will0hlep

looks to me like my advise is a bit out of date, that said, looking through I'd still take the 1080Ti if the OP is playing triple A titles, as there are plenty of games using more than 8GB vram at max settings even at 1080p.

"it crashes" or "it instantly shuts off"... I assume you meant the latter, but if it is the former I'd suspect a software issue.
 
Well, look you could go out and get a 1500W PSU to guarantee that in every case you'll never need to upgrade again... but that isn't sensiable. Given the kind of hardware you are buying, you won't need more than a 850W to get by for the lifetime of a PSU (a good 650 or 750 would run your current machine imo).

The pc instantly turns off, probably tripping over current, i guess thats why they call furmark a power virus. In even very demanding games theres no issues.

You could get a used 1080 Ti for this money which would be a much better card and net you an extra 3GB of Vram.

Okay, so the issues...
 
1) You've given no budget, usecase or location. We need to know these things to advise you any sense.
2) There is no motherboard listed here, so no way to tell if it all really fits together any sense.
3) A 550W PSU is very limiting
4) You likely want to consider all your parts at the same time to get the best deal.

Agreed with @TatamiMatt. If you're building a PC for gaming, of course, you GPU should be your primary consideration - if not though, then considering it later is ok. What is your primary use case for the computer?
 

Do you mean the 12600K or 12400F? The 12400K doesnt exist
 
Id get a thermalright phantom spirit instead of the AG400, pretty much the same price for a lot better performance
 
The KC3000 is a sort of expensive SSD, you could get a much cheaper one and not notice much of any difference in speed
 
The PSU isnt the best, check here and id go for BTier or above
 
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

Okay, so the issues...
 
1) You've given no budget, usecase or location. We need to know these things to advise you any sense.
2) There is no motherboard listed here, so no way to tell if it all really fits together any sense.
3) A 550W PSU is very limiting
4) You likely want to consider all your parts at the same time to get the best deal.

Honestly I've tried that but I've always only ever received ones without these holes. The only holes on the back were the ones where the bar screws are placed in.
Maybe I'll give Amazon France or Italy a go.
 
As an example 
See how the back side of this power bar has screw holes but also water drop/keyhole shaped holes? That's so you can press a screw in the opening and slide it into the smaller opening so your bar can hang off the wall without having the screw the bar into the wall itself. The example used here is of a non EU power bar btw. 

Hope that clarifies it because I had a hard time understanding the MCM power bar keys at first.
 
From what I've seen with these types is that you permanently mount it to the wall instead of slide and latch style mounts.
 

You can connect cards in there that use a larger interface than PCIe x1, like HBA cards or high speed network cards.
For example, I need the second x16 slot in my folding rig to hook up a second GPU once the new PSU arrives.

Adding other PCIe cards that do something else and are 16x length 🙂
 

Awesome! The RM850e is a very decent PSU 🙂
You can use the included 12vhpwr if you want, it will look a little bit cleaner.

An 850W PSU would be sufficent for a 4070ti super, but depending on your other components you might not even need that.
 
Also, you don't need the PSU to have a 12vhpwr adapter, as GPUs currently come with PCIe6+2 to 12vhpwr adapters.
 
If you CPU is a 5600 or similar I expect you could get away with a good 800W, maybe even a 750W.

285W card at peak so it doesn't matter if they have a 14900ks, a good 850W is fine. 

The RTX 4070Ti has a max power draw of 285w so it can't draw 600w.
You dont actually need the 12vhpwr connector as the 4070Ti comes with an adapter to fit older PSU's.-
Its a 12pin that goes into the GPU and 2x8pins that goes into normal PCIE power cables.
1000w is very overkill for the 4070Ti. I run a highly overclocked RTX 4080 on my RM750w without any issues.

This is a friendly reminder that this $1.00 bundle ends in 4 days, it started a couple weeks ago and I actually overlooked its pickup potential.
 
Red Faction is just $0.33 right now on Humble. 86% Very Positive reviews on Steam.

 
Red Faction II is just $0.33 right now on Humble. 53% Mixed reviews on Steam.

 
Saints Row 2 is just $0.33 right now on Humble. 75% Mostly Positive reviews on Steam.

 
All 3 games were created by Volition, a developer headquartered in Champaign, Illinois.

If you're wondering why this would be posted here instead of on Floatplane... Say in the FAQ section...
 
That's because Google Play Console is convinced that https://www.floatplane.com/support doesn't even exist and is trying to take our app off the app store because of it!

Very fun. Hopefully this works!
 
Bye!

Permanently delete your account
 
Delete your account by:
visiting https://www.floatplane.com/settings/account. Scroll down to the bottom to where you see "Account Deletion" Click the "Delete Account" button Enter your password  
If you are having any issues with this process please feel free to contact support@floatplane.com and they'd be happy to help you out!

If your NAS and PC are relatively close to each other, a DAC (Direct Attached Copper) cable may be more cost-effective. (10GBASE-T copper SFPs are still expensive for some stupid reason.)
 
Remember if you go for fiber, you can't mix single-mode and multimore. The SFPs and fiber you choose all have to match the same standard.
 
Look into Intel NICs that have native copper 10GBASE-T ports, they'll cost a little more than old Mellanox cards but they'll be cheaper than Mellanox cards and 10GBASE-T SFPs.

ConnectX3's work fine in TrueNAS. I have one and its working fine. But it will not work on Win 11... which is waht drove me down the rabbit hole. It will work on Win 10 though, and youd imagine drivers on Win 10 would work - they won't, trust me, there is a lot of googling you can do, but just don't waste the time.
 
What you want to do, which is the most affordable option, is get 2 Intel X520-DA2 cards. The ConnectX's will work fine with truenas, but IMO since you are buying 2 from the start, just get two that match. I got 1 for my windows PC once I upgraded to Win 11 and the old connectX didn't work anymore, it came with the needed fiber transceiver, and I run a 10 gb link with fiber between them. 
 
Buy 2x of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/166675754998?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tG85ngMXR2e&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=B1xTkXm_Qfe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
Should come with 1 fiber transciever in each according to the image (the one I bought over a year ago came with one). Then you just need some fiber which is shockingly cheap. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7622
 
And that should be that... The one thing to make sure of is you will need to set up that subnet in both truenas and on the NIC in windows, share your SMB shares over that subnet in truenas, and then in windows remove all old network shares to that NAS and reset them up on the new point to point subnet. That way all traffic will actually flow over that link and not go out over your normal ethernet. Works like a charm!

For DDR5 speed you want atleast 5600Mhz, but 6000Mhz is usually considered the recommend. For DDR5 Latency you want atmost CL40, but CL36 is usually considered the recommend. Past 6400Mhz CL32 there is very little extra performance to be gained in gaming. This advice is subject to change though.
 
IMO case airflow dosn't typically need as much thought as people think. So long as the case has a mesh front panel (or some other large obvious intake) it will usually be fine.

? 
 
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

well, look what im saying is that "generally" its better to not be cpu bottlenecked because its just a horrible experience. that there are circumstances where its acceptable doesn't really change that. its fine if you disagree but I'll keep avoiding running into a cpu bottleneck (because i already know how shitty it is) and will advocate for the same, simply because it's "generally" more preferable to not max out a cpu, especially while gaming and a maxed out gpu is just the norm in most cases (typically it means your cpu can keep up which is good)
 

The issue with the 3060 (and the 4060 Ti 16GB) is that for raytracing it just dosn't have the performance required to raytrace well in many modern titles even at 1080p.
 
According to benchamrks, the 4060Ti 16GB fails to achieve 1% lows of 60fps with raytracing turned on (1080p, DLSS and frame gen, so absolute best case) in games like Cyberpunk, Spider-Man MM, Hogwarts Legacy and Hitman 3. This means that you'll find frequent and highly noticable hitching.
 
If you want to play these titles and newer triple A games and you can strech your budget to a 4070, 4070 Super or RX7800XT then (imo) you really should.

(If you were not looking to raytrace or play on max settings the above wouldn't apply, but then you should consider a 7600XT or 7700XT)