Kanna

10 minutes ago, Agall said:

Its a 1U server then I'm guessing to require a low profile cooler like that?

 

Unrelated, that gives me an idea for if I need to make a 1U server, use Noctua's 65mm cooler without an attached fan and build cowling to use small high velocity fans to simulate most OEM server heatsinks.

it's actually a more standardized and similar to a normal PC case, except it's a bit slimmer than an optical drive would be, so the slots for HDDs for the cases that have them it goes out to the edges, and not much extra beyond a normal PCIe back cover

22 minutes ago, Agall said:

It can be done with heavy paper or cardboard and duct tape, so it can be low effort and budget friendly. Keep in mind that this is for downdraft style coolers, tower coolers wouldn't need anything close to this sort of ducting to function properly. Its something OEM systems have done for years with plastic cowling. I imagine the low profile Noctua you're referring to is something like the U9S which is a tower cooler and not a downdraft, I have a 7950x server in a U2 chasis with one myself. Downdraft coolers in that use case would be a poor choice.

Nope it's a Noctua NH-L9i because it's the best the school had that fit, but then it cools enough even with the light workload I put on the server. If it were something I used personally I would find some cooler that is fitting the odd height limits.

1 hour ago, Agall said:

Yup, downdraft coolers like a stock cooler have their limitations. There's some DIY ducting you can do to mitigate that, like if you're able to force airflow to the fan with minimal circulation of hot air. If your case has a side intake, that would involve ducting that intake to the fan, otherwise, simply adding a circular duct might be enough to make it more likely to grab air from the front of the case and not recirculate its hot exhaust.

 

 

Something along these lines, hard to demonstrate without another angle. The goal being to force the air circulation fron an intake to the fan then prevent air exhausting below from being recirculated. The red line would be a short piece of cardboard, potentially obstructing that rear fan partially, or removing it all together and allowing the top fan to do so.

 

Wraith stealth's shroud is easily removeable, so it would be easy to pull that off and attach any DIY ducting like that and simply clip it back on.

Yeah the work needed to make these airflow effective is usually not worth it, especially with how they have their heatsink design in a way where it's just not optimal, could be more worth if it was for example a good but low profile cooler for example in a server mounted case, run a low profile noctua for my server I have in school for some various stuff

11 minutes ago, Agall said:

There's a bit of play in the mounting hardware, basically where the bolts attach to the aluminum heatsink. The tolerance on that is really loose, so it'll have a bit of play. I actually have a wraith prism and Intel stock cooler on my desk since I keep CPU boxes (and dead/retired CPUs) on my desk at work as desk ornaments, so I just verified that. I've also used the wraith prism in a few builds and there's play in the mount of it as well.

It makes sense with how stock coolers are usually made to work just good enough, doesn't have to be all that optimal, which I also guess is the case, my friends fan probably is the lower speed due to the much better conditions the PC is in with a controlled AC room and probably more airflow through the case (mine is quite terrible)

2 minutes ago, TatamiMatt said:

Even if you have $15 to spare (and live in the US) this should be a decent upgrade over stock

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-000Y-000F4?Item=9SIBFKMJJY9282

Anything is better than stock tbh, but if I actually go for upgrading I will go better directly, was mostly just seeing if anything could be done in my current situation. Also that cooler was not available in Sweden anyway (unless I use Swedish amazon)

4 minutes ago, Agall said:

The stock coolers are dead stopped and torqued with springs, so as long as they're bottomed out, there's proper and maximum torque.

that's what I thought, so bad design that it wiggles ig? still doesn't fully explain it.

5 minutes ago, Agall said:

- - snip - -

Oh I totally know I need a better cooler if I want proper cooling, I plan on buying the Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO when I got money, which also is what I use in my school build to cool a Ryzen 7 7700.

Just now, PDifolco said:

What temps do you have with fan at 800-1000rpm ? Having 50C idle / 80C load is fine

I should've clarified that it was my friends build over in school that had the low speed fan, and the computer lab is under much better cooling conditions so it's at like 36 on the 880RPM, so perhaps I make an unfair comparison.

1 minute ago, TatamiMatt said:

Might need repasted and torqued down a little harder, also check the advanced power settings and processor power management, might be able to turn the minimum down to like 5% or 1% instead of...whatever its at and the processor should be able to hit a lower floor when it needs to

The processor is set to 5% by default by the balanced power plan, and I verified it. But however, you could be right on the repasting and remounting, because it feels like the cooler can be rotated ever so slightly when you wiggle, so perhaps it's not sitting good enough. Will order some paste and try. Also setting the minimum 4% lower to 1 did not change anything so probably all comes down to mounted badly

I have a Ryzen 5 5600x that I put a AMD Wraith Prism on as I had one over from another build with a Ryzen 7 7700, but in this system with an aurous x570 elite board I experience the CPU fan is quite loud and will always be over 1500RPM even on idle, I tried tweaking some fan curves, but I experienced the temp went up a lil too much (in other words, inexperienced) I run the balanced system power plan so no always boosting here, if anyone has some tips if this is even fixable, I noticed my friend with a build using the newer CPU had like 800RPM idle. To clarify, I would upgrade the cooler if I had the money.

18 minutes ago, podkall said:

and it's like that every game? because I remember Fortnite loaded very long, but after one game it loaded bit faster

nope only Fortnite, so I think it's perhaps a Fortnite being a lot to load thing as mentioned.

52 minutes ago, podkall said:

what about Dx11?

Oh yeah I already had that on apparently, so that wasn't it,

41 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Surely this isn't a literal 15 minutes? We still use HDD here at the house, as we need the space, but I know my I've watched my son open and load Fortnite (not one I play) it runs fine on his PC. However he is launching it from a WD Gold drive (7200 RPM), which I'm betting is a making the difference.

Nope I meant literal 15 minutes, maybe like 10?

6 minutes ago, Robchil said:

well...  from an HDD.. you get 60-120 mb pr sec... read.. from an ok SSD.. you get around 550-600 mb pr sec. so mostly 10 times faster.. an nvme are at Gen3 to gen5. from 3000 to 12000 ish. mb pr sec....  so just an SSD are basicaly 10 times faster and nvme 100 times faster

yeah, so fortnite went a little faster loading with the streaming assets installed, but as said it's very much held back by my HDD in such game.

3 minutes ago, podkall said:

I think the game shouldn't load forever on an HDD, I mean I remember barely loading into before-game lobby and only loading when already in a bus, but that's because I had a Quad Core Ryzen (the game was on SSD tho)

 

But can't be CPU issue here I guess,

 

someone online suggested to try DX11 instead of DX12 if you're on DX12,

 

though it's no wonder if it's the HDD's fault, PCs use 7200RPM drives usually, 5400RPM mostly used by Laptops, but let's see if others can think of something before complete reinstall

4 minutes ago, Robchil said:

due to massive files loading to start modern games and programs it will take ages to load from HDD's... 

i would only use it for storage... and anything launching ... games and programs from nvme/ssd's

 

Yeah I figured the HDD would be a bottleneck, I got this years ago to store most of my games, which has worked fine, it was only now when I recently tried fortnite which has advanced a lot since I last played on my PC. But I am giving DX11 a try because I think I had DX12, and also I'm installing the streamed textures, perhaps might not help with loading, but it's something

I have recently wanted to try some more Fortnite on my PC as I upgraded to a RTX 4060, but whenever I press launch it launches like normal, but it takes like 15 minutes to start, and most likely give me an error to relaunch the game (and also verify it in the same process), yet no fix. I noticed my HDD which is 5400 RPM only is 100% used when loading in which would just mean it's trying it's best, but still it's an HDD. Just wondering if there is any troubleshooting steps I could take that could possibly fix this, do I have to use an SSD for the game perhaps? is my HDD dying (despite not really showing signs in other games) or just a plain and simple reinstallation overnight? Give your opinions and tips

9 hours ago, signupwith said:

MSI & Gigabyte are absolutely fine for their GPU, but I'd recommend to get 3 fans GPU to keep those temperatures low

I feel like 3 fan isn't needed if a card just has good cooling. 

15 hours ago, alyen said:

If you have gaming results similar to the Heaven Benchmark then I wouldn't really worry about it. I think Techpowerup just does quick ADA tests or something for heavier GPU stress testing is what they based all of the video cards on. The data they provide can be useful for other purposes besides gaming.

That makes sense, but in this case I might actually look if I can go for the ASUS GeForce RTX 4060 8GB Dual OC as it's not much more money and even on their tests seem to get a neat temp and noise, but still haven't really tested my card if it is alright.

11 hours ago, Side said:

Download GPUZ and check if everything is fine. If yes then why worry. Gigabyte is a good and reliable brand. 

I mean everything looks fine, didn't expect anything to look different there, it's a regular card after all.

I just got my hands on a Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4060 WindForce OC to replace my GTX 1060 3GB, I have noticed a very good performance for the few games I have tried so far, but reading the techpowerup review they get some crazy values that seems not right for what I have on mine, I'm just wondering if anyone else has some experience on this card if it's actually fine and their review has some bad numbers or if it's something that will eventually happen to me soon. 

I do have to add that I ran a Heaven Benchmark on extreme 1080p and I would say I did not reach such temps really, or noise unless I'm very bad at telling, to me this seems fine and performs okay, sure the plastic is a little hot if I open my side panel, but so is any GPU lol.

1 hour ago, podkall said:

I think some of them could be playable on Low (with your current GPU), I had 1050 GTX and it surprised me how many games it could run, even if they had to be dialed down to Low graphics, I was even more limited on CPU than GPU before, making for example Battle Royale games unplayable

Oh I for sure can run games on low, but I don't want to run on low. Which is why I'm upgrading lol

7 minutes ago, podkall said:

you can check Epic Games or Steam library if you have such games you'd want to try

Yeah I own a lot of games through steam and epic, but ofc have been limited due to my GPU 

5 minutes ago, --SID-- said:

The one 650w PSU isn't the like the other. There are really bad 650w PSUs that can't run a 3060 but the Focus GX is fine.

Yeah I don’t regret buying a focus gx as they have really good quality.

13 minutes ago, podkall said:

@Kanna what's your AMD equivalent for your budget? also what about used market or do you require brand new GPU?

Well the RX 6700 XT is priced like $20 higher on a sale if I go to the store, as for the used market I live quite in a bad spot so market is quite inactive here, usually get old GPUs for sale that are before RTX series at a price which is often only like $180 less than my two options in the OP.

15 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

For FPS games you don't need any NVidia stuff (avoid DLSS in those games to shoot the target and not the ghost IA pixel, and RT out of question on these low tier cards), get ab AMD card, 6700XT or 6750XT

Do you think the AMD card would do sufficient in recording stuff while playing games while delivering good performance to make it worth the small price increase. As for the NVIDIA feats I didn’t really plan on using DLSS and similar tbh and ray tracing isn’t really a focus either. But I took a look at some benchmarks also and I don’t really think I will be all that limited by the 8GB VRAM if I were to go with the 4060 for the games I play / plan to play.

23 minutes ago, podkall said:

I guess it depends really on the planned games you want to play.

It’s a though question for me to answer really. Because I don’t play much more than the 3 same games on my PC due to me knowing I can’t really play much more / I can play it on my series x for example. 

1 minute ago, --SID-- said:

What's the brand and model of the PSU?

It’s a seasonic focus gx 650W 80+ gold, so I didn’t include it as both these GPUs were within that range.

3 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

Drivers are alot better now, only issue is: you don't get NVENC, maybe check out some benchmarks of how well the cards stream.

Oh right the nvidia encoder, yeah perhaps I should look into some of that, but hopefully it’s not horrible, but might be simpler going green side too if I know it will work as I expect.

1 minute ago, podkall said:

What do you mean by planning to run for at least 1 year more?

 

As for GPU, it depends what you do on your PC, what games you play, are you story game enthusiast that enjoys maxed out settings but doesn't need lot of fps, or Warzone gamer that would like a balance between lot of fps and good graphics for clarity.

 

Also as others noticed, AMD cards aren't terrible, do you require Nvidia GPU for one of their features? CUDA, Nvenc, RT cores?

Well I’m mostly thinking I would run 1080p for at least 1 more year and perhaps upgrade to 1440p after that as it’s a neat middle resolution. I’m mostly playing competitive games I would say, mostly because I have my xbox series x if I really want performance, but this has of course led to many of my store games where graphics is to prefer on. PC have been left unplayed, I can’t really be more specific about which games other than like overwatch and CS2 which aren’t too heavy games, just mostly want something that would fair well over most games with like okay graphics and 60 fps. I’m not really locked behind any features, I do like my GeForce shadowplay, but there is always alternatives to that.

6 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

What country? What prices?

Are you not considering AMD cards? they offer far better performance for the price atm (FSR is almost as good as DLSS and the raytracing performance isn't much worse)

If US: a RX6700XT would cost $300 and be an easily better card than the 4060 or 3060.

I’m in Sweden, and AMD cards Isn’t all that out of my area of interest, but I do rely a bit on NVIDIA Shadowplay, but alternatives exist, and also have their drivers been improving lately or is there still a risk of a larger instability?

3 minutes ago, ImWilly said:

If the choice must be between RTX 3060 12GB or RTX 4060 8GB, I would take RTX 3060 12GB

Since it has more VRAM, and similar performance to 4060 counterpart

 

RTX 4060 does have features such as DLSS 3.0 or Frame Gen, but it's not significant bump because of minimalistic AI core, so I would choose the one with more VRAM

Yeah when I compared these’s performance was quite similar, but the extra VRAM I have noticed is getting a little better to have nowadays.

Hello, I’m thinking about finally retiring my GTX 1060 3GB from my PC with a ryzen 5 5600x and 32GB RAM, but of course I need a new GPU, but I have gotten tied between 2 GPUs that are in the same price range, but different generations. And I’m talking about a Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4060 8GB vs a Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3060 12GB. From what I’ve gathered these are great 1080p cards which is what I plan to run for at least 1 year more, and currently I don’t really run stuff over 144fps, I’m just not sure what to aim for, actual speed or a larger video memory for games that require it, give some input.