Fat Eric

Thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for. After a bit of back and forth I finally managed to move the partition over to the larger drive.

Yes, that's correct. I'm right-clicking and "Expand" is greyed out. Heh! I appreciate the sentiment, but I've done my fair share of Windows-installations throughout the years. It's just that I find re-installing Windows over and over again is a huge PITA when all I want to do is move the set of files over to a new drive. I suppose I'm just impatient to get things done.. Thanks! I'll check it out and see if this it makes things go a bit smoother.

Yo, I've got an old system that's using a 60gb SSD as main/Windows drive, and now there's like 2 gigs left of storage on the thing. Not good. So my plan was to transplant the system onto a larger drive, hoping it would give me more room for the system to work with. Ideally I don't want to be re-installing Windows as I don't remember how I got the OS onto the machine in the first place. What I've tried so far: Cloning the drive using Macrium Reflect onto a larger SSD. This created, well, a clone, so you could say it worked? But now I've got three partitions, two of which are the same as on the old drive, plus some 160gigs of unallocated space. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Noodling around in Disk manager or whatever it's called, to try to merge the partitions in some way. Haven't been successful so far. So yeah, what do I do? Am I looking at having to boot into recovery mode and mess around in there, or is there any software I've missed out on?

Let's see.. mainly variants of Radeon RX 6500 and GeForce GTX 1650.

Thanks, guess I'll hold on to it then! I have been thinking about perhaps watercooling the GPU only, though, mostly because, well, watercooling. At one point I even got an EK full cover copper block, too, together with second hand radiators and things. All I'm missing is a reservoir, tubes and fitting, but again, I'm asking myself – is it really worth it? What I want, basically, is for the computer to be as silent as possible while still allowing OK temps, and hey, if there's room for overclocking that wouldn't be too bad either.

Hi guys, Just looking for some input on wether or not it's actually worth it to upgrade my GPU. I got a Gigabyte 980ti in 2016 and have been very happy with it since then. Since I don't play a lot of games I tend to fall behind on "the game front", so the things I play are usually a few years old when I buy them on some Steam sale. Other than that I sometimes use it for rendering things out in After Effects or edit some video. The reason I'm asking is that I'm seeing that there's reasonably priced ($2-300) GPUs on the market, but I'm not sure wether or not it's really worth it given that I'm pleased with what I've got. I mean, will investing in a new card significantly future-proof my computer or something? Other than that, the only reason I can think of is "upgrading because the current one is old", which all in all isn't really a valid one in my book. Still, even though I'm basically answering my own question here I can't really shake the feeling that it's about time to upgrade solely because it's been a few years since last time. Any inputs and thoughts are very welcome.

Ack. You live as you learn I guess… Keeping my fingers crossed! Glad that it at least wasn't a computer I paid anything for. Guess I'll be scouring Youtube tonight looking for tutorials on how to figure out which voltages and values I'll be looking for.

Hello! I'm working on restoring an old 486-based machine and have been running into some issues. Maybe someone here can chime in. So the computer is an AT&T Globalyst 515. It's sporting an Intel Overdrive 83MHz Socket 3 CPU, and the motherboard model is apparently a rather nondescript "E77755". I kept getting an error message saying "Press F1 to enter setup", and my initial googling suggested that I'd better replace the CMOS battery. Fair enough, that's a quick fix. Still, I kept getting the message after replacing the battery, which lead me to start disconnecting things like harddrive, floppy drive and all other peripherals I could find. Nothing much changed after this. I managed to source the schematics of the board, and noticed that the onboard switch (SW1) makes it possible for the user to enable or disable onboard VGA. From what I can recall it was enabled already, but I thought it couldn't hurt to fiddle around with the different options to see if it made a difference. When even this didn't produce a desirable result I thought I'd try to clear CMOS in order to "start anew". Now here's when it gets interesting. Little old me thought it was just a matter of moving the jumper, boot, turn the machine off and re-seat the jumper again. When I booted with the jumper set to clear CMOS the machine beeped four times. After moving the jumper back again there was still no image, and I'm starting to have the creeping suspicion that I might've botched the board in some way because of this. That said, the system seems to boot just fine afterwards. Meaning, the CPU fan spins up and I can hear the HDD working. I even get the regular ol' beep that I presume is the same I got when I first got the "Press F1 to enter setup"-prompt. But alas, no picture. Nothing. I even tried replacing the LCD with an older CRT, but it makes sense that this shouldn't matter. So my big question now is – Did I kill the motherboard? To me it doesn't seem like it, but given that I can't get anything out of the VGA port I can't help but fear the worst. My biggest assumption per now is that clearing the CMOS has caused the onboard VGA to be disabled, so I should definitely see if I can find a VGA ISA card and double check if I can get a picture from that one. But again, like I said, I'm also worried that booting with the jumper in the "wrong" place has somehow shorted some of the circuits. So what's your verdict? Should I throw the board in the thrash and stop wasting my time, or is there hope? Thoughts and prayers.

Nice! I'm looking for PWM fans as they otherwise tend to spin up to max speed regardless of how I try to tune them in BIOS or Windows. I'm also really curious to see how my component placement will end up.. I'm fearing already now that it'll be a really tight fit..

I did actually today buy a used EK Supermacy MX, two 240 mm radiators, a GTX 980 reference card with attached full cover EK block, some fittings and some pieces of tube for roughly $170. I've also ordered an EVO copper base for the CPU block plus various bits and bobs (screws, backplate etc.) from EK for roughly $50. So grand total now is right past $280. I've done some rough math on what all the parts would've cost me brand new, and from what I can tell I'm looking at over $400 saved so far. All in all I'm happy. That said, I still need fittings, pump, reservoir, tubing and fans. The older fans I've got lying around are all used, several of them have a noticeable squeak to them when in use.

Alright, that's noted! I got my replacement backplate and terminal from EK today, and I'm glad to say it cost me a mere $24! So far I've spent around $50 for the one block in total, and even though there's probably more reasonable ways to get hold of the parts cheaper, for now this will suffice. Did you get your generic fittings yet? I've been considering and looking for Barrow fittings so far, as they're somewhat available around the web. Guess I'll have to take a look around for Bykski as well just to be sure. I'm thinking I'll mainly be buying straight fittings, no reason to gamble on angled ones. Also I don't think I'll be super adventurous when it comes to choosing a CPU-block.. there's some parts I'm more comfortable buying for the absolute lowest price, and so far blocks aren't really one of them (I can't afford to take too many risks, either)..

Trust me, it's not. I went through several q-tips with green residue on them. Regardless, by now I'm fortunately not worried that the small amounts of old fluid will cause an issue. 5k only on the loop? Sheesh! Maybe in my next life when I'm reborn as an oligarch. ? How do you figure out what companies produce parts for the different companies? I don't mind not paying extra simply for having the official logo on the parts, as long as they're decent quality and don't leak. Noted! Guess I'll just have to ask the sellers how old the radiator is and what fluid they used etc.

Trust me, it's not. I went through several q-tips with green residue on them. Regardless, by now I'm fortunately not worried that the small amounts of old fluid will cause an issue.

Thanks! So no need to get a Mayhem Blitz kit? Or is this only a reasonable product to use in case the previous owner used nanofluid for years and years? Neat! Some really good tips there, thanks. Would it make sense to buy things like radiators cheap from Ebay, you think?

Well, I guess that's a good sign! I guess I'm being overly precautious. Do you have any experience in "normalizing" the pH in your loop?