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Bouche4Dag

Member
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Bouche4Dag

  • Birthday March 19

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/id/bouchedag
  • Twitch.tv
    bouche4dag
  • Twitter
    @Bouche4dag

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Netherlands

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 8700k
  • Motherboard
    Biostar Z370GT6
  • RAM
    2x16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX @2933MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1070 8GB FTW Edition
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R4
  • Storage
    1x 960GB Corsair MP510 NVME SSD - 2x 1TB WD Caviar Black
  • PSU
    Corsair RM 650x
  • Display(s)
    Dell UH2515H 1440p + 1x generic 1080p
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 + 4 Corsair ML140 fans
  • Keyboard
    Leopold FC750R
  • Mouse
    Zowie ZA11
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD558
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 N
  1. Hey, thanks for reading my question about overclocking on this rarer motherboard TLDR: Default XMP profile on my motherboard doesn't work. Need a good in-depth Memory overclocking guide to set all the timings/parameters correctly to run above 2933MHz I just upgraded from Corsair Vengeance 16GB to 32GB of RAM (CMK32GX4M2D3600C18) but unfortunately when I enable the only XMP profile in my BIOS my computer does not post. I haven't touched memory overclocking before so it is all a giant guess game in the number department for me (I know the basics of higher/lower being better for some parameters, but not all) I tried setting both the XMP 1 profile and a custom profile at 3600MHz with 1.375, 1.4, 1.425 and 1.45 Voltage for the memory but none of them post. Currently I've got my memory set to 2933 MHz at 1.375 Volt and it seems to be stable for the past hour. Attached are pictures of my BIOS' memory settings. The first (203344) is the memory information tab; this is the information of what XMP profile my motherboard seems to use with it's XMP profile. The second (203843) is my current speed settings. The third (203852) is the timings; there's a lot of them and I don't know what I should be setting for these. The fourth (203901) is the voltage configuration And the last image is the information of my memory on the Corsair website (CMK32GX4M2D3600C18) Now I would like to run my memory near what it is rated for; 3600 MHz with 15-15-15-36 timings. I don't know which of the timings I should be changing though, it's a big list and I can't find what all of them do. I did notice other people have issues with memory overclocking on this motherboard. It may just not go any faster. All help is appreciated, thank you in advance. If anyone has a good, in-depth overclocking guide, that covers all these parameters that would also be welcome.
  2. This is a PSU chart from a couple years ago; it will give you a good idea of what PSU you should be buying. For your budget I would suggest two things: Go with a reputable brand and go with a Gold or better 80 PLUS rating. Hopefully someone has a more up-to-date version which we can spread around
  3. Apple recently sent a document to their Authorized Service Providers regarding the use of new proprietary software tools. These tools have to be used when repairing "key parts" of iMacs and MacBooks or the system will become "inoperative" because of an "incomplete repair". Looks like another saga in the iMac story. Apple's taking an even tighter grip on their product's repairing. I found: https://www.theverge.com/2018/10/4/17938820/apple-macbook-pro-imac-pro-third-party-repair-lock-out-software But OP is: https://www.macrumors.com/2018/10/04/t2-macs-must-pass-diagnostics-for-certain-repairs/ Also found: https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/yw9qk7/macbook-pro-software-locks-prevent-independent-repair and of course there are/will be others.
  4. Really missing a graph like the one at 3:30 with the names of the coolers you tested in them. Other than that, interesting video
  5. I've got an R9 280x right now and running 1440p is do-able, but not fantastic. It's also running hotter and hotter as the card becomes older and my particular model doesn't run well on the 16.x drivers, so it's time for an upgrade. The RX 480 is the card best suited for my price range and I already wanted to buy one, but if I can win one.... Well, I could spend some money on watercooling it instead!
  6. Rig is in my signature. This was my result:
  7. For every single person working at LTT: What do YOU want to accomplish in/with LTT this year? (2016) When's the #Firepole coming?
  8. Scrapyard Wars 3 was awesome. The budget, the places (people going to different cities and shops), the contenders/hosts it was all awesome. The one critique I have is this: I would have loved if the buying, building and benchmarking was done in 5 episodes instead of 7. Then it would be great have an "extra"/"bonus"/sixth episode where they just sit at a table and talk about the wars. (like in the end of the actual seventh episode, but longer and it being "extra") Can't wait for the next season.
  9. A very popular Wrestling VOD website has this in their player as well. It's IDEAL for sports. There's probably plenty of situations in Youtube videos I'd like to skip back 10 seconds so this is pretty neat. This is what he's talking about: (That's SHIFT + /)
  10. Good video. A nice K|NGP|N card as always; very pricey though I'd like to suggest one thing though: Graphs where 'lower is better', i.e. the temperature graphs, should have the lowest value at the top so the graphs always have the "best" thing at the top. This makes it much easier to read/look at as a viewer. Keep up the good work!
  11. Uploading went very slow, they should be there now.
  12. Hello everyone, About an hour ago I started to clean my keyboard. I made a keypuller out of a paperclip and proceeded to pull the keycaps of my 2012 razer blackwidow. As I got around to the 'r' key I accidentally pulled the "stem" out of the switch. The "stem" was stuck to the keycap and the spring flung out of the switch. I then carefully removed the stem from the keycap and I knew I was f*cked. I tried simply putting the spring and stem back in but that didn't work1 so I looked up videos of people removing switches from keyboards. The 2012 razer blackwidow has platemounted switches and I found multiple videos of people pulling those out so I tried doing that. However, the little hooks that keep the keys in place isn't there on my keyboard. I can't figure out how to get the switch (-top) of the keyboard. I don't want to mess around soldering anything unless there's no other option... Here are a couple of images of my issue: http://imgur.com/a/085MT And for people that don't want to go to imgur: If anyone can tell/show me how to remove this switch I might be able to replace it with a new one and that'd save me from having to buy a whole new keyboard when there's only one key broken. Sincerely, Bouche Dag. 1: The spring worked but there was no "click"-y noise nor did the key give an input signal.
  13. This thread got really long, rude and well, just very long. @InfinityCaptain did you fix your issue?
  14. You might not have SupremeFX installed or it might not recognize the "new" drivers. If you have it installed, uninstall it, download it from the Asus website and install it. If you don't have it installed just download it and install it.
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