I have a few counter points of my to make. And in case it wasn't clear, I'm talking about the standard 4pin and 3pin motherboard RGB connectors on a card, not a mish-mash of different manufacturer specific connectors that are used with hubs. For starters, there is not reason to think this would be unsightly or a cable management nightmare, no more so than any other motherboard RBG header or expansion card. Most of the time you'll be routing cables over the motherboard for front panel audio, the CPU fan, or case fans, and you could hide the thin RGB cable the same way. Secondly you could always put the card in the bottom slot as it will no doubt be 1x. This is what I do with Wi-Fi+BT cards as they always have a USB header cable. This means you could take advantage of the cases cable management holes, and you would at most have three cables coming from it anyways; a 12V rgb cable, a 5V rgb cable, and a USB cable, and only the USB would be visible for any appreciable extent (something that proprietary hubs also do). No matter what I see this as a cable management win, because the alternatives are the versions of products that use proprietary hubs for each manufacturer, and trust me those are god awful for cable management and sometimes rely on molex power. Motherboard RGB devices at least have the benefit of almost always coming with daisy-chain cables so only one cable for all devices would make its way from the back of the case to the front. As far as wasting a PCIe lane, well I can't imagine what else people are using them for these days. Almost everything except for maybe Wi-Fi is onboard now, and with multi-gpu setups being unviable these days almost all of the lanes are empty except for older machines, which is exactly what this device is for and would easily fit right in. on an mATX motherboard you could easily have a WiFi card in the top slot, a gpu in the second, and an RGB card on the bottom slot where the few cables going to it would be easily hidden.

I mean I can't be the only one who thinks it's weird that this doesn't exist. I've seen PCI/PCIe controller cards for just about everything under the sun, but I haven't found one for RGB controllers, 12V or 5V. The closest thing I've found to a generic RGB controller is these two devices: https://www.amazon.com/LEDdess-Rainbow-Controller-Remote-Control/dp/B07KY6RR88/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=PCIe+rgb+controller&qid=1598726341&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-LAMP-CFP30B-Fan-RGB-LED-Controller-PCI-Slot/dp/B07HT953CL/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=PCIe+rgb+controller&qid=1598726341&sr=8-8 Every other controller is either a proprietary USB hub or a physical switch that you need to seal inside your PC. So what's the deal with this? I would think that a small add-in card, even one that just uses a USB header, would be fairly desirable. Is it perhaps that none of the motherboard manufacturers want to license their managing software, and there's some legal wall stopping a manufacturer from making a product that would rely on free RGB software? It all just seems like a wasted opportunity to me.

I don't remember. May have been two weeks or two months, but I remember thinking I had ruined it forever lol

This was the scourge of my childhood. I never figured out what I had done until a windows update reset it for me.

I realized that after I bought the router, but It just seemed so strange. In almost any other industry "premium features" from older generations become standard in newer ones, but that hasn't been the case here. I'm certain that there are equally priced routers that have the features I mentioned. It's also strange that Netgear would add a feature like QoS but then make it a less flushed out version. I can't imagine what they've gained by doing that considering it's all programming. edit: I should also mention that I didn't look at more powerful routers because they would have been too maybe too powerful(and frankly unsightly). I live at an apartment and I figured that the longer the range of the router the more networks it would have to coexist with, and I had a suspicion that this would negatively impact everyone's performance. A bit paranoid, I know, but the solution was just buying a cheaper router so I figured why not. Perhaps this whole story is the answer to why not.

I've always preferred netegear routers, but after my old router finally died (a WNDR3800) I decided to upgrade to something newer. I went with the R6220 because I thought it had all of the features I wanted (QoS, gigabit LAN) without being overpowered for my apartment, but I was sadly mistaken. Whereas my old router easily supported QoS, 2.4/5G coexistence, and was easy to set up and log into, the new R6220 left me disappointed. Its QoS support is a joke. Where the old router let me select a connection to prioritize, this router forces me to create a separate profile per an app. I wanted to be able to tell it to prioritize my little linux machine which runs a plex server and minecraft server as well as my gaming desktop, but I can't so I'll have to just hope it doesn't hurt either of these with poor prioritization. This router also doesn't support 2.4/5G coexistence. This is one of the most basic features of all but it won't allow me to do it! I genuinely don't understand why, and it isn't listed under Netgear's features or specifications so I can't check which router I need to upgrade to to get it. Even old apple routers support it. The worst part of the router though was the setup. My old netgear was easy, letting me just plug it in and go to the infamous routerlogin.net. Even the Orbi I set up for my parents let me use router login.net/orbilogin.net and was incredibly easy. This thing though had me try to use the nighthawk app which is absolute garbage. The app never managed to find my router, meaning I had to hardwire my computer and login using the IP address, which thankfully still works. The router itself couldn't manage to find an internet connection until I factory reset it about 3 times, power cycling it and my modem multiple times. During one of these attempts the router gave me a warning that It would have to log someone else out so that I could log in from this device. I couldn't tell you what that meant as it was a new device and only my desktop was connected to it. Another time it actually did let me log in, but it required me to make a login password and security questions. The router absolutely could not remember this password though, and when it asked me to log back in it kept reporting my password was wrong. When I recovered it using the serial number it told me that the password had been the one I was typing the whole time! copy-pasting the password into the login field also didn't work. What's worse is that if you bone-headedly kept entering the wrong password, it would just let you navigate the admin menu all the same! So one more factory reset. this time I entered the basic login info for the router (you know the one) and it actually worked, was able to get through setup, connect to the modem, and set up the rest of my settings. I was disappointed by what I found, as I said earlier, but at least I was able to get internet before the work week starts, and since my apartment isn't too big I was able to get away with disabling 2.4G and just using 5G. At this point I don't know if I should just keep the router because it was a good price, or get something a little better by spending a lot more.

I feel like this has been said a million times, but now it's my turn I guess. In high school I took a game development course. It was all done in VisualBasic and there were no prerequisites. That being said, I always added my own twist to the assignments (i.e. different difficulties, easter eggs, or multiplayer), and I enjoyed it so much that I installed VB on my laptop and worked on my projects at home. I even got the teacher to make that genuine smile that is always enjoyable to see. My desire to do this was reignited when I watched Yahtzee's dev diary. I really felt like it was achievable because unlike other youtubers who flash code quickly on the screen, Yahtzee lets it stay on the screen and talks about it, and I actually understood. Somehow that really gave me a boost of confidence. How can I get started? Yahtzee brought up using game maker studio 2, but the demo is just 30 days and the version I'd like is $100 single purchase. Not crazy, but maybe too much to spend on a hunch. Also how do I decide what language to use? Do the interpreters use their own language or do they have you select something like C++ or Java, and from there where I can I find a good guide on how to use those languages? This has always been my problem with coding; classes are easy to get into but they never tell you where to go from there. Sure I know how loops and common functions work now, but I don't know how to take that info with me to another language, or how to package my code to make it useable by someone else. Learning a new syntax has always made me feel like I was learning everything from the ground up, and that's always intimidated me. If there's a class out there that can help me understand what language to use based on my desires (probably just 2D side scrollers and platformers for now) that would really go a long way for me. I really want to jump into this, but I don't know where to do it. Thank you for the help, and for reading my late-night rambling.

Okay, to address a few critiques I'd like to clear some things up for starters there is no more room for radiators because I'm vain and decided to use the phanteks evolv shift air for my case, so I can't really brute force it. I don't think the single radiator is the issue because it's much thicker than a regular radiator, and as Linus himself has pointed out longer fins don't mean you get better temps. I decided to opt for wider fins which are closer to the source rather than longer ones. I decided to use water cooling because the best cooler I could fit in my case was the OEM wraith prism, but it would spin up like a hair dryer when I performed the smallest actions no matter how I tuned the fan (in COD it would cause my desk top vibrate). People cool these chips using single radiator AIOs which use cheap aluminum radiators and mixed metal blocks all the time. I figured all of my stuff being copper put me at at least some kind of advantage. That may be hopeful, but I do still feel that it is a valid idea. To my own fault I definitely forgot to mention that I have a 15% overclock. probably the reason for jumpier temps. In truth I think my issue may be the thermal past application or the fan not being optimized for static pressure. Thicker radiators do have less dense fins, but I doubt it's enough to make a difference in this scenario. I'll replace it with a good SP fan from Noctua first and see what happens. Thanks all for the replies. I probably should have been more forward about my unique setup and its limitations.

Yes I peeled the plastic. I used the phanteks paste and I applied the amount I usually do, but maybe it wasn't enough. The mount is as tight as I could get it, and I tightened in a cross pattern.

I just built my first custom loop, but I'm having an awful time with my temps. I have a 120mm x 45mm radiator only cooling a ryzen 3700x. With my fans pinned at 100% I'm still getting 80 degrees C when playing Call of Duty Modern Warfare. At idle I'm still seeing around 50 degrees, which is where I was when I was still using the wraith cooler. I'm pretty disheartened by this. Could this be caused by a bad thermal paste application on the CPU block? the parts are: alphacool 120mm x 45mm phanteks glacier Copper/nickel block phanteks glacier 220 reservoir DDC pump running at 100% 3/8x5/8 tubing thermaltake PurePlus fans. radiator is on an intake fan

I want to test why sometimes people see over 1 second of ping on my MC server. How would I bounce a ping from my computer to outside and then back in on a certain port? Just googling This results in very basic ping commands. Directions for either windows cmd or Ubuntu linux are fine.

If you read the reviews, people DO NOT properly use these. Many of the low reviews are from real people who didn't follow the safety procedures and didn't understand the built in safety feature that causes the bulb to shut off after an hour (they all think the bulb is broken).