Nozyspy

Rail isn't really the right term, it's more like a connector current limit on/off switch.  If you're exceeding 40A on a connector then something has gone wrong.

The HX uses virtual multi rail. Unlike true multi rail power supplies which may have multiple connectors on each rail, with the HX each connector has it's own 40A limit when in multi rail mode. Basically means each connector acts like its own rail. Because of that it doesn't matter which "rail" you plug in to as they're all independent. 
Though, if it was a true multi rail unit you are right that you would want to spread the cables out over different rails if possible.
 
You nailed it. Multi rail mode enables that 40A current limit per connector. You shouldn't be drawing >480w through a single cable so you may as well leave multi rail on. 
 
It doesn't matter.

Simply make a Windows 11 install USB using the official tool and use the key that came with your 10 to activate it. 

You already replied, you could have used less words and simply said 'yes' or 'no'.
 
 
 
 
EDIT: NVM sorry, i forgot that my question was already answered a few pages before by someone being more helpful. 👍 Looks like its gonna be a Corsair HX1000 for me i guess.

So for Christmas I received, yes I requested this, 4 120mm grey Noctua 1700RPM case fans. Was expecting a mild improvement in cooling performance.
 
Prior to this my poor 5800x with a Noctua U12 cooler was cruising at about 40-50c idle and capping out at around 70 under load. With the addition of 4 of these fans (replacing the stock fans in an NZXT H510) 2 intake 2 exhaust. My idle is now ambient and under load has shown a delta T of around about 20c.
 
And GPU is still loudest thing in case. Don't know if anyone cares but hey I'm very happy and surprised at the amount of improvement.

AX/AX-i series are supposed to be high-end 80+ Titanium. But while AX-i is indeed good albeit very expensive, AX ended up being worse than HX aside for efficiency because Seasonic couldn't or didn't want to customize their platform for Corsair demands, so it's just stock Prime TX. But it's now discontinued anyway so it doesn't matter.
HX/HX-i is 80+ Platinum. The only difference is iCUE / monitoring capability. And this series is not only practically the best of Corsair current offerings (disregarding 500$ AX1600i) but ones of the best PSUs overall.
RM/RM-x/RM-i are 80+ Gold fully-modular. RM has cheaper capacitors and no in-cable caps, both fine, especially if it's cheaper than RM-x. RM-i has iCUE.
TX-m are 80+ Gold semi-modular. Old, 2017' version was a bit loud, new 2021' version is fine.
CX/CX-m/CX-F series are the real mess tho. CX is better than CX-m electrically aside for modularity. And Corsair for some reason decided to make CX-F RGB which didn't sell, so they've discontinued it now. CX is apparently discontinued too.
CV is another weird series, sub 650W are group regulated, kinda refreshed / slightly improved version of VS, i.e not something you really should use with builds using a dedicated GPU. But 650/750W versions are better, kinda like CX-m but non-modular.
 
Then there are also different revisions of CX-m, TX-m, RM and RM-x but they're overall close to each other performance/quality wise so it doesn't really matter much.
 
Anyway, in most cases you look either for CV 650W, CX-F (while still available), TX-m, RM, RM-x or HX.
 
PS: Also, apparently there's also CS refresh coming, unless they rename it to something else.
Kinda, yes.

I have notice over the past several month users have been searching for updated drivers for the Alphacool LCD-Display 240x128, but sadly its not available anymore and anywhere. The only one that is available is the 1.0.3 which is very restricted. luckily I manage to get a copy a year ago and recently found it on my home cloud storage. I have attached all that is needed to get the Alphacool LCD-Display 240x128 up and running and pre-designed pages. 
alphaLCD_1.0.4.48_beta.zip

The Fuma 2 isn't far behind and should completely clear the ram slots: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/YsHRsY/scythe-fuma-2-5117-cfm-cpu-cooler-scfm-2000

NH-D15S will still overhang the RAM slots on most boards if it is installed to exhaust to the top with the short side facing the RAM. Go with the NH-U12A if you want to stay clear of the RAM completely. Performance is similar.

Yeah I mean it's just that they're not always guaranteed to work, but I've never had any problems myself with XMP personally.

Not exactly... JEDEC defines the official DDR4 speeds and timings, and they do go up to 3200 speeds. However, the lowest CL defined at 3200 is 20! Most enthusiast kits run around CL16 at that speed, or even lower if you throw more money at it. These are not standard profiles and go via XMP, and thus are arguably overclocks. I've long wondered why enthusiast ram manufacturers don't program in a SPD profile at JEDEC 3200 timings (or whatever is fastest the ram supports). At least you get the speed, if not the timings if you forget to turn on XMP.
 
I don't know how AMD define memory overclocks, if 3200 lower latency ram would be counted as an OC, as opposed to JEDEC timings.
 
This is the main reason people aim for faster ram, moreso than the memory bandwidth in itself. IMO with the ever increasing core counts, there isn't anywhere near enough for more demanding uses, but for casual or lightweight uses (gaming, Cinebench) it doesn't matter. 3600 is the fastest speed safely support without going into async mode and the potential performance penalty from that. I believe there has been tests that running async, people with slower ram can still run high IF speeds and gain performance that way, but didn't look in detail which scenarios that may apply to.
 
Similar problems to AMD here, more cores, more ram bandwidth can be useful. For casual uses I'd aim at 3000 minimum since you don't really save going any slower. It isn't as useful to go faster, but it still helps. 
 
Oh, on both Intel and AMD, you can run into various ram compatibility problems, especially past 3200 or so. It varies with mobo, bios, and how the modules are programmed.

the minimum recommend specs for intel is 2666, and zen 2 is 3200, zen 2's sweet spot is 3600 while intel can go as fast as the motherboard tolerates.
 
if your mobo has 4 ram slots the optimal setup is 4x8gb with low CL, and make sure you optimize the timings.
 
For intel, the difference between 2600 and 3200 is about 5%, 3200 to 4000 is about 3%.
For zen 2 is probably a 10% diff from 2600 to 3200 and 3%~ from 3200 to 3600 under heavy loads.
 
For minmaxing it's probably 4 sticks of ddr 3600 with a x570 taichi, or ddr4000 with a z390 gene/dark